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Pelican Technical Article:

Brake Booster Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

6 hours6 hrs

Tab:

$260

Talent:

***

Tools:

19mm, 13mm wrench, flat head screwdriver

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz W124 (1986-95)

Parts Required:

Brake booster

Hot Tip:

Use paper towels and plastic bags to contain any fluid leaks

Performance Gain:

Better braking

Complementary Modification:

Replace master cylinder

Without a doubt, your brakes are the most important systems on the car. While brake boosters do not often fail when they do you must replace them as there is no way to repair it. People often also upgrade to a larger booster to change the brake feel.

Replacing the brake booster on the Mercedes W124 is not difficult. It is just a tight fit, but it should take no more than six hours including bleeding the brakes. Begin by removing the master cylinder and reservoir. Please see our article on master cylinder and reservoir removal for further assistance. You will also need to remove the kick panels to get access to the pedal box. It is possible to remove the brake booster with the master cylinder attached but you will need to separate them to replace the booster so you might as well separate them in the car and give yourself more room to work.

When you are finished you will need to completely bleed the brakes. DO NOT drive the car without completely bleeding the brakes.

With all of the previous steps complete from removing the master cylinder and reservoir you will be left with the brake booster (red arrow) attached to the firewall.
Figure 1

With all of the previous steps complete from removing the master cylinder and reservoir you will be left with the brake booster (red arrow) attached to the firewall. Use a'mm wrench and remove the vacuum line (yellow arrow).

With the kick panel removed you have access to the pedals.
Figure 2

With the kick panel removed you have access to the pedals. There is a large pin that goes through the brake pedal and attaches the brake booster to the pedal (red arrow).

Use a screwdriver and remove the pin clip from the pin and slip the pin out from the brake pedal (red arrow).
Figure 3

Use a screwdriver and remove the pin clip from the pin and slip the pin out from the brake pedal (red arrow).

There are four nuts that appear to hold the brake booster to the pedal box.
Figure 4

There are four nuts that appear to hold the brake booster to the pedal box. Only two of the nuts hold the brake booster the other two are for the pedal box. Remove the two nuts without the paint on them (red arrows, one not shown).

With the nuts removed push or pull the booster away from the firewall (red arrow).
Figure 5

With the nuts removed push or pull the booster away from the firewall (red arrow). You will need to tilt it back and move the lines around to get the booster out of the engine compartment.

The area under the booster is known to collect dirt, debris and sometimes spilt brake fluid; make sure to give this a good cleaning while the booster is out (red arrow).
Figure 6

The area under the booster is known to collect dirt, debris and sometimes spilt brake fluid; make sure to give this a good cleaning while the booster is out (red arrow).

If you are reinstalling the booster make sure to replace the gasket between the booster and firewall (red arrow).
Figure 7

If you are reinstalling the booster make sure to replace the gasket between the booster and firewall (red arrow). In this photo you can see the bracket that the pin goes through to attach it to the brake pedal.

When reinstalling the master cylinder it must sit over the rod inside the booster (red arrow).
Figure 8

When reinstalling the master cylinder it must sit over the rod inside the booster (red arrow). Installation is the reverse of removal. When you are finished you will need to completely bleed the brakes. DO NOT drive the car without completely bleeding the brakes.



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Page last updated: Fri 12/9/2016 02:39:25 AM