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HomeTech Articles > Porsche Dashboard Gauge Repair and Refurbishment

Pelican Technical Article:

Porsche Dashboard Gauge
Repair and Refurbishment

Difficulty Level 3-4

Difficulty scale:
Adding air to your tires is level one
Rebuilding a 911 Motor is level ten


[Click on Photo]

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Figure 1: Standard 3 Gauge Set on the 914

Introduction 

     Many Porsche owners have had problems with the gauges that are located in the dashboard of their cars.  This Pelican tech article will provide some hints and tips on the following topics related to the VDO gauges found in almost all Porsches:

  • Gauge Face Replacement & Refurbishment
  • Odometer Repair
  • Speedometer Calibration and Check
  • Speedometer Recalibration for Different Tires
  • Temp/Oil/Gas Module Replacement & Substitution

     The VDO gauges used in all the early Porsches have very similar construction and design.  Therefore, the 356, 911, 914, and other Porsche (and VW, and BMW) gauges are often very similar.  Figure 1 shows some typical gauges from a 914.   Unfortunately, the problems that occur with these gauges are also often common with many Porsche cars.  Although there are many different types of these gauges, this article will attempt to be as broad as possible, in the hope that much of the information and pictures provided can be used on many gauges from many different cars.

 

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Figure 2: Scratched Plastic Face

Gauge Face Refurbishment

     Some of the later cars (later 914s, for example) have plastic gauge faces used on all the gauges.  Over the life of the car, these can easily be scratched and dulled, as seen in Figure 2.   The solution for this problem is to replace the faces with older glass ones.   These can be cleaned with minimal scratching and they look much better in general.   Pelican Parts can provide you with all the glass faces that you need for your gauge refurbishment.  The difference is absolutely remarkable, and it's also an improvement that you will notice every day you drive your car.

     All of the VDO Porsche gauges have faces that are attached with a ring that is bent and wrapped around the outer edge of the gauge.  The factory must have a pretty good tool for performing this, because the seal is both real good and also very smooth.  Any modifications or repair to the gauges requires the removal of this ring.

 

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Figure 3: Removing Outer Retaining Ring

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Figure 4: Removing Outer Ring and Face

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Figure 5: Tachometer with Front Face Removed

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Figure 6: Using Magic Marker on Rim of Gauge

     The removal procedure must be performed very carefully, otherwise the edge of your gauge will look like your dog has chewed on it.  To remove the outer ring, place a small screwdriver in-between the side of the gauge and the retaining ring.  Gently push out with the screw driver and pry a small section of the ring away from the wall. This is shown in Figure 3.  Repeat this process until you have pushed the retaining ring out from a little more than half of the gauge.  At this point, you should be able to remove this retaining ring by pulling on the ring, or by prying it off with a screw driver.  Remember to do this carefully or you will damage the retaining ring. When the ring is loose, it will come off of the gauge face as shown in Figure 4.

     After you remove the retaining ring, you should be able to remove the various rings and transparent face that cover the gauge.  Figure 5 shows all of the rings that came out of this early 914 tachometer.  Depending upon your gauge type and car, the mounting of the clear face may differ.  At this point, you should perform any repair or cleaning on the gauge that you need to do.  Remember to use a lint-free cloth when cleaning your gauge. Lint dust on a black background shows up really well if you don't.  Another useful tool is compressed air in a can (usually used to clean computer equipment).  Blow out any dust or debris prior to reassembly.

     The substitution of a glass face instead of the plastic one requires no modifications at all.  When reassembling the gauge, be sure to clean everything carefully and reassemble the gauge in its original configuration.  The retaining ring is reattached by fitting it over the gauge and bending back the edge that you previously bent away.  Make sure that the ring is on tight; you would hate to have the face of your gauge fall off while driving!  When you are finished, you can touch up the ring of the gauge with a black permanent marker (Figure 6).  It's a quick solution that actually works really well.  Your glass gauge faces will be a vast improvement that you will notice the next time, and every time you drive your car.

 

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Figure 7: Rear of Odometer with Mounting Screws

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Figure 8: Speedometer Mechanism

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Figure 9: Speedometer Mechanism

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Figure 10: Rear of Speedometer Drive

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Figure 11: Odometer Drive Shaft

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Figure 12: Top View of  Odometer Drive

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Figure 13: Taped Wheel Set

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Figure 14: Odometer Drive Without Shaft

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Figure 15: Pot Metal Advance Gear

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Figure 16: Right Two Number Wheels

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Figure 17: Placing Taped Wheels in Mechanism

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Figure 18: Front Face with Numbers Aligned

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Figure 19: Final Assembly of Odometer Drive

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Figure 20: Side View of Final Assembly of Odometer Drive

Odometer Repair

     The first repair job I ever attempted on my 914 was the repair of my odometer.  I had just gotten to LA, and had some time to kill before I moved into my apartment.  I decided to go look at some 914s in the newspaper in my spare time.  I found a gem of a car (the one I own now) and basically bought it on the spot.  I later had to park the 914 in the parking lot of the hotel I was staying at!  Needless to say, when I took my 914 to get insured, my insurance company wouldn't let me put it on my policy because the odometer was broken (silly of me for mentioning that to them).  That night in the hotel room with nothing more than a screw driver and a pocket knife, I took apart my odometer.

