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Pelican Technical Article:

Turbo Removal

Steve Vernon

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$45 to $140

Talent:

**

Tools:

13mm, 8mm socket, 17mm wrench, 5mm Allen, flathead screwdriver

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz 300TD (1979-85)

Parts Required:

Gaskets

Hot Tip:

Soak the hardware with penetrating oil before beginning

Performance Gain:

Working turbo

Complementary Modification:

Change oil and filter

The turbo on the W123's may need to come off for many reasons including cleaning out the trap oxidizer installed on the later models. Removal of the turbo is simple and can be done under an hour or so as long as you do not encounter any really stuck hardware. One of the tricks is to hit all of the hardware with a good penetrating oil a week before you plan on removing everything and repeating this a few times so the hardware can go through several heat cycles.

Obviously the turbo gets extremely hot so make sure that you are working on a cold engine before you begin to work on the turbo.

Over the years your car may have been serviced by multiple people including previous owners and this can lead to parts replaced with different size fasteners and hardware. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches. If something is different on your vehicle please let us know and share your info to help other users. If you have any questions or comments or even a different procedure you would like to share please leave it below and please leave your vehicle information.

On some early California models and all later 1985 models and on the later model turbo diesels Mercedes moved the air filter housing to make room for the trap oxidizer that sits below the turbo (red arrow).
Figure 1

On some early California models and all later 1985 models and on the later model turbo diesels Mercedes moved the air filter housing to make room for the trap oxidizer that sits below the turbo (red arrow). You do not need to remove the air filter housing on the later models but you will need to on the early ones.

Remove the air intake (yellow arrow) from the turbo inlet (red arrow) by loosening the clamp and slipping it off.
Figure 2

Remove the air intake (yellow arrow) from the turbo inlet (red arrow) by loosening the clamp and slipping it off.

While you do not have to remove the heat shield to remove the turbo it will give you more room to get at the exhaust hardware if it gives you trouble.
Figure 3

While you do not have to remove the heat shield to remove the turbo it will give you more room to get at the exhaust hardware if it gives you trouble. There are four 8mm screws (red arrows) that you simply unscrew and lift the shield from the engine bay.

You are going to be working on the three main areas of the turbo; the exhaust inlet (red arrow), the turbine (yellow arrow) and the compressor (blue arrow).
Figure 4

You are going to be working on the three main areas of the turbo; the exhaust inlet (red arrow), the turbine (yellow arrow) and the compressor (blue arrow).

If you have not heat cycled the hardware for a few days before you start, at least try and give it a few hours to work before beginning; you do not want to snap any studs while removing things.
Figure 5

If you have not heat cycled the hardware for a few days before you start, at least try and give it a few hours to work before beginning; you do not want to snap any studs while removing things.

Begin by removing the two 13mm bolts holding the upper oil line to turbo (red arrows).
Figure 6

Begin by removing the two 13mm bolts holding the upper oil line to turbo (red arrows).

Use a 5mm Allen and remove the bracket holding the oil supply line to the intake manifold (reed arrow), this will give you more clearance when removing the turbo.
Figure 7

Use a 5mm Allen and remove the bracket holding the oil supply line to the intake manifold (reed arrow), this will give you more clearance when removing the turbo.

Next loosen the two 13mm bolts on the flex coupler (red arrows), you do not need to remove these all the way just loosen them up.
Figure 8

Next loosen the two 13mm bolts on the flex coupler (red arrows), you do not need to remove these all the way just loosen them up.

Remove the three 13mm nuts on the exhaust to turbine side and slip the coupler ring down the pipe and separate the pipe form the turbo.
Figure 9

Remove the three 13mm nuts on the exhaust to turbine side and slip the coupler ring down the pipe and separate the pipe form the turbo.

There are four 17mm nuts and washers holding the turbo to the trap oxidizer or in earlier cars exhaust manifold (red arrows, two shown).
Figure 10

There are four 17mm nuts and washers holding the turbo to the trap oxidizer or in earlier cars exhaust manifold (red arrows, two shown). Access to these is tight but you can remove them with a 17mm wrench.

Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the oil return or down tube to the compressor (red arrows).
Figure 11

Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the oil return or down tube to the compressor (red arrows).

Everything is now free and you can lift the turbo system out from the engine.
Figure 12

Everything is now free and you can lift the turbo system out from the engine.

There is a pipe that connects the turbo to the intake manifold; this will probably fall out when you remove the turbo, do not lose it.
Figure 13

There is a pipe that connects the turbo to the intake manifold; this will probably fall out when you remove the turbo, do not lose it. There are two O-rings on the connector that must be replaced (red arrow).

On the later cars you can now access the trap oxidizer.
Figure 14

On the later cars you can now access the trap oxidizer. Installation is the reverse of removal and do not forget to replace all the gaskets and O-rings.

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