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Porsche 911 Carrera Alternator Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Porsche 911 Carrera Alternator Replacement

Time:

4 hours4 hrs

Tab:

$400

Talent:

**

Tools:

Socket set

Applicable Models:

 
Porsche 996 Carrera models (1999-05)
Porsche 996 Turbo, GT2, GT3 (2001-05)
Porsche 997 Carrera models (2005-08)
Porsche 997 Turbo, GT2, GT3 (2007-08)

Parts Required:

New alternator, new drive belt

Hot Tip:

Tap the inside bushing to release it from the bracket

Performance Gain:

Consistent charging output

Complementary Modification:

Replace drive belts

One of the nice things about the configuration of the Carrera engine is the relative ease with which you can replace the alternator. The alternator is nestled neatly on the left side of the engine compartment and is fairly easy to get at. The replacement and repair process is straightforward and should take you about an afternoon to complete.

The first thing that you need to do is to make sure that your alternator is indeed the cause of the problems with your charging system. Sometimes bizarre electrical problems can be caused by a number of faults other than the alternator. It's important to troubleshoot the system prior to replacing your alternator.

If it seems to be the culprit, check the belt that drives the alternator. Is it tight and amply turning the alternator pulley? If it's worn or close to breaking, then replace it and recheck the alternator (see Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Belts on the Porsche 911 Carrera). Modern belts seldom break, but they get brittle and glazed with age and can slip on their pulleys.

The next item to check is the voltage at the battery. This should read a little more than 12 volts with the engine off. With the engine running at 2000 rpm, the voltage should read at in the range of 13 to 14.5 volts. If your battery appears to be leaking, then your alternator's voltage regulator has probably failed. The battery will usually only leak acid if it has been overcharged at a much higher voltage. If the voltage measured at the battery is more than 16 or 17 volts when the engine is running, then the regulator is probably bad. If your battery has boiled over and has acid overflowing out the top, make sure that you clean up any spilled acid immediately. Dousing the area with a water and baking soda solution should help considerably to neutralize the acid and prevent it from eating away at the metal. Be sure to wear gloves and eye protection.

An important item to check on your car is the engine ground strap. The engine is electrically isolated from the chassis by rubber motor mounts. If the engine ground strap is missing or disconnected, then you might have a whole bunch of problems, including electrical system malfunctions and difficultly turning over the starter. See Project 81 for the exact location of this ground strap.

Before starting any work, make sure that you disconnect the battery. The positive battery terminal is directly connected to the alternator, and it can be dangerous to work on if it's live (see Pelican Technical Article: Porsche 911 Carrera Battery Replacement Trickle Charger Installation).

The first step in removing the alternator is to remove the airbox from the car. Please refer to Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Your Porsche Carrera Air Filter (996/997), Replacing your air filter. Once the air filter is removed, you will need to remove the serpentine belt that drives the alternator. Refer to Project 5 for detailed instructions on the belt removal. You may also need to remove the vacuum connection for the brake booster directly above the alternator for additional space. This is held in place with two 8mm screws. Remove the screws and carefully set the check valve off to the side.

Now, loosen but do not remove the lower alternator bolt, then loosen the idler pulley that is located next to the alternator. Loosen the bolt and back it out about 3-4 full turns. Then, using a drift and a hammer, tap on the bolt. The purpose for doing this is to loosen up the metal bushing that is located inside the rear flange of the alternator. With the bushing loose, lift up on the idler pulley, and the alternator assembly should rotate counter-clockwise. Remove the lower bolt, and the alternator should be able to be lifted up and out of the engine.

On this particular car, the bushing was a tight fit and required quite a bit of tapping, and quite a bit of wiggling to remove. Specifically, I had to use a very long drift to tap directly on the rear bushing to get the assembly loose. Other mechanics seem to indicate that this is a common problem, so you might have to work at it a bit to get your alternator out.

With the alternator unbolted, disconnect the electrical connections from the rear. Reminder: Don't touch these connections while the battery is still hooked up (Pelican Technical Article: Porsche 911 Carrera Battery Replacement Trickle Charger Installation).

If you are replacing the alternator completely, then the installation of the new alternator is simply the reverse of the removal process. Make sure that you reconnect all of the wires to their proper terminals when you are done. If you're still not sure if your alternator is bad, you can take it to any good auto parts store, and they should be able to test it for you for a modest fee.

