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Replacing Front Control Arms
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing Front Control Arms

Steve Vernon

Time:

5 hours5 hrs

Tab:

$35 to $350

Talent:

***

Tools:

Jack, jack stands, 21mm, 22mm Socket, 8mm, 12mm Allen key, 7mm, 16mm, 21mm wrench

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz W203 (2001-07)

Parts Required:

New control arms or bushings

Hot Tip:

Get an alignment after

Performance Gain:

Better handling

Complementary Modification:

Install performance struts and springs

The front suspension on the Mercedes W203 have two control arms on each side that attach to the steering knuckle and the chassis, an upper and lower.

The control arm has two areas of trouble; The ball joint that connects to steering knuckle and the control arm bushing, that connects it to the chassis. Keep in mind, the bushings have to be replaced in pairs. Inspect your control arm or ball joints for looseness by jacking up the front your vehicle and moving the wheel side to side. If you feel looseness in the attachment points, this indicates you have a problem. You may need help from a friend to watch the control arm components while you wiggle the wheel. The bushing can dry out, rot, split and crack. The one in our project car was completely shot and should have been replaced long before we got to it. A bad bushing may also give you a brake shake when you first apply the brakes at cruising speed, or a knocking sound. While you can change out just the bushing on the control arm, if the ball joint is bad you will need to purchase a new control arm

You will need to jack up the car and remove the front wheels to perform this job; please see our article on safely jacking up and supporting your Mercedes. With the car safely supported remove the engine tray.

All of the hardware (nuts and bolts) are single use only. Mercedes micro encapsulates their hardware with a binding agent and even though lots of people clean up the threads, apply some blue Loctite and reuse the bolts, Pelican recommends you purchase all new hardware.

You are going to have to remove the strut from the steering knuckle to get access to the control arms. It is a good idea to support the knuckle with something while working, I like to insert a lug back into the rotor and support the assembly with a bungee cord off the spring. You can do this if you are going to replace one arm at a time. Do not remove both arms at the same time or the knuckle will put too much press on the tie rod and brake line and you will damage them.

There is a drop link that attaches the sway bar to the strut. You will need to remove the link from where it attaches to the strut by holding the large nut with a 16mm wrench and turning the smaller inner bolt with a 7mm and push the link out of the strut and set it aside.

Remove the single large nut and bolt from the steering knuckle to strut with a 22mm socket and a 12mm Allen to hold the bolt.

There are two 21mm bolts holding the strut to the lower part of the steering knuckle. Remove these taking care that the steering knuckle does not swing out and hit something once free of the strut.

Next you will need to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Use a 21mm socket and remove the nut. You should not have to use a pickle fork here. Leave the nut threaded on the end of the joint to protect it and give it a light tap with a hammer; that should break it loose. If you need to use a pickle fork you will probably damage the rubber boot on the ball joint and have to replace the entire control arm.

To remove the control arm from its mount on the chassis you will first have to remove the sway bar bracket. Using an E12 reverse Torq unscrew the mounting bracket and move it off to the side.

Next use a 21mm wrench and socket to remove the nut and bolt holding the control arm to the body.

Pull the control arm down and out of the mount.

If the control arm is not bent and the ball joint is fine you can just replace the bushing. The bushings are known to be a weak point on the W203s and should be inspected every 30,000 miles.

If you have a press you can easily press the old ones out and news ones in, just make sure you press around the edge of the bushing and not on the rubber section, this will destroy your new bushings. If you do not own a press you can still save some money by taking the arms along with the new bushings to a shop. Most shops will press the old ones out and the new ones in for a nominal fee.

To remove the lower control arm you must follow the same steps as removing the upper. Make sure the strut is free from the steering knuckle and remove the 21mm ball joint nut and then the 21mm nut and bolt holding it to the chassis mount. Don't forget you can not leave the steering knuckle hanging by the tie rod and brake line; you WILL damage them if you do that.

Begin by removing the six 8mm nuts holding the engine tray on.
Figure 1

Begin by removing the six 8mm nuts holding the engine tray on.

