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Pelican Technical Article:

Air Intake Duct Removal

Tom Morr

Time:

30 minutes30 mins

Tab:

$0

Talent:

*

Tools:

Sockets, ratchet or nut driver, small flathead screwdriver

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz R170 (1998-04)

Hot Tip:

The electrical plug is likely brittle; disconnect it carefully

Performance Gain:

Access to other engine components

Complementary Modification:

Replace supercharger or exhaust manifold gaskets

The air cleaner housing and intake duct normally don't go bad unless the car is in an accident and these parts are damaged. However, removing the air cleaner housing improves access to the supercharger and exhaust manifold, should those components need to be serviced.

Some Mercedes-Benz owners like to remove the factory intake and replace it with a higher-performance aftermarket cold-air intake (CAI) system. These kits typically flow more air than the OE system, the trade-off being louder engine whine.

The scoop and intake duct can remain in replace if the goal is getting to the supercharger or other right-side engine components. If the scoop and duct need to be removed to replace the intake system, the grille must come out first. Please see our article on grille removal for details.

Two hose clamps (red arrows) connect the air cleaner housing to flexible ducts.
Figure 1

Two hose clamps (red arrows) connect the air cleaner housing to flexible ducts. Loosen these, and then slide the ducts off the housing. Next, undo the lid's clips (yellow arrows).

Lifting the lid makes the hose (in hand) under the rearward duct easier to pull off the nipple off the lid.
Figure 2

Lifting the lid makes the hose (in hand) under the rearward duct easier to pull off the nipple off the lid.

An electrical connection (arrow) is on the engine side of the air cleaner housing.
Figure 3

An electrical connection (arrow) is on the engine side of the air cleaner housing. Its locking tab is on the plug's bottom side. The plastic can be brittle from engine heat, so remove the plug with care.

The air cleaner housing's lid can be removed once the ducts, hose, and plug are disconnected.
Figure 4

The air cleaner housing's lid can be removed once the ducts, hose, and plug are disconnected. The air filter element doesn't have to be removed, but doing so reveals the mounting points for the housing's bottom piece.

The lower half of the air cleaner housing can now be wiggled/lifted to free its legs (not visible) from the rubber grommets on the wheel well.
Figure 5

The lower half of the air cleaner housing can now be wiggled/lifted to free its legs (not visible) from the rubber grommets on the wheel well.

Pulling toward the firewall frees the intake duct from the scoop (not visible).
Figure 6

Pulling toward the firewall frees the intake duct from the scoop (not visible).

The grille must be removed (please see that article) to access the scoop.
Figure 7

The grille must be removed (please see that article) to access the scoop. Our project car is an accident survivor, and the OE two-piece plastic rivet was replaced by a panel clip (arrow) to hold the scoop to the body. We used a trim panel tool to remove it.

The scoop fits snugly.
Figure 8

The scoop fits snugly. Be conscientious of the plastic tabs on its top when angling it out from the body.

The intake system consists of the scoop, intake duct, two-piece air cleaner housing, and the air filter element.
Figure 9

The intake system consists of the scoop, intake duct, two-piece air cleaner housing, and the air filter element.

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