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Front Side Window Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Front Side Window Replacement

Tom Morr

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$0

Talent:

**

Tools:

Phillips screwdrivers, Torx bits (T9, T27, T30), 10mm socket, wrench, trim removal wedges

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz R170 (1998-04)

Parts Required:

Used replacement glass, if necessary

Hot Tip:

Get spare door-panel clips

Performance Gain:

Interior security, seals out elements

Complementary Modification:

Replace torn weather shields, grease and or replace the regulator

Electrical work and windows are two areas that scare most car enthusiasts; both can inflict pain when things go wrong.

Glass isn't as mysterious as electricity, and some auto glass can often be replaced at home. Windshields require some sealing skill, but side windows can often be removed and replaced if care and patience are exercised. Front side windows on R170 SLKs are fairly easy to remove once the door panel is off. Pre-facelift cars (built before February 2000) have a couple fewer steps, as seen below in our project car. The later cars' speakers must be removed for window fastener access.

If the existing window is being retained, the main removal challenge is avoiding scratches or breakage while lifting it out of the door panel. (Window tinting is possibly easier with the glass out of the car -- although even greater care should be exercised when installing the glass to avoid scratching the tint.)

Depending on insurance deductible, replacing a broken window at home might be more cost-effective than filing a claim. Installation reverses the removal process. See the article on window adjustment for tips on fine-tuning the glass for the best seal on the weather stripping.

Begin by removing the door panel (please see our article on door panel removal).
Figure 1

Begin by removing the door panel (please see our article on door panel removal).

Peel the plastic weather shield liner toward the front of the car to uncover the access hole at the bottom of the door.
Figure 2

Peel the plastic weather shield liner toward the front of the car to uncover the access hole at the bottom of the door.

If the inner sealing rail/weather stripping (blue arrow) doesn't come off with the door panel, remove it by lifting upward.
Figure 3

If the inner sealing rail/weather stripping (blue arrow) doesn't come off with the door panel, remove it by lifting upward.

You may want to remove the rear slider stop/adjuster bracket to increase space inside the door.
Figure 4

You may want to remove the rear slider stop/adjuster bracket to increase space inside the door. It's mounted by a single nut that takes a 10mm wrench.

The rear stop bracket is easily removed by reaching up into the door through the access hole.
Figure 5

The rear stop bracket is easily removed by reaching up into the door through the access hole. (It is shown upside down here -- the rubber-coated edge mounts at the top.)

The guide rail has to be removed.
Figure 6

The guide rail has to be removed. To access its bottom bolt, remove the drain plug from the door's lower rear corner.

From inside the access window, mark the position of the guide rail's lower foot on the door panel's slotted hole.
Figure 7

From inside the access window, mark the position of the guide rail's lower foot on the door panel's slotted hole. Then remove the lower bolt with a T27 Torx bit.

The guide rail's top bolt, which also takes a T27 bit, was marked with red ink by a previous technician for proper reinstallation.
Figure 8

The guide rail's top bolt, which also takes a T27 bit, was marked with red ink by a previous technician for proper reinstallation.

Once unbolted, the guide rail slides out through the access hole.
Figure 9

Once unbolted, the guide rail slides out through the access hole.

Lower the window until the three bolts that secure the glass to the regulator (blue arrows) are accessible.
Figure 10

Lower the window until the three bolts that secure the glass to the regulator (blue arrows) are accessible. They use a T30 Torx bit. Consider marking the bolts' positions in the slots if wear marks aren't apparent.

Peel back the beginning of the sealing rail, leaving most of the seal installed to minimize potential glass-to-metal contact.
Figure 11

Peel back the beginning of the sealing rail, leaving most of the seal installed to minimize potential glass-to-metal contact. The glass passes out through the upper rear gap.

Carefully lift the glass off the regulator and angle the slider (blue arrow) out through the gap in the upper rear corner.
Figure 12

Carefully lift the glass off the regulator and angle the slider (blue arrow) out through the gap in the upper rear corner. Once the slider is clear, the window can be lifted out of the door.

The front stop (purple arrow) and adjustable rear slider/stop (blue arrow) are mounted to the glass, as is the regulator rail.
Figure 13

The front stop (purple arrow) and adjustable rear slider/stop (blue arrow) are mounted to the glass, as is the regulator rail. If the existing glass is being reinstalled, resist the temptation to clean it now -- the dirt marks will aid in alignment and adjustment. Installation is the reverse of removal.

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Comments and Suggestions:
bigjim Comments: Can the metal angle bracket window stop on the window be re-glued back on? If so, what kind of glue do I use?
March 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not sure, I would assume with the correct adhesive, yes. I would contact a local glass shop and see what they have. They may be able to glue it on for you. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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