Mercedes-Benz Parts Catalog Mercedes-Benz Accessories Catalog Mercedes-Benz Technical Articles Mercedes-Benz Tech Forums
 
Follow Pelican Parts on Facebook Follow Pelican Parts on Twitter Follow Pelican Parts on Instagram Follow Pelican Parts on YouTube Follow Pelican Parts on Pinterest Follow Pelican Parts on Tumblr
  Search our site:    
View Recent Cars  |   Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    
 >  >
Installing a New Water Pump on your Mercedes-Benz
 
Bookmark and Share

Pelican Technical Article:

Installing a New Water Pump on your Mercedes-Benz

Steve Vernon

Time:

6 hour6 hr

Tab:

$140

Talent:

***

Tools:

6mm, 8mm Allen, 13mm, 19mm wrench

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz W126 (1981-91)

Parts Required:

Water Pump

Hot Tip:

Be careful working around your radiator

Performance Gain:

Properly balanced engine

Complementary Modification:

Replace belts

When a water pump begins to fail, you'll notice that the car tends to overheat at low engine speed, such as sitting at a stoplight. When you accelerate, the engine temperature will drop. Now, this is not always indicative of a water pump, but a good starting point. You may also want to try squeezing the top radiator hose with the engine warmed up and running.

You should feel pressure build up on the back of the hose and surge once it is released. If you feel no pressure, it's a fair bet that the water pump is failing. Sometimes, you can also see a slight drip coming from the water pump housing itself. These weep holes are cast into the pump housing and allow excess coolant to drain out if it has leaked past the various seals in the pump.

In this article, I'll go over the steps involved with changing out the water pump on the Mercedes Benz W126. If this is your first time changing the coolant pump on a Mercedes-Benz and you are use to working on a Chevy or Ford, you are going to be a little shocked at the amount of things that need to be moved or removed to change out the water pump. The job is not difficult, just time consuming.

The Mercedes-Benz W126 has the proud distinction of having 5 different drive belts. To remove the vibration dampener you must remove all of them as well as the radiator, shroud and fan. If you have an impact gun removing the main blot that holds the dampener to the crank is easy, if you don't it can be quite difficult as it is held there with 300-400NM of force. I recommend you borrow or rent an impact gun as you run the risk of damaging the cast iron V-belt pulley without one. TIP: It may be possible to leave the main bolt in. After removing the water pump, remove the pulley from the main, then crack tap the harmonic weight with a non-metal hammer and it will come off with removing the main bolt. 

You are going to begin by removing the radiator. There are a few things that need to be loosened or removed from under the car, if you are comfortable and small enough to fit under the front of your car you do not need to lift it. If you like or need more you to work, safely lift and support the car.

Make sure the car is cool before you begin working on it. To drain the coolant, locate the plastic drain plug on the bottom of the lower front passenger side of the radiator. Place your drain bucket under the hole and turn the plug with a large screwdriver. Coolant will begin to come out but will not drain rapidly because of the vacuum caused by the sealed system. To get all the fluid out, go up to the coolant reservoir and undo the cap, this will break the vacuum and allow the coolant to flow freely.

Move to the radiator and undo and separate the overflow hose and upper hose from the radiator.

It can be a tight fit to remove the radiator and shroud so give yourself some more room by simply lifting the charcoal canister on the left side of the radiator mount up and out of the way.

Undo the clips holding the shroud to the radiator and radiator to the frame.

Move under the car and disconnect the transmission oil coolant lines from the lower part of the radiator. There will be some fluid that will spill so be prepared for it.

Lift the shroud from its locating taps on the bottom of the radiator and move the shroud back over the fan.

Undo and remove the two lower water hoses from the radiator. You will need to wiggle the shroud around so the outlet pipes clear the shroud when removing it.

The radiator is now free and can be lifted from the car. The radiator has two rubber mounts that sit on grommets in the lower cross frame. Sometimes you need to wiggle the radiator around to free it from the lower mounts, just take care that you do not damage it against the fan or condenser.

