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Pelican Technical Article:

Oil and Filter Change

Steve Vernon

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$80 to $140

Talent:

**

Tools:

13mm wrench or socket, bucket, paper towels

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz W123 (1977-85)

Parts Required:

Filter, gasket, crush washer, 6-8 liters of oil

Hot Tip:

Get the engine warm before you drain the oil

Performance Gain:

Longer engine life

Complementary Modification:

Flush your cooling system and replace your radiator hoses

One of the most common tasks to perform is replacing your engine oil. Frequent oil changes are perhaps the most important procedure you can do to maintain and prolong the life of your engine. With the better oils that are available today, the requirement for frequent changes is diminishing. Even though Mercedes Benz recommends oil change intervals that are much further apart than in the past, I usually recommend that you keep the changes under the 5,000-mile limit. If you don't drive your car too often, you should change the oil at least once a year to keep things fresh.

The first thing you need to do is to make sure that you have everything that is required for the job. Nothing is more frustrating than emptying your oil, only to find out that you don't have a replacement filter or enough oil. You will need an oil filter kit, a 13mm socket, a roll of paper towels, a very large oil pan or bucket, and 8 liters of oil. Start by driving the car around, and let it heat up to operating temperature. You'll want to empty your oil when it's hot, because the heat makes the oil flow a lot easier, and more particles of metal and dirt will come out when the oil is emptied.

When changing your oil always catch and dispose of the used motor oil; NEVER pour it in the ground, the street or open sewers, not only is that bad for the planet it is illegal. Most local oil change places will take your old oil and filter for no charge.

You will need to safely jack the car up and place it on jack stands, please see our article on safely jacking up and supporting your car.

Over the years your car may have been serviced by multiple people including previous owners and this can lead to parts replaced with different size fasteners and hardware. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as Mercedes redesigned systems and sub-system as the models developed over the years. If something is different on your vehicle please let us know and share your info to help other users. If you have any questions or comments or even a different procedure you would like to share please leave it below and please include your vehicle information.

You will begin and finish working on the top of the motor.
Figure 1

You will begin and finish working on the top of the motor. The oil filter housing is located on the left side of the engine towards the year (red arrow) and the oil filter cap is located on the front top of the valve cover (yellow arrow).

The filter is a cartridge type and can be messy to get out; if you use care you can separate and move any vacuum lines that are in the way.
Figure 2

The filter is a cartridge type and can be messy to get out; if you use care you can separate and move any vacuum lines that are in the way.

The oil filter housing cap has been redesigned over the years so yours may vary from our project 1984 300 TD.
Figure 3

The oil filter housing cap has been redesigned over the years so yours may vary from our project 1984 300 TD. The lid on our housing has two 13mm bolts holding it in place (red arrows) while some also include a center post bolt.

Remove the lid and the center post from the housing.
Figure 4

Remove the lid and the center post from the housing.

Replace the rubber gasket (red arrow) in the lid of the housing.
Figure 5

Replace the rubber gasket (red arrow) in the lid of the housing. If yours is missing make sure to check the housing itself as sometimes they stick there.

The oil filter cartridge has a handle on the top, grasp the handle and remove the cartridge using care not to spill the oil in it.
Figure 6

The oil filter cartridge has a handle on the top, grasp the handle and remove the cartridge using care not to spill the oil in it.

Working under the vehicle use a 13mm wrench and remove the drain plug (red arrow).
Figure 7

Working under the vehicle use a 13mm wrench and remove the drain plug (red arrow). The oil coming out will be hot so use care and try not to drop the drain plug into the bucket.

Always install a new crush washer in the drain plug.
Figure 8

Always install a new crush washer in the drain plug. After the oil has drained install the new washer and drain plug and torque to spec.

Move to the top of the motor and remove the oil filler cap from the valve cover (red arrow).
Figure 9

Move to the top of the motor and remove the oil filler cap from the valve cover (red arrow). Begin by installing 7 liters of your oil for the turbo diesel and 6 for the non turbo, then start the motor and let it run for a few minutes. Stop the motor and give it a few minutes for the oil to works its way down into the pan. Check the level and add as needed until you reach the appropriate level on the dip stick.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Bill Comments: This is a very helpful tech publication as I am a newbie to the diesel CDT. My dilemma is that after I drain the oil from the pan waiting until all the drips stop and refilling with new filter, I crank the engine as normal and then check the level and the oil is still black...still looks filthy. What else can I drain to get all the oil out of the system? Perhaps disconnect the bottom hose from the oil cooler?
June 3, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Did you drain and replace filter as well? - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Thu 11/23/2017 03:02:06 AM