You are going to have to remove the strut from the steering knuckle to get access to the control arms.
Figure 2

You are going to have to remove the strut from the steering knuckle to get access to the control arms. It is a good idea to support the knuckle with something while working, I like to insert a lug back into the rotor and support the assembly with a bungee cord off the spring. You can do this if you are going to replace one arm at a time. Do not remove both arms at the same time or the knuckle will put to much press on the tie rod and brake line and you will damage them.

There is a drop link that attaches the sway bar (red arrow) to the strut (yellow arrow).
Figure 3

There is a drop link that attaches the sway bar (red arrow) to the strut (yellow arrow).

You will need to remove the link from where it attaches to the strut by holding the large nut (red arrow) with a 16mm wrench and turning the smaller inner bolt (yellow arrow) with a 7mm.
Figure 4

You will need to remove the link from where it attaches to the strut by holding the large nut (red arrow) with a 16mm wrench and turning the smaller inner bolt (yellow arrow) with a 7mm.

Push the link out of the strut (red arrow) and set aside (I like to reattach the hardware when possible (yellow arrow) to make finding it for reassembly easier).
Figure 5

Push the link out of the strut (red arrow) and set aside (I like to reattach the hardware when possible (yellow arrow) to make finding it for reassembly easier).

Remove the single large nut (yellow arrow) and bolt from the steering knuckle to strut with a 22mm socket and a 12mm Allen to hold the bolt.
Figure 6

Remove the single large nut (yellow arrow) and bolt from the steering knuckle to strut with a 22mm socket and a 12mm Allen to hold the bolt.

There are two 21mm bolts (yellow arrows) holding the strut to the lower part of the steering knuckle.
Figure 7

There are two 21mm bolts (yellow arrows) holding the strut to the lower part of the steering knuckle. Remove these taking care that the steering knuckle does not swing out and hit something once free of the strut.

This photo illustrates where the upper control arm connects to the steering knuckle (red arrow), the chassis (yellow arrows) and the sway bar bracket (green arrow) that will need to be removed to get to the chassis bolt.
Figure 8

This photo illustrates where the upper control arm connects to the steering knuckle (red arrow), the chassis (yellow arrows) and the sway bar bracket (green arrow) that will need to be removed to get to the chassis bolt.

Next you will need to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Figure 9

Next you will need to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Use a 21mm socket and remove the nut. You should not have to use a pickle fork here. Leave the nut threaded on the end of the joint to protect it and give it a light tap with a hammer; that should break it loose. If you need to use a pickle fork you will probably damage the rubber boot on the ball joint and have to replace the entire control arm.

To remove the control arm from its mount on the chassis you will first have to remove the sway bar bracket.
Figure 10

To remove the control arm from its mount on the chassis you will first have to remove the sway bar bracket. Using an E12 reverse Torq unscrew the mounting bracket and move it off to the side.

Next use a 21mm wrench and socket to remove the nut and bolt holding the control arm to the body.
Figure 11

Next use a 21mm wrench and socket to remove the nut and bolt holding the control arm to the body.

Pull the control arm down and out of the mount.
Figure 12

Pull the control arm down and out of the mount. If the control arm is not bent and the ball joint is fine you can just replace the bushing.

The bushings are known to be a weak point on the W203s and should be inspected every 30,000 miles.
Figure 13

The bushings are known to be a weak point on the W203s and should be inspected every 30,000 miles. This bushing is shot as you can see by the damage (red arrows).

If you have a press you can easily press the old ones out and news ones in, just make sure you press around the edge of the bushing and not on the rubber section, this will destroy your new bushings.
Figure 14

If you have a press you can easily press the old ones out and news ones in, just make sure you press around the edge of the bushing and not on the rubber section, this will destroy your new bushings. If you do not own a press you can still save some money by taking the arms along with the new bushings to a shop. Most shops will press the old ones out and the new ones in for a nominal fee.

To remove the lower control arm you must follow the same steps as removing the upper.
Figure 15

To remove the lower control arm you must follow the same steps as removing the upper. Make sure the strut is free from the steering knuckle and remove the 21mm ball joint nut (red arrow) and then the 21mm nut and bolt holding it to the chassis mount (yellow arrow). Don't forget you can not leave the steering knuckle hanging by the tie rod and brake line; you WLL damage them if you do that.

