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Tie Rod Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Tie Rod Replacement

Jared Fenton

Time:

4 hours4 hrs

Tab:

$100 to $200

Talent:

****

Tools:

10mm/21mm/36mm wrenches T40 Torx driver, torque wrench, pliers, wire cutters, tie rod ball joint tool, dead blow hammer, penetrant spray, clamping pliers

Applicable Models:

Porsche 955 Cayenne (2004-08)
Porsche 955 Cayenne GTS (2008)
Porsche 955 Cayenne S (2003-08)
Porsche 955 Cayenne Turbo (2003-08)
Porsche 955 Cayenne Turbo S (2006)

Parts Required:

Tie rods

Hot Tip:

Take your time and follow the directions closely

Performance Gain:

Better handling

Complementary Modification:

Replace front sway bar bushings

It is very important to keep the front suspension of the Cayenne tight and firm. The system's moving parts have a tendency to wear out and become loose as the mileage on the car increases. If the steering wheel on your Porsche can be turned a few degrees in each direction without impacting the wheels' direction, this can indicate that one or more suspension components have worn beyond their useful life.

The most common wear item in the steering system is the tie rod end. This is a spherical joint that is located on the end of each tie rod and controls the position of each front wheel when the car is steered. There is also a large ball joint at the other end of the rod where it connects to the steering rack. Over time, the clearances inside these joints increase due to wear, eventually making precise steering control impossible. Additionally, the car may have a slight wobble under speed and braking and cause vibrations. Many times, a new set of tie rods can make a car's handling feel like new.

Replacing the tie rods requires jacking up the front of your Cayenne and securing it on jack stands. Be sure to wear safety glasses while working under your Porsche You'll also need to remove the front wheels and also the inner wheel liners. See our articles on jacking up Your Cayenne and Removing Inner wheel liners for more information.

It is also important to have the car's suspension geometry checked by a good alignment shop. It is possible to get it close by measuring the overall length of the old rod and adjusting the new tie rod to match, but an alignment shop is invaluable in getting it perfect.

Left and Right Sides: Here is the tie rod on your Porsche Cayenne.
Figure 1

Left and Right Sides: Here is the tie rod on your Porsche Cayenne. You change the length of the tie rods by loosening the lock nut at the end of the tie rod (yellow arrow) and turning the body of the rod (green arrow).

Left and Right Sides: Begin by loosening the 21mm nut that secures the tie rod ball joint to the front wheel carrier.
Figure 2

Left and Right Sides: Begin by loosening the 21mm nut that secures the tie rod ball joint to the front wheel carrier. You'll need to hold the ball joint stationary with a T40 Torx driver. When installing the new tie rod, torque to 90 Nm (67 ft/lbs.).

Left and Right Sides: Porsche specifies the use of a special tool to separate the ball joint from the wheel carrier.
Figure 3

Left and Right Sides: Porsche specifies the use of a special tool to separate the ball joint from the wheel carrier. An easier method is unscrewing the 21mm nut down enough to where the threads are flush with the nut (green arrow). Some penetrant spray and a few good upward whacks with a dead blow hammer should pop it out.

Left and Right Sides: Loosen and remove the two 10mm bolts holding the heat shield in place on the right side of the car and set it aside.
Figure 4

Left and Right Sides: Loosen and remove the two 10mm bolts holding the heat shield in place on the right side of the car and set it aside. Use a pair of pliers to remove the spring clamp at the end of the dust boot (yellow arrow).

Left and Right Sides: Take note of the position of the clamps holding the boot to the steering rack (green arrow).
Figure 5

Left and Right Sides: Take note of the position of the clamps holding the boot to the steering rack (green arrow). When installing a new clamp, make sure that the raised tab is roughly out of the way of both the power steering lines and the heat shield.

Left and Right Sides: Now slide the dust boot back to expose the 36mm nut (green arrow) that secures the tie rod to the power steering rack.
Figure 6

Left and Right Sides: Now slide the dust boot back to expose the 36mm nut (green arrow) that secures the tie rod to the power steering rack.

Left and Right Sides: Use a 36mm wrench to loosen and remove the tire rod from the steering rack.
Figure 7

Left and Right Sides: Use a 36mm wrench to loosen and remove the tire rod from the steering rack. Take the old tie rod and line it up next to the old one. You'll want to adjust the new one to the same overall length. This will help in getting the tie rods close enough for driving the car to the alignment shop. Mark the location of the tie rod end on the threaded portion. Remove the tie rod end from both old and new tie rods and transfer the boot to the new one. Slide the boot back over the rack and use new clamps to secure it. Thread the tie rod ends back on. Now thread in the new tie rod and torque to 100 Nm (74 ft/lbs.) plus an additional 90-degree turn.

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Comments and Suggestions:
grphcdsgnr76 Comments: Hi,

Just a quick question on torquing the nuts to spec. How do you check torque on nuts that you can't use a socket on and need a regular open wrench for?

this is the first time I've attempted this project or any project where I couldn't get a socket on the the nut or bolt to be torqued so excuse the newbie question.

Or, is this like your DIY article for the 996/997 tie rods where the answer is to simply tighten the nuts as much as possible using a "regular" wrench?

Thanks.
June 15, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: a crows foot adapter will do it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Wed 7/26/2017 02:38:53 AM