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Rear Sway Bar Bushing Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Sway Bar Bushing Replacement

Jared Fenton

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$50 to $130

Talent:

****

Tools:

16mm/18mm wrenches, T40 Torx driver, prybar

Applicable Models:

Porsche 955 Cayenne (2004-08)
Porsche 955 Cayenne GTS (2008)
Porsche 955 Cayenne S (2003-08)
Porsche 955 Cayenne Turbo (2003-08)
Porsche 955 Cayenne Turbo S (2006)

Parts Required:

New bushings, end links

Hot Tip:

Use a floor jack to take load off sway bar.

Performance Gain:

Better handling

Complementary Modification:

Replace rear shocks

Over time, sway bar bushings and end links can fail due to both wear and the elements. This usually presents itself as a loose feeling under load or bumps. It can also cause creaking and noise. It is possible to visually inspect the bushings by turning the wheels fully inward and using a flashlight to look for cracks. Also try to move the bar. Look for an excessive amount of deflection in the rubber bushings when doing so.

Porsche recommends removing the rear sway bar from the car to replace the bushings. I found that you can simply replace bushings and end links one side at a time. The first step in replacing the bushings is to jack the rear of the car up, secure it on jack stands and remove both rear wheels. See our article on Jacking Up Your Cayenne for more information.

Begin by removing the sway bar end link (green arrow) This is bolted to the sway bar at the top and the shock absorber mount at the bottom.
Figure 1

Begin by removing the sway bar end link (green arrow) This is bolted to the sway bar at the top and the shock absorber mount at the bottom.

Loosen the 18mm nut and bolt (green arrows) holding the end link to the bottom shock mount.
Figure 2

Loosen the 18mm nut and bolt (green arrows) holding the end link to the bottom shock mount. You'll likely need a breaker bar as this is torqued down to 90Nm (67 ft/lbs.). Remove the bolt enough to allow just the end link to come off.

Place a floor jack with a block of wood under the control arm.
Figure 3

Place a floor jack with a block of wood under the control arm. The idea here is to jack up the strut assembly slightly to take some of the load off the sway bar before sliding it off the bottom bolt. Jack slowly and carefully.

Now move to the upper connection on the end link.
Figure 4

Now move to the upper connection on the end link.

Hold the shaft of the upper end link ball joint by inserting a T40 Torx driver while loosening the 16mm nut.
Figure 5

Hold the shaft of the upper end link ball joint by inserting a T40 Torx driver while loosening the 16mm nut. Once the nut is removed, remove the end link from the car.

Now remove the right and left clamps holding the sway bar to the rear subframe.
Figure 6

Now remove the right and left clamps holding the sway bar to the rear subframe. These are held on place with two 16mm bolts each (green arrows).

The sway bar bushings are manufactured to be placed around the sway bar.
Figure 7

The sway bar bushings are manufactured to be placed around the sway bar. Note the orientation of the seam on the bushings to the edge of the mounting bracket and the subframe. Unlock the clips on the rear of the bushings and pry them apart.

Shown here is a closeup of the bushing halves.
Figure 8

Shown here is a closeup of the bushing halves. First carefully pry up the locking clip (green arrow) on both sides of the bushing and then gently pry them apart. You may need to use some force to get the old bushing out of the mounting bracket.

Now maneuver the sway bar down enough to pull the upper bushing (green arrow) off the bar.
Figure 9

Now maneuver the sway bar down enough to pull the upper bushing (green arrow) off the bar.

Shown here is the guide built into the sway bar.
Figure 10

Shown here is the guide built into the sway bar. This guide will allow the bushing halves to be mounted in degrees; you want to mount the upper bushing so that the edge is parallel to the edge of the subframe (yellow arrows). Once in place, put the lower bushing on and squeeze the halves together with a pair of channel locks until you can lock the tabs. Place the mounting bracket over the new bushing and torque the bolts to 50Nm (37 ft/lbs).

It's important to inspect the end links very carefully for signs of wear or cracking.
Figure 11

It's important to inspect the end links very carefully for signs of wear or cracking. Check that the dust boot (yellow arrow) is intact. If it it ripped, replace the end link. Also check the lower connection (green arrow) for cracks or excessive play. If there are any signs of failure, replace the end link. Also keep in mind that there is a left and right side link. You'll need to install the correct one per side.

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