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Rear Link Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Link Replacement

Jared Fenton

Time:

4 hours4 hrs

Tab:

$100 to $600

Talent:

****

Tools:

13mm/18mm/21mm/24mm sockets and wrenches, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

Porsche 955 Cayenne (2004-10)
Porsche 955 Cayenne GTS (2008-10)
Porsche 955 Cayenne S (2003-10)
Porsche 955 Cayenne Turbo (2003-10)
Porsche 955 Cayenne Turbo S (2006-10)

Parts Required:

Rear link arms

Hot Tip:

Support wheel carrier with floor jack

Performance Gain:

Better handling

Complementary Modification:

Replace rear control arm bushings.

In addition to the control arm, there are also three link arms that help articulate the rear suspension. Over time, the rubber bushings in each link arm can wear, leading to a variety of handling problems and also poor suspension alignment.

In this article, I'll go over the steps involved with replacing each link arm. The first step is to jack up the rear of your Cayenne and support it on jackstands. Remember to wear your safety glasses while under your car. You don't want to get any rust or dirt particles in your eyes. See our article on Jacking up Your Cayenne for more information. Once secured, remove the rear wheels.

Keep in mind that it is wise to support the underside of the control arm with a floor jack when removing the arms. However, it is possible to replace the rearmost two arms without supporting them with the jack. You'll need to move the jack in order to access the bolts.

Note that Porsche recommends replacing all fasteners when replacing the control links. Porsche has designed these bolts to be used only once. Also keep in mind that you'll need to do the final torquing of all the fasteners with the car on the ground and the suspension loaded. Just get the bolts tightened up enough to put the wheels back on and do your final torque settings.

This picture shows the three link arms on the rear suspension.
Figure 1

This picture shows the three link arms on the rear suspension. The bottom link is the toe control link (green arrow). This link adjusts the amount of toe-in on the rear wheels. Above the toe control link is the rear upper control link (blue arrow) and the front upper control link (yellow arrow). Refer back to this diagram if you get a bit lost. The factory manuals are a bit vague in describing the difference between them. Porsche refers to them as axle struts.

Support the rear suspension using a floor jack placed under the rear control arm as shown here.
Figure 2

Support the rear suspension using a floor jack placed under the rear control arm as shown here. Is you are replacing only the rear toe link, you do not need to support the control arm. The jack will also be in the way of the fasteners.

Front Control Link, Left and Right Sides: Loosen and remove the 18mm nut and bolt holding the link to the sub frame.
Figure 3

Front Control Link, Left and Right Sides: Loosen and remove the 18mm nut and bolt holding the link to the sub frame. Carefully tap the bolt out. When re-installing the nut and bolt, torque them to 90 Nm (67 ft/lbs.) and then turn the nut an additional 90 degrees.

Front Upper Control Link, Left and Right Sides: Bend back the locking tabs on the washer under the 24mm nut (green arrow) holding the link to the wheel carrier.
Figure 4

Front Upper Control Link, Left and Right Sides: Bend back the locking tabs on the washer under the 24mm nut (green arrow) holding the link to the wheel carrier. Loosen and remove the 24mm bolt (yellow arrow) while counter-holding the nut. You should now be able to remove the control link. When installing the new control link, use new hardware and torque to 150 Nm (111 ft/lbs.) and then turn the nut an additional 90 degrees.

Front Upper Control Link, Left and Right Sides: Loosen and remove the 10mm nut holding the ABS sensor wiring bracket to the control arm (green arrow).
Figure 5

Front Upper Control Link, Left and Right Sides: Loosen and remove the 10mm nut holding the ABS sensor wiring bracket to the control arm (green arrow).

Rear Upper Control Link, Left and Right Sides: Loosen and remove the 21mm nut (green arrow) and bolt (yellow arrow).
Figure 6

Rear Upper Control Link, Left and Right Sides: Loosen and remove the 21mm nut (green arrow) and bolt (yellow arrow). Note the orientation of the eccentric nut and washer from the side. Mark the position of the eccentric nut and washer, as you'll need to line it up in the same orientation when installing the new hardware. When installing the new control link, use new hardware and torque to 90 Nm (67 ft/lbs.) and then turn the nut an additional 90 degrees.

Rear Upper Control Link: Now loosen and remove the 24mm nut (yellow arrow) and bolt (green arrow) holding the link to the wheel carrier.
Figure 7

Rear Upper Control Link: Now loosen and remove the 24mm nut (yellow arrow) and bolt (green arrow) holding the link to the wheel carrier. You should now be able to remove the control link. When installing the new control link, use new hardware and torque to 150 Nm (111 ft/lbs.) and then turn the nut an additional 90 degrees.

Toe Control Link: Loosen and remove the 18mm nut and bolt holding the toe control link to the sub frame.
Figure 8

Toe Control Link: Loosen and remove the 18mm nut and bolt holding the toe control link to the sub frame. Note the orientation of the markings etched into the washer (green arrow). Make a mark on the washer that also extends on to the sub frame. You'll want to rotate the eccentric nut (yellow arrow) until the mark is in the same relative position. It sounds more complicated that it really is. Once you get the bolt loose, you'll understand how it works. When installing the new control link, use new hardware and torque to 90 Nm (67 ft/lbs.) and then turn the nut an additional 90 degrees.

Toe Control Link: Loosen and remove the 24mm nut and bolt (green arrow) holding the link to the wheel carrier.
Figure 9

Toe Control Link: Loosen and remove the 24mm nut and bolt (green arrow) holding the link to the wheel carrier. You should now be able to remove the control link. When installing the new control link, use new hardware and torque to 150 Nm (111 ft/lbs.) and then turn the nut an additional 90 degrees.

Shown here are the toe control link (yellow arrow) and the rear upper control link (green arrow) disconnected.
Figure 10

Shown here are the toe control link (yellow arrow) and the rear upper control link (green arrow) disconnected. I've included thisPicture to show that the front upper control link and A-arm provide enough strength to hold the wheel carrier upright. This will allow you to carefully lower the floor jack and reposition as needed for access to the bolts. You may also need to compress the shock absorber slightly upwards in order for the control links to line up with the mounting holes on the wheel carrier.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Keith Comments: What are the fastener part numbers to replace the track rod on passenger rear side? Planning on doing the replacement myself.
November 11, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I’m not the best with part numbers.


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