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Comments and Suggestions:
MannyMassalino Comments: Have to replace lower control arm on 2002 S430.
The bushings wore out. I want to replace myself. Any suggestion? Should I replace both sides?
November 17, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would do both. That way the bushings are at the same age.

Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mikey Comments: Hello gents, wonder if you could help.
In the last 10 months I have replaced BOTH lower control arms and BOTH drop links. The car Mercedes C180 - W203 still has a slight knock from the nearside front when going over bumps/irregularities especially at low speeds. Jacked the car up and the nearside front wheel has a little bit of play in it when moved side to side. The offside has no play whatsoever.
Before I fork out more dosh, would you be able to pinpoint the fault from that description?
Thanks.
November 14, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be a faulty strut. Try pushing the suspension up and down, is the knock present? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mansour123 Comments: How many control arm bushes do I need to replace on the 203 for the stability of the car to be in order? I recently replaced knuckle bushes but the car is not stable @ all
August 31, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would think only the faulty ones. I would inspect the front end for loose or dry-rotted bushings. Replace what you find wrong. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
relhoks Comments: There is nothing said about compressing the springs spring comressor. Is that not a MUST.
May 22, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The spring is captured in the strut, not on the lower control arm. it will stay put when removing the lower control arm. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tony L Comments: Good evening, I read you article on control arm front replacement with interest, just completed mine on 2001 w203 c180. Great site,
Can you supply the stut to knuckle fastness, Allen bolt nut and washers plus the two 19mm bolts, is so how much?
Regards
Tony Lewis
May 16, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I’m not the best with part numbers.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-310-626-8765 - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
colonel Comments: Very useful information . I am looking at replacing my front lower arm for c230 2003 sedan compressor. I intend to buy the parts online but dont have a full parts list. I would have to ship these to Ghana so dont want to leave out anything. Can you help with a parts list? Thanks !
May 2, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I’m not the best with part numbers.

Give our parts specialists a call. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.

1-310-626-8765

- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Greyfox Comments: Just a follow up on the 4matic. You do have to lower one side of the steering rack to remove the control arm bolt.
February 6, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Grey Fox Comments: What's the trick to getting bolts out of lower control arm on a 4 matic 03 c320, do you have to move the steering rack? Maybe take out tie rod?
January 25, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Remove the ball joint fastener. Then the drive axle. That should give clearance. We don't currently have that tech article. If we get a chance to perform the procedure, we will be sure to document it.

I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mercedes c240 2002 Comments: Great job but i have a problem with it .. the sway bar link nut won't come loose ... it's stuck and i tried every thing to loosen it but nothing ... the strut bolt too is to tight ... i need any thing to help me loosen booth ... i can't use heat so is there any good spry ?
January 15, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No heat, isn't a good idea. Try soaking it with penetrating oil, then using a six-point socket on abreaker bar. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Frank Comments: Thanks for the advice Nick. Problem was the rims in the front. One of them caused the vibration. Balancing did not help so I moved them to the rear. That solved the problem.
Your articles helped me a lot. Best regards. Frank
January 5, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Frank Comments: Dear gentleman of Pelican Parts. Please ad your advice.
I changed the upper control arms just a few weeks ago including strut and mounts, sway bar and links but i still notice a vibration, sometimes a shake or knocking sound when breaking firmly coming from front. Could this be the lower steel control arms? Last replacement was 70K km ago. I do mostly highway driving.
Wheel feels tight when jacked up and moved.
Thank you in advance.
December 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like something is lose. I would suspect the connection points at the subframe. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Frank Comments: Thanks for the clear overview gentleman. Did my car few days ago. Took me 6 hours for both.
One important tip for all. Not sure if its mentioned.
Do not tight the control arm bolt the one who goes trough bushing before you have the car on the wheels!
You have to tight this bolt when the suspension is in normal position.
If you tight it when springs are stretched, once in normal position the force at the bushing when spring goes in will be too big and will make them deform/rip.
December 8, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mskoropat Comments: First off, great tech article. Everything was explained very well. It did indeed take about 5 hours to do both arms on both sides. The parts list was nearly spot on, but be prepared to have a few extra tools available, I had to use just a few that I didn't know I would need. But the main tool you might need is an air hammer and an air impact wrench. The wrench is for loosening stubborn damn you Mercedes!! bolts. The air hammer is for breaking loose PITA ball joints. I used a pickle fork ball joint separator to no avail, ended up using an air hammer with a punch bit to knock them loose. I nearly pulled my hair out before I figured this out. But I got all 4 arms replaced in 5 hours, including 2 trips to the parts store for additional tools and figuring out how to knock the ball joints loose. Thanks to this article I was able to get it done. Thanks Pelican Parts!!!!!
November 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
NewShockerGuy Comments: Thank you for this!

