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Replacing Your Carpet - Porsche 911 Carrera & Boxster
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing Your Carpet - Porsche 911 Carrera & Boxster

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

Varies

Talent:

*

Tools:

Torx screwdrivers/sockets, Phillips Screwdrivers, hex socket set

Applicable Models:

Porsche 986 Boxster (1997-04)
Porsche 986 Boxster S (2000-04)
Porsche 996 Carrera models (1999-05)
Porsche 996 Turbo, GT2, GT3 (2001-05)

Parts Required:

New or used carpets

Hot Tip:

Cut the carpet in half to make the process easier

Performance Gain:

Weight savings from a clean carpet

Complementary Modification:

New sports seats.

Over time, general wear and tear on your car's carpets can leave them looking a bit worse for wear. Combine this with a clogged drain hole and you can even have water pool up under the carpets, resulting in a mold infestation. This was the case on our own project car. The good news is that replacing the carpet isn't a difficult job, but it does involve removing a number of items from inside the car.

If you have power seats, start out by moving both seats all the way forward. This will allow you to access the Torx bolts that hold the seats down at the rear. Slide the protective covers off the ends of the rails and access the bolts underneath. Once removed, move the seats all the way back to reach the Torx bolts at the front of the seat rails. Now disconnect the battery. You'll be working around a lot of electrical connectors and it makes sense to safeguard against any possible short circuits in the system. If your car has had water pool up in the footwells, don't take chances.

Now, carefully lift the seat up and turn it over so you can access the underside of the seat. You'll see a connector on the bottom that provides power to the seat motors and also the sensors for the seat belt buckles. Use a small screwdriver to pry the cam latch on the connector open. This will separate the two halves of the connector. Additionally, there are two other connectors on the seat. There is a small white harness and a combination black/blue harness. Squeeze the release tabs on the black/blue connector and pull it off. Now move over to the white switch and pry up the black locking tab in the center of the connector. You can now pry the connector up and off.

Now move on to the panel on the driver's side sill plate that contains the release levers for the hood and trunk. You'll need to remove this panel in order to slide the carpet out. You'll see three plastic plugs on the side of the panel. Pull these out and use a long 5mm hex socket to loosen the bolts at the bottom of the holes. It will take a little fishing around to center the tool in the bolt. It's important to remember that you just want to loosen the bolts. Once loose, pull the panel up and off the sill. If you look under the panel, you'll see how the bolts hold it in.

Once the panel is removed, you'll need to disconnect the hood and engine deck lid release cables. There is a small 3mm hex screw that holds each cable loop to the handle. Remove the screws and then carefully pry the lower part of the cable out of the panel. Now unplug the electrical harnesses for the seat memory module.

At the front of the carpet, you'll see the fusebox and also the dead pedal. Pry the cover off the fusebox and remove the small Phillips head screw securing the dead pedal to the front carpet. The bottom of the dead pedal has two plastic fingers that hold it in place. Once the screw is removed, you can lift it up and off the carpet. Move over to the fusebox and remove the four Phillips head screws holding the fusebox panel to the car. Once removed, pull the whole panel out. Now remove the accelerator pedal assembly from the front bulkhead. This is held in place with a single Phillips head screw on the top of the pedal assembly. Removal requires pulling the pedal up about 1/2" then out towards the rear of the car. Keep in mind that on some cars, this comes off very easily and on some cars, it will barely budge. Just keep at it. You can pull the front of the pedal off the ball joint for a little better access to the mounting screw.

Now move to the rear of both sides of the cabin and follow the seatbelt down to the floor where it attaches to the body. You'll see a small plastic cap that cover's the 16mm bolt holding the lower mounting plate to the body. Pry the plastic cap off and remove the bolt. Take care to note the orientation of the spacer and washer behind the mounting plate. You can now pull the carpet up from the floor of the car.

Next, you'll need to remove the trim panel on the passenger side door sill. If you look at the panel, you'll see a small rubber liner at the bottom. Use a pick or screwdriver to remove the liner. Underneath you'll see two screws that hold the panel to the door sill. Remove these and pull the whole panel up and off.