     Well, enough of the history.  The problem of the Porsche VDO odometer breaking is very common among all early Porsches.  I was amazed to find that my 1960 356 odometer was almost exactly the same as my 914 odometer and had the same problem (just a few parts that were metal in 1960 were now plastic in 1974).  The odometer didn't work, and when advancing the trip counter, the mileage would advance by one mile.  Having fixed this before on my 914, I quickly fixed the one in my 356.

     The basic problem with the odometers lies in the fact that a pot-metal gear that was originally press-fit onto the odometer drive shaft often comes loose.  When it is no longer adhering to the shaft, there is no way for the odometer to turn.  The solution, in a nutshell, is to remove and disassemble the mechanism, and to reattach this gear to the shaft.  Unfortunately, this is not as easy as it sounds.  For this project you will need the following:

  • Plenty of Patience

     Beware that the first time you put everything back together, you may make a mistake, and have to do it over again.  This has happened to me a couple of times.  One way to prevent this is to check to make sure everything works correctly after you finish a particular step.

     The first step in fixing your odometer is to remove the outer retaining ring and gauge face.  This was described earlier in the section, Gauge Face RefurbishmentOnce you have the face removed, the next step is to remove the speedometer and odometer mechanism.   Remove the two screws located on the back of the gauge, as shown in Figure 7.  With a little coaching, the internals of the gauge should slide out.

     Note: All of the photos that accompany this section show the gauge with the speedometer face and needle removed.  You should not remove the speedometer needle and gauge face.  This will require you to recalibrate your speedometer - not an easy job.  The only thing that you need to remove to perform the odometer repair is the odometer drive shaft.  The rest of the photos show the internals of the speedometer drive primarily for curiosity seekers.   Disassembling the speedometer assembly may certainly affect its accuracy in the future.  The speedometer mechanism, detached from the odometer mechanism, is shown in Figure 8 and Figure 9.  This speedometer mechanism mates into the back of the odometer mechanism, as shown Figure 10.

      The main failure point within the odometer is the pot-metal gear that is pressed onto the odometer drive shaft.  The shaft holds all of the number wheels together and is connected by a worm gear.  This shaft is shown in Figure 11.  The pot metal gear, shown on the right, needs to either be glued or deformed enough to be pressed back onto the shaft.To remove the shaft, simply pull on the gear that is on the opposite end of the pot metal gear.  This gear is shown on the left side of Figure 12.  To prevent the number wheels from coming loose and flying off everywhere, tape a small piece of tape across the assembly.  This way, the entire taped assembly can be removed and easily replaced later on (Figure 13).  It has also been brought to my attention that the wheels are difficult to remove without taking the faceplate off.  Beware that if you remove the needle, it may be difficult to recalibrate the gauge (see below).  The best advice that I have is to remove the small screws that hold the face on, and then rotate the face so that you can get the wheels out.

     After you remove the odometer drive shaft (Figure 14), you have a few options to make the repair.  You can try gluing the gear onto the shaft, but this is difficult as there is little clearance when the unit is finally assembled.  You can place some glue on the inside of the gear, and hope that it will be enough to hold the gear.  You can also roughen up the shaft a bit with some sand paper or a grinding wheel.  My recommendation is to actually deform the wheel by compressing it with vise grips or some other applicable tool.  Carefully squeeze the wheel at the points shown in Figure 15, until the inside become slightly oval.  On the 356 odometer, I found that the flanges on the wheel were a bit bigger, making this a much easier process.

     If the wheels are still together, and they haven't become separated from the tape, reassembly is a bit easier.  If the wheels have become jumbled, then reposition them in their proper order.  The two right most wheels are shown in Figure 16.  Make sure that the wheel with the extra white attachment (shown on right) is placed all the way on the right, and that the wheel with the copper metal insert is placed next to it.  To reassemble the odometer shaft, place all of the number wheels in the housing as shown in Figure 17.  Then insert the shaft through the wheels making sure that the numbers stay aligned.  At this point in time, you can set your odometer to anything that you would like, although experience tells me that it is hard to put the unit back together without messing up the specific number that you want.   Push the odometer driveshaft back into the housing and through the pot metal gear.   Depending upon how you decided to deform the wheel, this may take some force.   Make sure that all your numbers are lined up before pushing the shaft back into the pot metal gear. Check it by looking carefully at the face on the mechanism, as shown in Figure 18.  It is possible to have numbers that are half-turned and not even with the other numbers.   Getting this right may take more than one try - it does for me each time.  The final odometer mechanism is shown reassembled in Figure 19 and Figure 20.

     Place the odometer/speedometer mechanism back into the housing and mount it with the two screws you removed earlier.  You can test the operation of the unit using a hand drill in the calibration procedure described below.   Replace the gauge face and reattach the outer ring as described in the first section. Your gauge should work well for years to come!

     For the non-adventurous, Pelican Parts repairs these odometers, replacing the faces, and guarantees the results.  Send us some email if you would like this service performed on your gauge, or if you have any questions.