Next you need to remove the fan. There are four 10mm bolts holding the back of the Viscofan to the front of the cooling pump. You do not need to remove any of the drive belts to replace the fan. You need to hold the fan in place while unscrewing the four 10mm bolts, and while there are lots of different tools made to do this I just place a large screw driver between the fan center and one of the bolts. They are not held on under a lot of torque and should easily come off. Do NOT attempt to place anything between the fan blades to keep it from turning as you can easily damage the fan and yourself.

Moving on to the belts, begin by removing the air pump belt. The air pump is located on the lower passenger side of the engine.

To remove the belt you will need to loosen the pump itself. Use a 6mm Allen and loosen the Allen bolt at the top of the pump. The pump has a tensioner/locking bolt on its lower housing. There are two nuts on the same bolt. Loosen the outer 13mm nut and then turn the inner 19mm nut. The 19mm has a spiral toothed ring on it that is used to tension the belt. Turn it counter clock wise to loosen the belt and when reinstalling turn it clock wise to tension the belt and while holding the tension tighten down the 13mm bolt.

Don't forget to retighten the 6mm Allen when you are done.

Next remove your A/C belt. To remove the belt you will need to loosen the tensioner on the belt using an 8mm Allen. With the tension off you can now remove the belt.

After those belts are removed you need to loosen the power steering pump to loosen the belt. There are three 13mm nuts holding it on. Loosen the two 13mm nuts attaching the pump to the front plate. With these loosened but not removed, loosen the 13mm nut on the lower driver side of the pump and then use a 13mm wrench from the back of that bolt to turn the toothed bolt in its gear. It is the same system as the other pumps. Turn the rear bolt counter clockwise to loosen the pump, this will allow you to slip the belt off.

Remove the 27mm bolt holding the dampener to the crankshaft. It really is best to rent or borrow an impact gun to do this. With the bolt removed you will want to mark the pulley. The dampener sits on the crank shaft with the help of a Woodruff key and marking everything will help when putting it back together. Then remove the five 13mm bolts holding the pulley to the dampener.

Move to the thermostat located on the top of the cooling pump and remove the two electrical connectors.

Loosen the hose clamp on the large hose coming out of the back of the thermostat housing.

There are three 10mm bolts holding the top of the thermostat to the housing. These can stick a little as coolant can get in them and corrode them. Two of the bolts also hold a bracket with a ground wire on it. If you want to take the bracket to your bench to clean up you will need to remove this ground wire with an 8mm wrench. Remove the bolts and wiggle the top from the housing.

With the top removed you can pull the thermostat up and out of the housing, sliding it off of the hose at the rear.

Now you need to remove the distributor. If you are going to remove or even move the distributor from its place in its mount you must mark precisely where it is located before doing so. The distributor is used to set the timing of the spark to the engine, and while we are not going to cover how to set your timing in this article if your engine is running fine and you are just removing the distributor to service its accessories, the car will not run properly if you do not return the distributor to its original spot. Mark its spot and use a 6m Allen to remove the distributor locator and fastener.

With the Allen removed you can lift the distributor straight out of the engine. The distributor shaft has very tight tolerances on it so lift it straight out.

Congratulations you can now remove the cooling pump!

There are eight bolts holding the cooling pump to the engine and they are not all the same length, so make sure you take note of which bolt came from which hole. Remove the eight bolts and the cooling pump can be removed. Depending on the age and condition of the engine the pump will either fall off in your hands or you will have to encourage it to let go of the block. You can use a soft mallet and give it a few taps but never pry anything metal between the pump and block as you can mar the matting surface which will just lead to a leaking pump.

Carefully clean the mounting surface on the engine of any old gasket or sealant. When installing the new pump you should only use a new gasket, along with the two clean flat surfaces will be enough to give you the proper seal. People put lots of sealant around the pump and gasket and all it ends up doing is getting into the cooling system and fouling something up.

Installation is the reverse of removal

Locate the plastic drain plug on the bottom of the lower front passenger side of the radiator (yellow arrow).
Figure 1

Locate the plastic drain plug on the bottom of the lower front passenger side of the radiator (yellow arrow). Place your drain bucket under the hole and turn the knob.

