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Rear Door Control Unit Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Door Control Unit Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$325

Talent:

**

Tools:

Trim removal tool, T30, T25 Torx driver

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz C250 (2012-14)
Mercedes-Benz C300 (2008-14)
Mercedes-Benz C350 (2008-14)

Parts Required:

Control Unit

Hot Tip:

Pry as close to the clips as possible

Performance Gain:

Access to other components

Complementary Modification:

Detail the interior

There is a door control unit mounted to the inside door component carrier that controls the functions of the components on the door. As the name implies, it is also used for diagnosing trouble with the systems on the door. Unlike the front door you must remove the rear door panel to get any access to the unit. This article will show you how to remove the door panel as well as replace the control unit.

If you are going to be working on your own car, it is a good idea to purchase a set of trim removal tools. They are a set of hard yet flexible plastic tools of different shapes and sizes that are used in removing trim pieces. They work much better than a flathead screwdriver, and there is nothing worse than ruining a "do-it-yourself" project by scratching up your car or damaging expensive interior pieces. Pelican sells a full line of these tool sets for under $20.

Begin by using a T30 Torx and removing the two T30 Torx bolts under the armrest (red arrows).
Figure 1

Begin by using a T30 Torx and removing the two T30 Torx bolts under the armrest (red arrows).

There are eight clips (red arrow) that hold the door panel in place.
Figure 2

There are eight clips (red arrow) that hold the door panel in place.

Some of these clips might break or stay in the door when you are removing the door panel.
Figure 3

Some of these clips might break or stay in the door when you are removing the door panel. You should use the proper door panel trim removal tool and get as close to the clips as possible. Prying them out will take a surprising amount of force, and you want to avoid having the plastic section of the panel that holds the clips break. Also, do not pull on the panel with your hands, as you risk bending or damaging the panel itself.

Lift the door panel up and out of the window channel starting at the rear and working your way forward.
Figure 4

Lift the door panel up and out of the window channel starting at the rear and working your way forward. With the panel off reach in and squeeze the two clips on the Bowden cable together, and release the cable from the mount. Slide it out of the opening in the panel (yellow arrow).

Remove the door pull cable from the panel by pulling it back and slipping it out from the cable mount (red arrow) and then lifting it up out of the handle (yellow arrow).
Figure 5

Remove the door pull cable from the panel by pulling it back and slipping it out from the cable mount (red arrow) and then lifting it up out of the handle (yellow arrow).

Unplug the electrical connections from the control unit (red arrow).
Figure 6

Unplug the electrical connections from the control unit (red arrow).

This photo shows the location of the control unit (red arrow).
Figure 7

This photo shows the location of the control unit (red arrow).

Disconnect the remaining connections by pressing on the small tabs and removing them from the control unit (red arrow).
Figure 8

Disconnect the remaining connections by pressing on the small tabs and removing them from the control unit (red arrow). They are color coordinated so do not worry about labeling them.

Use a T25 Torx and remove the two Torx screws holding the unit in place.
Figure 9

Use a T25 Torx and remove the two Torx screws holding the unit in place. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Check the door panel to make sure the clips are in the panel and not the door.
Figure 10

Check the door panel to make sure the clips are in the panel and not the door. This photo shows the location of the clips.

If a clip remains in the door simply remove it and reinstall it along with the rubber isolator (red arrow) back into the mount in the panel (yellow arrow).
Figure 11

If a clip remains in the door simply remove it and reinstall it along with the rubber isolator (red arrow) back into the mount in the panel (yellow arrow). Installation is the reverse of removal.


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Comments and Suggestions:
Glen Comments: It was the bearing. Well that's what they called it. Found the lever from the cable pull metal was slipping under the door handle pull tab. Why I dunno not sure. Put the new bearing plate on and worked fine. Thought maybe the Cable needed to be adj so that lever goes goes higher. But customer wanted new one to rule out something being broken in there as he had work done to that door when he first bought it. And had to pull robots to repair so figure go with new part to rule out. If slips again we might try the cable threaded adjustment or a new outside handle pull
February 11, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
glen Comments: 2012 c250 right rear door opens from inside, lock works but wont open from outside handle? trying to see where outer handle opens door to actuator. and what possible reasons it could be and check fro availability of parts before opening door
February 9, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There should be a Bowden cable. It may be detached. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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