In order to remove the carpet from the top of the center tunnel, you'll also need to remove the center console. Begin by pulling the bolster panels off the sides of the storage bin at the bottom of the dashboard. At the same time, remove the finishing panel at the very bottom as well. Next, pull away the carpet trim that is located on both sides of the console. Remove the screws that hold the center console to the chassis. With the screws disconnected, pull the console up and out of the car. You will have to shift the car into 2nd gear (manual transmissions) or put it in drive (automatic transmissions) in order to gain enough clearance to remove the console.

Now pry up on the shift lever base plate to pop it out of the center console. The plate is a little different on the Tiptronic cars, but it is secured the same way. Next, remove the shift knob. On cars with manual transmissions, some cars use a set screw, and some require you to twist the lower collar 90° and then lift to remove.

On cars with automatic transmissions, you'll need to press the shift button down and insert a small screwdriver in the gap at the bottom of the button. Use the screwdriver to pry the button off the knob but use caution as there is a small spring in there under tension. Once the button and spring are removed, pull the clip off the bottom of the knob and pull the whole knob off.

Now begin to remove the center console. Remove the front retaining screw, located under the shifter boot. Remove the coin tray insert, remove the two screws, unplug and remove window switch assembly, and remove the additional screw found underneath. Pull back the e-brake side cover and remove it. Also remove the rear storage compartment: there is a screw hidden underneath the small rubber mat inside the compartment, and another screw hidden under the small coin holder (three total in the rear). Unplug any remaining harnesses still attached to the console. At this point, you should be able to lift the whole console up and out of the car.

Next, remove the center console support bracket by removing the four 13mm nuts holding it to the center tunnel. On cars with automatic transmissions, you'll need to remove the cable connection for the gear indicator. Squeeze the two clips together at the front of the shifter and remove the cable from the hooks on the gear lever.

With the center console removed, you can now work on disconnecting the cables from the shifter. To remove the cables on cars with manual transmissions, remove the plastic shifter cover, and you will see the cables underneath. Mark the existing position of the cables with a permanent marker so that you can assemble them back together in the same position as when they came apart. Slide the spring-loaded retainers towards the front of the car and release the cable from its holder. Unclip the shift cables from the rear of the shifter housing and place them off to the side. On cars with automatic transmissions, the process is similar, except that there is one cable off to the side of the shifter. It disconnects the same way. Now remove the 10mm mounting nuts that hold the shifter to the floor and lift it up off the center tunnel.

Now move to the rear of the tunnel and remove the 13mm nuts that hold the emergency brake assembly to the center console of the car. Once removed, you can lay the assembly off to the side.

Look at the front section of the carpeting in front of the airbag module. You'll see that the carpeting is split down the middle to help installation. It is held together by two Velcro straps. This slit in the carpet allows you to orient the carpet around the tunnel and out of the car. Pull the Velcro straps apart and begin pulling the carpeting out from underneath the dashboard. You'll notice that the section of carpeting on the right front footwell is glued in place. The glue is just strong enough to where you can easily pull the carpet off with no problems. Now simply work around each corner of the car, pulling up the carpeting from the edges until you can remove it from the car. Take care to route the gear shift cable through the hole in the carpeting. Installation of the new carpet is basically the same as removal. Since the carpeting is molded to fit the inside of the car, you'll find that it's pretty easy to just lay it in and have no problems, although some final adjustments here and there may be needed. Also remember to spray some contact adhesive to the area where the carpet is glued in.

Replacing the rear carpet section that goes over the rear "hump" in the center and also the rear seats involves a bit more work. Begin by pulling the middle and lower seat cushions out of the car. They are just held in place with Velcro. Also pull the black plastic cover off the bottom to the seat belt receptacle so you can access the mounting bolt. The side panels will also need to be removed from the car in order to remove the rear carpeting. These are removed by first prying the plastic cover off the seat belt opening. This pulls straight off towards the front of the car. Also pry off the black trim ring that covers the hole for the rear wind deflector with a small screwdriver (convertible models only). Now remove the two Torx screws holding the speakers in place. Remove the speaker from the side panel and pull off the electrical connections to the speaker. If it isn't already marked (such as with aftermarket speakers) make a note of the polarity of the speaker wires. You'll want to mark the positive and negative wires. If you hook these up backwards, the speakers will be out of phase and will sound a bit odd.

