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Rear Multi-Link Suspension Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Rear Multi-Link Suspension Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

5 hours5 hrs

Tab:

$140

Talent:

***

Tools:

Torque wrench, 10, 15, 17, 19mm socket and wrenches, 12mm triple square

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz W124 (1986-95)

Parts Required:

Suspension control arm kit

Hot Tip:

Check the bushing on the control arm

Performance Gain:

Tighter suspension and longer life for your tires

Complementary Modification:

Replace lower control arm bushings

If your Mercedes-Benz W124 is starting to wander all over the road, or the suspension is beginning to feel sloppy, there is a good chance you have worn out suspension bushings. The W124 uses a 5 link suspension system. It includes a series of control arms and a tie rod to keep the tires in proper geometry to the road. It is very unusual for one of the arms or links in the suspension to actually wear out, but the bushings on the ends of the arms do, and need to be replaced. While you may be able to find separate bushings for the arms it is wiser, and in the long run, cheaper to replace the whole arm that includes new bushings, while performing this job. The arms are sold individually or in a kit. If you can afford it, I would recommend installing all new links from the kit, and then get a good alignment done on the car. 

Begin by safely raising and supporting your car off the ground. Please see our article on jacking up and supporting your Mercedes-Benz.

With the car safely supported remove the lower control arm cover by unscrewing the two 10mm screws on the cover (red arrows) and unclipping the cover from the arm (yellow arrows).
Figure 1

With the car safely supported remove the lower control arm cover by unscrewing the two 10mm screws on the cover (red arrows) and unclipping the cover from the arm (yellow arrows).

Here is the parts of the multi-link suspension you will be working on and where they attach to the frame: Camber link (blue arrow), Pull link (yellow arrow), Push link (green arrow) and Tie link or Tie Rod (red arrow).
Figure 2

Here is the parts of the multi-link suspension you will be working on and where they attach to the frame: Camber link (blue arrow), Pull link (yellow arrow), Push link (green arrow) and Tie link or Tie Rod (red arrow).

This illustrates where the multi links attach to the hub or carrier: Camber link (green arrow), Pull link (red arrow), Tie link (blue arrow) and the Push link (yellow arrow).
Figure 3

This illustrates where the multi links attach to the hub or carrier: Camber link (green arrow), Pull link (red arrow), Tie link (blue arrow) and the Push link (yellow arrow).

Remove the old hardware from where the Camber link joins the frame.
Figure 4

Remove the old hardware from where the Camber link joins the frame. The original hardware will be'mm but it may be a 12mm triple square with an'mm nut. Make sure you use the right tool, because if you round this head off you will almost certainly need to drop the entire assembly to cut the old bolt off.

Remove the old nut, bolt, washers and compression sleeve from the hub.
Figure 5

Remove the old nut, bolt, washers and compression sleeve from the hub.

Remove the old hardware from where the Pull link joins the chassis (red arrow) and then from where it joins the hub.
Figure 6

Remove the old hardware from where the Pull link joins the chassis (red arrow) and then from where it joins the hub.

Don't forget to remove the old compression sleeves and install new ones (red arrow).
Figure 7

Don't forget to remove the old compression sleeves and install new ones (red arrow).

When installing the new hardware you will need to remove the dust shield to get access.
Figure 8

When installing the new hardware you will need to remove the dust shield to get access.

Remove the caliper, rotor and parking brake.
Figure 9

Remove the caliper, rotor and parking brake. Please see our articles on these projects for further assistance. With everything removed spin the wheel hub until you can access the three 5mm Allen bolts holding the dust shield in place (red arrow). Note: if you are having difficulty removing the old hardware you can perform this step earlier.

Once you have removed the bolts you can rotate the shield so you can easily get to the links.
Figure 10

Once you have removed the bolts you can rotate the shield so you can easily get to the links.

Remove the Push link from the frame.
Figure 11

Remove the Push link from the frame.

Remove the Push link from the hub.
Figure 12

Remove the Push link from the hub.

Before you loosen the tie link or rod, make sure you mark the eccentric nut and washer.
Figure 13

Before you loosen the tie link or rod, make sure you mark the eccentric nut and washer. After you have scribed these you can loosen and remove the tie link from the chassis (red arrow), and then the hub (green arrow). You may need a tie rod separator to remove the end from the hub. When installing the new Tie link or rod make sure you line up the marks as well as you can. If you are taking the car for an alignment immediately after the job and it is only a few miles away you do not have to worry as much about getting the tie rod exact. Once all the new links are installed, raise the wheel hub up so that the axle is level (taking care not to lift the car off its supports) and torque everything down to spec. If you have gone to all this trouble and now have a new suspension, I highly recommend getting the car properly aligned.



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