 

 

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Figure 21: Calibration Setup

 

Speedometer Calibration and Check

    Do you think that you're speedometer might be internally uncalibrated?  You can check the accuracy of your speedometer by using the following method:

     Remove the speedometer from the car along with the trip meter reset cable.  For cars without the cable (356 gauges), you can get one from a 914.  Place one end of the reset cable into the back of the gauge, and clamp the other end in the chuck of a hand drill.  Figure 21 shows this setup.  Run the drill in reverse until the speed reaches about 60 mph.  Then wait until the right dial on the trip meter reaches zero.   Start the stop watch and carefully watch the trip meter.  After exactly one minute, the trip meter should read exactly one mile more than when you started.  If you reach the one mile point before the time is up, your speedometer is reading low.   If you reach the one mile point after the time has elapsed, then your speedometer is reading higher than it should.  You can use this method to check the speedometer at different speeds too.  If you're adventurous, you can use this method to recalibrate your gauge by removing the needle and replacing it on it's shaft.  This may or may not work depending upon how your speedometer became uncalibrated.

 

Speedometer Recalibration for Different Sized Tires

      Charles Davis (chuxter@airmail.net) adds the following information on recalibrating your speedometer for different sized tires:

A spedometer is an eddy current device...ie, a permanent magnet rotating close to a conductive disk or cup causes electrical current to flow in small rotating eddies. These currents, being "shorted out" by the continuous conductive disk, cause a drag torque. The torque produced is a function of several things, but primarily the velocity of the magnet and the flux produced by the magnet. The torque winds up a spring on the needle until the spring torque is the same as the eddy current torque.

To "calibrate" one, there are several ways:

1. change the spacing between the magnet and the disk or cup. The cup design was used (I believe) to eliminate the spacing as an assembly variable, so changing it with a cup type is difficult.

2. change the spring constant. I don’t know how this would be done.

3. change the amount of "magnetism" in the magnet.

In practice, I’ve only seen the last method used. The process is to magnetize the magnet fully, then demagnetize it a little until the speedometer produces the correct result. Normally, a speedometer is calibrated by rotating the input shaft at a stable, constant rate (such as 1000 RPM) and adjusting the magnet until it gives a known reading. Some speedometers have the input-output value printed on the case somewhere...not sure about VDO gages though...I see some "funny" numbers on mine, in addition to the part number, but none seem to be this type number. This type of calibration would make the speedo correct for the factory original tire size. It would be needed because magnets loose a little of their strength with time.

To compensate for a different size tire, you would have to do the math to determine the % difference to a standard tire (use the rolling radius spec) and then tell the guy doing the calibration to make it X% more or X% less.

Another method is to leave the speedo alone and add a small "transmission" in the drive line. I think these were common in old rally cars (the ones bafore computers took over). These "transmissions" could be adjusted to give many gear ratios (near 1:1), and thus correct for speedo errors. I think they did this by having hundreds of gear sets available? (Wayne, ask Tom...he might know about these? I don’t think they are used much now...perhaps someone has an old one they would sell?) The "transmission" was small...it could be hidden under the dash.

Hope some of this helps.

Charles Davis
chuxter@airmail.net

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Figure 21: Gauge Module Removed from Rear

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Figure 22: Interchangeable Gauge Module

Temp/Oil/Gas Module Replacement and Substitution

      The gauges used on many Porsches have interchangeable modules that can be switched quite easily.  The process is simple; simply unscrew the module from the rear and lift it out of the housing.  Figure 21 shows the rear of a gauge while Figure 22 shows a 911 druck press (oil pressure) module.  The swapping of modules is useful for a wide variety of tasks:

  • Swap 6V with 12V modules when converting a 356 to from 6V to 12V.
  • Replace your expensive and hard to find 912/356 temp sender with an inexpensive 914 one.  Replace both the sender and the temperature module in the gauge.
  • Add a temperature gauge to 914s that originally did not have one.
  • Add an oil pressure module to a 914 combination gauge.
  • Easily repair your gauge by swapping only the module that is broken.

Conclusions

     Well, there you have it.  If you can think of anything we left out, please let us know.   Please remember that Pelican Parts strives to offer great customer service coupled with reasonable prices on everything for your 914.  Help keep the tech articles coming by letting us earn your business.


After publishing this article, we received the following tips from Steve Anderson:

Name: Steve Anderson
Location: Richmond, VA
E-Mail spikeitva@aol.com <mailto:spikeitva@aol.com>
Vehicle: 1976 911 Targa with 1977 3.0 engine

     Recently, I encountered problems with the speedometer in my 1976 911. I read your tech tip article entitled, "Porsche Dashboard Gauge Repair and Refurbishment, Odometer Repair", and found it to be very informative, just as each of your articles have been. However, I was experiencing additional problems with my speedometer and I was also dealing with an electronic speedometer rather than a cable driven speedometer. But fortunately your article gave me enough information the confidence to tackle the troublesome speedometer and make a successful repair. I am including the symptoms that I experienced and the steps taken to resolve the problems, in case they could be useful to others. My terminology may not be correct, and due to this, if this is used please feel free to correct it as needed. Thank you for providing such an informative web site.