Now look inside the speaker hole. You'll see a small Philips head screw that holds part of the panel to the car. Remove the screw. Lower the upper seats and remove the catch pins on both sides of the car. These have a Torx fitting on the end of them. Now pull the weather stripping off the front of the side panel on each side of the car. At the top of each panel where the seat belt exits, you'll see a small Phillips head screw. Remove the screw and you are ready to remove the panels. You'll want to pull it up first, then carefully pivot it out, using the catch pin location as the pivot point. It will take a bit of effort, but you should be able to get it out with little difficulty.

You'll also need to remove the upper, foldable seats. These are held in place with two 8mm tri-square bolts on either side of the car. They also act as the pivot point for the seat. Hold the seat up to access the bolts. Once removed, Pry up the black plastic cover in the center and remove the small hex bolt underneath. Now lift the seats out of the car. After the seats are removed, remove the two small Phillips head screws that hold the rear panel to bulkhead and remove the panel.

At the bottom of the seats, remove the 16mm bolts holding the seat belt receptacles to the "hump". Pry the black plastic covers off the seat belt attachment points and remove the 16mm bolts underneath. Be sure to note the orientation of the spacer underneath. At this point, you can begin removing the carpet from the bottom of the seats and the "hump". Take your time and carefully pull the carpeting out from behind he door panels. Installation is the reverse of removal, just lay the new carpet in and you'll be good to go.

Move the seat forward as far as it will go to access the ends of each seat rail on the floor.
Figure 1

Move the seat forward as far as it will go to access the ends of each seat rail on the floor. Slide the plastic covers off the ends of the rails (green arrows). Once removed, remove the two Torx bolts underneath (blue arrow).

Now push the seat all the way back to remove the plastic covers over the front mounting bolts and remove them (green arrows).
Figure 2

Now push the seat all the way back to remove the plastic covers over the front mounting bolts and remove them (green arrows). Just like the rear bolts, remove the two Torx bolts underneath (blue arrow, insertPicture). Don't forget to disconnect the battery right after you have unbolted the seats. You just need the battery so that you can move the seats back and forth.

On the underside of the seat, you'll see a black plastic connector.
Figure 3

On the underside of the seat, you'll see a black plastic connector. Use a small screwdriver to carefully push the cam latch (green arrow) in the direction of the yellow arrow. As you push it, it will separate the connector. Now just lift the seat out and set it aside for the time being. (NOTE: Passenger side connector shown, Driver's side is identical).

The driver's side seat contains two additional electrical connections.
Figure 4

The driver's side seat contains two additional electrical connections. Under the seat you will see a white plug (yellow arrow) and a combination black/blue plug (green arrow). Squeeze the tabs on the black/blue plug and pull it up and out of the module on the front of the seat. Use a small screwdriver to carefully pry the black plastic locking tab (blue arrow, insertPicture) in the center of the white plug up. This will allow you to pull the plug off the module.

Pry out the small plastic plugs shown here (green arrows) to access the screws that hold the hood and engine deck lid panel down to the sill.
Figure 5

Pry out the small plastic plugs shown here (green arrows) to access the screws that hold the hood and engine deck lid panel down to the sill. Insert upper left. Use a long 5mm hex socket to reach in and loosen (But do not remove) the screws at the bottom of each hole. It will take a little fishing around to center the tool in the screw.

Now lift up the panel and turn it over.
Figure 6

Now lift up the panel and turn it over. In thisPicture, you can see the two 3mm bolts (green arrows) that hold the hood and deck lid cable ends to the release handles. Remove these two screws and carefully pry the cable ends out of the panel.

