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Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

30 minutes30 mins

Tab:

$170

Talent:

**

Tools:

22mm, 19mm wrench, flathead screwdriver

Applicable Models:

Porsche 993 Carrera (1995-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera 4 (1995-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera 4S (1996-98)
Porsche 993 Carrera S (1998)
Porsche 993 Targa (1996-98)
Porsche 993 Turbo (1996-97)

Parts Required:

Pressure regulator

Hot Tip:

Work on a cold engine

Performance Gain:

Car runs like normal again

Complementary Modification:

Replace fuel injectors

Fuel pressure regulators are an occasional source of frustration for the do-it-yourselfer. Sometimes, they don't show any obvious indication of failure, leaving you puzzled when your car stumbles on acceleration. Testing a regulator can be a bit difficult as sometimes the fault won't appear until the car has reached a certain temperature.

The first step in diagnosis is to go over the basics. Is the fuel pump operating? Is the fuel filter clogged? Is there actually any fuel in the vehicle? Believe it or not, many people overlook these steps. The fuel pressure regulators for the 993s are not cheap so before you change yours out make sure it is faulty and check the fuel pressures. Please see our article on fuel pressure testing for additional assistance.

Be prepared: Work in a well ventilated area. Keep a fire extinguisher near you at all times and know how to use it correctly. No sparks or open flame around and if you smoke now would be a really good time to quit: at least for the half hour it might take you to perform this job.

Just as with the fuel filter, injectors, or any other component of the fuel system, it's best to relieve the fuel system of any pressure before you go opening it up. You can do this by opening the fuel filler cap and/or removing the fuel pump fuse from the car's fuse panel and then starting the car and allowing it to idle until it runs out of fuel. Also, be sure to use some protective gloves and goggles whenever you're working with fuel.

Some fuel will spill out no matter what you do so be prepared to catch it with some rags and dispose of the rags in accordance with the regulations in your area. Never store fuel soaked rags anywhere; they are very dangerous.

Before you begin working on the fuel system you want to de-pressurize it.
Figure 1

Before you begin working on the fuel system you want to de-pressurize it. The best way to do this is to remove the fuel pump and oxygen sensor fuse from the fuse box in the front trunk and then start the engine and let it run out of fuel. Open the front trunk and pull back the carpeting closest to the windshield. The fuse box is on the right side. Remove the cover and check your owner's manual to determine the right fuse. On our 1995 it was fuse number 26. The panel is set up so fuses 1-15 run along the side and fuses 16-41 run along the top. There is a fuse puller and spare fuses in the box (red arrow). Do not remove the DME relay as this will not allow the engine to run and you will not be burning off the fuel in the system. Remove the fuel pump fuse and run the motor until it stalls.

Move to the engine compartment; if you started with the motor cold it should not have gotten very warn while burning off the fuel and by the time you get access to the regulator it should be cool; if it is not wait until the motor is cool before working on the fuel system.
Figure 2

Move to the engine compartment; if you started with the motor cold it should not have gotten very warn while burning off the fuel and by the time you get access to the regulator it should be cool; if it is not wait until the motor is cool before working on the fuel system. The regulator is below the blower motor (red arrow, cannot be seen).

Please see our articles on removing a Varioram and non-Varioram blower motor and assembly.
Figure 3

Please see our articles on removing a Varioram and non-Varioram blower motor and assembly.

With the blower removed you can see the regulator on the left side fuel rail (red arrow).
Figure 4

With the blower removed you can see the regulator on the left side fuel rail (red arrow).

Use a 22mm wrench to support the regulator housing (red arrow) and a 19mm wrench to break open and remove the fuel line fitting (yellow arrow).
Figure 5

Use a 22mm wrench to support the regulator housing (red arrow) and a 19mm wrench to break open and remove the fuel line fitting (yellow arrow). Even though you have run the system dry there will still be fuel that comes out of the line and regulator, be prepared with a rag to catch it and dispose of it in accordance with the regulations in your region.

Separate the vacuum line (red arrow) from the nipple on the regulator (yellow arrow).
Figure 6

Separate the vacuum line (red arrow) from the nipple on the regulator (yellow arrow).

Use a flathead screwdriver and pull the clip out from the housing that holds the regulator in place.
Figure 7

Use a flathead screwdriver and pull the clip out from the housing that holds the regulator in place.

Carefully remove the regulator from the housing.
Figure 8

Carefully remove the regulator from the housing. Do not pry it out using the housing as leverage. The housing is part of the fuel rail and made from surprisingly soft metal and if you damage it you will need to replace the rail. Again even though you have drained the system be prepared for a little fuel to escape. Apply a very small amount of white Lithium grease to the O-ring (red arrow) and install the new regulator. Installation is the reverse of removal. The vehicle may run a little rough when you first restart it as it clears the air from the system and be sure to check for leaks before you reinstall the blower motor and assembly.








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