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Front Blower Motors Replacement
 

Pelican Technical Article:

Front Blower Motors Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

4 hours4 hrs

Tab:

$200 to $2,000

Talent:

***

Tools:

Short Philips head screwdriver, long flathead screwdriver, 8mm wrench, 10mm socket, 5mm Allen, T20 Torx, magnet

Applicable Models:

Porsche 993 Carrera (1995-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera 4 (1995-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera 4S (1996-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera S (1998)
Porsche 993 Targa (1996-98)
Porsche 993 Turbo (1996-97)

Parts Required:

Blower motors

Hot Tip:

The motors are not inter-changeable side to side

Performance Gain:

Working HVAC

Complementary Modification:

Change cabin air filters

The first sign that your blower motors are starting to go bad is usually a squeaking sound coming from them when they start up. As the bearings continue to fail, this will eventually turn into a continuous squealing sound anytime they are running. The motors will not heal themselves and yes they are a bit of a pain to replace (not to mention the cost) but they need to be done. These step by step instructions will walk you through it.

The nice thing is that there is now a "lower cost" alternative to the genuine Porsche fans. You have cost options. Also, please be aware that the fans are not inter-changeable from side to side, so make sure you order the proper one.

Over the years your car may have been serviced by multiple people including previous owners and this can lead to parts replaced with different size fasteners and hardware. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

You are going to be working on the electrical system on your 993.
Figure 1

You are going to be working on the electrical system on your 993. This includes moving the fuse/relay panel. Before you begin, make sure you disconnect the batteries ground cable and place it somewhere where it cannot accidentally come in contact with the post while you are working (red arrow).

Begin by opening the hood.
Figure 2

Begin by opening the hood. The two cabin blower motors are located under covers on each side under the A-pillars (red arrows).

Pull up and remove the rubber seal on the firewall (red arrow).
Figure 3

Pull up and remove the rubber seal on the firewall (red arrow).

Remove the two Philips head screws (red arrows) and lift the shroud cover up and out.
Figure 4

Remove the two Philips head screws (red arrows) and lift the shroud cover up and out.

With the carpet out of the way release the two clips (red arrows) and remove the lid.
Figure 5

With the carpet out of the way release the two clips (red arrows) and remove the lid.

With the weather stripping removed from the firewall (red arrow), use a Philips head screwdriver and remove the three screws and (yellow arrow) and remove the corner plate between the control panel housing and fender.
Figure 6

With the weather stripping removed from the firewall (red arrow), use a Philips head screwdriver and remove the three screws and (yellow arrow) and remove the corner plate between the control panel housing and fender.

Unscrew the plastic retaining knob in the upper corner (red arrow).
Figure 7

Unscrew the plastic retaining knob in the upper corner (red arrow).

Using a 5mm Allen remove the single bolt in the front corner.
Figure 8

Using a 5mm Allen remove the single bolt in the front corner.

Do not lose the plastic shim that goes between the panel and housing.
Figure 9

Do not lose the plastic shim that goes between the panel and housing.

You can now lift the panel, fuses, relays and wiring harness up and out from the housing.
Figure 10

You can now lift the panel, fuses, relays and wiring harness up and out from the housing. Place a shop towel down between the panel and fender and tie the panel off out of the way while you work.

You're now looking at the fuse panel housing which is attached to the fire wall (red arrow) and the fuel expansion tank (yellow arrow); let's start with the firewall as you need to remove it to access the blower motors.
Figure 11

You're now looking at the fuse panel housing which is attached to the fire wall (red arrow) and the fuel expansion tank (yellow arrow); let's start with the firewall as you need to remove it to access the blower motors.

Use a 10mm socket or wrench and remove the bolt holding the bottom of the fuse panel housing to the chassis (red arrow).
Figure 12

Use a 10mm socket or wrench and remove the bolt holding the bottom of the fuse panel housing to the chassis (red arrow).

Next use a Philips head screwdriver and remove the screws holding the housing to the inside of the fender.
Figure 13

Next use a Philips head screwdriver and remove the screws holding the housing to the inside of the fender.

Move to the left side of the firewall and remove the top two Philips head screws and loosen the lower one.
Figure 14

Move to the left side of the firewall and remove the top two Philips head screws and loosen the lower one.

It is a tight fit and having a Philips head ratchet really helps.
Figure 15

It is a tight fit and having a Philips head ratchet really helps.

With the top two screws removed and the lower screw loosened you can remove the plate that allows you to remove the firewall without completely removing the lower screw.
Figure 16

With the top two screws removed and the lower screw loosened you can remove the plate that allows you to remove the firewall without completely removing the lower screw.