Don't forget to also disconnect the two electrical connections on the underside of the panel (green arrows).
Figure 7

Don't forget to also disconnect the two electrical connections on the underside of the panel (green arrows). They simply pull out.

On the passenger side, you'll need to remove the trim panel on the door sill.
Figure 8

On the passenger side, you'll need to remove the trim panel on the door sill. At the bottom of the panel, you'll see a rubber liner. Use a pick or a screwdriver to remove the liner

Under the rubber liner, you'll see two screws.
Figure 9

Under the rubber liner, you'll see two screws. Remove these to lift the whole panel up and off the door sill.

Move to the front of the driver's footwell and pry the cover piece off the fusebox (green arrow).
Figure 10

Move to the front of the driver's footwell and pry the cover piece off the fusebox (green arrow). Also remove the small Phillips head screw holding the dead pedal to the front of the carpet as shown here (yellow arrow).

Remove the four Phillips head screws on the fusebox cover panel (green arrows).
Figure 11

Remove the four Phillips head screws on the fusebox cover panel (green arrows). Remove the entire front fuse box cover and also the dead pedal.

Remove the accelerator pedal assembly from the car by unscrewing the Phillips head screw shown here (green arrow), then pulling the pedal assembly up slightly and then out towards the rear of the car.
Figure 12

Remove the accelerator pedal assembly from the car by unscrewing the Phillips head screw shown here (green arrow), then pulling the pedal assembly up slightly and then out towards the rear of the car.

You can now begin to remove the carpeting from the left (driver's) side footwell of the car by pulling it up along the edges (green arrows).
Figure 13

You can now begin to remove the carpeting from the left (driver's) side footwell of the car by pulling it up along the edges (green arrows).

Follow both driver's and passenger's side sills until you locate the lower mounting point on the seat belt.
Figure 14

Follow both driver's and passenger's side sills until you locate the lower mounting point on the seat belt. You'll see a plastic cap covering the mounting bolt. Pry this cap off and remove the 16mm bolt under the plastic cap (green arrow). Take note of the order that the bolt, plastic washer and spacer go on. Store these parts in a safe place for the time being and note the orientation of the seat belt.

Begin removing the front center console by removing the two side trim panels on either side of the storage box: they simply pull off with a bit of force (green arrows).
Figure 15

Begin removing the front center console by removing the two side trim panels on either side of the storage box: they simply pull off with a bit of force (green arrows). Next, pry out the lower trim panel that holds the switches for the heated seats (blue arrow) and unplug the harness connector going to each switch.

Now remove the remaining storage trays from the front center console.
Figure 16

Now remove the remaining storage trays from the front center console. Next, pull away the carpet trim that is located on both sides of the front console (green arrow).

With the screws disconnected, pull the front center console up and out of the car.
Figure 17

With the screws disconnected, pull the front center console up and out of the car. You will have to shift the car into 2nd gear or put it in drive (Tiptronic transmission shown here) in order to gain enough clearance to remove the console. Pry up on the shift lever base plate (Tiptronic shown here) and carefully pop it out of the center console.

On cars with manual transmissions, some cars use a set screw, and some require you to twist the lower collar 90° and then lift to remove: be careful not to accidentally smack yourself in the face! On cars with automatic transmissions, you'll need to press the shift button down and insert a small screwdriver in the gap at the bottom of the button.
Figure 18

On cars with manual transmissions, some cars use a set screw, and some require you to twist the lower collar 90° and then lift to remove: be careful not to accidentally smack yourself in the face! On cars with automatic transmissions, you'll need to press the shift button down and insert a small screwdriver in the gap at the bottom of the button. Use the screwdriver to pry the button off the knob but use caution as there is a small spring in there under tension. Once the button and spring are removed, pull the clip off the bottom of the knob (green arrow) and pull the whole knob off.

Pull the trim panel off the side of the center console that covers the emergency brake handle (green arrow).
Figure 19

Pull the trim panel off the side of the center console that covers the emergency brake handle (green arrow).