I own a clk320 and had to replace the lower/upper control arms on both sides. I found that I didn't have a 12mm hex on the strut, rather a E-torq bolt, just like everywhere else on the car.

Great help though! Found the hardest part was those dinky little 7mm on the sway bar endlinks. Such a silly and EASILY strippable item.
October 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think it depends on if they have been replaced before. Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Da Popolo Comments: So to be clear, the spring has to be removed?
October 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The strut, with the spring still captured by it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
djt100 Comments: Would be good to show the torque the bolt need to to tightened to when putting this all back together
September 28, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff:
I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
spyguy Comments: I have the Hayes manual and it is not even close to this in depth for removal of the control arms. Thanks for the great instructional.
September 12, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
KannyKenny Comments: If replacing only the lower control arm there is NO need to disconnect the the strut from the knuckle.The balljoint is accessable without dismantling.been there and done it!
September 12, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Chris Comments: Hi Nick, In regards to the previous comment about the camber adjustment bolt. How do I know which is the correct camber adjustment to choose? Thanks!
August 30, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will have to use an alignment machine. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Stuts Comments: The slot down the length of the bolt is ONLY for the camber adjustment, not peening the nut. Inside the bushing are two tabs that align with the slots- which if you look closely are NOT centered on the bolt axis. Install the bolt either centered, or to one side of the bushing slot or the other +.4 degrees, 0, or -.4 degrees but never turn it. Only tighten the nut. Locktite never hurts.
July 14, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Grey Fox Comments: I'm about to fix my friends '03 and wanted to know what else he screwed up when he broke a ball joint. I'm replacing tie rod ends but I'm worried about the steering rack. Is there a way i test it? What else do you think I should replace? Any info is greatly appreciated.
May 15, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can check for play in the rack bushings or leaks. That is about it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Drew Comments: So your saying I can use a bungee cord to hoLd the tension struts tension? I don't need to cLamp the spring? I have an 01 C240 and was told I need to clamp the spring just wondering if your method would work on my car wouLd be great because I'm not very interested in buying clamps I'm probabLy never going to use!
Cheers!
April 13, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The spring has to be removed using a spring compressor, not bungee cords. The author used the bungee to support the suspension as you remove fasteners, so nothing falls out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JJ Comments: Hello,

Don't you need to remove the spring on the SLK320 to perform this repair since the shock and spring are sperate?

Thank you
April 1, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If there is pressure on the arm from the spring, yes. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Marc Comments: Hello Nick, Wayne... I'm replacing lower control arm aka cross strut. It appears from your pictures that the sway bar bracket removal is only required for upper control arm aka torque strut to get to chassis bolt. If true, then pictures 1-7 and 15 for lower control arm - correct?

Do you have any suggestions for loosening nuts because of Mercedes binding agent - heat or WD-40? Does Pelican sell hardware nuts and bolts used in this job?

December 8, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You follow the same steps as the other: Se these notes:

We do have the fasteners. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Nikalay Comments: Hello, i need information about control arm, is american c240 RWD control arm compatible to europian c270 RWD diesel engine?
December 2, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't know.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
LOURANCE Comments: CAN HELP ME ABOUT TO KNOW WHAT DEFFERENT BETWEN C240 AND C240 4 MATIC IN ANTERIOR PARTS I AM CALLING FROM MEDDILE EAST MAN SAUDI ARABIA WHATTING YOUR HELP
November 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The interiors should be the same, if they are the same year and option packages. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
lourace Comments: I need to know if c240 4matic 2005 same control arm because I wanna website to order all left side from may car wich accident to high bildenge in left anterior driver side need your help
November 19, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't believe so.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Kyle Comments: I'll take that answer as a "we don't know". The 06-07 c230 sport is still considered a W203.
November 12, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Right, we're not sure. But I'm guessing that it's very similar in nature. There was a time (a long time ago) when I wrote all of the tech articles myself and could answer freely on any topic. But we have eight writers now, and it's much harder to shoot from the hip! - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
Kyle Comments: Does this also apply to 2006-2007 C230 Sport? Is the 5 hour estimate per side or both?