Symptoms:

     After resetting the tripometer in my car, I realized that neither the tripometer nor the odometer would function. A constant clicking sound could be heard coming from the speedometer and the reset button was jerking with each click sound. Also the speedometer needle would not go beyond 90 kmh. Nor would the needle drop back to 0 kmh. The needle would remain at 90 kmh. I found that by pushing on the tripometer reset button would allow the speedometer to continue advancing but would then not go beyond 110 kmh. I would have to push the tripometer reset again to either allow the speedometer needle to reset to 0 kmh or to continue advancing. And neither the tripometer nor the odometer would advance in mileage.

Resolution:

     Using your tech tip article, "Porsche Dashboard Gauge Repair and Refurbishment, Odometer Repair", the speedometer was dismantled. I then loosened the retaining bolt holding the electric gear drive motor in place so that the remaining gears could be rotated freely. This is where I found the clicking sound being heard. Still pushing the tripometer reset button had no effect.. The speedometer needle could manually advanced but would not advance beyond 90 kmh unless the tripometer reset button was pushed, then the speedometer needle could be advanced to 110 kmh and the same problem would occur. I found one of the (for lack of proper terminology) locking tabs that is used to lock or unlock the numbered wheels on the tripometer to reset to 0, was not going back to its proper position. With this tab in the up or unlocked position the gears were attempting to turn the numbered wheels but were slipping or not engaging properly. Also with this tab in the up or unlocked position, the tab would catch and stop what appears to be the speedometer needle counterweight. By lightly pushing this tab back down to its proper position, the speedometer needle could be advanced through the full range of the speedometer without catching and stopping as it did previously. I then tested the tripometer and odometer by turning the gear closest to the drive motor. The tripometer and odometer advanced correctly without the clicking sound. The tripometer was reset in order to check its functionality. This test was also successful. Then I repeated each of these steps several times to test the complete functionality of the speedometer. Once I felt that the problem had been corrected, the main drive motor was tightened back down and the speedometer was put back together then reinstalled into the car. A final test drive was performed to verify the problems had been corrected and the tripometer reset would operate correctly. Now all is back to normal.


Fritz Lohss, luckyhund@aol.com adds:

     I would like to thank you for your article on VDO speedometer repair. It was very helpful and gave me the encouragement to do it myself. I have experience as a locksmith and that helped me to perform this task.

     I have some suggestions that should improve the article. After exposing the speedometer from the housing with a small screwdriver lightly try to rotate the pot metal gear. If it rotates then proceed. Pull the shaft out so that the pot metal gear can be removed. Loosen the gage panel screws to permit swinging the gage panel that will permit dropping the pot metal gear in your hand. Be careful not to disturb the gage needle. With the pot metal gear out, centerpunch the hub (outside), I did it two times l80 degrees apart.

     Reinstall the pot metal gear and use a small phillips screw driver shaft to facilitate the alignment from outside the housing. Lightly tap the shaft to its position. Check to ascertain that the pot metal gear does not rotate and is part of the shaft per above directions. Make sure that the gage needle is on top of the stop peg and tighten the two gage panel screws. Make sure all the numbers line up to the gage face. Reassemble the gage. Before installing the glass, use a battery variable speed drill with the switch on counter-clockwise setting. From a finishing nail pound and grind a square on the head that will fit the square speedometer drive. Set the trip meter to zero and run the drill for several “miles” to check the instrument. If everything is okay recrimp the ring around the glass cover. This should fix your speedometer.

Comments and Suggestions:
Garry Comments: I have a '89 Carrera that the tach suddenly went dead on. Don't have any idea how to trouble shoot the cause. Would like to do some investigating on my own before going to dealer for expensive shop time. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
December 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can check the signal to the tach. There should be a wire with an RPM signal. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Doug Comments: Hi there, thanks for the article! I have a mph speedo in a 912E that I need to replace with km/h. My current scale is 0-150 mph. Do I have to be careful replacing it with a certain km/h range, or do I have to change something else, or is it just plug and play with pretty much any vdo speedo for an early porsche?
August 31, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would find one for you era, then you should be OK. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Brad Comments: Thanks Nick,
I bought a relay and no fix. Next I will find where the coolant fan switch I purchased goes. Hopefully this does it. Thanks again!
April 25, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No problem, thanks for the follow up. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Brad Comments: Hi Nick,
Thanks for the reply. To answer your question... yes both fans run whenever the key is turned on. When the car is running they both continue to run constantly.
April 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It must be either a faulty coolant fan switch and or control relay. Of course there’s always the possibility of some strange wiring issue.