Shown here is a brand new rebuilt alternator.
Figure 1

Shown here is a brand new rebuilt alternator. Unlike older-style Porsche alternators, this one is pretty much plug-and-play. The regulator is internal, and the alternator should come with the proper pulley installed on the front. The green arrow in the inset photo shows the metal bushing that may give you trouble when you try to remove the alternator. This bushing is the one that needs to be tapped on in order to loosen the assembly for removal.

Shown here are the two 15mm mounting bolts for the alternator on a Carrera engine.
Figure 2

Shown here are the two 15mm mounting bolts for the alternator on a Carrera engine. You'll need to first loosen and remove the upper bolt (green arrow), and back it out about 3 or 4 full turns. Then, using a drift and a hammer, tap on the bolt. The purpose for doing this is to loosen up the metal bushing that is located inside the rear flange of the alternator. With the bushing loose, lift up on the idler pulley, and the alternator assembly should rotate counter-clockwise. Now remove the lower bolt (purple arrow).

On the 996 engines, remove the two 8mm screws (green arrows) holding the brake booster vacuum connection to the left (driver's) side intake.
Figure 3

On the 996 engines, remove the two 8mm screws (green arrows) holding the brake booster vacuum connection to the left (driver's) side intake. This will allow a little more wiggle room to remove the alternator from the engine compartment.

Rotate the alternator to remove it from the engine.
Figure 4

Rotate the alternator to remove it from the engine. It may take a bit of maneuvering to remove, but it is possible. The insert photo shows the brake vacuum line on the 997 engines (green arrow). You can disconnect it from the cross member to give you addition room.

With the alternator unbolted, disconnect the electrical connections from the rear.
Figure 5

With the alternator unbolted, disconnect the electrical connections from the rear. Reminder: don't touch these connections while the battery is still hooked up.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Aly Comments: Bottom view of the MAFS mating connector on the air filter box showing the lock bump that secures it on. Even with this cleared by pushing on the tab, the connector is still held on by the friction of the pins and the rubber seal, so wiggling and pulling will get it off.
April 11, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Awesome stuff. Thanks for sharing., This is a big help to the Pelican community. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Aly Comments: MAFS connector side view.
April 11, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Big thanks, once again. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Aly Comments: I thought I would put some photos up of the mass air flow sensor that gives many great difficulty in removing from the air filter assembly. I have to post each in a separate post in order to upload them.
I put a piece of blue tape on the part of the locking tab that needs to be pressed on in order to remove it. As you can see it has the body on the sides of it so you have to press where the blue tape only or it will not go in far enough to raise the other end above the lock bump so it can be removed. The plug has five connector pins and a rubber seal that are also holding it in, so even with the tab pressed well, the plug must be pulled off carefully with some force. The combination of the two makes it hard to remove until you have done it several times. You don't want to pull on the wires and only on the body. Pushing on the tabs on the side of the body with one hand while squeezing the tab and pulling with the other should do the trick. Photo of the tab side with blue tape where to press.
April 11, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your repairprocess and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Aly Comments: For those that have been following my problem trying to troubleshoot the check battery/generator message I have been getting on my 2006 911S with a 2008 911S engine, I seem to have solved the problem. I had checked Porsche schematics for the engine wiring harness for both engines, as I had read that Porsche had moved the blue alternator wire to go to a different DME pin between MYs 2005/6 and 2007/8. I suspected that possibly that was the cause of the problem making me get the warning message and P0621 DME code. After studying the wiring on both engines, I found that no signals wires were changed on the actual engine wiring harness, but the alternator pin was changed at the DME from the DME B connector to the DME C connector. So if the DME wiring harness was changed as well as the engine wiring harness and the DME harness from the engine wiring harness when installing the 2008 engine, then the alternator lamp circuit signal blue wire, would end up on the wrong pin of the DME which has no function on the 2005/6 DME. If the DME harness was not changed to a 2007/8 harness, but the engine harness was changed to a 2007/8 one with the engine, then the alternator lamp circuit signal will still be on the correct DME connector/pin.
I was able to confirm in my case that this blue wire from the alternator did have continuity to the correct wire on the engine wiring harness TSX59_2 connector's blue wire not TSX59_1's blue wire which I thought was the other end after unplugging the it and checking with my DVOM. So I put it back together, and planned to measure the voltage on that wire at the #2 engine harness connector tomorrow, but knew it will measure correct. I started up the car, and ran it a bit, and to my amazement, the warning message was gone and did not even show up in the OBC info messages history anymore! I think that the 25 pin engine harness connector was loose and plugging it back in and tightening it real well made it connect again, carrying the alternator lamp voltage to the DME!
I had replaced the alternator's voltage regulator thinking that was the problem, but that did not solve the problem. I have to recommend the OEM Porsche repair documentation from www.alldatadiy.com I purchased which included electrical schematics to help with me figuring out if I had a wiring problem from the engine change or from some other cause. I was not able to find these schematics from any other sources on the Internet and from other Porsche manuals. Yeah!
March 29, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: YES!!! Thank you for posting your resolution. I have learned a lot through the process and I bet many of our fellow Porsche drivers have too. Thanks again for your contribution to the Pelican DIY community. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
LB Comments: Thanks for the article, it was very helpful. Replaced the alternator today with no issues. Do you know the tightening torques for the two bolts on the alternator? Don't want to repeat the mistake of others that said they broke the bracket.
March 19, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don’t have torque information.

