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How to Replace Your Rear Stabilizer Bar and Links
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

How to Replace Your Rear Stabilizer Bar and Links

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$15 to $400

Talent:

**

Tools:

19mm, 17mm, 13mm (2), 10mm wrenches

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz W124 (1986-95)

Parts Required:

Stabilizer bar, bushing and link

Hot Tip:

Inspect the links the next time you raise your car

Performance Gain:

Tighter handling

Complementary Modification:

Replace sway bar bushings

The rear stabilizer and sway bar links (sometimes referred to drop links) on the Mercedes-Benz W124 connect the vehicle stabilizer bar (or sway bar) to the control arms. Over time, the connecting link wears out and will get play in the ends. When they begin to fail, you may have a knocking noise when driving over bumps. If you suspect your stabilizer link is going bad, jack up the rear of the vehicle and wiggle the wheel back and forth, while wiggling the wheel, listen for a noise from the link. If no noise is heard, place your hand around the ends of the link and monitor for looseness as you wiggle the wheel.

If you have the self-leveling suspension the bracket for the leveling sensor control arm is mounted to the sway bar and will need to be removed before you remove the bar.

Begin by safely raising and supporting the vehicle. Please see our article on jacking up and supporting your W124. Remove the rear tires. The stabilizer bar is not under stress or pressure so you do not need to worry about things moving with the links off.

Remove the lower plastic shield on the control arm.
Figure 1

Remove the lower plastic shield on the control arm. It is held in place by two 10mm bolts (red arrows) and plastic clips along the sides (yellow arrows).

With the cover removed you can see where the drop link mounts to the lower control arm (yellow arrow) and the sway bar (red arrow).
Figure 2

With the cover removed you can see where the drop link mounts to the lower control arm (yellow arrow) and the sway bar (red arrow).

Use two 13mm wrenches and remove the nut and bolt connecting the drop link to the control arm (red arrows).
Figure 3

Use two 13mm wrenches and remove the nut and bolt connecting the drop link to the control arm (red arrows).

Brace the rear of the upper drop link with a 19mm wrench (red arrow) and use a 17mm wrench to remove the nut (yellow arrow).
Figure 4

Brace the rear of the upper drop link with a 19mm wrench (red arrow) and use a 17mm wrench to remove the nut (yellow arrow).

Check the condition of the rubber bushings on both ends of the links (red arrows).
Figure 5

Check the condition of the rubber bushings on both ends of the links (red arrows).

Remove the two 13mm bolts from the sway bar to body mount (red arrows).
Figure 6

Remove the two 13mm bolts from the sway bar to body mount (red arrows).

Mercedes-Benz micro encapsulates all of the suspension hardware and considers it to be single use only.
Figure 7

Mercedes-Benz micro encapsulates all of the suspension hardware and considers it to be single use only. It is not uncommon (if you are the second owner) to find hardware that has been cleaned with a wire brush and then Blue Loctite applied to the bolts.

Remove the mounting bracket (red arrow).
Figure 8

Remove the mounting bracket (red arrow). The rubber bushing (yellow arrow) has a split in it where you can remove it from the bar. If you are replacing the bushings do not use any Vaseline or petroleum based lubricates as they will cause the rubber to break down prematurely.

If you have a self-leveling rear suspension the leveling sensor attaches to the sway bar.
Figure 9

If you have a self-leveling rear suspension the leveling sensor attaches to the sway bar. There are two ends of the arm you can remove (red arrows) or simply unscrew the two 10mm nuts holding the bracket to the sway arm. Installation is the reverse of removal.



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Comments and Suggestions:
sageWexford Comments: When replacing the links from stabilizer bar to control arm, any tips on how much to tighten the nuts to the rubber bushings?? Whiteline says to just tighten to stop the washer from turning, then tighten another 2/3rd's turn. I guess with the MB links, the threaded sleeve in the rubber bushings provides a stop for the nuts so that you cannot overtighten and compress the rubber bushing too much?
March 3, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I checked Mercedes-Benz info, they do denote the times require torquing, however they do not list the torque in the information I have.

I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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