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Front Window Regulator Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Front Window Regulator Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

6 hours6 hrs

Tab:

$220

Talent:

***

Tools:

Trim removal tool, T30, T27, T25, T20, T10 Torx driver, soldering iron, drill, rivet tool

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz C250 (2012-14)
Mercedes-Benz C300 (2008-14)
Mercedes-Benz C350 (2008-14)

Parts Required:

Door panel with window regulator, rivets

Hot Tip:

Melting the plastic is really tricky

Performance Gain:

Working windows

Complementary Modification:

Fix any broken door clips

The window regulators on the Mercedes W204 are riveted to the inner door panels and cannot be bought separately. While this is getting to be more common on modern cars, it can be very frustrating when transferring over other components like speakers or locking mechanisms that are either plastic or metal riveted to the panel. On the front door panel of the W204 you will need to drill out the speaker and air bag sensor rivets and melt the door locking "rivets" to transfer these components to the new panel.

This article will show you how to remove your front door panels to access the window regulator. It is not a difficult job, but door panels can be very expensive so take your time and double check things. Also, if you are going to be working on your own car, it is a good idea to purchase a set of trim removal tools. They are a set of hard yet flexible plastic tools of different shapes and sizes that are used in removing trim pieces. They work a lot better than a flathead screwdriver, and there is nothing worse than ruining a "do-it-yourself" project by scratching up your car or damaging expensive interior pieces. Pelican sells a full line of these tool sets for under $20.

When removing the door panel begin by placing the window down so it has about an inch of glass above the door (green arrow).
Figure 1

When removing the door panel begin by placing the window down so it has about an inch of glass above the door (green arrow). There are two trim pieces you will need to move/remove before removing the panel. One panel is the window trim piece where it meets the door panel (red arrow), and the other is the triangular speaker cover by the A-pillar (yellow arrow).

There is a fastener under the window trim piece that you will need access to.
Figure 2

There is a fastener under the window trim piece that you will need access to. Use a trim removal tool, and separate the trim piece from the weather stripping on the outside of the doorframe (red arrow).

With the trim piece out of the weather strip channel use your trim tool and separate the piece (red arrow) from the doorframe.
Figure 3

With the trim piece out of the weather strip channel use your trim tool and separate the piece (red arrow) from the doorframe. You can now access the fastener (yellow arrow). This fastener has varied over the years from a clip to a T30 Torx screw.

Next, remove the triangular cover by prying it out from the area around the mirror.
Figure 4

Next, remove the triangular cover by prying it out from the area around the mirror. If yours has been removed before you can probably do this with your hands. If not use your trim removal tool (red arrow).

With the section around the mirror loose push the piece forward (red arrow) and out from the door.
Figure 5

With the section around the mirror loose push the piece forward (red arrow) and out from the door. The piece can just hang by the small speaker wire or you can disconnect it.

Use a T30 Torx and remove the three T30 Torx bolts, one under the trim piece you removed and two below the armrest (red arrows).
Figure 6

Use a T30 Torx and remove the three T30 Torx bolts, one under the trim piece you removed and two below the armrest (red arrows).

There are nine clips (red arrow) that hold the door panel in place.
Figure 7

There are nine clips (red arrow) that hold the door panel in place. Some of these clips might break or stay in the door when you are removing it. You want to use the proper door panel trim removal tool and get as close to the clips as possible. Prying them out will take a surprising amount of force, and you want to avoid having the plastic section of the panel that holds the clips break. Also, do not pull on the panel with your hands, as you risk bending or damaging the panel itself.

This photo shows the approximate location of the clips and where you want to insert the tool.
Figure 8

This photo shows the approximate location of the clips and where you want to insert the tool. Make sure the tool is seated around the clip before prying on it.

With all the clips free you want to lift the panel up and out from the channel on the top of the door (red arrow).
Figure 9

With all the clips free you want to lift the panel up and out from the channel on the top of the door (red arrow). The door lock pull will stay on the door, so you will have to lift the panel over it.

Tilt the panel towards yourself and slide the door pull cable (red arrow) out from the support in the door panel (yellow arrow).
Figure 10

Tilt the panel towards yourself and slide the door pull cable (red arrow) out from the support in the door panel (yellow arrow). Unhook the Bowden cable from the handle (green arrow).

Unplug all the electrical connections from the control unit.
Figure 11

Unplug all the electrical connections from the control unit. Compress the clip on the front and slide the plastic plugs on the unit (red arrows) forward and out from the bracket on the door panel (yellow arrows).

Disconnect the electrical connection from the window motor (yellow arrow), and use a T25 Torx to remove the three Torx screws (red arrows).
Figure 12

Disconnect the electrical connection from the window motor (yellow arrow), and use a T25 Torx to remove the three Torx screws (red arrows).

Pull the motor out from the door panel.
Figure 13

Pull the motor out from the door panel. The motor gear (red arrow) fits within the plastic geared spindle in the regulator (yellow arrow) to drive the window up or down.

Remove the two large plugs in the door that covers the window attachment point (red arrows).
Figure 14

Remove the two large plugs in the door that covers the window attachment point (red arrows). With the motor removed you can slide the window up or down until you have access to the T27 screws that holds the window to the regulator. Remove the screws and then pull the window all the way to the top, and tape it securely in place.

This photo shows the T27 Torx screw that clamps the window to the regulator (red arrow).
Figure 15

This photo shows the T27 Torx screw that clamps the window to the regulator (red arrow). Make sure you do not strip this screw when removing it, or you will be in for a heck of a time getting the window separated from the regulator.

Disconnect the connection for the air bag sensor (red arrow).
Figure 16

Disconnect the connection for the air bag sensor (red arrow). The harness is not free from the door panel but still attached to the doorframe (yellow arrow).

Use a T30 Torx and remove the three Torx screws holding the latch/lock in place (red arrows).
Figure 17

Use a T30 Torx and remove the three Torx screws holding the latch/lock in place (red arrows).

You will need to remove the door handles, so please see our article on door handle removal for additional assistance.
Figure 18

You will need to remove the door handles, so please see our article on door handle removal for additional assistance. With the door handles removed remove the two gaskets and loosen the T20 screws underneath (red arrows). Using hand pressure on the screws slide the backing plate towards the front of the door.

You now need to drill out all of the stainless steel rivets along the outer section of the panel (red arrows).
Figure 19

You now need to drill out all of the stainless steel rivets along the outer section of the panel (red arrows). Do not drill out any rivets on the inside section of the panel (yellow arrow).

Remove the panel from the doorframe and transfer all of the components over to the new panel (rear panel shown).
Figure 20

Remove the panel from the doorframe and transfer all of the components over to the new panel (rear panel shown). Use care, as you will need to melt the plastic rivets for the locking mechanism but leave enough on the rivets that you can reattach it to the new panel (green arrows). Make sure to pass the cables and electrical wires through and install the grommets in the opening (yellow arrows) before re-melting in the rivet. Installation is the reverse of removal, and you will need to rivet the panel back on to the door.

Check the panel before reinstalling it to make sure all the clips are in the panel (yellow arrows) and not the door.
Figure 21

Check the panel before reinstalling it to make sure all the clips are in the panel (yellow arrows) and not the door. This photo shows the location of the clips. You can see where two of the clips remained in the doorframe when we removed the panel (red arrows).

If a clip remains in the door simply remove it and reinstall it along with the rubber isolator (red arrow) back into the mount in the panel (yellow arrow).
Figure 22

If a clip remains in the door simply remove it and reinstall it along with the rubber isolator (red arrow) back into the mount in the panel (yellow arrow). Installation is the reverse of removal.


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