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Rear Hatch Shock Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Hatch Shock Replacement

Jared Fenton

Time:

2 hour2 hr

Tab:

$100

Talent:

***

Tools:

T10, T20 Torx drivers, trim removal tools

Applicable Models:

Porsche 955 Cayenne (2004-10)
Porsche 955 Cayenne GTS (2008-10)
Porsche 955 Cayenne S (2003-10)
Porsche 955 Cayenne Turbo (2003-10)
Porsche 955 Cayenne Turbo S (2006-10)

Parts Required:

New hatch shocks

Hot Tip:

Have a friend hold the hatch open for you

Performance Gain:

No more knocks on the head from the hatch

Complementary Modification:

Replace rear speakers

Are you getting tired of having your rear hatch falling on your head? It's probably time to replace the hatch shocks. These are among the most disposable of parts on the Cayenne. They will fail - it's just a matter of when. Replacing them is a relatively easy task, however one that requires removal of some interior trim pieces. With a little bit of patience, you can replace your hood and trunk lid shocks in about 2 hours

Start by lifting up the rear hatch, and securing it using a long stick or even a long piece of ABS pipe. Make sure that this support is securely affixed, as the rear hatch is heavy and could possibly injure you if it falls.

Shown here is a new set of rear hatch shocks for the Porsche Cayenne.
Figure 1

Shown here is a new set of rear hatch shocks for the Porsche Cayenne. Replacement is relatively easy, but does require removing some trim panels to access them. In this article, I will go over the steps involved with replacing them and keep the rear hatch from falling on your head.

Begin by removing the retractable shade from the rear of your Cayenne.
Figure 2

Begin by removing the retractable shade from the rear of your Cayenne. Press the tab on the shade and lift it up and out of the back of the car.

Shown here is the center upper trim panel that holds the rear hatch light.
Figure 3

Shown here is the center upper trim panel that holds the rear hatch light. We will need to remove this panel to gain access to the side panels.

Carefully pry the light out of the trim panel on the side shown here (green arrow).
Figure 4

Carefully pry the light out of the trim panel on the side shown here (green arrow).

Pull off the electrical connector to the light (green arrow).
Figure 5

Pull off the electrical connector to the light (green arrow).

You'll now need to remove the trim panel.
Figure 6

You'll now need to remove the trim panel. Start at the outside edge and pull down the panel enough to see the mounting clips (green arrows). Use a flat head screwdriver to carefully pop each clip out from the sheet metal. Take care not to damage the plastic towers that hold the clips. Just take your time and work carefully.

Open the plastic covers at the top of each rear side panel (green arrow).
Figure 7

Open the plastic covers at the top of each rear side panel (green arrow).

Inside the panel is a T10 Torx screw (green arrow).
Figure 8

Inside the panel is a T10 Torx screw (green arrow). Remove them from each side.

Now from the top edge of each side panel, carefully pop the retaining clips out (green arrow).
Figure 9

Now from the top edge of each side panel, carefully pop the retaining clips out (green arrow). Again, take care not to damage the plastic towers.

Once free, carefully pull on each side panel until you feel the clips pop out of the sheet metal.
Figure 10

Once free, carefully pull on each side panel until you feel the clips pop out of the sheet metal. It will take a bit of effort and also care to remove the side panels. You may also find that some of the metal clips are still stuck inside the sheet metal. If this happens, just pop them out and fit them back into the plastic tower.

Press the tab on the connector going to each speaker and pull it off (green arrow).
Figure 11

Press the tab on the connector going to each speaker and pull it off (green arrow).

On each side of the car, remove the three T25 Torx screws (green arrows) holding the plastic bracket in place.
Figure 12

On each side of the car, remove the three T25 Torx screws (green arrows) holding the plastic bracket in place. Take note of the orientation of the cables directly above it.

Once removed, position the cables out of the way of the black foam insert above.
Figure 13

Once removed, position the cables out of the way of the black foam insert above. This insert covers the compartment holding the hatch shocks. Keep in mind that these inserts are held in place with a sticky waterproofing sealant that can get all over the place. It's a good idea to wear gloves here, as it will get all over your fingers. Use a screwdriver to carefully pry the insert out along the edge (green arrow). It's very easy to tear these inserts, but if careful, they can be re-used.