I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Aly Comments: Casey, I only have the 2008 alternator, but I did replace the voltage regulator in it with a new one for that year alternator. I don't think your idea would work anyway, and I don't believe the voltage regulator for a 2006 is compatible with the 2008 version. I already returned the 2006 alternator because of the connector.
I do not measure any voltage on the blue L wire at the 25 pin engine harness connector that connects to the harness going to the DME. Unfortunately I can't measure the voltage on the same wire leaving the alternator because it is impossible to get to with the alternator installed. I need to take out the alternator once more to test out the continuity of the L terminal connector and the wire, since it seems that there is a break somewhere or I would be seeing voltage on the other end. I know I plugged it in all the way until it locked. Hopefully this will be the last time I take out the alternator. I may splice a wire to the L wire on the back of the alternator so I can measure it once it is installed, but if I can fix what seems to be a bad connection, it won't be necessary. I don't believe the voltage out of the L terminal of the regulator is any different between the 2006 and 2007/8 alternators, but can't find any specs saying anything about it. I have to assume it is the same 14 volts coming out of the alternator's main wire going to the starter and on to the battery. It seems logical that the DME just monitors it to warn if the alternator fails or the battery loads it down.
Thanks for your response. I may try running a wire from the battery to the blue wire on the DME through a 1000 ohm resistor for short protection to interject 14 volts and see if I can clear the message since the wire measures as if it is an open circuit, before taking out the alternator again. The Porsche OEM 2006 schematics have helped. Since the color of adjacent wires to the blue wire on the DME cable do not match the colors shown on my schematics, I need to check the 2008 schematics to make confirm the harness is a 2008 harness and what I am measuring is actually on the right pin even though it appears to be.
March 17, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I apologize for going back and forth with Casey and I.

Running a new wire is the fastest way to test the circuit. You can easily crimp and shrink the repaired or old wire back if it does not remedy the issue. Otherwise you are spending countless time chasing a possible wiring issue. This is a technique I have used and taught to professionals for years, it is the fastest way to determine circuit issues. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Aly Comments: Nick, when yousay run a new wire, it seems simple, but I don't really like the idea of cutting the wire that is part of the wiring harness. There is a big 25 pin engine wiring harness connector of two that the wires go to in order to connect to the cable that goes to the DME. I don't want to cut the blue wire in order to run a new wire. I would have to cut it at the alternator end, splice it to the connector, then cut it at the 25 pin DME end and splice it there. Not something I really want to do unless it is my only option. If I just run a wire parallel with the existing wire and there is a short, that wire will short also. I need to do some more investigating to see if the wire is open somewhere. I assume the voltage I expect to see is 14 volts, but since this is a wire going to a digital chip, it may be only 5 volts.
March 15, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hello Aly,
Just back from vacation, and I am reading through what Nick and you have worked through. First I love learning stuff like this so thank you for posting your information. I am curious about this, but am wondering if you could just install the voltage regulator from the 06 Alternator to the 08 alternator and see if that works? - Casey at Pelican Parts
 