Remove the cap on the coolant reservoir (red arrow), this will break the vacuum and allow the coolant to flow freely.
Figure 2

Remove the cap on the coolant reservoir (red arrow), this will break the vacuum and allow the coolant to flow freely.

The coolant should now flow freely (red arrow).
Figure 3

The coolant should now flow freely (red arrow).

Undo and separate the overflow hose (red arrow) and upper hose (green arrow) from the radiator.
Figure 4

Undo and separate the overflow hose (red arrow) and upper hose (green arrow) from the radiator.

Give yourself more room by simply lifting the charcoal canister on the left side of the radiator mount up and out of the way (red arrow).
Figure 5

Give yourself more room by simply lifting the charcoal canister on the left side of the radiator mount up and out of the way (red arrow).

Undo the clips holding the shroud to the radiator (green arrows) and radiator to the frame (red arrows).
Figure 6

Undo the clips holding the shroud to the radiator (green arrows) and radiator to the frame (red arrows).

Disconnect the transmission oil coolant lines (red arrows) from the lower part of the radiator.
Figure 7

Disconnect the transmission oil coolant lines (red arrows) from the lower part of the radiator. There will be some fluid that will spill so be prepared for it. Lift the shroud from its locating taps (green arrows) on the bottom of the radiator and move the shroud back over the fan.

Undo and remove the two lower hoses from the radiator (red arrows).
Figure 8

Undo and remove the two lower hoses from the radiator (red arrows). You will need to wiggle the shroud around so the outlet pipes clear the shroud when removing it.

The radiator is now free and can be lifted from the car.
Figure 9

The radiator is now free and can be lifted from the car. The radiator has two rubber mounts that sit on grommets in the lower cross frame. Sometimes you need to wiggle the radiator around to free it from the lower mounts, just take care that you do not damage it against the fan or condenser.

With the radiator gone the shroud can easily be removed from the engine bay.
Figure 10

With the radiator gone the shroud can easily be removed from the engine bay.

There are four 10mm bolts holding the back of the Viscofan to the front of the cooling pump (green arrow).
Figure 11

There are four 10mm bolts holding the back of the Viscofan to the front of the cooling pump (green arrow). You need to hold the fan in place while unscrewing the four 10mm bolts, and while there are lots of different tools made to do this I just place a large screw driver between the fan center shaft and one of the bolts. The bolts are not held on under a lot of torque and should easily come off. Do NOT attempt to place anything between the fan blades to keep it from turning as you can easily damage the fan and yourself.

This photo illustrates the five different belts on the W126 (there are two belts on the water pump, power steering pump, yellow arrow).
Figure 12

This photo illustrates the five different belts on the W126 (there are two belts on the water pump, power steering pump, yellow arrow). The green arrow shows the air pump belt, the red arrow shows the alternator belt and the blue arrow shows the A/C belt. Note: most of the front of the car has been removed for demonstration purposes.

Here you can see how the 19mm bolt has teeth in it (red arrow) and the toothed gate (green arrow) that the bolt turns in.
Figure 14

Here you can see how the 19mm bolt has teeth in it (red arrow) and the toothed gate (green arrow) that the bolt turns in.

With the air pump belt removed you can use an 8mm Allen to loosen the tensioner (yellow arrow) and then remove the A/C belt.
Figure 15

With the air pump belt removed you can use an 8mm Allen to loosen the tensioner (yellow arrow) and then remove the A/C belt.

Loosen the 17mm bolt (red arrow) attaching the alternator to the solid mount.
Figure 16

Loosen the 17mm bolt (red arrow) attaching the alternator to the solid mount. There is a nut and bolt that attaches the alternator to the arm bracket. This bolt has the tensioner teeth built into it like the other accessories (green arrow).

You need to use a 17mm socket and loosen the nut on the back of the alternator (red arrow).
Figure 17

You need to use a 17mm socket and loosen the nut on the back of the alternator (red arrow).

With this loose you can use your 17mm wrench on the front bolt to take the tension off the belt.
Figure 18

With this loose you can use your 17mm wrench on the front bolt to take the tension off the belt.