Initially I would guess it’s a faulty coolant fan switch (this is the most likely situation) because the symptoms occur when the engine is cold. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Brad Comments: Now how do I get my fans to shut off? When I turn the key to acc. or on both fans start and it does it always..warm or cold.
April 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Do the fans do the same when the engine is running? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Brad Comments: Thank you for your response on my 85.5 944. It was a battery issue. New battery, problem solved. Thanks much!
April 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Great. Thanks for the follow up. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Brad Comments: 85 2nd edition 944. Been sitting for 2 years. Was running when parked. Now when trying to start..starter does not turn engine over but speedometer reads 80mph and the odometer is advancing every time I turn the key on. Any suggestions?
April 13, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like a voltage drop issue. I would voltage drop the battery positive and negative connections. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Frogman Comments: 1963 356B....when I turn on the ignition, the oil temp needle goes all the way to the right and works back to the left as she warms up. How to reverse this? Thanks
March 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Have the wires been swapped? You may have to reverse them. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
cdhig Comments: My 1969 911 T Tachometer has an issue: It will not move past 4k rpm. It stops there while the engine revs past, and then as revs fall it will catch and indicate rpm below 4k. I've searched but not seen anyone describing this problem's likely cause or fix. Any suggestions?
February 25, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like a faulty tach. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Don Comments: I have a 1973 914 Porsche and the gear at speedometer gear that connects into the transmission is worn out because the speedometer does not work and the gear turns freely when I loosened the cable and checked it. Will I loose transmission fluid if I disconnect it right at the trans and what is the procedure to replace it. What parts are needed.
November 24, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Fluid could come out, or more importantly, debris could go in. If I remember correctly, the speedometer gear unscrews from the transmission. Detach the cable, then you will unscrew the nut on the speedo gear, then pull it out of the transmission. - Nick at Pelican Parts
Don Comments: I have a 1973 914 and some of the dash lights are out and it is not lit very well. How much work is involved in replacing all the bulbs in the dash and what is the procedure.
November 24, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This tech article describes the procedure:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/bob_tindel/brighter_instruments.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
steven Comments: Qtip shafts will work when the shaft is pulled out to keep the number wheels from coming apart. Also, a 1/2 inch wood chisel is perfect for removing the crimpted cover. The little white clips need to be aligned prior to reassembly.... A hex drive will score the inside of the gear perfectly... GOOD LUCK.
October 28, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mark Comments: That would be for a 2001 Boxster, BTW
October 9, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mark Comments: How do you remove the dash shade that covers the dyno instrument cluster, I need to cover this piece with some leather? Thanks
October 8, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: it is quite involved. I found this DiY on the web. It will show you how to get the dashboard cover off. https://www.dropbox.com/s/bjsmzjkt7fz4jru/step%202%20Dashboard%20cover%20removal.pdf- Nick at Pelican Parts  
tomo Comments: I want to clean the inside glass lense on my 64 356c tachometer and speedo. You mention above how to prize off the chrome ring, but how do you crimp it back into place afterwards. Is the metal soft and can I just press it back in with say a wide screwdriver blade.thanks
August 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The retaining ring is reattached by fitting it over the gauge and bending back the edge that you previously bent away. Make sure that the ring is on tight; you would hate to have the face of your gauge fall off while driving! - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Paul Comments: I have 84 Carrerra and one day, Tahs started no previous or recent work running backwards. Idles at 7000 rpm and when pedal pushed, tach shoots down to 3-4000 rpm. Sent tach to be rebuilt and they said it works perfect on bench.
Voltage output within specs at both idle and when applying power. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Paul
power. A
August 14, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Have you checked the grounds to the tach? If the ground is good, you'll have to check the signal to the tach using a scope. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jerry Comments: I need a replacement for my 1984 911 porsche speedometer, any thoughts?
April 8, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try this page: https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_ELgage_pg1.htm

or give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Huma Comments: Have a 70 914-6 out US and need to change odometer counting from Miles to km. Which gears do I need to change?
For the speedometer I found a new decall with km/h.
Thanks for your help
Huma
February 8, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you're looking to change your speedometer from miles per hour to km/h, then I suggest you just find a used kilometers per hour speedometer and swap that in instead. The gears that you need to replace inside this the speedometer are only available with the kilometers per hour speedometer so you will need to find one anyway. A good odometer shop like Hollywood speedometer can assist you with the face replacement and the recalibration of the speedometer. Although you can do this at home it's easy to mess up and your speedometer may never read the correct speed in the future. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
AlexJ Comments: This tech info only aplies to some models. Is it possible to publish the same but covering SC's odometer? Thanks
December 25, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If we get the chance to update the article we will. Thanks for the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Abear Comments: I have a 1985 Targa which I was attempting to correct a cruse control problem. Found a faulty wire from the from the control module to the Servo. Replaced the wire got the correct readings at the Control module connector exept for the Speedometer. The Speedometer worked before I started. I have liminated the sending unit since the Tact works and they work off the same feed. I have 12v to the Speedometer but it still does not work. Any suggested checks I can make to determine the problems.
November 5, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You confirmed the signal is getting to the speedo? If so and power and ground is good, the gauge may have failed. It could have been damaged during testing. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mhanrahan Comments: Need help...I recently took my early 85 944 dash out and put in a new one. I also needed to do a little re wiring. Any way, just about got it back together but cant find where the wire coming off the speedometer conects up to. I have looked everywhere for the male conterpart to the female end on the speedo. Can anyone shed some light for me. Thanks.
July 29, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The connector should be in the area of the gauge. I would check if it fell down, near the firewall. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Joel Comments: I have a 1995 933 and the oil pressure and parking brake warning light are working intermittently. Seems like a loose connection or an internal problem. Any ideas?
July 16, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Let's start with the oil pressure warning light. Take this seriously, lack of oil pressure even for a short while can cause engine damage. I would install an oil pressure gauge and try to duplicate the problem. If it is OK and light is on, check grounds to instrument cluster. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
David Young Comments: I am looking for information regarding the 1987 and newer odometer repair. My odometer is electrically driven, not mechanically driven. Also, how do you remove the indicator needle?
May 21, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We don't currently have instructions for that repair. If we get the chance to perform the repair we will be sure to document it. We can get you the gear to repair if it is available.