Aly Comments: Nick, I still get the error message after 5 minutes it comes back. I am using alldatadiy.com for OEM repair data now. The causes of the error P0621 are from either the alternator, or the Lamp terminal being unconnected, shorted to ground, or shorted to B+. So since I now know that my alternator is not the reason, I am trying to determine if the blue wire coming from the alternator going through the engine wiring harness to the harness connector that goes to the DME under the back seat is open or shorted. There is also a strong possiblity that because the engine was changed to a 2008 997 with its wiring harness and the car is a 2006, that the L terminal wire is not going to the right DME pin, B12, and is going to C19, as I have read that others have said that had the same problem after changing engines. I have seen that the DME on the 2006 has pins B12 and C19 both labeled generator, yet no wire shown going to C19 on the schematic. At this point I just need to confirm that there is no L-terminal voltage on the blue wire from the alternator, but I can't get to it when the alternator is installed and the car is running to measure its voltage. The engine blocks the alternator from below the car, and the back of it can't be accessed from the engine trunk. A real dilema. Could be something as simple as the L-terminal connector on the back of the alternator just not making a good connection even though it was plugged in all the way.

March 14, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you suspect a shorted wire, no need to try to find short or open. Just run a new wire, it can be temporary outside of the main harness for now. Once the wire is in place, you will know right away if the problem is fixed.

if you share the wiring for your vehicle, I can take a look and see what i think voltage should be on each wire. I unfortunately do not have wiring for your vehicle to check before hand. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Aly Comments: The pictures here look like a 996 and not a 997. I don't believe the 997s had a oil dip stick anymore, as mine does not. I found that to remove the alternator it has to be turned clockwise so the pulley bolt holes on it go down. It cannot be turned counter clockwise because it hits the intake manifold before the mount holes clear the bracket. It can only be pulled straight out once it is turned as far clockwise as it can go after the bolt holes are cleared from the bracket. I could not loosen up the bushing in the back hole by banging on the bolt with a hard rubber hammer. I had to wiggle and wiggle to get it off and it came off with a lot of struggle. Even when it was out of the car, I still could not get the bushing to budge and was too tight to get back in by wiggling it. I decided to file the inside edge of the bushing to make a little clearance since I was not going to struggle getting it in again and may have to take it out again. This helped a lot. I had put in a new voltage regulator in the alternator and tested the 3 diode rectifiers with a DVOM, and they checked out. I have it back in the car and it works fine, but my error message saying to check battery/generator comes back after clearing it with my code reader tool. Voltage measures 14V all the time now.
BTW, I have not had this car 1 year yet, but this project forced me to remove the air box. While it was out, I opened it up and checked the air filter. It has so much dirt in it, that when I smacked it on the pavement, it all came out. I was amazed to find that the clean side of the airbox was very clean so the filter did it's job despite the amount of dirt it was holding. Cleaned the air box inside, put in a new filter, and it seems to run much better with more pep. I am not just imagining it. So check your air filter. Don't let it get this bad. Too bad Porsche did not make this air filter box top removable without taking out the whole thing, like many cars do.
March 9, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The photos are from a 996 as far as I can tell.

You are still getting a fault for charging system after making the repair? - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Aly Comments: Here is the photo of the 2007/8 L/DFM connector. You can see the keys inside are different from the 2004/5/6 version.
March 9, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks again. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Aly Comments: I thought I would pass this info on. Porsche 911s of years 2007 and 2008 and maybe afterwards using a differently keyed L-DFM connector on the voltage regulator than previous years 997s. Alternators 997.603.012.01 use one type that will not plug into the wiring harness connector that had a 997.603.022.01 alternator. So you might run into this problem like I did since I have a 2006 911 with a 2008 engine in it. I attached a photo but only 1 is able to be attached so the next post will have the other photo. Both alternators are physically the same, but there might be an electrical difference since the connector is made to prevent it from being plugged into the wrong year of car.
One thing I found out is many 2007 and 2008 rebuilt alternators are coming from BBA Industries and have 8 groove pulleys on them instead of the 6 groove pulley Porsche uses. These may still work as BBA does not seem to have known about this when I let them know. Porsche does not use 8 groove pulleys on 911s and most of all its cars as I was told by the Porsche dealer parts department.
March 9, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the info and taking the time to share it. I am sure it will come in handy for many Pelican users for years to come. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Aly Comments: Rick, I had the same problem. I just kept wiggling it side to side until I got some movement and since it only can turn clockwise to get it out, you are limited in the movement direction. Try spraying a little WD40 where the bolt goes into the bushing. I don't think that the bushing sleeve moves much.
March 9, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Rick Comments: Having a terrible time getting the alternator out. How will I know the bushing has been tapped out enough? I've been tapping the bolt on and off for over an hour. No movement at all.
March 8, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Rick here is tip from Aly:

Rick, I had the same problem. I just kept wiggling it side to side until I got some movement and since it only can turn clockwise to get it out, you are limited in the movement direction. Try spraying a little WD40 where the bolt goes into the bushing. I don't think that the bushing sleeve moves much. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Aly Comments: It seems that in 2007 Porsche went to a 8 groove pulley system so after 2006 the alternator comes with a 6 groove pulley. That is what is different about the alternators. I was able to clear the P0621 code my iCarsoft Por II diagonostic tool read, but the car had to be running to clear it. After 5 minutes the OBD message on the tach display showed the message again, and the P0621 code was read again. So on to replacing the alternator to find out if that will make difference. The process might tell me if the blue voltage sense wire that goes to the DME is not connected well. That would be nice to find. If not, I hope the alternator will. I just don't want to take it to Porsche unless I have to, and don't want to be told I need a new alternator. The one I have always puts out 14 volts at any RPM according to my guage, but 13.85 volts according to my DMV. It seems too high to me.
March 4, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That fault is for the field wire. If you have wiring for the vehicle, I can review it and see if I can determine for you the voltage that should be on that wire. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Aly Comments: I don't believe it is an instrument panel problem because I get an error code when I read the codes, I think it was P0641 or something like that that has a phrase "Alternator L-Terminal".
I am thinking that maybe I have the 2008 alternator which puts out more or less voltage than the 2006 alternator. If I had the 2006 alternator on the 2008 engine in the 2006 car, I can't see why it would matter.
Do you know what the difference is in the alternators between 2006 and 2007/2008? They are not the same part number.
Thanks for your reply.
February 15, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not sure the difference, but I believe one is Bosch and the other Valeo? - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Aly Comments: Correction:
Could this be why I get the message since I was told the 2006 alternator was not replaced when the 2008 engine was installed? Any ideas?
February 14, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the voltage gauge is accurate you may have an instrument cluster issue and that message could be due to an internal issue with the instrument cluster. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Aly Comments: I posted a problem with my 2006 Porsche 911S regarding the message I get on the tach display that says "check generator or battery". The original engine had been replaced with the same 3.8L engine, but from a 2008 Targa S. I read a post about the wiring of the blue wire from the alternator to a different pin someone posted, but I don't think that any wiring changes were made on different yeas of the 997.1 models. I looked at schematics for 997.1s and they were for 2006 to 2008. Maybe the wire pin was changed between an 2005 996 and 2006 997.1. I don't think that is what is causing this message. The voltage on a voltage gauge I installed always reads about 14 volts at any RPM and the battery always seems charged so I don't think anything is wrong with the alternator or voltage regulator.
I notice that the alternator part number changes in 2007 from the 2006 911 models all models of the same year seem to use the same alternator for the manual transmision and the pulley is fixed whereas the pully has a clutch for automatics. The 2008 alternator is more expensive than the 2006 but I believe both are 150 amps. My question is what is different about the 2008 alternator from the 2006 one? Could this be why I get the message since I was told the 2006 alternator was not replaced when the 2006 engine was installed? Any ideas?
February 14, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Going to post this to the forums and see if anyone can assist. - Casey at Pelican Parts  
Hurdigurdiman Comments: Zigg1999 the part you broke is simply called the LID and it will cost you $250 from Pelican parts. I know because my so called INDY did the same trick and he didn't tell me. A week after he worked on the car, the serpentine belt snapped and it was then that I found out why it snapped. There was nothing wrong with the belt on the car until a wobbly alternator shredded it to pieces.
February 13, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the reply, we appreciate your contribution! - Casey at Pelican Parts  
MAC Comments: Nick I have some problems with my 1999 996. Background: Troubleshooting told me my alternator was dead. I couldn't get the $^%#%& thing out. I tried for quite a long time to turn and wiggle the alternator but I just couldn't get it out. So after rereading Jackdflash's comment, I removed the bracket/coolant cover p/n 996.101.215.9R and indeed get a rush of coolant, but the alternator slid right out. Problems: 1 Jackdflash mentioned there was a metal gasket. I didn't see one and wonder is there a replacement gasket available? 2 I broke the tips off a connector on the rubber hose coming off the bracket/coolant cover p/n 996.106.225.51. I've ordered a replacement, but I'm not sure if I need to replace the hoses because the old tip might still be inside the hose. In any case I need to loosen the clips to install the new connector. How do I loosen the clamps that have on spreader? 3 I also broke the brittle small hoses coming off of the changeover value p/n 993.605.123.00. I think I can order the value and the hoses, my problem is it possible to attach the hoses to the other end? Can this be done without dropping the engine. Thanks, MAC
October 8, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: 1. There is a gasket for that part.

