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Front Sway Bar Bushing Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Front Sway Bar Bushing Replacement

Jared Fenton

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$50 to $130

Talent:

****

Tools:

16/18mm wrenches, screwdriver, paint pen

Applicable Models:

Porsche 955 Cayenne (2004-08)
Porsche 955 Cayenne GTS (2008)
Porsche 955 Cayenne S (2003-08)
Porsche 955 Cayenne Turbo (2003-08)
Porsche 955 Cayenne Turbo S (2006)

Parts Required:

New bushings and/or end links

Hot Tip:

Be sure to orient the bushings correctly

Performance Gain:

Better handling

Complementary Modification:

Replace front struts

Over time, sway bar bushings and end links can fail due to both wear and the elements. This usually presents itself as a loose feeling under load or bumps. It can also cause creaking and noise. It is possible to visually inspect the bushings by turning the wheels fully inward and using a flashlight to look for cracks. Also try to move the bar. Look for an excessive amount of deflection in the rubber bushings when doing so.

Replacing the bushings involves removing the sway bar from the car. The first step in removing the sway bar is to jack the car up, secure it on jack stands and remove both the front wheels and also the front under trays. See our articles on Jacking Up Your Cayenne and Removing Under Body Trays for more information.

Place a floor jack with a block of wood under the front control arm behind the brake rotor.
Figure 1

Place a floor jack with a block of wood under the front control arm behind the brake rotor. The idea here is to jack up the strut assembly slightly to take some of the load off the sway bar. Jack slowly and carefully, making sure that the block of wood is centered and will not slip off. Also make sure not to jack the assembly high enough to lift the vehicle off the jackstands.

Shown here is one of the two end links on either side of the sway bar (green arrow).
Figure 2

Shown here is one of the two end links on either side of the sway bar (green arrow). Note the orientation of the mounting ear on the sway bar (yellow arrow). You'll need this pointing up as shown here when re-installing the sway bar.

On both sides of the car, loosen and remove the 18mm nut and bolt holding the lower part of the end link to the mounting ear on the sway bar.
Figure 3

On both sides of the car, loosen and remove the 18mm nut and bolt holding the lower part of the end link to the mounting ear on the sway bar. You'll need to raise or lower the jack to pull the bolt out of the end link. Use caution when doing so; these bolts are torqued down very tight and may require a breaker bar.

Now remove the 18mm nut and bolt from the upper connection on both sides of the car.
Figure 4

Now remove the 18mm nut and bolt from the upper connection on both sides of the car. Porsche recommends replacing both the upper and lower nuts and bolts after removing them. When re-installing the bolts, torque both the upper and lower connections to 110Nm (81.5ft/lbs).

You'll find that the upper connection has a very long bolt running through the end link and the front strut (yellow arrow).
Figure 5

You'll find that the upper connection has a very long bolt running through the end link and the front strut (yellow arrow). I've seen this bolt installed both ways on the end links on different cars. On our project vehicle, removing it required careful manipulation of the floor jack to bring it to just the right angle to not hit the inner CV joint. Also helpful was removing the T20 Torx screw holding the wheel liner in place (green arrow) and carefully pulling the head of the bolt under the liner.

ThisPicture shows the liner (green arrow) up and over the end link as we pull the bolt out.
Figure 6

ThisPicture shows the liner (green arrow) up and over the end link as we pull the bolt out.

Now move to the front of the car and note the seam in the sway bar bushing (green arrow).
Figure 7

Now move to the front of the car and note the seam in the sway bar bushing (green arrow). You'll want to take a paint pen and make a small line along the same plane as the seam (yellow arrow). It is helpful to have this mark when installing the new bushings.

Now remove the right and left clamps holding the sway bar to the front subframe.
Figure 8

Now remove the right and left clamps holding the sway bar to the front subframe. These are held on place with two 16mm bolts each (green arrows).

The right side clamp (looking towards the rear of the car) has one bolt (green arrow) that comes in close proximity of an air conditioning line (yellow arrow).
Figure 9

The right side clamp (looking towards the rear of the car) has one bolt (green arrow) that comes in close proximity of an air conditioning line (yellow arrow). You may need to massage the line a bit to provide clearance for the bolt.

ThisPicture shows the upper clamp being removed from the top of the sway bar.
Figure 10

ThisPicture shows the upper clamp being removed from the top of the sway bar.

With a helper, carefully twist and manipulate the sway bar until you can clear the oil cooler and out from the car.
Figure 11

With a helper, carefully twist and manipulate the sway bar until you can clear the oil cooler and out from the car.

Shown here is a close up of the bushing halves.
Figure 12

Shown here is a close up of the bushing halves. First carefully pry up the locking clip (green arrow) on both sides of the bushing. Now carefully pry the halves apart along the seam with a screwdriver (yellow arrow).

You'll note that the sway bar has a six sided indexing ring attached to it (green arrow).
Figure 13

You'll note that the sway bar has a six sided indexing ring attached to it (green arrow). The bushing halves need to fit on the bar in the correct orientation. Make sure that the mounting ears of the bar are pointed up, then place the larger end of the bushing facing the end of the bar as shown here while lining up the paint mark you made earlier with the edge of the bushing half. Once you are confident everything is located correctly, place the upper bushing half on and squeeze them together with a pair of channel locks until you can lock the pins.

Check the rubber bushings on each end of the end links for cracking or tearing.
Figure 14

Check the rubber bushings on each end of the end links for cracking or tearing. If you see any or if the inner sleeve is very loose, replace the end link.

When re-installing the sway bar, note the orientation of the seam to the edge of the mounting area.
Figure 15

When re-installing the sway bar, note the orientation of the seam to the edge of the mounting area. They should line up if you measured correctly. Once in place, re-install the upper clamps and torque each bolt to 60Nm (44 ft/lbs.).

Shown here is the overall angle the bar should be at if you have installed it correctly.
Figure 16

Shown here is the overall angle the bar should be at if you have installed it correctly. As before, make sure that the mounting ears are facing upwards (green arrow).

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