See this thread for more information.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/621195-odometer-gear-help.html - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
barrie63 Comments: Hello, I replaced the 20tooth speedo gear in my cluster-it was mush so mileage was not counting up. All the gauges where working just fine. Now only the tach, oil pressure and mpg guage work. I was very careful and nothing looks damaged on the cluster. This is a late model 1985 944. I'm confused as to what to check to solve this problem. While I was waiting on the gear I rebuilt the calipers-would messing with the abs sensors affect the speedometer?
March 19, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The speedo signal comes from the transmission. I would remove the gauges and check if something unplugged or misrouted. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
fran Comments: Can you give me a price to repair an odometer on a 1964 356C porsche. Thanks.
January 13, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JohnJuan Comments: Okay I have the speedometer pulled forward on my 1987 Porsche 911. All of the wires are marked and removed except for three wires that are connected each to a red connector on the back of the speedometer. I can't figure out how to release these wires from the red connectors. I tried turning the connectors 90 degrees to see if that would free them up but it didn't. Any suggestions?
December 10, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Can you share a photo? I can help you once I see the connectors, want to be sure we are on the same page. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
beas Comments: once you have one intrument out reach in and push the others, there are no brackets wires screws holding them in. when replacing and pushing back in lubricate them up...i used armour all and worked in an minute without 45min.
November 28, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JohnJuan Comments: I have a 1987 Porsche 911 Targa. I have read all of the information about rebuilding the odometer and would like to tackle that. My first question is........does the speedometer /odometer assembly just pull straight out toward the driver? Are there any brackets to loosen on the back? Do I disconnect the cable and wires first from the back or is there enough slack in these to disassemble once the speedometer is pulled forward? Thanks,
November 21, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It pulls straight out. You will have to disconnect it once it is pulled out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Buba Comments: Hi guys I'm looking for the all set of speedometers on a dashboard of a 911 e 1972
Any help ??
October 31, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you are still looking for the parts. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
deversi Comments: Troubleshooting question. 1970 911T speedo not functioning at all.
So far I have only determined that the inner cable does not turn while driving. How ca I determine if it is cable or the drive unit? Thanks
September 15, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will have to disconnect the cable at the transmission. Then spin the cable and check if the speedo works. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Naomi Comments: Hi - I have an '89 911 C2 Wide-body Cabrio with an odometer that froze when I went to reset after buying gas. The gauge is separate from the speedometer. I want to remove the gauge & repair without messing up my dash fear. Is this guage mysteriously connected to my speedometer or is it all electronic & I will find wires back there?
I went under the dash and the AC panel cover most of what is behind so you can't really see the back of the cluster.
Can I do this myself?
August 23, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I attached a photo to show the back of the gauge. Here is a great write up on how to repair your problem:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/196987-odometer-gear-replacement-electronic-speedometers-long.html - Nick at Pelican Parts
shuz Comments: I am about to buy a fresh speedo for my 911sc, but would like to get the mileage adjusted to what is on my frozen odometer. I would like to avoid breaking the seals on the new speedo. Does anyone have a solution for this problem?
July 28, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Great question. I am not 100% sure.

I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ed Comments: Perfect. Just what I needed to fix the odometer on my 914. Thanks!
July 17, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Rich Comments: I have a '94 968 with the odometers not working. How do I repair them?
July 8, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There are two styles:

One version is done this way:

http://www.odometergears.com/documentation/Porsche_911_Gear_and_Pod_Odometer_Repair.pdf

You can buy the gears here: http://www.odometergears.com/documentation/Porsche_911_Gear_and_Pod_Odometer_Repair.pdf #item14 - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
ejboyd5 Comments: Threaded studs on the rear of VDO gauges are 4mm-.70. If you've misplaced on or more of the nuts that holds the gauge tight against its bracket and don't want a trip to the hardware store - look to your spark plug connection. The strange shaped "nut" on the top of the plug is also 4mm-.70.
June 20, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Richard Comments: I followed your instructions and was able to fix my odometer. The problem was the pot metal gear. Thanks so much for the great instructions and comments by others. I do have one question. Before I put it back in my car, should I lubricate the odometer gears and other moving parts? If so, what should I use? WD30? Graphite? Something else? Thanks again.
June 14, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The new gears have graphite in the plastic, no lubricant is required.

Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
claire Comments: Is it possible to have a speedometer wiring diagram for a 1984 911 Porsche ?
May 15, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See if this helps:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/335734-speedometer-wiring.html - Nick at Pelican Parts
Mac Comments: The speedometer on my 1970 - 911E makes noise at speeds over 50 mph ...
and the needle bounces slightly. It appears to be fairly accurate except for the bouncing. What parts need service and / or replacement?
Thanks!
May 9, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is likely a slightly kinked speedometer cable. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
RV911SC Comments: I lost power to my tachometer. Just had the tach rebuilt. after install found no power in red wire. The fuses all look good.

