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Rear Stabilizer Bar and Drop Link Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Stabilizer Bar and Drop Link Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$25 to $400

Talent:

**

Tools:

18mm, 16mm, 15mm, 13mm wrenches, M12 twelve point, E12 Torx, vice grips

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz C250 (2012-14)
Mercedes-Benz C300 (2008-14)
Mercedes-Benz C350 (2008-14)

Parts Required:

Stabilizer bar, drop link

Hot Tip:

Inspect the links the next time you raise your car

Performance Gain:

Tighter handling

Complementary Modification:

Inspect the multilink suspension

The rear stabilizer and sway bar links (sometimes referred to drop links) on the Mercedes-Benz W204 connect the vehicle stabilizer bar (or sway bar) to the control arms. Over time, the connecting link wears out and will get play in the ends. When they begin to fail, you may have a knocking noise when driving over bumps. If you suspect your stabilizer link is going bad, jack up the rear of the vehicle and wiggle the wheel back and forth, while wiggling the wheel, listen for a noise from the link. If no noise is heard, place your hand around the ends of the link and monitor for looseness as you wiggle the wheel.

The rear sway bar on the W204 has the bushings and mount vulcanized to the bar and you can no longer replace the bushings separately. While this is more expensive, the new vulcanized bushing very seldom fails and people usually only have to remove the bar when they go to upgrade to an after market system. The bushings in the links do fail but they are easy to replace.

Begin by safely raising and supporting the vehicle. Please see our article on jacking up and supporting your W204. Remove the rear tires. The stabilizer bar is not under stress or pressure so you do not need to worry about things moving with the links off.

This photo shows the drop link (red arrow) and how it attaches to the sway bar on the top (yellow arrow) and the control arm on the bottom (blue arrow).
Figure 1

This photo shows the drop link (red arrow) and how it attaches to the sway bar on the top (yellow arrow) and the control arm on the bottom (blue arrow). This photo is for DEMONSTRATION purposes only: you do NOT need to remove any of the wheel carrier components to replace the links or sway bar.

This photo shows the sway bar (red arrow) and how it attaches to the sub-frame on the top (yellow arrow) and the drop link on the bottom (blue arrow).
Figure 2

This photo shows the sway bar (red arrow) and how it attaches to the sub-frame on the top (yellow arrow) and the drop link on the bottom (blue arrow). This photo is for DEMONSTRATION purposes only: you do NOT need to remove any of the wheel carrier components to replace the links or sway bar.

To remove the drop link use an E12 Torx (red arrow) and 13mm wrench (yellow arrow) and remove the lower connecting bolt.
Figure 3

To remove the drop link use an E12 Torx (red arrow) and 13mm wrench (yellow arrow) and remove the lower connecting bolt. The sway bar is not under tension so you are safe to remove this link.

Use a 16mm wrench and remove the nut on the rear of the link to sway bar connection (red arrow).
Figure 4

Use a 16mm wrench and remove the nut on the rear of the link to sway bar connection (red arrow).

With the nut removed the link just pulls out of the bar and control arm.
Figure 5

With the nut removed the link just pulls out of the bar and control arm.

This link is fine but the bushings on the top and bottom do fail over time.
Figure 6

This link is fine but the bushings on the top and bottom do fail over time. If you are just replacing the drop links installation is the reverse of removal.

The removal of the sway bar calls for a M12 twelve point.
Figure 7

The removal of the sway bar calls for a M12 twelve point. There is very little room between the mount and the chassis and I could not fit my socket in the space allotted.

I used an 18mm wrench (red arrow) to loosen the nut on the mount and then placed some vice grips on the bolt to fully remove the nut from the bolt.
Figure 8

I used an 18mm wrench (red arrow) to loosen the nut on the mount and then placed some vice grips on the bolt to fully remove the nut from the bolt.

The bushings (red arrow) are vulcanized to the bar and you must replace the whole bar when they fail, the nice thing is these mounts very, very seldom fail as the link bushings are the weak spot.
Figure 9

The bushings (red arrow) are vulcanized to the bar and you must replace the whole bar when they fail, the nice thing is these mounts very, very seldom fail as the link bushings are the weak spot. If you are removing the bar you need to walk both bolts out and due to the enclosed space, work both sides of the bar until you can clear the mount from the sub-frame bracket and then remove the bar form the vehicle. Installation is the reverse of removal.

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