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Rear Brake Caliper Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Brake Caliper Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

200

Talent:

**

Tools:

7mm Allen, 14mm, 11mm flared nut wrench, pliers, catch bottle, hose, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, lug wrench, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz C250 (2012-14)
Mercedes-Benz C300 (2008-14)
Mercedes-Benz C350 (2008-14)

Parts Required:

Caliper

Hot Tip:

You must bleed the brake system after installation

Performance Gain:

Car stops better

Complementary Modification:

Bleed the brake system

With proper maintenance of your braking system your brake calipers will last a very long time. Besides being damaged in an accident or by some form of road debris calipers usually start to fail around the seals and dust boots. If you see fluid starting to leak out from around the dust boot or the dust boot is torn and the piston is starting to get corrosion on it, it is time to change your calipers right away. Never drive your vehicle with a leaking brake piston.

Safely jack up and support the rear of the vehicle, and remove the rear wheel. Please see our article on safely lifting and supporting your Mercedes W204.

While you are going to be opening the system to air you absolutely need to completely bleed the brake system before you operate the vehicle. While some fluid is going to leak out one of the things you can do to help minimize the loses is to press the brake pedal down an inch or two, and use a piece of wood between the seat and pedal to hold the pedal in this position. This will help with the loss of fluid.

The rear brakes on the W204 are comprised of floating calipers.
Figure 1

The rear brakes on the W204 are comprised of floating calipers. This means the calipers are attached to the mounts by sliding bolts and have only one piston on one side of the calipers (red arrow). As pressure is applied to the pads by the caliper pistons the calipers slide or float along the slide bolts to transfer the clamping force to the pads on the other side.

To change out the caliper begin by removing the brake pad wear sensor from the holder on the right side caliper (red arrow).
Figure 2

To change out the caliper begin by removing the brake pad wear sensor from the holder on the right side caliper (red arrow).

Pull the wear sensor straight out from the mount on the caliper (red arrow).
Figure 3

Pull the wear sensor straight out from the mount on the caliper (red arrow). Then remove it from the pad (yellow arrow). You should be able to pull it from the pad by hand but if it is stuck use a set of small needle nose pliers to remove it using care if you are planning on reusing the sensor. If you are reusing your pads before the wear sensor has activated there is no reason why you cannot reuse it. If it has worn down you should be replacing both the pads and the wear sensor.

Use an E10 Torx to remove the bolt from the wear sensor housing and the housing from the caliper (red arrow).
Figure 4

Use an E10 Torx to remove the bolt from the wear sensor housing and the housing from the caliper (red arrow). You are going to be transferring this to the new caliper.

Use a set of pliers and pry the retaining spring out from the front of the caliper (red arrow).
Figure 5

Use a set of pliers and pry the retaining spring out from the front of the caliper (red arrow).

Remove the two protective caps from the slide bolts.
Figure 6

Remove the two protective caps from the slide bolts. Use a 7mm Allen to remove the bolts.

These are the bolts that the caliper slides on (red arrow).
Figure 7

These are the bolts that the caliper slides on (red arrow). They should be smooth and free from any corrosion. Clean up the bolts with a little Emory paper, and lubricate them before reinstalling them in the new caliper.

Depending on how worn your rotors and pads are you will need to compress the piston back into the caliper.
Figure 8

Depending on how worn your rotors and pads are you will need to compress the piston back into the caliper. Since you are going to have to bleed the system there is no need to push dirty old fluid back into the system. Use a 11mm flared nut wrench (yellow arrow) to open the bleed nipple when compressing the piston back to make room to remove the caliper. Always only use a flared nut wrench on bleed nipples and brake lines and hoses. The wrench is designed to grasp six sides of the soft fitting and prevent stripping.

Remove the protective cap from the bleed nipple and attach a hose to the nipple and run it to a catch bottle.
Figure 9

Remove the protective cap from the bleed nipple and attach a hose to the nipple and run it to a catch bottle. Then using your 11mm flared nut wrench (red arrow) open the bleed nipple and compress the piston back into the caliper to give you enough room to clear the rotor and remove the caliper from its bracket.

With the piston compressed you can now remove the caliper form the mount.
Figure 10

With the piston compressed you can now remove the caliper form the mount. Be prepared to hang the caliper or place it on something at a height that will not put any stress on the brake hose or line. Never let the caliper hang from the brake line.

The pad on the piston side will come with metal clips that hold it in the position in the caliper and piston.
Figure 11

The pad on the piston side will come with metal clips that hold it in the position in the caliper and piston. Pull the old pad out if you are planning on reusing it in the new caliper. The pads will be marked F for front and R&L for right and left.

The outside pad will come with an anti-squeal pad on the back; this is just a sticky material that helps hold the pad in place and prevents squeals.
Figure 12

The outside pad will come with an anti-squeal pad on the back; this is just a sticky material that helps hold the pad in place and prevents squeals. Push the old pad off the caliper, clean up any residue form the old backing and install the new pad. If you are reusing the old pads you may want to install a new anti-squeal backing so make sure you have ordered it.

You are going to disconnect the brake hose or line from the caliper.
Figure 13

You are going to disconnect the brake hose or line from the caliper. You will need to spin the caliper around the line as the other end is fixed to the hard line. Fluid is going to escape from the line and caliper, and it is very slippery. Be prepared to remove the old caliper, and install the new one quickly to limit the amount of brake fluid that will escape the line. You are going to have to bleed the system. You do not want enough brake fluid draining out so you introduce air into the BAS system, or you will need to have the vehicle put into the BAS bleed mode with someone who has the proper tools. Make sure to use the proper tool. On this vehicle is a 14mm flared nut wrench (red arrow). This wrench will grasp the hose fitting on six sides and save you from damaging it.

Installation of the new caliper is the reverse of removal.
Figure 14

Installation of the new caliper is the reverse of removal. You MUST completely bleed your brake system before you drive the vehicle. Do NOT attempt to drive the car until you have completely bled the system. Please see our brake-bleeding article for additional assistance.




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