This photo shows the route of the two power steering pump and cooling pump belts (red arrows), the location of the power steering pump pulley (green arrow) and the three 13mm nuts and bolts connecting it to the car (yellow arrows, one is hidden).
Figure 19

This photo shows the route of the two power steering pump and cooling pump belts (red arrows), the location of the power steering pump pulley (green arrow) and the three 13mm nuts and bolts connecting it to the car (yellow arrows, one is hidden).

Loosen the two 13mm nuts (red arrows) attaching the pump to the front plate.
Figure 20

Loosen the two 13mm nuts (red arrows) attaching the pump to the front plate.

On the lower driver side of the pump use a 13mm wrench to loosen the front bolt (red arrow), and then working from the back turn the toothed bolt in its gear (yellow arrow).
Figure 21

On the lower driver side of the pump use a 13mm wrench to loosen the front bolt (red arrow), and then working from the back turn the toothed bolt in its gear (yellow arrow). It is the same system as the other pumps. Turn the rear bolt counter clockwise to loosen the pump.

Remove the 27mm bolt (green arrow) holding the dampener to the crankshaft.
Figure 22

Remove the 27mm bolt (green arrow) holding the dampener to the crankshaft. It really is best to rent or borrow an impact gun to do this. Then remove the five 13mm bolts (red arrow) holding the pulley to the dampener.

With the bolt removed you will want to mark the pulley.
Figure 23

With the bolt removed you will want to mark the pulley. The dampener sits on the crank shaft with the help of a Woodruff key and marking everything will help when putting it back together.

The red arrow show the groove on the dampener that the Woodruff key on the crankshaft sits in.
Figure 24

The red arrow show the groove on the dampener that the Woodruff key on the crankshaft sits in.

Next remove the two electrical connectors (green and red arrows).
Figure 25

Next remove the two electrical connectors (green and red arrows). The yellow arrow points to where the overflow hose attaches.

Remove the clamp from the large hose coming out of the thermostat housing (yellow arrow).
Figure 26

Remove the clamp from the large hose coming out of the thermostat housing (yellow arrow).

Two of the bolts also hold a bracket with a ground wire on it.
Figure 27

Two of the bolts also hold a bracket with a ground wire on it. If you want to take the bracket to your bench to clean up you will need to remove this ground wire with an 8mm wrench.

Remove the three 10mm bolts holding the top of the housing to the base.
Figure 28

Remove the three 10mm bolts holding the top of the housing to the base.

If you are going to remove or even move the distributor from its place in its mount you must mark precisely where it is located before doing so.
Figure 29

If you are going to remove or even move the distributor from its place in its mount you must mark precisely where it is located before doing so. The distributor is used to set the timing of the spark to the engine, and while we are not going to cover how to set your timing in this article if your engine is running fine and you are just removing the distributor to service its accessories, the car will not run fine if you do not return the distributor to its original spot. Mark its spot and use a 6mm (red arrow) Allen to remove the distributor locator and fastener.

Pull the distributor straight out of the engine (red arrow).
Figure 30

Pull the distributor straight out of the engine (red arrow).

There are eight bolts (red arrows, six shown) holding the cooling pump to the engine and they are not all the same length, so make sure you take note of which bolt came from which hole.
Figure 31

There are eight bolts (red arrows, six shown) holding the cooling pump to the engine and they are not all the same length, so make sure you take note of which bolt came from which hole. Remove the eight bolts and the cooling pump can be removed. Depending on the age and condition of the engine the pump will either fall off in your hands or you will have to encourage it to let go of the block. You can use a soft mallet and give it a few taps but never pry anything metal between the pump and block as you can mar the matting surface which will just lead to a leaking pump.

Carefully clean the mounting surface on the engine of any old gasket (red arrow) or sealant.
Figure 32

Carefully clean the mounting surface on the engine of any old gasket (red arrow) or sealant. When installing the new pump you should only use a new gasket, along with the two clean flat surfaces will be enough to give you the proper seal. People put lots of sealant around the pump and gasket and all it ends up doing is getting into the cooling system and fouling something up.