Remove the connection to the blower motor regulator by squeezing in the clips on the connector and pulling it straight up and out from the regulator (yellow arrows).
Figure 17

Remove the connection to the blower motor regulator by squeezing in the clips on the connector and pulling it straight up and out from the regulator (yellow arrows). Next, gently pry the harness clip out as well (red arrow). The regulator will stay attached to the firewall and come out with it.

If this is the first time you have done this, it is a really good idea to get a friend to help you lift it out.
Figure 18

If this is the first time you have done this, it is a really good idea to get a friend to help you lift it out. Even though the piece is not heavy you do not want to scratch anything. It lifts straight up and out (red arrow).

Next you remove the fuel expansion tank (please see our article for additional information) but leave the rollover valve in place (red arrow).
Figure 19

Next you remove the fuel expansion tank (please see our article for additional information) but leave the rollover valve in place (red arrow). You can now access the blower motor housing and will need to remove the air liters (red arrows). The pictures will show the filter lids and filters being replaced with the firewall in place as it doesn't really matter which order you do it in. I find it easier to remove the firewall first, it gives you more room.

The right side air filter housing (red arrow) has an electrical connection on it.
Figure 20

The right side air filter housing (red arrow) has an electrical connection on it.

The left side cover has a clip that holds the wiring harness in place on all years but the clip was only added to the right side cover in 1996 and forward.
Figure 21

The left side cover has a clip that holds the wiring harness in place on all years but the clip was only added to the right side cover in 1996 and forward.

If you are working on the right side cover, begin by pulling the electrical connection apart (red arrow).
Figure 22

If you are working on the right side cover, begin by pulling the electrical connection apart (red arrow).

Lift the wiring harness out from the area on the top of the cover (red arrow) and set it out of the way.
Figure 23

Lift the wiring harness out from the area on the top of the cover (red arrow) and set it out of the way.

Use a long flathead screw driver and gently pry the clip away from where it connects to the lower section of the housing (red arrow).
Figure 24

Use a long flathead screw driver and gently pry the clip away from where it connects to the lower section of the housing (red arrow).

Use an 8mm wrench and remove the single screw on the top of the housing (red arrow).
Figure 25

Use an 8mm wrench and remove the single screw on the top of the housing (red arrow).

You can now lift the cover straight up and off the housing.
Figure 26

You can now lift the cover straight up and off the housing.

Removing the old filter is a simple as lifting it straight up and out.
Figure 27

Removing the old filter is a simple as lifting it straight up and out.

There are two cut outs in the hamster wheel or fan that needed to be lined up so you can remove the two T20 Torx screws helping hold the fan and motor in place (red arrows).
Figure 28

There are two cut outs in the hamster wheel or fan that needed to be lined up so you can remove the two T20 Torx screws helping hold the fan and motor in place (red arrows). Have a magnet ready as these screws a small and can drop easily.

With the Torx screws removed you can remove the fan and motor from the housing.
Figure 29

With the Torx screws removed you can remove the fan and motor from the housing. Porsche makes an expensive tool to do this but you can easily do it with a long flathead screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the slot on the top of the fan until the plastic clip that holds in in place releases and gently pull the top of the fan forward, then without letting the top of the motors clips re-engage do the same on the bottom clip (red arrows).

With both released the fan and motor will easily come out.
Figure 30

With both released the fan and motor will easily come out. Gently pull the motor and wiring forward.

This phot illustrates the plastic clips that hold the motor and fan in place (red arrow).
Figure 31

This phot illustrates the plastic clips that hold the motor and fan in place (red arrow).

Turn the motor over without stressing the wiring and remove the harness from the grommet (red arrow) and disconnect the wiring (yellow arrows).
Figure 32

Turn the motor over without stressing the wiring and remove the harness from the grommet (red arrow) and disconnect the wiring (yellow arrows). Installation is the reverse of removal. Remember that the motors are not inter-changeable between sides. Take care not to pinch the wiring when placing them back in. It is also important that you DO NOT test the fans function before plugging in in all of the connections you have separated or you will throw error lights. If you are going to test, be very careful that the electrical panel is in a safe position to do so.

When you install the new filter it is important that it sits correctly in the grooves in the housing (red arrows) with the plastic tap that fits into the cover pointing straight up (yellow arrow).
Figure 33

When you install the new filter it is important that it sits correctly in the grooves in the housing (red arrows) with the plastic tap that fits into the cover pointing straight up (yellow arrow). If the filter is not sitting correctly it can make contact with the fan which can cause the fuse to blow and a trouble light to activate.


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Page last updated: Sun 12/17/2017 03:11:24 AM