Now remove the ashtray and remove the two small plastic torx screws and expanding sleeves shown here (green arrows).
Figure 20

Now remove the ashtray and remove the two small plastic torx screws and expanding sleeves shown here (green arrows). The sleeves can be pulled out once the screws are removed.

Pull the whole window switch panel up and out of the center console.
Figure 21

Pull the whole window switch panel up and out of the center console. Make a note of which electrical connection goes where and pull the harnesses off the switches (green arrows). Also remove the mounting screw underneath (yellow arrow).

Open the rear storage box and remove the rubber liner at the bottom (green arrow).
Figure 22

Open the rear storage box and remove the rubber liner at the bottom (green arrow). Remove the Torx screw at the bottom of the plate and remove the access plate (under liner, blue arrow).

Remove the coin storage insert (green arrow) by prying it up and off the console.
Figure 23

Remove the coin storage insert (green arrow) by prying it up and off the console. Now remove the Torx screw under the coin storage insert (blue arrows, insertPicture).

Remove the remaining center console retaining screw at the front of the console near the shifter.
Figure 24

Remove the remaining center console retaining screw at the front of the console near the shifter. You can now carefully remove the center console from the car.

Before you can remove the shifter assembly on automatic cars, you'll need to remove the cable connection for the gear indicator.
Figure 25

Before you can remove the shifter assembly on automatic cars, you'll need to remove the cable connection for the gear indicator. Squeeze the two clips together at the front of the shifter (green arrows) and remove the cable from the hooks on the gear lever (purple arrow).

Pull the wiring harness for the window switches out of the clip on the shift housing (green arrow) and remove the black plastic cover (yellow arrow).
Figure 26

Pull the wiring harness for the window switches out of the clip on the shift housing (green arrow) and remove the black plastic cover (yellow arrow).

Now begin to disconnect the shift cables from the gear shift console.
Figure 27

Now begin to disconnect the shift cables from the gear shift console. Remove the metal clips on the ends of the cable stays by pushing them in the direction of the yellow arrows. Once removed, squeeze the plastic tabs (green arrows) and pull up on the cables to remove them from the shifter housing. Make sure to mark the rods with a permanent marker for reassembly later (purple arrow).

At the other end of the shift cables are the grommets that hold them to the gear shift assembly.
Figure 28

At the other end of the shift cables are the grommets that hold them to the gear shift assembly. Use a pair of pliers to squeeze the black plastic tabs (green arrows) on each grommet enough so that you can slide the metal retaining clip off (yellow arrow). Once off, squeeze the tabs again to pull the grommets up and out of the assembly. Now remove the 10mm nuts holding the gear shift assembly to the center tunnel and set it aside.

Note that on cars with automatic transmissions, there is only one shift cable attachment as shown here.
Figure 29

Note that on cars with automatic transmissions, there is only one shift cable attachment as shown here.

Now remove the 13mm nuts holding the parking brake assembly to the center tunnel.
Figure 30

Now remove the 13mm nuts holding the parking brake assembly to the center tunnel. Three of the nuts are readily accessible (green arrows) however one of them (purple arrow) is located directly below the parking brake handle and requires the use of a small wrench to remove it.

Now remove the four 10mm nuts holding the front center console support bracket to the center tunnel (green arrows).
Figure 31

Now remove the four 10mm nuts holding the front center console support bracket to the center tunnel (green arrows).

Now look at the very front section of the carpeting on the center tunnel in front of the airbag module.
Figure 32

Now look at the very front section of the carpeting on the center tunnel in front of the airbag module. You'll see that the carpeting is split down the middle to help installation. It is held together by two Velcro straps (green arrows). Pull the Velcro straps apart and begin pulling the carpeting out from underneath the dashboard (insertPicture).

Here is another shot showing the carpeting being removed from the center tunnel and also the front passenger side footwell.
Figure 33

Here is another shot showing the carpeting being removed from the center tunnel and also the front passenger side footwell. Note the section pointed to by the green arrow. This section of the carpeting is glued in place. The glue is just strong enough that the carpet can easily be peeled off.

