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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Bearing Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

5 hours5 hrs

Tab:

$60 to $320

Talent:

****

Tools:

32mm 12 point socket, 21mm, 18mm, 13mm wrench, 5mm Allen M12 12 point, 15mm socket, large breaker bar or impact wrench, bearing puller

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz C250 (2012-14)
Mercedes-Benz C300 (2008-14)
Mercedes-Benz C350 (2008-14)

Parts Required:

Wheel bearing

Hot Tip:

Buy, rent or borrow the right puller

Performance Gain:

Proper axle performance

Complementary Modification:

Replace front bearings

If you are getting a sound from your rear wheels like a small jet trying to take off and it increases with the speed of the vehicle you may need a new rear wheel bearing.

The wheel hub and bearing are two separate pieces and you will end up destroying the bearing when removing the hub. The hub is a press fit into the bearing and you will need a proper bearing puller to separate them. There is also a very good chance that the part of the inner bearing is going to come off on the hub and while there are several ways to remove it, the hub is very expensive so make sure you do not damage it while trying.

Begin by safely raising and supporting your vehicle. Then remove the rear tires. Please see our article on safely raising and supporting your car. You are going to have to move the axle out from the bearing to replace it.

When removing the axle you will need loosen the 32mm 12 point nut (yellow arrow), if you do not have an impact gun the best way to do this is pop off the center cap on the wheel and with the wheel on and the vehicle on the ground use a very large breaker bar and loosen the nut before raising the vehicle.
Figure 1

When removing the axle you will need loosen the 32mm 12 point nut (yellow arrow), if you do not have an impact gun the best way to do this is pop off the center cap on the wheel and with the wheel on and the vehicle on the ground use a very large breaker bar and loosen the nut before raising the vehicle. If you already have the wheels off and the vehicle in the air, the brake caliper (red arrow) does not have enough force to hold the hub while trying to use a breaker bar on it.

The axle collar nut will have a section of it that is folded into a gap in the axle, use a punch and tap the metal out (red arrow).
Figure 2

The axle collar nut will have a section of it that is folded into a gap in the axle, use a punch and tap the metal out (red arrow). This will allow you to remove the 32mm 12 point collar nut.

You will need to remove the brake caliper, pads, rotor, sensors and parking brake to get access to the two 5mm Allen bolts (yellow arrows) and the two 13mm bolts (blue arrows) that hold the dust shield on.
Figure 3

You will need to remove the brake caliper, pads, rotor, sensors and parking brake to get access to the two 5mm Allen bolts (yellow arrows) and the two 13mm bolts (blue arrows) that hold the dust shield on. Please see all of our articles on removing the brake and parking brake system for additional assistance and make sure to safely hang the caliper up out of the way (red arrow), never let it hang by the brake line.

Once you have removed the parking brake, remove the 5mm Allen on the rear of the carrier and pull the parking cable backwards, this will allow you to unfold the spreader (red arrows) and remove the small pin holding it to the cable.
Figure 4

Once you have removed the parking brake, remove the 5mm Allen on the rear of the carrier and pull the parking cable backwards, this will allow you to unfold the spreader (red arrows) and remove the small pin holding it to the cable. Remove this and pass the cable back and out of the carrier.

Place a floor jack under the swing control arm and raise the suspension up until the axle is almost level.
Figure 5

Place a floor jack under the swing control arm and raise the suspension up until the axle is almost level. Use a proper bearing puller, in our case a standard three arm puller worked fine, and pull the hub (red arrow) out from the bearing. Make sure that the 32mm nut is off to allow the hub to "walk" out from the bearing. There is a good chance the outer race of the hub bearing will come off on the hub; you will deal with this later.

With the dust shield free to move you can spin it around and remove the camber strut (red arrow), torque strut (yellow arrow), tie rod (blue arrow) and the control arm (not shown) where the connect to the wheel carrier.
Figure 6

With the dust shield free to move you can spin it around and remove the camber strut (red arrow), torque strut (yellow arrow), tie rod (blue arrow) and the control arm (not shown) where the connect to the wheel carrier.

Lower the jack and pull the wheel carrier forward, it should be pulled outward and down freeing the axle from the carrier.
Figure 7

Lower the jack and pull the wheel carrier forward, it should be pulled outward and down freeing the axle from the carrier.

Pulling the wheel carrier outward (red arrow) will give you enough room to access the four E12 Torx bolts.
Figure 8

Pulling the wheel carrier outward (red arrow) will give you enough room to access the four E12 Torx bolts.

Remove the four E12 Torx bolts (red arrows) holding the bearing to the wheel carrier.
Figure 9

Remove the four E12 Torx bolts (red arrows) holding the bearing to the wheel carrier.

Remember that Mercedes considers these bolts to be single use only so order new bolts when ordering the bearing.
Figure 10

Remember that Mercedes considers these bolts to be single use only so order new bolts when ordering the bearing.

One of the races from the bearing (yellow arrow) will probably come off on the hub (red arrow).
Figure 11

One of the races from the bearing (yellow arrow) will probably come off on the hub (red arrow). There are several ways you can remove this; if there is a small gap you can get a bearing separator tool in there; you can use a Dremel to cut the race but you need to be very careful not to damage the hub. At the end of the day I took our project car's hub to a suspension shop and they had it safely off in a matter of minutes using an air hammer.

Make sure to give the bearing mounting area in the wheel carrier a good cleaning before installing the new bearing.
Figure 12

Make sure to give the bearing mounting area in the wheel carrier a good cleaning before installing the new bearing. Installation is the reverse of removal and now would be a good time to get your alignment checked.

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