Once the edge if the insert is free, pull the insert out of the car.
Figure 14

Once the edge if the insert is free, pull the insert out of the car. If there is an excess of sealant around the edge, take some extra time to clean it up.

Up inside the compartment, you'll see both the rear hatch shock on the outboard side and the rear window shock on the inboard side.
Figure 15

Up inside the compartment, you'll see both the rear hatch shock on the outboard side and the rear window shock on the inboard side. To remove the old shock, use a long screwdriver in between the chassis and the shock, pry the end of the shock off (green arrow). There isn't a lot of room to work with here, so you'll have to kind of play around with it until you hit the sweet sport and the end pops off.

Now use the screwdriver to pop the other end of the shock off (green arrow).
Figure 16

Now use the screwdriver to pop the other end of the shock off (green arrow). It will take a bit of force to remove them. Get the new shocks ready by placing a dab of grease inside the ball cup on either end.

Now here's where it gets a bit tricky.
Figure 17

Now here's where it gets a bit tricky. In order to remove the old shock, you'll need to slide it back up in inside the compartment (follow the direction the green arrow is pointing). This will allow you to angle the rearmost end of the shock to come down and out of the compartment. To install the new shock, place the front most end of the shock in the direction of the arrow until you can slide the other end of the shock up into place. Now you'll need to press the ball caps over the pivots. The best way to do this is to first attach the shock to the rear hatch side. You'll find that they press on very easily. Now get a helper to hold the hatch, as you'll need to move it slightly up and down while you position the other end of the shock onto the body. This can be a little challenging, as you wont be able to see anything. It's all by feel.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Bones Comments: Just completed the job, having ordered the parts from you guys. Apart from Fig.8 being Phillips head like some others here in my '03 Cayenne S, it went exactly according to your instructions. Thanks very much guys!! Getting the spring clips out is a pain...
September 29, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Steve Comments: On my 08 CTT the driver side has hydrolic and the strut does not match the one purchased, the OEM spring is longer and bigger.
September 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Did you purchase from pelican? Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Tennessee Turbo Comments: Thank you! I was super slow and careful and it took about the 2 hours you stated. Great instructions. I went through about 4 pairs of gloves due to the sealant goo getting everywhere.
June 7, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
KG Comments: On my 2004, fig 8 is Phillips. Bending panels to access clips seemed like I was going to break but they are fairly flexible. Most difficult was fig 15 and prying with tight access and then jimmying to remove the shock. Echo JerseyJer. I really appreciate this site - complete how-to and source at a reasonable price. Nailing loyalty. Thanks.
April 18, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Nacho Comments: As already mentioned, fig8 is also Phillips on my 2004 S, so maybe some model difference there. Great write up guys. Just finished doing these on mine. Ordered from this site, so really a one stop shop.
March 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Spongep Comments: 2004 S model - screws in fig 8 under small grey panels are regular phillips - not T10s
February 20, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Sponge Comments: Also recommend doing the front of the shock first during install - then you can see the ball joint and the shock alignment by looking from the back through the hinge - much easier than trying to look up through the panel you removed.
February 20, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JerseyJer Comments: I did this job alone and used a 2x4 to hold the hatch open fig 18 section. I actually found it easier to install the foremost section first because it allowed me to see the rearmost alignment of caps on pivots. I did have to adjust the 2x4 hoist level slightly to align it, but this would've been harder blind like these instructions say.
December 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Chuck Comments: Thank you very much for your response. Yes it goes up just fine but going down is very fast and hard. It slams shut. I close it now by hand and hope this won't damage it.
May 26, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would think the struts need replacement, you could check this by adding hydraulic fluid to the system. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Chuck Comments: I have a 2008 Cayenne with a power back life gate. When you close the gate it goes down very hard. Is their an adjustment for this or do you need to replace the shocks? Thank you for your thoughts.
May 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Does it go up OK? I am thinking that there is air in the hydraulic system causing it to drop quickly? This can be caused by a bad cylinder (shock) or valving in the pump assembly. - Casey at Pelican Parts  

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