Thanks!
November 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This tech article applies to:
C320 (1998-2004)
E320 (1998-2004)
S320 (1998-2005)
ML320 (1998-2003)
CLK320 (1998-2004)
SLK320 (1998-2003)
C230K (2003-2005) - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
willie Comments: How you replace Upper control arms for a Mercedes Ben E320 1997 passenger side I really need help please thank you.
October 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We don't currently have that tech article. If we get a chance to perform the procedure, we will be sure to document it.

I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Justin Comments: It's a 2002 Mercedes C320.
August 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, the steps in this article apply to your vehicle. Follow them all. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Justin Comments: Also with the lower control arm do I have to remove all steps or can I just go strait for the control arm?
August 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: For the procedure listed, you will have to follow all of the steps. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Justin Comments: Do you have to compress the spring before removing the strut from the steering knuckle?
August 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What type of vehicle are you working on? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bobby Comments: Thanks for replying. I checked my parts. They were measured perfectly fine. Yes they did removed both side springs. But I noticed they torgued it while car was hanging. I thought they suppose to torgued it while sitting the tires. My ride height is 2 inches then before.
July 20, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The control arm bushing should be tightened with the vehicle at ride height. However, that will not cause a 2" drop. SOunds like something was not installed correctly. I would have the work double checked. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bobby Comments: Sorry. My car rises 2 inches. Why??
July 19, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Got it, thanks. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bobby Comments: After changing my upper and lower both control arms my rises 2 inches from before. Why ???
July 19, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You could have something installed incorrectly, or the wrong parts. Did you remove the springs? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
DrShish Comments: hi, I am stuck at figure number 6 above. The nut would not turn at all is there a trick I can use? I tried PB blaster oil and a propane torch. That nut won't budge. Is it welded on and I need to turn the allen key side? Is it in reverse direction?

Please let me know if you can help.

Thanks
June 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: COunterhold the Allen bolt while loosening the nut with a breaker bar. It might be corroded and stuck. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Volvo Comments: If you shop around the continental mechanics you may find one with the small press-in tool, fits the bush without needing to remove the arm completely. Reduces the time and the bill considerably. The press consists of two end cups to fit the bush, a cylindrical centre a bit bigger than the bush diameter, and bolt down the middle to apply pressure. Two bushes and a tie rod cost me $340 Australian.
February 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Tim Comments: Great write-up; takes the guesswork out of it. Thanks!

I'm about to do this job on my 2002 C230 Coupe due to a loose ball joint at outboard end of the upper control arm.

Quick question:
The oem M-B suspension nuts have a thin wall at one end with sort of a 3-notched feature e.g. 000-000-00-32-81. In close-up photos I've found of this part online, there doesn't appear to be any pre-applied threadlocker in the threads. I also noticed that the bolt it goes onto 220-333-00-71 has a groove along most of its length.
Are you supposed to peen the edge of the nut into the groove after tightening, in order to "lock" it?
Thanks again!
February 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You have to replace the nut and bolt. The end of the nut locks onto the bolt, using friction on the threads. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
alice moore Comments: hello just had control arm/bjoint bushings replace and sway bar. prior to this done i had bushing done and my car was unable to drive because of the thunking noise they refuse to fix it. so this is my i took it to the above and they did work about charging me 1067.00 was this reasonable?

January 25, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I cannot comment on the price. I suggest calling a few local shops and asking for an estimate. That is the best way to figure out if the price was fair. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
tblake Comments: how much should a shop charge to do this job for you
January 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can't say for sure. I suggest calling a few local shops for estimates. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Justinselliott Comments: I am so impressed with this site! Very happy I found it. I am in South Africa and this is what I needed to replace my worn out control arms.. myself! Thanks!
September 30, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the kudos - Kerry at Pelican Parts  

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