Here is an old pump removed from our project car engine.
Figure 33

Here is an old pump removed from our project car engine. It is in surprisingly good shape for a pump of its age. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Bookmark and Share
Comments and Suggestions:
TBKH Comments: Did not remove the 27mm bolt, now having problem lining up the 6 13 mm bolts on VD and crank pulley. Any suggestions on how to get things lined up?
December 8, 2016
Eriq Comments: Figured I'd add something. I have a 1983 300SD, I only had to: unclamp upper radiator hose and move it to the side, loosen belts you want some tension to hold the fan pulley, remove the fan and pulley. After those steps I was right at it grind down a cheap box-end wrench so you can break the fan bolts loose
September 20, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Bruce Comments: 1988 w126 is much easier. This post is not useful for a 1988.
April 17, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it. I will have the article updated.


- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Truth Comments: It just needed a burp basically & more coolant but I did use water cuz I ran outta coolant didn't think it took that much, but is water really ok???
January 29, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: use a 50 / 50 mix of coolant and water. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Truth Comments: Installed new water pump but gauge reads 120c in the red zone after 10mins of driving. No leaks & it cools down alil faster than the old water pump i took out but same situation it over heats.
January 28, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Your thermostat may be faulty. First be sure there i snot air trapped in the cooling system. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
DA.Truth Comments: How long you think this would honestly take?
January 1, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Article says Time: 6 hour - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ron Comments: 84 Benz 380SL just remove water pump WOW Here is what I did remove Follow above steps till the Main bolt does not need to come off Once you remove pulley from main Main crack
tap the harmonic weight with a non metal hammer it will come off no need to remove main bolt look in picture privided
December 6, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it. I will have the article updated.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Konrad Comments: Hi, my car won't start after water pump replacement. I was reading comments and came across somebody with the same issue. You guys advised to set cylinder 1 at TDC and then have the rotor point to the coil tower. What is the coil tower?
July 18, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What is being referred to as the coil tower, is cyl #1 on the distributor cap. The electrode cyl #1 wire points to. is the electrode - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Rick Comments: I am very impressed with your site and already have mention it to others.I've been wrenching for over 42years and always appreciate a helpful hand. Thank you and aloha
May 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Rick Comments: The lower bolt for the waterpump will not come out, it hits the dampener and the dampener will not come off because it hits the bracket for the AC compressor? It seems that someone put in to long a bolt. do you really have to remove the dampener and AC pump with brackets or4 did someone install to long a bolt????
May 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the bolt completely unscrewed? If so, remove it with the water pump by moving it to an angle as you remove the water pump. If it will not unscrew, you will have to remove whatever is in the way. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ali Comments: I installed a new water pump that I got from a guy on ebay
no part # on the pump 131-1983 was a # on the box. now the fan seems closer to the engine and I can't get the PS & Alt. belts on unless I loosen the fan bolts. This leads me to think that the water pump pulley is out of line a little bit from the PS and the crank shaft.Do I need to use a different pump?
May 6, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like you got the wrong part. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
oscarsaba Comments: Hi, Is it possible to remove the water pump only removing de fan , viscofan,fan shroud, water pulley and the distributor?. In the figure number 23 we can see two circular bite in the damper, are them to unscrew the two lower bolts of the water pump?
I´m sorry for my not perfet english friends.
April 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I believe you can only do it the way shown here. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
gmkjr Comments: Also replaced the thermostat!
February 25, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Ok, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
gmkjr Comments: Just finished installing new water pump and reassembling engine. Old pump was MB/ SKF mfrd 1985, so I assume it was original to car and lasted 29 years. I discovered oil leaks in the power steering pump and head covers, so the engine was filthy, and considerable time was dedicated to removing the heavy accumulation of oil and dirt from the engine, engine compartment, and all components, hoses and wires. Because it was necessary to remove the radiator, I decided to drain the transmission and change the transmission filter, too.
Also replaced: all v-belts, dist. rotor, dist. o-ring, head cover gaskets, rubber mounts for air cleaner, AT filter & pan seal, AT cooling hoses -from steel lines to radiator, & front seal on PS pump.
Torque values are:
Water pump to block 25 nm.
Thermostat cover to WP 25 nm.
Inlet to side of WP 10 nm
Harmonic damper to crankshaft hub - 6 bolts- 35 nm
Crankshaft hub to crankshaft -27mm bolt- 395 nm w/ 4 washers, 325 nm if 3 washers
PS pump mounting plate to head 25 nm
PS pump to mounting plate 25 nm
What a job! Took time to put rubber conditioner on all rubber & plastic parts, and everything looks great.
February 25, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
gmkjr Comments: I was able to remove the harmonic dampener and crankshaft pulley without removing the front hub on M117.963 '85 500 SEC. Because of limited clearance, you will need a 'slim' 13 mm socket to remove the six bolts that hold the pulley and dampener on the front hub of the crankshaft. This avoids the necessity of removing and replacing the front hub bolt and buying the tool 116 589 01 40 necessary to keep the engine from turning when you r/r the front hub bolt torque: 395 nm.

