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Pelican Technical Article:

Fuel Tank Removal

Steve Vernon

Time:

5 hours5 hrs

Tab:

$900

Talent:

***

Tools:

Philips, Flathead screwdriver, 5mm Allen, 13mm, 10mm, 7mm socket, 19mm, 17mm, 8mm, wrenches, hose clamps,

Applicable Models:

Porsche 993 Carrera (1995-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera 4 (1995-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera 4S (1996-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera S (1998)
Porsche 993 Targa (1996-98)
Porsche 993 Turbo (1996-97)

Parts Required:

Fuel tank and hoses as needed

Hot Tip:

Get a friend to help lift it out

Performance Gain:

Working fuel system

Complementary Modification:

Check all of your fuel hoses

If you are smelling fuel from under the hood you should perform a close inspection of the fuel, expansion tank and hoses. The tank in the 993 is made of plastic and has been known to fail along the seams. This article will show you how to safely drain and remove the fuel tank which even if it is not leaking is necessary to replace your evaporator, or remove the HVAC "suit case".

Things are packed pretty tight in modern Porsches and that includes the 993. One of the important questions you will ask yourself when you start working on your Porsche is: how the heck do they expect me to get at that part without removing this part? The truth of the matter is that a lot of times you do need to move other parts, systems or components out of the way to change something and then re-install them. Lots of first time DIY'ers get frustrated working in really tight spaces or end up damaging something they are not working on just to "save the time" of having to remove other components. If you are going to work on your 993, get in the habit of moving things out of the way and giving yourself all the room you can to work. In the end you will end up saving time and money.

Over the years your car may have been serviced by multiple people including previous owners and this can lead to parts replaced with different size fasteners and hardware. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

You are going to be working with the main electrical control board which houses the main fuse and relay panel.
Figure 1

You are going to be working with the main electrical control board which houses the main fuse and relay panel. Before you begin, you must disconnect the ground strap from the post and the battery and place it where it cannot accidentally come in contact with the post while working (red arrow).

The firewall is located behind the gas tank and in front of the HVAC suit case.
Figure 2

The firewall is located behind the gas tank and in front of the HVAC "suit case". It has a rubber weather sealing gasket along the top of it (red arrow).

Begin by removing the weather seal by simply pulling it up and off (red arrow).
Figure 3

Begin by removing the weather seal by simply pulling it up and off (red arrow).

Use a short Philips head screwdriver and remove the two screws (red arrows) holding the shroud in place and remove the shroud.
Figure 4

Use a short Philips head screwdriver and remove the two screws (red arrows) holding the shroud in place and remove the shroud.

Remove the electrical connection for the blower motor regulator by squeezing in the clips and pulling it up (yellow arrows) then gently pry the wiring harness connector from the back of the regulator (red arrow).
Figure 5

Remove the electrical connection for the blower motor regulator by squeezing in the clips and pulling it up (yellow arrows) then gently pry the wiring harness connector from the back of the regulator (red arrow). The regulator is attached to the heat sink plate and this is mounted to the firewall. It will come out with the firewall.

With the weather stripping off the firewall (red arrow) use a Philips head screwdriver and remove the three screws (yellow arrows) and remove the corner plate between the control panel housing and fender.
Figure 6

With the weather stripping off the firewall (red arrow) use a Philips head screwdriver and remove the three screws (yellow arrows) and remove the corner plate between the control panel housing and fender.

Unscrew the plastic retaining knob in the upper corner (red arrow).
Figure 7

Unscrew the plastic retaining knob in the upper corner (red arrow).

Using a 5mm Allen remove the single bolt in the front corner.
Figure 8

Using a 5mm Allen remove the single bolt in the front corner.

Do not lose the plastic shim that goes between the panel and housing.
Figure 9

Do not lose the plastic shim that goes between the panel and housing.

You can now lift the panel, fuses, and relays and wiring harness up and out from the housing.
Figure 10

You can now lift the panel, fuses, and relays and wiring harness up and out from the housing. Place a shop towel down between the panel and fender and tie the panel out of the way.

You're now looking at the fuse panel housing which is attached to the fire wall (red arrow) and the fuel expansion tank (yellow arrow); you do not need to remove the expansion tank to remove the firewall.
Figure 11

You're now looking at the fuse panel housing which is attached to the fire wall (red arrow) and the fuel expansion tank (yellow arrow); you do not need to remove the expansion tank to remove the firewall.

Use a 10mm socket or wrench and remove the bolt holding the bottom of the fuse panel housing to the chassis (red arrow).
Figure 12

Use a 10mm socket or wrench and remove the bolt holding the bottom of the fuse panel housing to the chassis (red arrow).

