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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Bumper Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$200

Talent:

****

Tools:

10mm socket, trim panel tool, 16mm socket

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz E320 (2003-09)
Mercedes-Benz E500 (2003-06)
Mercedes-Benz E55 AMG (2003-06)

Parts Required:

Bumper, mounting brackets, butyl tape

Hot Tip:

Have a friend nearby to help lift bumper on and off; store bumper in safe place once removed

Performance Gain:

Better looks

Complementary Modification:

Install aftermarket bumper cover

Mercedes-Benz W211 sedan models use a plastic bumper cover over a rigid strut-supported bumper. This cover is painted to match your vehicle. It is frequently scratched and damaged. The bumper cover can be replaced quite easily by following along with the instructions in this tech article. You can replace a bumper cover with a factory part, or an aftermarket one if you want to upgrade the look of your W211. Remember to plan to have it painted before you install it, so leave yourself extra time.

The rear bumper is quick and easy to remove. Release a few fasteners and two clips and you can slide it off. The mounting brackets that bolt to the body can break from impact or improper installation. In this article, I will go over removing the rear bumper as well as replacing the mounting brackets. Ask a friend to help you slide the bumper on and off easier.

Remember that your car may have been serviced before and had parts replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you're working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve, as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

Start by removing the trunk carpet.
Figure 1

Start by removing the trunk carpet. Lift the handle and pull it out in the direction of the red arrow to remove it.

Then remove the lower carpet panel.
Figure 2

Then remove the lower carpet panel. There may be plastic rivets in the areas indicated by red arrows. My vehicle did not have them. If you do have them, lever out the center rivet. Then remove the rivet. Use a trim panel tool.

Next, remove the foam support.
Figure 3

Next, remove the foam support. Lift it up and remove it.

Remove the two 10mm fasteners for the electronics cover (red arrows).
Figure 4

Remove the two 10mm fasteners for the electronics cover (red arrows). Then lift and remove the electronics cover from the trunk.

Next, working at the left side carpet trim panel, remove the two plastic rivets (red arrows).
Figure 5

Next, working at the left side carpet trim panel, remove the two plastic rivets (red arrows). Using a trim panel tool, lever out the center rivet. Then remove the rivet.

Next, remove the two cargo anchors (red arrows).
Figure 6

Next, remove the two cargo anchors (red arrows). Lever off the plastic cover (inset photo). Then remove the T30 Torx fasteners (green arrow).

Now the trim along the bottom of the trunk opening has to be removed.
Figure 7

Now the trim along the bottom of the trunk opening has to be removed. This photo shows the left side of the panel. The right side has the same clips. Remove both sides (red arrows). Using a small flathead screwdriver, lever up the center of the clip. Then remove the clip from the panel.

Lift the panel up and off of the trunk opening.
Figure 8

Lift the panel up and off of the trunk opening. Then disconnect the trunk light electrical connector (red arrow) by pressing the release tab and pulling it straight off.

Then, pull the carpet panel away from the body.
Figure 9

Then, pull the carpet panel away from the body. Feed the trunk arm (red arrow) out of the carpet panel as you swing the panel away from the fender (inset). You don't have to fully remove the panel. I just swing it toward the center of the trunk. This leaves enough workspace.

Next, remove the two right side cargo anchors (red arrows).
Figure 10

Next, remove the two right side cargo anchors (red arrows). Lever off the plastic cover. Then remove the T30 Torx fasteners. Then remove the two plastic rivets (green arrow).

Working in the trunk on the left side, lift the dynamic seat pump up and move it aside (red arrow).
Figure 11

Working in the trunk on the left side, lift the dynamic seat pump up and move it aside (red arrow). Once moved aside, detach the vacuum line (green arrow) from the reservoir by pulling it straight off. Work gently, as the line is easily damaged. You only need this step for the left side. The right side lens is not blocked by a pump.

Remove the CD changer mount fastener (red arrow).
Figure 12

Remove the CD changer mount fastener (red arrow). Mine was missing. I believe it should be a T25 Torx.