And here you can see the carpeting being fully removed from the car.
Figure 34

And here you can see the carpeting being fully removed from the car. Take care to route the shifter cables through the hole on the center tunnel. When installing the new carpet, don't forget to spray a little contact cement on the section of carpet that is glued to the right front footwell.

Replacing the rear carpeting that goes over the
Figure 35

Replacing the rear carpeting that goes over the "hump" in the center and also the rear seats involves a bit more work. Begin by pulling the seat cushions out of the car (green arrow). They are just held in place with Velcro. Now remove the upper cushion (purple arrow). It is also held in place with Velcro. Also pull the black plastic cover off the bottom to the seat belt receptacle (yellow arrow).

The side panels will need to be removed from the car in order to remove the rear carpeting.
Figure 36

The side panels will need to be removed from the car in order to remove the rear carpeting. Begin by first prying the plastic cover off the seat belt opening (green arrow) by pulling it straight off in the direction of the red arrow. Next, pry off the trim ring (yellow arrow) with a small screwdriver. Lastly, remove the two Torx screws holding the speaker into the panel (purple arrows).

Remove the speaker from the side panel and pull off the electrical connections to the speaker (blue arrow, insert upper right).
Figure 37

Remove the speaker from the side panel and pull off the electrical connections to the speaker (blue arrow, insert upper right). Note that thePicture here shows an aftermarket speaker, however the stock speakers are similar. Inside the side panel, remove the small Phillips head screw that holds part of the panel to the car (green arrow).

Pull the weather stripping off the front of the side panel on each side of the car (left side).
Figure 38

Pull the weather stripping off the front of the side panel on each side of the car (left side). Lower the upper seats and remove the catch pins (green arrow, right side) on both sides of the car.

Remove the small Phillips head screw at the top of the side panel near the seat belt hole (yellow arrow).
Figure 39

Remove the small Phillips head screw at the top of the side panel near the seat belt hole (yellow arrow). You are now ready to remove the side panel. You'll want to pull it up first, then carefully pivot it up, using the catch pin location as the pivot point. It will take a bit of effort, but you should be able to get it out with little difficulty.

The bottom of the upper seats uses a bolt and a slider as the pivot point and also as the attachment point (green arrow).
Figure 40

The bottom of the upper seats uses a bolt and a slider as the pivot point and also as the attachment point (green arrow). You'll need a tri-square bit in order to remove these on either side of the car.

There is also one other attachment point for the rear seats in the center of the car.
Figure 41

There is also one other attachment point for the rear seats in the center of the car. Pry up the black plastic cover and remove the small hex bolt underneath (green arrow). Now lift the seats out of the car.

Now remove the two Philips head screws holding the rear panel in place (green arrow).
Figure 42

Now remove the two Philips head screws holding the rear panel in place (green arrow). NOTE: only one screw is shown here, the other side is identical. Remove the 16mm bolts holding the seat belt receptacles to the "hump" (yellow arrow). Pry the black plastic cover off the lower rear seat belt attachment point and remove the 16mm bolt underneath (red arrow). Be sure to note the orientation of the spacer underneath.

Begin removing the rear carpeting by pulling it out of the small pockets and corners underneath the side panels.
Figure 43

Begin removing the rear carpeting by pulling it out of the small pockets and corners underneath the side panels. Shown here is the rear carpeting almost completely removed from the car.

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Comments and Suggestions:
steve Comments: Hello. Are 911/996 interior carpets universal? As in 2002 996 turbo coupemanual into 2002 996 cabriolettiptronic
Which is what I am looking to do.
November 1, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think they will work, 996 to 996 carpet swap. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
GromitInWA Comments: When I removed the door seal, I found that it left a white residue that looks like adhesive or sealant. What should I use when I reattach it?
February 14, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What is the vehicle? May be a flexible strip sealant. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Marty Comments: Hi I am in need of a black carpet for my 996! Just wondering if the 997 uses the same carpet/fitting? I think that the boxster carpet is a little shorter than the 996? Any info would be great thanks!
August 12, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is not the same carpet. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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