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Trunk Lock Cylinder, Handle and Latch Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Trunk Lock Cylinder, Handle and Latch Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$200

Talent:

***

Tools:

T25, T30 Torx drivers, trim panel tool, small flathead screwdriver

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz E320 (2003-09)
Mercedes-Benz E500 (2003-06)
Mercedes-Benz E55 AMG (2003-06)

Parts Required:

Trunk latch, trunk lock cylinder

Hot Tip:

Check trunk latch and button operation before closing trunk

Performance Gain:

Repair broken trunk release handle or latch

Complementary Modification:

Replace trunk latch

The trunk handle, lock cylinder and latch on Mercedes-Benz W211 sedan models are covered in this tech article. The handle has an integrated lock. They are serviced together. The trunk latch can be replaced once the handle is removed, since the detachable end of the Bowden cable is at the handle.

The handle is locked or unlocked via a key or by remote. Once unlocked, the pull of the handle moves a Bowden cable that opens the trunk latch.

There are a few issues that surface with these components. The handle will fail to return to the rest position when opening the trunk. This is due to a worn out spring in the handle. When this happens the lock or trunk release no longer functions. That is until you manually return the handle to the rest position. The latch fails due to wear, causing the trunk to remain open or not latched securely. The lock cylinders can also wear out over time.

Remember that your car may have been serviced before and had parts replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you're working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve, as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

Working at the trunk support arm, using a trim panel tool, remove the plastic rivet by levering out the center pin and removing the rivet.
Figure 1

Working at the trunk support arm, using a trim panel tool, remove the plastic rivet by levering out the center pin and removing the rivet.

Working along the bend of the trunk support trim, use a small flathead screwdriver and unhook the catches (red arrow).
Figure 2

Working along the bend of the trunk support trim, use a small flathead screwdriver and unhook the catches (red arrow).

Remove the trunk support trim by sliding it up and off the trunk support.
Figure 3

Remove the trunk support trim by sliding it up and off the trunk support.

Working along the edge of the trunk, remove the six T25 Torx fasteners (red arrows).
Figure 4

Working along the edge of the trunk, remove the six T25 Torx fasteners (red arrows). Then, remove the trunk trim by pulling it straight off.

Working at the carpet trim panel, remove the plastic rivets (red arrows).
Figure 5

Working at the carpet trim panel, remove the plastic rivets (red arrows). Using a trim panel tool, remove the plastic rivet by levering out the center pin and removing the rivet.

Lower the carpet trim panel enough to access the electrical connectors.
Figure 6

Lower the carpet trim panel enough to access the electrical connectors. Disconnect the trunk light by pulling the connector (red arrow) straight out. Then disconnect the trunk open button (yellow arrow) by pressing the release tab and pulling the connector straight out. Remove the carpet trim panel from the vehicle.

Working the outer corners of the trunk lid, remove the two 8mm nuts (red arrow).
Figure 7

Working the outer corners of the trunk lid, remove the two 8mm nuts (red arrow). The left side is shown. The right side is similar. Then remove the 10mm nut (yellow arrows) near the trunk latch. Once the nut is removed, push the stud out of the trunk and remove it.

Pull the trunk panel off along the top (red arrow).
Figure 8

Pull the trunk panel off along the top (red arrow). Then slide it down in the direction of the yellow arrow to remove it.

Working at the center of the trunk, remove the two T30 Torx handle fasteners (red arrows).
Figure 9

Working at the center of the trunk, remove the two T30 Torx handle fasteners (red arrows).

Then, pull the handle (working inside the trunk lid) out just enough to access the electrical connector.
Figure 10

Then, pull the handle (working inside the trunk lid) out just enough to access the electrical connector. Disconnect the electrical connector (red arrow) by pulling it straight out of the latch.

Pull the handle further out of the trunk lid.
Figure 11

Pull the handle further out of the trunk lid. Pull the cable out of the handle (red arrow). Then remove the cable end from the lever (yellow arrow). If just replacing the handle, reverse the removal steps to reinstall. If replacing the latch, follow the remaining steps.

With the handle removed, move to the trunk latch.
Figure 12

With the handle removed, move to the trunk latch. Then disconnect the electrical connector by pressing the release tab and pulling the connector (red arrow) straight out.

Working at the latch, remove the two T30 Torx fasteners (red arrows).
Figure 13

Working at the latch, remove the two T30 Torx fasteners (red arrows).