Once the fastener is removed, swing the CD changer mount out and away from the fender.
Figure 13

Once the fastener is removed, swing the CD changer mount out and away from the fender. Leave it connected to the bracket.

Working in the rear of the fender area, under the vacuum reservoir, remove the two 10mm fasteners (red arrows).
Figure 14

Working in the rear of the fender area, under the vacuum reservoir, remove the two 10mm fasteners (red arrows). The left side is shown. Repeat this step for the right side.

Working at the bottom center of the rear bumper, remove the plastic mount 10mm fasteners (red arrows).
Figure 15

Working at the bottom center of the rear bumper, remove the plastic mount 10mm fasteners (red arrows). On my vehicle, the mounts are missing, likely from an impact. This is common. They attach to the bumper (green arrows) and secure to the body (red arrows).

Working inside the rear of the wheel well liner, remove the three 10mm plastic nuts (red arrows).
Figure 16

Working inside the rear of the wheel well liner, remove the three 10mm plastic nuts (red arrows). Next, remove the plastic rivet. See the following step.

Remove the plastic rivet.
Figure 17

Remove the plastic rivet. Lever up the center pin (green arrow). Then remove the rivet from the liner.

Peel the wheel well liner away from the fender.
Figure 18

Peel the wheel well liner away from the fender. Then remove the 10mm fastener located at the bumper and fender joining point (green arrows).

Working inside the trunk, at the trunk opening, below the corners of the taillights, remove the 10mm nuts (red arrows).
Figure 19

Working inside the trunk, at the trunk opening, below the corners of the taillights, remove the 10mm nuts (red arrows). The left and right side are shown here. When reinstalling, be sure to apply sealing putty (butyl) to the nut washer.

Working inside the trunk, at the center, remove the 10mm nuts (red arrows).
Figure 20

Working inside the trunk, at the center, remove the 10mm nuts (red arrows). When reinstalling, be sure to apply sealing putty (butyl) to the nut washer.

Check that the corner of the bumper is free once the rivets are removed.
Figure 21

Check that the corner of the bumper is free once the rivets are removed. The right side is shown. The left side is similar.

Grab the corner of the bumper cover and pull it away from the fender.
Figure 22

Grab the corner of the bumper cover and pull it away from the fender. Lift up at the center of the bumper to clear the mounting bracket (green arrow) from the bumper support (red arrow). Then with help from a friend, slide the bumper off the vehicle. When installing the bumper, slide the bumper body and secure the fasteners finger tight. Once the bumper corners are installed correctly, tighten the bumper fasteners and check the alignment with the body. Install the fasteners and tighten.

If needed, you can replace the bumper support by removing the 16mm fasteners (red arrow).
Figure 23

If needed, you can replace the bumper support by removing the 16mm fasteners (red arrow). The right side is shown. The left side is similar. If needed, you can replace the bumper impact supports by removing the 16mm fasteners (red arrow). Then once the bumper support has been removed, you can remove the bumper support strut fasteners (green arrow). You'll be working under the vehicle, near the mufflers.

If needed, you can replace the bumper-mounting bracket (red arrows) by unclipping them from the bumper cover and snapping new ones into place.
Figure 24

If needed, you can replace the bumper-mounting bracket (red arrows) by unclipping them from the bumper cover and snapping new ones into place.

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Comments and Suggestions:
E 55 V8 KOMPRESSOR Comments: 1 quistion got the Amg e55 need remove rwar bumber but is with parks sensor fully equipped I just wonder if there is 1 plug so I unplug them without have to remove all sensors first 1 by 1 do u by any change know that?
November 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There should be a main electrical connector to disconnect them all at once. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jack Comments: Best post by far! About a 4 hour job for me. Switching old mounting hardware and chrome strips to the new one about an hour of it. When removing chrome inserts 3, remove outer strips from the center first. There is a insert tab on the end you don't want to break off. 2005 E320.
July 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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