The procedure is as follows:
1. Set harmonic dampener to 0 degrees TDC;
2. Mark belt pulley at 0 degrees mark for realignment purposesNote that one of the bolt holes is slightly 2mm out of alignment, so the belt pulley, harmonic dampener and hub cannot be reassembled in an incorrect orientation.
3. Spray joint between hub and dampener with penetrating oil to facilitate disassembly after bolts are removed.
4. Using a slim socket, remove six bolts attaching pulley and dampener to hub assembly torque: 35 nm.
5. Remove pulley, being careful to avoid dislodging balancing weights.
6. Remove harmonic dampener, being careful when moving it past the A/C compressor bracket.
When cleaning the parts, be careful to avoid removing the index mark on the pulley. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.
February 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
chaslo Comments: would be nice if you gave bolt torque specs for all the bolts that have to be loosened our removed
July 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Let me see if I can get them added to the article. In the mean time, I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Dan Comments: CAN YOU DO ONE OF THESE GREAT INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPLACING TRANSMISSION FLUID FOR A 1991 560 SEL? I LOVE THESE!!
May 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If we get the chance to perform the repair we will be sure to document it. Check here for the latest tech articles: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MBZ_Tech_Index-W126.htm- Nick at Pelican Parts  
jose Comments: Followup from the Pelican Staff: Place cylinder 1 at TDC, then have the rotor point to the coil tower for cylinder one. - Nick at Pelican Parts
thanks everything is fine now.motor is running great
thank you for your help.I really appreciated
February 12, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No problem, glad I to help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jose Comments: Followup from the Pelican Staff: Set the engine to TDC, then resintall the distributor in the TDC position. That should get things timed up properly. - Nick at Pelican Parts
can you pleas tell me the procedures to set the engine to TDC.
February 8, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Place cylinder 1 at TDC, then have the rotor point to the coil tower for cylinder one. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jose Comments: well I put everything back. now having a problem ,car don't start. is probably because move the distributor.
February 5, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Set the engine to TDC, then resintall the distributor in the TDC position. That should get things timed up properly. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ahsan_khan Comments: Thanks Nick appreciate your help.
I checked bottom of the radiator and the shroud was all the way in. The fan is touch just a little bit at the bottom of the shroud. If I tighten up the belts, would it help in lifting the pulley to get more clearance?
Thanks
December 22, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, tightening the belts will not move the water pump pulley. i would be sure the parts are correct and everything is installed correctly. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ahsan_khan Comments: I have installed the water pump and put back everything. However, the fan touches the shroud. There is not much clearance at the bottom of the shroud and the fan. How can I adjust it so that fan does not touch the shroud.
Any help will be very much appreciated.
December 22, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The shroud likely did not drop into the mounts all the way. Remove it slightly up, and then slide it back down until it drops in. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
1980 450sl Comments: you can turn the center pully to the access hole with just the 27mm - pull a plug and it moves easier and you dont need an impact

I also did not take out the radiator, only the shroud
October 29, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you have he right tools you will probably not have to remove that much to get the jov done. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  

  Search our site:    

View Cart & CheckOut | Project List | Order Status |  Help    

 

[Home] [Customer Service] [Shopping Cart] [Project/Wish List]
  [Privacy Statement]  [Contact Us] [About Us] [Shipping] [Careers]

Copyright © Pelican Parts Inc. -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page

Page last updated: Fri 12/9/2016 02:27:26 AM