Any help?
May 5, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You didn't mention what vehicle you have. It could be a broken wire, try running a temporary wire. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Brose Comments: With all this great info. I am still left with one question. Unless I missed the answer I need to know if the
guage has to be removed from the dashboard to make these repairs ? If so, do they come out from the rear or out the front ? I have a 912e thanks mike







March 27, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: They simply pop out the front. They are just held on with a single seal. Simply pull them out and they will pull out of the dash. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
skys Comments: hi all
all this info is great
i own a 928 s4 1987 Porsche of course does any one could tell me how to take the dash board out of the speed o because the odometer stopped working and my worry is to take the dash out well not all of it but where the gauges are,
thanks
sandro
January 29, 2011
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not versed in 928s at all, so I don't know, but I will copy this question to our forums, and perhaps someone there will be able to assist. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Bob Comments: Sirs:
I replaced the odometer gear I ordered from you, reassembled the speedometer but misplaced my notes regarding the electrical connections order / positions. Can you help?
November 17, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I emailed you - you need to let me know which car you're referring to specifically in order for me to be able to assist. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Mark Comments: My '82 928 5-spd has a mangled printed circuit board behind the instrument panel. Have searched parts dealers high and low but none have 1982 in stock just my luck to get this year. I have no lighting, no correct temp read and intermittent fuel indication. You can see where this could be a problem. Any help?
November 13, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the part is available, we can find it. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
murphy928 Comments: looking for a metric speedometer for my 1981 928
November 9, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
jamieboy81 Comments: Hi, i have scratched the lense of my speedometer on my 2008 Porsche Cayman. Does anyone know how i can get a new one of these. Ive been trying everywhere.
August 30, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm pretty sure that you can remove the front lens out of the speedometer unit. However, the bad news is that I don't think this part is available separately. So, you'd have to find a lens unit from a dismanteler who happens to have a faulty or broken gauge cluster unit. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Biker Bob Comments: Excellent article. I followed it step by step to repair my odometer. All I can add is BE PATIENCE should be emphasized. Thanks
May 31, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JeffF Comments: My speedo doesn't work speed or odometer. I had it rebuilt, and replaced the speed sensor, but the speedo still doesn't work. Any suggestions? 87 Carrera
May 25, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: At this point, you need to check the signal from the sensor (with a scope possibly with the car up on jack stands), and/or compare it to the signal coming into the gauge cluster. Also check the grounds to the gauge, those have a bad habit of causing problems like these... - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: Speedo on my 87 911 is dusty on inside around the hole at bottom where reset knob sticks thru.
Is it missing a small rubber seal at that hole?
When cleaning, I am considering having my bezels chromed, rather than black. have you done this on rebuilds?
I have seen the turned aluminum ones, but they are too fat for the look I want.
Any other options that you know of? Mike
April 24, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I haven't seen anyone chrome the bezels, I would think that might be a bit distracting. I believe we sell bezel covers that are removable - at least that way if you don't like them, then you can remove them. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Bart Comments: Hi my 356 speedometer needle broke off at the top of center is it replacable if so who might I check with Thank You ,Bart
April 11, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think you have to replace the speedo, unless you can find a used one to source parts from. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
larry Comments: Hi, the electric speedometer in my 1980 911SC is no longer advancing the mileage/odometer reading. I have taken it apart, and the rubber gear that is driven by the worm gear on the electric motor has worn off a couple of teeth. Where can I find a replacement gear? Thanks for your assistance.
March 30, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can buy a replacement odometer gear here: https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_ELgage_pg4.htm#item16 - Nick at Pelican Parts  
magstu Comments: my lcd on rev counter as just vanished it,s a 1999 911 could you give me any clue,s many thank,s stu
February 11, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think VDOrepair fixes this issue. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Todd951968 Comments: How do you remove the circular connectors on the back of the electronic speedo on the 911? Not the line of male/female connectors , but, the 3 or 4 holes with a wire and circular plastic piece going into them? They don't seem to just pull out?
January 31, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You have to lever the metal ring at the bottom of the red plastic piece out. Do not pry on the plastic. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
loulou21 Comments: Hi all,

