Pelican Parts
Porsche Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog Porsche How To Articles Porsche Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
View Recent Cars  |Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help
 >  >
EBS Racing Oil Baffle Replacement
 

Pelican Technical Article:

EBS Racing Oil Baffle Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$225

Talent:

***

Tools:

T25 Torx, 10mm socket, 8mm Allen, E10 Torx, 10mm Hex, large pan, cleaner

Applicable Models:

Porsche 986 Boxster (1997-04)
Porsche 986 Boxster S (2000-04)
Porsche 987 Boxster (2005-08)
Porsche 987 Boxster S (2005-08)
Porsche 987 Cayman (2007-08)
Porsche 987 Cayman S (2006-08)
Porsche 996 Carrera models (1999-05)
Porsche 997 Carrera models (2005-08)

Parts Required:

EBS oil baffle kit, oil

Hot Tip:

Warn up the oil before you drain it

Performance Gain:

No oil starvation issues

Complementary Modification:

Oil and filter

Unlike the older Porsche's that had a true dry sump system, the newer water cooled cars have a wet sump (with the exception of the Metzger motor in the turbos). This means that the oil pump picks up the oil that is pressurized and used for lubrication and cooling from the sump pan on the bottom of the motor. While this system is fine and has been used for decades in all types of engines, it can be prone to problems when used under severe circumstances: like a race track. The main problem with the wet system on the water cooled engines is oil starvation issues under race like loads. This means that while you are flinging your car around corners the oil is also moving around in the bottom of the sump which can lead to not enough oil in the pump pickup area. While there is a very good baffle in the sump on these engines to prevent this, there have been issues with oil starvation on some track cars. To help avoid this issue EBS Racing has developed a new baffle insert based around the one Porsche uses in the X51 optioned cars.

EBS Racing's Oil Sump Baffle is designed to fit all Boxster/996/997 M96/97 type engines. It expands on the factory X51 design and features all stainless construction with metal doors that will not distort or deteriorate over time. This helps to ensure that more oil stays around the main oil pickup. This kit includes the baffle, three 10mm bolts to attach the baffle to the existing oil pan, blue Loctite for the three bolts and Loctite 5900 to seal the pan to the engine case. There are two different baffles available; the one for the regular sump and one for the deep sump kit--make sure to confirm yours when ordering.

Installation is not difficult and can be done in an afternoon. You are going to be working under the vehicle so please see our article on how to safely lift and support your vehicle. Give yourself as much room to work as possible as you are going to be removing the sump pan and baffle. Make sure to warm the motor before draining the oil.

The kit comes complete with everything you need to install it including the stainless steel baffle, blue thread locker, three E10bolts and a tube of Loctite 5900.
Figure 1

The kit comes complete with everything you need to install it including the stainless steel baffle, blue thread locker, three E10bolts and a tube of Loctite 5900. Do NOT remove the rubber compound on the edges of the baffle (red arrow) these are not on for shipping purposes--they help seal the baffle to the pan and case.

Remove the under tray at the rear by removing the four T25 Torx screws (red arrows) and the two 10mm screws (yellow arrows) and lower the tray.
Figure 2

Remove the under tray at the rear by removing the four T25 Torx screws (red arrows) and the two 10mm screws (yellow arrows) and lower the tray.

Make sure that you have warmed the engine before you drain the oil and remove the sump plate, the plate will release from the case easier if it is warm.
Figure 3

Make sure that you have warmed the engine before you drain the oil and remove the sump plate, the plate will release from the case easier if it is warm. Use an 8mm Allen and drain the oil

Next use an E10 or 10mm Hex depending on the hardware on your engine and remove the bolts holding the sump plate in place.
Figure 4

Next use an E10 or 10mm Hex depending on the hardware on your engine and remove the bolts holding the sump plate in place. Use care as there will still be oil in the bottom of the pan.

There is a very good chance that the pan will be stuck to the block with the sealant; there are two places that were designed to help pry the pan off (red arrows).
Figure 5

There is a very good chance that the pan will be stuck to the block with the sealant; there are two places that were designed to help pry the pan off (red arrows). Never stick anything between the two mounting surfaces of the pan and case--you can mar it and it will never seal correctly. Gently pry the pan off at the approved areas and be prepared to catch the remaining oil.

Lower the sump pan with the plastic baffle attached (red arrow).
Figure 6

Lower the sump pan with the plastic baffle attached (red arrow).

Carefully clean the mounting surface on the case (yellow arrow).
Figure 7

Carefully clean the mounting surface on the case (yellow arrow). Do not use anything metal or that could mar or damage the flat surface. Make sure to check and clean the pick-up screen on the oil pump pick-up (red arrow). Our pick up had a fair amount of sealant in it from the last installation.

This picture illustrates the sump pan with the old plastic baffle installed and the new EBS Racing baffle beside it.
Figure 8

This picture illustrates the sump pan with the old plastic baffle installed and the new EBS Racing baffle beside it. The EBS baffle does a better job of sealing in the oil around the pick-up area and gives a larger area to hold oil.

Use an E10 socket and remove the three bolts holding the baffle n place.
Figure 9

Use an E10 socket and remove the three bolts holding the baffle n place.

Before installing the new baffle carefully clean the mounting surface on the pan (red arrow) using care not to mar or damage the flat surface.
Figure 10

Before installing the new baffle carefully clean the mounting surface on the pan (red arrow) using care not to mar or damage the flat surface. Install the new baffle over the existing holes and do NOT remove the rubber from around the edges (yellow arrow).

Apply a small amount of the provided threat locker and install the three 10mm bolts securing the baffle to the pan.
Figure 11

Apply a small amount of the provided threat locker and install the three 10mm bolts securing the baffle to the pan.

Apply a small bead of Loctite 5900.
Figure 12

Apply a small bead of Loctite 5900. This bead should be around 1.5mm. You do not want to use too much sealant as it will just spill over the lip and into the sump where it can be picked up by the oil pump and work its way into all kinds of places you do not want it. When you are finished with the Loctite make sure to seal the tube up well and store it, this is a great sealant and VERY expensive!

While the sealant is still wet install the pan with the new baffle into the case.
Figure 13

While the sealant is still wet install the pan with the new baffle into the case. It will be a tight fit as the baffle is designed to tight tolerances to seal the areas between it and the case. Installation from here is the reverse of removal and do not forget to add oil!


QUICK LINKS
About Us
Careers
Pelican Parts, LLC
1600 240th Street
Harbor City, CA 90710
Order Online or Call:
888-280-7799
CONNECT WITH US
NEWSLETTER
Sign Up for Pelican Pit Stop News & Special Offers
Page last updated: Sun 12/10/2017 03:11:38 AM