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Cruise Control Actuator Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Cruise Control Actuator Replacement

Steve Vernon

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$200 to $875

Talent:

*

Tools:

10mm wrench, flathead screwdriver

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz W123 (1977-85)

Parts Required:

Cruise Control Actuator

Hot Tip:

Pay attention to the washers

Performance Gain:

Functioning cruise control

Complementary Modification:

Change the cabin air filter

If your cruise control actuator failed in your W123 in the past you were looking at a lot of money to purchase a new one, but today you can buy a remanufactured unit from Pelican Parts that comes with a three year warranty. The remanufactured units include a core charge which involves you sending in your old unit or being charged an extra fee as they take the old units as a core and replace all of the worn and broken parts as needed; so do not throw out the old unit if you are buying a remanufactured one.

Over the years your car may have been serviced by multiple people including previous owners and this can lead to parts replaced with different size fasteners and hardware. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches. If something is different on your vehicle please let us know and share your info to help other users. If you have any questions or comments or even a different procedure you would like to share please leave it below and please leave your vehicle information.

The cruise control actuator is located on the left side of the engine just behind the power steering pump (red arrow).
Figure 1

The cruise control actuator is located on the left side of the engine just behind the power steering pump (red arrow).

Begin by removing the 10mm nut and taking the arm off the unit (red arrow).
Figure 2

Begin by removing the 10mm nut and taking the arm off the unit (red arrow). If you want to do this once the unit is out of the engine bay, disconnect one of the ball joints by first lubricating it then slip a flathead screwdriver between the ball and socket and gently pry up (yellow arrow).

With the linkage disconnected use a 10mm wrench and remove the three 10mm bolts (red arrows).
Figure 3

With the linkage disconnected use a 10mm wrench and remove the three 10mm bolts (red arrows).

Make sure to keep track of the placement of the washers and spacers for reinstalling.
Figure 4

Make sure to keep track of the placement of the washers and spacers for reinstalling.

Follow the wiring to the left fender and disconnect the electrical connection.
Figure 5

Follow the wiring to the left fender and disconnect the electrical connection.

With the three bolts, washers and spacers removed you can lift the unit up and out from the engine bay.
Figure 6

With the three bolts, washers and spacers removed you can lift the unit up and out from the engine bay.

If you are purchasing the remanufactured unit make sure to keep your old unit as you will need to send it in as a core.
Figure 7

If you are purchasing the remanufactured unit make sure to keep your old unit as you will need to send it in as a core. Installation is the reverse of removal.

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Page last updated: Sat 12/3/2016 03:04:41 AM