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Pelican Technical Article:

Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

5hours

Tab:

$12 to $300

Talent:

****

Tools:

Engine hoist, 17mm, 13mm, 10mm socket, 5mm Allen

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz W124 (1986-95)

Parts Required:

Oil, oil pan gasket

Hot Tip:

Cover your floor with cardboard

Performance Gain:

Longer engine life

Complementary Modification:

Flush your cooling system and replace your radiator hoses

Oil leaks from the oil pan gasket can become a common problem on older Mercedes-Benz's, and the pan will need to be removed to replace the gasket. The first problem with this is that you will need to slightly lift the engine to get the oil pan to clear the cross member and be removed from the car. The second problem is that you cannot lift the engine from the oil pan as you will be removing the pan. The solution is to rent or borrow an engine hoist. You will need to drain the oil from the pan before removing it and even after a full drain there will still be some oil left in the bottom of the pan so use caution. It is also a good idea to cover the floor area you are going to be working in cardboard, that way you can have a quick clean up and a clean surface to lie on when reinstalling the pan.

This oil pan has been referred to as "the singularly most secured oil pan in automotive history". While this might be a little hyperbole there are a ridiculous amount of fasteners on the pan. Take an old cardboard box and draw a rough outline of the pan and cut small holes where the fasteners go; once you remove a fastener from the pan stick it in the box in the appropriate place on the drawing. There are several different sizes and lengths of fasteners and this will help keep them in the right order for reinstallation.

You will need to safely raise and support the vehicle. Please see our article on safely jacking up and supporting your W124.

You will need to drain all of the oil from the pan (red arrow).
Figure 1

You will need to drain all of the oil from the pan (red arrow). This is also a good time to replace your oil filter. Please see our article on oil and filter replacement for additional assistance.

You should remove the fan shroud (red arrow) from the engine before you attempt to lift it.
Figure 2

You should remove the fan shroud (red arrow) from the engine before you attempt to lift it. This will give you more clearance at the front of the motor once you start lifting. Please see our article on shroud removal for additional assistance.

Due to the design of the pan you will need to remove the front sway bar (red arrow) to be able to get the pan out.
Figure 3

Due to the design of the pan you will need to remove the front sway bar (red arrow) to be able to get the pan out. Please see our article on front sway bar removal for further assistance. You will also need to lift the engine a few inches to get the pan to clear the cross member (yellow arrow).

Begin by removing the accessories attached to the pan.
Figure 4

Begin by removing the accessories attached to the pan. On the left side of the pan there is a transmission coolant line that mounts in two places. Use a 10mm socket and remove the mounting nuts and bolts (red arrows).

Remove the 5mm Allen bolt holding the transmission line on the right side of the pan (red arrow).
Figure 5

Remove the 5mm Allen bolt holding the transmission line on the right side of the pan (red arrow).

There are two 10mm bolts behind the harmonic balancer.
Figure 6

There are two 10mm bolts behind the harmonic balancer. One can be reached with a small 10mm socket and extension (red arrow) and the other is an approximately three-inch bolt coming out down below the harmonizer that holds the transmission line to the front (yellow arrow). Use a 10mm socket and remove both.

Use a 10 mm socket and remove all of the bolts on the pan placing them in the holes in your cardboard box to keep track of them (red arrows, only a few shown).
Figure 7

Use a 10 mm socket and remove all of the bolts on the pan placing them in the holes in your cardboard box to keep track of them (red arrows, only a few shown).

Use a 13mm socket and remove the four bolts from the bottom rear of the pan (red arrows).
Figure 8

Use a 13mm socket and remove the four bolts from the bottom rear of the pan (red arrows).

Next remove the two17mm bolts from the rear of the pan (red arrows).
Figure 9

Next remove the two17mm bolts from the rear of the pan (red arrows). These bolts hold the pan to the bell housing.

