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Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$40

Talent:

**

Tools:

13mm wrench, 8mm socket, E10 Torx, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz C350 (2008-14)
Mercedes-Benz GLK350 (2010-14)

Parts Required:

Oil pan gasket, sealant, oil

Hot Tip:

Do NOT use anything metal between the mounting surfaces

Performance Gain:

Fixed oil leak

Complementary Modification:

Change the oil filter

While the title of the article is oil pan gasket replacement it is a bit of a misnomer. There is actually no gasket between the pan and engine but a small bead of sealant. If your pan is leaking or you have to remove it to replace the oil level sending unit you will need to clean the mounting surfaces really well and then use a good high quality sealant. I recommend Drei Bond 1209. I have used this for years with great results, and it is available at Pelican Parts. Make sure to carefully follow the instructions on the sealant you choose to use and allow it to dry and seal completely. Also you do not need to use a lot of sealant. All the extra will do is squeeze out and make a mess outside and inside the cover.

You are going to need to drain and refill the oil from the motor. If you are close to needing an oil and filter change, now is a good time to change the filter as well. Get the engine warm before draining the oil.

To begin safely jack up and support your car. Please see our article on safely jacking up and supporting your W204.

With the vehicle safely lifted and supported remove the rear engine/transmission cover by removing the six 8mm bolts (red and yellow arrows).
Figure 1

With the vehicle safely lifted and supported remove the rear engine/transmission cover by removing the six 8mm bolts (red and yellow arrows). The forward bolts also help hold the middle engine tray in place (yellow arrows).

Use a 13mm socket and remove the drain plug and crush washer (red arrow).
Figure 2

Use a 13mm socket and remove the drain plug and crush washer (red arrow). This bolt does not need a lot of toque but for some reason people really tend to over tighten the drain plug. Use care as the oil should be quite warm.

The flow of the oil will change as it starts to empty so don't just put your drain pan underneath and walk away.
Figure 3

The flow of the oil will change as it starts to empty so don't just put your drain pan underneath and walk away.

When all the oil has drained install a new drain bolt and crush washer and torque to spec.
Figure 4

When all the oil has drained install a new drain bolt and crush washer and torque to spec. I do this now so I don't forget.

Remove the sixteen E10 Torx bolts (red arrows).
Figure 5

Remove the sixteen E10 Torx bolts (red arrows). Unless the sealant has completely failed the pan will stay firmly affixed to the engine.

If you do not want to install the drain plug and washer at this point at the very least install the old one (red arrow) to prevent accidental spilling of oil out of the plug while you are removing the bolts (yellow arrow) and pan.
Figure 6

If you do not want to install the drain plug and washer at this point at the very least install the old one (red arrow) to prevent accidental spilling of oil out of the plug while you are removing the bolts (yellow arrow) and pan.

With all of the bolts off you will need to use one of them and screw it into the forcing bore, which is located on the front of the pan (red arrow, looks like a small nut welded on to the pan).
Figure 7

With all of the bolts off you will need to use one of them and screw it into the forcing bore, which is located on the front of the pan (red arrow, looks like a small nut welded on to the pan). This will force the pan away from the motor and help break the seal.

Use a series of wedges (red arrow) once the bolt has started separating the pan from the engine.
Figure 8

Use a series of wedges (red arrow) once the bolt has started separating the pan from the engine. The factory sealant has quite a bond so you may have to use a little heat from a hot air gun to help if you have one. Whatever you do, do NOT place anything metal between the pan and engine that could scrap or mar the mounting surfaces. Once the pan lets go be prepared because there will be a little oil left in it.

Carefully and thoroughly clean both mounting surfaces on the engine and pan.
Figure 9

Carefully and thoroughly clean both mounting surfaces on the engine and pan. Also if sealant has gotten into the bolt holes in the bottom of the engine carefully clean these out.

With everything clean and dry apply a small bead of sealant to the pan and install.
Figure 10

With everything clean and dry apply a small bead of sealant to the pan and install. The torque value on the pan is very small so you do not need to worry about torqueing in a crisscross pattern but it doesn't hurt. I recommend Drei Bond 1209. I have used this for years with great results, and it is available at Pelican Parts. Make sure to carefully follow the instructions on the sealant you choose to use and allow it to dry and seal completely. Also you do not need to use a lot of sealant. All the extra will do is squeeze out and make a mess outside and inside the cover. Installation is the reverse of removal, and do not forget to refill your motor oil!


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