Remove the latch toward the inside of the trunk (red arrow).
Figure 14

Remove the latch toward the inside of the trunk (red arrow). As you remove it the insulator (yellow arrow) will release. Be sure not to lose it.

When installing the latch, reverse the removal steps.
Figure 15

When installing the latch, reverse the removal steps. Once installed, check that the latch and handle function before installing the trim panels. Use a screwdriver to close the latch. Then confirm it releases when the handle is pulled. Be sure the insulator is properly seated. The tab on the insulator (red arrow) goes into a slot in the latch.




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Comments and Suggestions:
philipi Comments: Thanks for your pictures and explanations. On my 2008 E350, the manual trunk release handle was sticking; it would not spring back when pulled to open the trunk and had to be pushed back into place. Using your pictures and explanations, I removed the lock mechanism, sprayed some silicon lubricant on the handle axle and return spring and pulled and pushed on the handle a couple dozen times until it moved freely and the spring easily returned the handle to its correct position. The most difficult step was removing the trunk panel figure 8. Some gentle prying along its top edge with a soft plastic kitchen spatula managed to pull out the plastic pins holding the panel in place.
October 2, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
w211 2003 Comments: thank you
September 30, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Your welcome. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
His-P Comments: Hi Nick

My E240 Avantgarde Wagon trunk wont hold on it own when opened. I am having to use a plank to it when opened, and its very embarassing. My model doesnt have a support arm [pictured attached].

What can i do? Help needed here please!
September 27, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think there is a right side coil spring that can be replaced. - Nick at Pelican Parts Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
 
scotte55 Comments: what can i do if the trunk is closed and even the key wont open the latch
July 21, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if the trunk handle is stuck in the open position. If so, push it back toward the trunk lid then try. If that is not the issue, you may have to go into trunk and pushing emergency release button. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Eugene Comments: Glad to reply and keep up the good work.
Cheers.
July 13, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Eugene Comments: Nick, I thought it best to let you know what I discovered. I removed the boot cover to investigate the boot lock handle issue and on reassembling I noticed the rear left number plate lamp gone out. I replaced the bulb only to find it still wouldn't work. I had an issue with my 3rd brake light before and the fault was caused by broken wires in the loom attached to the boot lid on the left side. On a whim I decided to check it out and found two wires severed one being the number plate lamp and the other was an electrical circuit presumably connected to the boot handle issue. I made good the connections of the broken wires and I am one happy man. You might post this result as it may save someone some time and money. Thanks again for your assistance. If your reading this then make sure to post your result to assist others.
July 13, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Eugene Comments: I have a lock on a 2004 e200. The lock works electronically and manually using the key but the handle will not open the boot lid. Feeling around the lock mechanism it appears that the handle is not engaging the lock release but nothing seems to be broken. Perhaps it is something simple like something has slipped.
July 12, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Usually the handles jam in one direction from corrosion, then won;t work. Try pulling it back and forth, see if it frees up. If not you may need a new handle. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Expat5 Comments: I'm talking about removing the lock tumbler/cylinder out of the lock hatch assembly which every car has.

You need to use the valet metal key in the cylinder, and then use a drift to depress a spring loaded cylinder in the back of the lock cylinder assembly. While depressed, rotate the key in the lock cylinder ~ 180 degrees. Eventually the pin you pressing in the back will slide "forward" - toward the front of the cylinder where the key is - and you will be able to pull the lock cylinder straight out the front. *** Be sure not to remove the key or parts go everywhere.***

As I said, I had to destroy my old lock assembly except for the cylinder to figure all of this out and it is published nowhere.

Installation of the lock cylinder is simple: with the metal key installed in the lock cylinder, align the locking tab which will be sticking up from the back of the naked lock cylinder with the tapered notch on the hatch assembly, and insert the lock cylinder. Press it in until you hear a "click" which is that same tab springing back up into the locked position. Done.
September 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: My info states the lock cylinder is an option. Thanks for the steps to the procedure.

Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.


- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Expat5 Comments: Overall *EXCELLENT* article, but missing one very significant step: how to remove the "old" lock cylinder from the old latch assembly, and then how to install the loock cylinder into the new latch assembly which comes without any cylinder. This is not obvious to anyone who does not do this work everyday. I ended up destroying the old latch assembly to get it out.
September 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the note. Our subject vehicle did not have the auxiliary lock option. To remove it, you slide the lock rod out of the latch. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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