2. In the old hose, remove the broken piece the same way you would remove it.

3. Spreader? Can you share a photo?

4. Get a new valve if broken, then use a vacuum line connector to piece the hoses back together, to avoid major disassembly.


Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Jackdflash Comments: I struggled for a couple of hours trying to remove my alternator following your guide. My car is an early 2005 with a 150A alternator. I finally removed the alternator bracket. Behind that bracket is coolant but you only lose about a quart. The gasket is metal, be careful when moving the alternator to loosen the cable not to snag the gasket and damage it. Otherwise, the gasket does not need to be replaced. Once I decided to remove the bracket the job was straightforward and easy. I too had slow cranking when hot. After replacing the battery the starter showed a lot of power but over time, about a month, slowed more and more. Troubleshooting showed a low charge but not low enough to ever show a warning message. Replacing the regulator solved my problem and the improvement was immediate. BTY I got error messages and "Check Engine" after this work. Stay calm, drive the car around the block, shut it off, start it up, maybe three times, error messages were cleared.
October 1, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Robert Comments: Removed my alternator today, following these exact steps. Started using an unfastener spray on graphite basis a couple of days back, to help loosen the two alternator bolts. They came off in a jiffy. It's really worth it to take your time to loosen the bolts. When returning the alternator, make sure you don't overtighten the long bolt. This can damage the alternator housing. Anyways, the refurbished alternator makes a difference, with a solid 14v on a cold start, and a drop to just about 13,5v with radio, lights and A/C on. Usefull thing to do, not that difficult at all.
September 9, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Aly Comments: I thought I would make a post here and ask if anyone has had the "check battery or generator" warning message displayed on the tach for a 997? I have a 2006 911S that had an engine transplant before I bought the car. It had a 2008 Targa 911S engine installed and I believe that is when the warning message began. I have had the battery checked with a battery load tester and the alternator voltage checked which is 13.9 volts. Other than the message that comes up when the ignition key is turned on, the car is fine. I get a P0621 Generator lamp/terminal circuit code under DME on my iCarsoft Porsche II tester that cannot be cleared and status is current. I found info on planet-9.com site that seems to be the cause, a wire change from the DME of blue wire from C-19 to B-12 that was made on these engines after 2006. Here is a link to the forum that outlines the problem that I made a post on.

http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-and-boxster-problems-and-complaints/39475-warning-battery-generator-help.html

I did not know if this was the right place to post this, but it seemed relevant. Anyone had this problem corrected?
June 27, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your repair process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Zig1999 Comments: In your pictures of the two bolts I broke the mount the lower bolt is in that has a hose coming off of it. purple arrow in you picWhat is this part called and could advise if you carry it?
June 1, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That is the alternator bracket. Pelican parts can get you the part.

Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
ed Comments: Hi Wayne, Thanks for all your tips. Seems on the forums that a common problem is the cable from the alternator to the starter causing the slow crank when hot that Jeff mentioned also. My '99 is having this issue. Is replacing the cable accomplished by removing the alternator?
February 2, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, then follow the cable to starter / battery and replace. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jeff Diffenderfer Comments: Removal worked just fine. Thanks.
Alternator check out OK at test. Trouble restarting warm car. Acts like a bad electrical connection and clicks/slow rev with starter or no turnover at all. Checked ground straps. All OK. Where does the battery cable go? Is there another terminal where corrosion could be causing this issue? Thanks. Jeff
January 4, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds to me like a faulty battery cable or connection. I would voltage drop test the cables to the starter and engine. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
KK Comments: Hi Wayne. I'm working on this and in process of removing alternator I broke one of the tiny hoses going into pierburg pa6-gf30 just below that brake booster vacuum connection. That hose goes into some netherworld area deep into ? So I just used a bunch of electrical tape good to 220 degrees F and taped tubing together. Best I can do. Does that seem reasonable?
October 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, you will have to get in there and replace the hose or component it goes to, if broken. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Wed 7/26/2017 02:37:08 AM