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Front Stabilizer Bar Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Front Stabilizer Bar Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$170

Talent:

**

Tools:

E12 Torx, T40 Torx, 18mm, 13mm wrench

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz C250 (2012-14)
Mercedes-Benz C300 (2008-14)
Mercedes-Benz C350 (2008-14)

Parts Required:

New stabilizer bar and hardware

Hot Tip:

Don't let the bar fall on you

Performance Gain:

Better handling

If you are starting to hear a knock sound when you go around a corner there is a good chance your sway or stabilizer bar bushings are starting to go bad. Unfortunately, the rubber bushings on the stabilizer on the W204 are vulcanized to the bar and cannot be replaced separately. This means you will need to drop the bar and replace it with a new one. All of the mounting hardware is considered single use so make sure you order new hardware when ordering the bar.

You will need to jack up the car and remove the front wheels along with the under body trays to perform this job, please see our article on safely jacking up and supporting your Mercedes.

The front stabilizer bar (red arrow) is connected to the front frame by a bracket on each side (yellow arrows) and then to the bottom of the drop links (green arrows).
Figure 1

The front stabilizer bar (red arrow) is connected to the front frame by a bracket on each side (yellow arrows) and then to the bottom of the drop links (green arrows). The bar is not under tension so you can safely remove it.

This photo shows where the stabilizer bar connects to the bottom of the drop link (yellow arrow) and where the link connects up on the strut housing (red arrow).
Figure 2

This photo shows where the stabilizer bar connects to the bottom of the drop link (yellow arrow) and where the link connects up on the strut housing (red arrow). You only need to disconnect the bar from the lower link.

The stud on the drop link will spin when you try and remove the nut so you need to hold the stud on the link in place with a T40 Torx (yellow arrow) while using an 18mm wrench to remove the nut (red arrow).
Figure 3

The stud on the drop link will spin when you try and remove the nut so you need to hold the stud on the link in place with a T40 Torx (yellow arrow) while using an 18mm wrench to remove the nut (red arrow).

There are two long E12 Torx bolts on each mount (red arrows).
Figure 4

There are two long E12 Torx bolts on each mount (red arrows).

These connect to 13mm nuts on the top (yellow arrow).
Figure 5

These connect to 13mm nuts on the top (yellow arrow). You will need to use a 13mm wrench on the top as well as an E12 Torx on the bottom bolt (red arrow). Use care when removing the last bolt, as the bar will be free at that point and you do not want it dropping on you.

If you have removed the bar to inspect it and repaint it make sure to place it on a stabile surface as it is heavy.
Figure 6

If you have removed the bar to inspect it and repaint it make sure to place it on a stabile surface as it is heavy.

The rubber in the mount is unfortunately vulcanized to the bar and mount and cannot be replaced separately.
Figure 7

The rubber in the mount is unfortunately vulcanized to the bar and mount and cannot be replaced separately. Installation of a new bar is the reverse of removal.

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Page last updated: Thu 4/27/2017 03:00:28 AM