Next use a Philips head screwdriver and remove the screws holding the housing to the inside of the fender.
Figure 13

Next use a Philips head screwdriver and remove the screws holding the housing to the inside of the fender.

Move to the left side of the firewall and remove the top two Philips head screws and loosen the lower one.
Figure 14

Move to the left side of the firewall and remove the top two Philips head screws and loosen the lower one.

It is a tight fit and having a Philips head ratchet really helps.
Figure 15

It is a tight fit and having a Philips head ratchet really helps.

With the top two screws removed and the lower screw loosened you can remove the plate that allows you to remove the firewall without completely removing the lower screw.
Figure 16

With the top two screws removed and the lower screw loosened you can remove the plate that allows you to remove the firewall without completely removing the lower screw.

If this is the first time you have done this, it is a really good idea to get a friend to help you lift it out.
Figure 17

If this is the first time you have done this, it is a really good idea to get a friend to help you lift it out. Even though the piece is not heavy, you do not want to scratch anything. It lifts straight up and out (red arrow).

Open the fuel filler cap to help break the vacuum seal in the tank.
Figure 18

Open the fuel filler cap to help break the vacuum seal in the tank.

The fuel pump panel is held in place by a series of 10mm nuts and bolts (red arrows).
Figure 19

The fuel pump panel is held in place by a series of 10mm nuts and bolts (red arrows). It can be removed without removing any of the other panels.

With the hardware removed, tilt the panel down and pull it back and out from the front panel.
Figure 20

With the hardware removed, tilt the panel down and pull it back and out from the front panel.

You now have access to the fuel pump, lines and mount (red arrow) without removing any other panels.
Figure 21

You now have access to the fuel pump, lines and mount (red arrow) without removing any other panels. It a tight fit in there so be glad you raised the car as high as you safely could.

The pump is covered in a rubber sound deadening protector and is mounted to the bracket with a large hose clamp.
Figure 22

The pump is covered in a rubber sound deadening protector and is mounted to the bracket with a large hose clamp. You will need to remove the three 10mm bolts holding the bracket in place. These bolts have rubber isolators and washers so take care when removing them and do not lose any parts.

Move the fuel lines and slip the pump up into the body of the opening until the wiring and banjo clear the body work and then lower that end first.
Figure 23

Move the fuel lines and slip the pump up into the body of the opening until the wiring and banjo clear the body work and then lower that end first.

Clamp off the hose from the tank to the fuel pump and separate the hose from the pump (red arrow); be prepared as some fuel will spill out form the pump and lines.
Figure 24

Clamp off the hose from the tank to the fuel pump and separate the hose from the pump (red arrow); be prepared as some fuel will spill out form the pump and lines. Once you have the pump clear you can drain the fuel out from the tank into an appropriate container to be stored and poured back into the tank later.

You will need to use a 19mm wrench and hold the fitting on the line going to the tank (red arrow) while you use a 17mm wrench and disconnect the return line (yellow arrow).
Figure 25

You will need to use a 19mm wrench and hold the fitting on the line going to the tank (red arrow) while you use a 17mm wrench and disconnect the return line (yellow arrow). Fuel will spill out from this line so be prepared.

Working back under the hood, remove the electrical connector from the fuel sending unit by pulling it straight up and off.
Figure 26

Working back under the hood, remove the electrical connector from the fuel sending unit by pulling it straight up and off.

Disconnect the fill and vent lines by the fuel filler area (red arrow) using a 7mm socket.
Figure 27

Disconnect the fill and vent lines by the fuel filler area (red arrow) using a 7mm socket. Twist the lines off from the plastic tubes.

There is a ground wire connected to the hose clamp on the fill hose (red arrow) remove this and don't forget to re-install it when you are hooking everything up.
Figure 28

There is a ground wire connected to the hose clamp on the fill hose (red arrow) remove this and don't forget to re-install it when you are hooking everything up.

Use a 13mm socket and remove the hold down bolt on the fuel tank strap (red arrow).
Figure 29

Use a 13mm socket and remove the hold down bolt on the fuel tank strap (red arrow).

Lift the strap and remove the plastic cover on the lower section of the tank.
Figure 30

Lift the strap and remove the plastic cover on the lower section of the tank. Do not lose this and do not forget to re-install it when installing the new tank. This is a critical piece and must not be over looked.

Tilt the tank forward and disconnect the rollover valve line form the back of the tank (red arrow).
Figure 31

Tilt the tank forward and disconnect the rollover valve line form the back of the tank (red arrow).

You can now safely lift the tank out from the vehicle, the tank once empty is not heavy at all and can easily be lifted out by one adult.
Figure 32

You can now safely lift the tank out from the vehicle, the tank once empty is not heavy at all and can easily be lifted out by one adult. Installation is the reverse of removal.


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Page last updated: Fri 12/15/2017 03:12:48 AM