Attach a chain to your hoist from the front mounting bracket on the head (red arrow).
Figure 10

Attach a chain to your hoist from the front mounting bracket on the head (red arrow). Some people have claimed to lift the engine by the bell housing with a floor jack but we do not recommend it as you could do damage to yourself or the car. Borrow or rent a hoist and do the job properly. Take the weight of the motor but do not lift it yet.

Looking underneath you can see the two engine mounts (red arrows) that you will need to disconnect to raise the engine enough to have the rear of the pan clear the cross member.
Figure 11

Looking underneath you can see the two engine mounts (red arrows) that you will need to disconnect to raise the engine enough to have the rear of the pan clear the cross member. While the right side mount can easily be loosened from the top (green arrow) the left is almost impossible. I recommend removing the lower mounting bolts through the access holes in the cross member (yellow arrows).

Use a 17mm socket and extension and remove the lower left mounting bolt (red arrow).
Figure 12

Use a 17mm socket and extension and remove the lower left mounting bolt (red arrow).

Use a 17mm socket and extension and remove the lower right mounting bolt (red arrow).
Figure 13

Use a 17mm socket and extension and remove the lower right mounting bolt (red arrow).

You can now lift the engine enough (red arrow) to have the pan clear the cross member and remove it from the vehicle.
Figure 14

You can now lift the engine enough (red arrow) to have the pan clear the cross member and remove it from the vehicle. You do not need to lift the engine more than a few inches, so all the wiring and connections will be safe.

Thoroughly clean the mounting surfaces of both the engine block and the pan (yellow arrow).
Figure 15

Thoroughly clean the mounting surfaces of both the engine block and the pan (yellow arrow). Don't forget to get a new crush washer for the drain bolt (green arrow). Now is also a good time to inspect the oil level sender (red arrow). Use caution and do not use anything sharp that could cause a gouge in the pan or block that will cause a leak. Install the new gasket and the bolts and hand tighten in a criss-cross pattern until all are hand tight and then torque to specs in a criss-cross pattern. Do not forget to install the new oil. Installation of the rest of the components is the reverse of removal.



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Comments and Suggestions:
Davidcoleman1988 Comments: You guys say nothing about the rear gasket the black rubber one... is not needed? Fig 8 oil pan gasket. I ordered one. But nothing is said about it.
December 3, 2016
atte Comments: Going to follow this guide on my 190e w201, I think they have almost identical engine design as w124 so I should be fine?
November 22, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If engine is similar, yes. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
cima Comments: I have a vehicle of S124 300TE 4MATIC.
Is it possible desorption in this way?
Space is quite narrow.
I want to repair the oil leak.
October 4, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The lower oil pans should come out, if that is what you want to replace. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ivo Comments: This is perfect for SL 320. Identical steps. Thank you for the play by play.
August 13, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
190e 2.6 Comments: Will this work for the 190e? 2.6 variant?
June 3, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Applicable Models:


Mercedes-Benz W124 (1986-95) - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
zlloyd1 Comments: I have a 1993 Mercedes 300TE Wagon with 3.2L V6 engine, and I have been told that lifting the engine is not necessary to change out the oil pan. So, would I need the Engine Hoist??
February 25, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I think it has to be lifted, or it won't clear the front crossmember. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Studebaker Comments: How many inch pounds or foot pounds should the pan bolts be torqued?
February 22, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don’t have that info.

I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
stuck! Comments: headache help.. .!
hi, dont know if anyone can help. trying to remove the oil pan from my E280. I have followed step by step but seem not to have enough space for the pan to clear the crossmember and the engine is touching fire wall, wont go any higher?
December 15, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Use an engine hoist to life the engine off the engine mounts. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
junior Comments: thank you very much! im doing the job myself following your instructions.
Gerson from brazil
September 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mcguyver Comments: Thanks alot for the tips on removing the oil pan could've done it without us
April 11, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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Page last updated: Fri 12/9/2016 02:39:04 AM