I'm looking for a 240Km/H speedo for a 3.0 911SC 1980
Electronic version,
Please let me know if one is available around ?
olyonnet AT hotmail com
Cheers
January 22, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ED Comments: I HAVE THE ODOMETER PROBLEM WITH MY 1989 PORSCHE C4. DO YOU SELL THE GEAR REPLACEMENT AS DISCUSSED IN THE COMMENTS. ALSO, I WOULD LIKE TO REPLACE THE LENS ON THE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE. DO YOU SELL THOSE?
January 20, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the parts are available, we can get them for you.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
tuned6 Comments: Hi. I have a little trick that I have learned over the years of fixing the cable driven speedometer's odometer. When the pot metal gear becomes loose from the shaft don't pull out the pot metal gear or the stack. It is a mess! And if you get the link gears back incorrectly your odometer will lock up again down the road!
Get a nail or small phillips screwdriver to knock the shaft out and keep the gears in place while you peen the shaft. You can put the shaft back up across the top of the gear stack and eyeball where you will want to peen the shaft to lock inside the p.m gear.
I found that using a set of wire strippers squeezed gently to mar the shaft works great. I always start off soft and keep trying the fit until the shaft will require a tap to get it through it's original hole in the frame. Line it up with the nail while keeping a slight pressure on the nail so you don't loose placement of the gears while swapping it back out for the shaft. The shaft will require what I would call a decent tap for the size of the parts to get it through the frame and it will go pretty smoothly through the soft gears and will finally lock into the p.m. gear and you are done.
Lastly, I just did my '74's odometer and noticed it had a plastic lens. A great trick for plastics is to use car polish to remove years of buildup and use a finer car polish to remove the swirls. I guarantee you'll dig the results. After you amaze yourself with that polish the taillight lenses. You can thank me with your left over parts for X-mas!
My biggest recommendation for while you are in your guages is to keep your fingers off of the display. Has anyone found a product to wipe them with to remove prints? Everything I've tried likes to take off the delicate paint or print.
Good luck!
Christopher
Tucson, Az
January 6, 2010
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
SorenDK Comments: Hi - i have imported a US 911E from '69 to Europe and needs to convert the speedo from mph to km/h... I need a good advice on where to find a good and perhaps even a cheap :- black, km/h faceplate for the speedo... Have you got these? - thanks for a great site !! Søren
December 15, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's probably best to just find a KPH speedo on eBay or somewhere like that. I estimate it wouldn't cost more than $100 or so. Here in the states, they are not too terribly desired. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Sean Comments: Hi, I have numerous 914 gauges and am trying to get one good set for a 914/6 replica. I have the correct 150mph gauge that has an issue with the speedo not working. I have already done the odometer repair but still have little or no speedo on the bench test. Is there a way to use parts from my numerous 120mph gauges to repair the 150mph gauges I have?
November 19, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think the parts are different. However, someone may have done this before.

I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
T J Comments: i have a 1964 356C, The speedo does not seem to have a reset shaft / assembly to reset the trip odometer! Also the clock does not work.
Do you have info or ideas on modification and repair of these two units?
October 26, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The article above gives you the full instructions on how to fix both of these problems. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Robert Comments: Question: If I would like to change the "facia" of a 99 Boxster from black to a white "facia", how can I remove the plastic open "rivet" which is located around the opening where the needle shaft protrudes and which holds the "facia" in place?
September 20, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I've been messing with these lately, and I think the best option for you might be to buy a used cluster on eBay or some place like that, which already has the back face in light silver / white (it was an option on some of the cars - my wife's car has it). Much of the time messing with the needles and gauge faces, you can create problems that don't show up until later (gauges uncalibrated, things broken, etc.). As for the rivet, I think people might spray that with a bit of paint - I'll have to check. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
rod Comments: hi, where or how to order the parts of speedometer gear and how many days to deliver.
September 20, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hi there. We have some of these in stock depending upon the model of car. Try our sales guys at 1-888-280-7799 and they can guide you through the process of ordering what you need. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Rob Comments: Wayne, Thanks for your exellent service; I viewed yr pictures; indeed the needle used to be in that postion.
I have an old 2002 Boxster cluster; on that one there is a definite stop, which you can feel on the lower postion of the needle, however on the 1999 one I feel none; because of the plastic arch it stops the needle from going down even more; since there is no needle stop on the dial; the stop is incorporated into the steppermotor, I think
Anyway I'll see what I can do! Question: Is the steppermotor of the 2002 model the same as 1999?
August 31, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have one that's torn apart, but I'm guessing there's a small stop in there that got broken or something. I think that the stepper motor is indeed the same - those clusters are so similar it would make sense that they are. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Rob Comments: Thanks for yr answer!! As I said I only replaced the front glass part and never touched the needles. Probably because I disconnected power this may have had something to do with it polarity? About your question, see the attached picture. The needle rest on the edge of the plastic arch about 3mm below the "square" low fuel "block"
August 30, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure what the problem could be, it's not related to the power going out - I sent you two pics of other clusters in your email. If it's really bothering you I would take it apart and take a closer look at it - perhaps you bumped it or something when you put it back together? - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Rob Comments: I have a 1999 Boxster; one of the plastic glasses had a crack and replaced it removed the cluster to do thathowever the fuel level needle now sinks way down on the edge of the bottom plastic arch with ignition off.It still shows the correct amount of fuel with the igntion on.
What can I do? take the needle of and reposition? will this then show incorrect fuel level? Etc. please advise; thanking you in advance!!! Rob
August 27, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, I'm not 100% sure, but I think this might be an electronic setting in the cluster itself. There is a Porsche computer called the PST2 (I have one) that allows you to set and test all of the gauges, although I haven't done this. There also might have been a stop somewhere in there. I just checked my photos, and the needled should be blocking the little gas pump when off. Is this where yours is? - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
ros74911 Comments: hi, how can i remove the black plastic wire going on top of odometer. i don't want to break it. it has black plastic clip. do i have to send it in to you guys? this is for 74 911 odometer. it stopped working. please advise. thanks.
July 26, 2009
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The odometers all have removable electrical connections, I'm confused as to what you're referring to? If it's the odometer reset cable, that's detached underneath the dashboard. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  

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