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Pelican Technical Article:

Oil Cooler Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

4 hours4 hrs

Tab:

$370 to $1,000

Talent:

***

Tools:

32mm wrench or Crowfoot (2), 15mm, 10mm, 5.5mm socket, Philips screwdriver, trim removal tool

Applicable Models:

Porsche 993 Carrera (1995-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera 4 (1995-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera 4S (1996-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera S (1998)
Porsche 993 Targa (1996-98)
Porsche 993 Turbo (1996-97)

Parts Required:

Oil cooler, oil

Hot Tip:

Get a friend to help break the lines loose

Performance Gain:

Proper oil cooling

Complementary Modification:

Change your oil and filter

The Porsche 993 has an oil cooled engine and part of that cooling system is a forward mounted oil cooler. This cooler is in the front right wheel well just behind the bumper. The cooler is hidden from view and well protected from road debris but if you start to notice a couple of drops of oil coming from under the right front fender you need to inspect the cooler and lines right away. Oil drops can be a sign of a leaking line or damage to the cooler. If it is dripping while parked in your garage there is a very good chance it is leaking more while the motor is running and the cooler is under pressure.

You will need to remove the forward right wheel well liner and lower tray to access the cooler. While some people say you can remove the liner and replace the cooler with the wheels on, I recommend you safely lift and support the front of the vehicle. Please see our article on safely lifting and supporting your Porsche 993 for additional instructions. This is going to be a longer job and having more room to work is going to come in handy; especially when break loose the oil lines. Speaking of which, it is a good idea to have a friend around when it comes time to break the lines loose and install the new cooler. You will need to support the cooler with one wrench and break the lines free with the other and the fittings are made from aluminum and can be easily damaged.

To remove the forward liner; begin by removing the Philip head screws including the three that joins the liners on the top (red arrows).
Figure 1

To remove the forward liner; begin by removing the Philip head screws including the three that joins the liners on the top (red arrows).

Working under the vehicle remove the two 10mm plastic nuts holding the liner to the forward protection tray (red arrows).
Figure 2

Working under the vehicle remove the two 10mm plastic nuts holding the liner to the forward protection tray (red arrows).

There are two pieces of weather stripping on the forward liner (red arrows).
Figure 3

There are two pieces of weather stripping on the forward liner (red arrows). Once the liner is removed this is a good time to clean these out and get some rubber protectant on them.

You need to remove the liner from the wheel arch as this makes it easier to get off the air duct on the inner fender well.
Figure 4

You need to remove the liner from the wheel arch as this makes it easier to get off the air duct on the inner fender well.

Remove the lower tray by unscrewing the three Philips head screws (red arrows).
Figure 5

Remove the lower tray by unscrewing the three Philips head screws (red arrows).

Slide the tray forward using a trim removal tool to help release the plastic tabs holding it in place (red arrows).
Figure 6

Slide the tray forward using a trim removal tool to help release the plastic tabs holding it in place (red arrows).

Remove the drain tube from the fan and place it up out of the way.
Figure 7

Remove the drain tube from the fan and place it up out of the way.

Unplug the electrical connection for the fan by pulling it straight up (red arrow).
Figure 8

Unplug the electrical connection for the fan by pulling it straight up (red arrow).

Use a 10mm socket and remove the four nuts holding the fan to the cooler (red arrows), you will need a short extension for the front upper nut.
Figure 9

Use a 10mm socket and remove the four nuts holding the fan to the cooler (red arrows), you will need a short extension for the front upper nut.

Working at the front, remove the weather stripping on the lower piece (red arrow) and gently push back the plastic surround to bet the fan off the cooler.
Figure 10

Working at the front, remove the weather stripping on the lower piece (red arrow) and gently push back the plastic surround to bet the fan off the cooler.

You can now remove the fan and its housing from the cooler.
Figure 11

You can now remove the fan and its housing from the cooler.

Disconnect the wiring for the cooler temperature sensor by squeezing down on the wire and pulling them apart (red arrow).
Figure 12

Disconnect the wiring for the cooler temperature sensor by squeezing down on the wire and pulling them apart (red arrow). You are going to want to transfer the temperature sensor to the new cooler. If you are working by yourself, you may want to break the oil lines loose now while the cooler is still attached to the chassis but it is a really tight fit, especially with the forward line. You will need two 32mm wrenches or a wrench and crowfoot. Support the nut on the cooler and break the nut on the line loose (yellow arrows).

Use a 5.
Figure 13

Use a 5.5mm socket and remove the three bolts holding the deflection plate to the cooler (red arrow) and remove the plate.

If you are working by yourself you may want to break the oil lines loose now while the cooler is still attached to the chassis but it is a really tight fit, especially with the forward line.
Figure 14

If you are working by yourself you may want to break the oil lines loose now while the cooler is still attached to the chassis but it is a really tight fit, especially with the forward line. You will need two 32mm wrenches or a wrench and crowfoot. Use a 15mm socket and remove the three nuts for the oil cooler tray (red arrows) and the 10mm nut on the upper bracket (yellow arrow). Oil is going to come from the lines and cooler so be prepared to catch it and dispose of it properly. Remove the cooler and bracket from the chassis.

Slip the tray off the bottom of the cooler by pulling it out from the two rubber grommets it sits in.
Figure 15

Slip the tray off the bottom of the cooler by pulling it out from the two rubber grommets it sits in. You will want to transfer the rubber grommets and upper mount from the old cooler to the new one.

Make sure to use two 32mm wrenches or a crowfoot and you do not want to round or strip these fittings.
Figure 16

Make sure to use two 32mm wrenches or a crowfoot and you do not want to round or strip these fittings.

With everything removed get a friend to hold the cooler while you now break the lines loose (yellow arrow).
Figure 17

With everything removed get a friend to hold the cooler while you now break the lines loose (yellow arrow). Oil will spill out so be prepared to catch it and dispose of it in accordance with the regulations in your area. Installation is the reverse and do not forget to top up for the missing oil that was in the old cooler. Some people like to prefill the cooler with clean oil before installing it.

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Page last updated: Tue 4/25/2017 03:11:53 AM