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Pelican Technical Article:

Starter Replacement

Tom Morr

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$175

Talent:

**

Tools:

E14 socket, 13mm, 12 socket and extensions

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz R170 (1998-04)

Parts Required:

New or rebuilt starter

Hot Tip:

Make sure you have disconnected the battery

Performance Gain:

Car cranks easily again

Complementary Modification:

Replace ground strap

The starter on the SLK230 is relatively easy to change compared to other Mercedes but it still involves working in a tight spot. If you have a little patience you can change it out in under an hour.

Begin by disconnecting the ground strap from the negative terminal on the battery and making sure it cannot accidentally come in contact with it while you are working on the car. The starter has a constant 12V lead attached to the terminal and you can cause severe damage to both the car and also yourself if you accidentally touch this terminal and some other grounded part without the battery being disconnected. Don't take any chances; make sure you disconnect the battery.

You will have to jack up and safely support the vehicle. Please see our article on jacking up and supporting your car.

With the vehicle safely lifted and supported remove the lower engine tray. There are four 8mm bolts holding the tray on, remove these and lower the tray.

There are two E14 Torx bolts holding the starter to the bell housing. While you can remove the upper one from below, the bolts are held on with a fair amount of torque and I recommend breaking the upper bolt loose and removing from above. The upper one is located on the left side of the engine below the intake manifold.

The electrical connections for the starter are held in place at two points. The first one is a 12mm nut that holds the harness to the starter and the second is a 13mm nut that connects the wiring to the starter. If you have not already disconnected the battery make sure to do it now and then remove the 12mm nut.

With the harness mount disconnected you can remove the lower E14 Torx bolt.

I have found it is much easier to turn the free starter upside down and remove the 13mm nut from the wiring using a long extension. You can now slip the starter down and out of the engine bay.

Installation is the reverse of removal

Begin by disconnecting the ground strap from the terminal on the battery (red arrow) and making sure it can not accidentally come in contact with it while you are working on the car.
Figure 1

Begin by disconnecting the ground strap from the terminal on the battery (red arrow) and making sure it can not accidentally come in contact with it while you are working on the car. The starter has a constant 12V lead attached to the terminal and you can cause damage severe to both the car and also yourself if you accidentally touch this terminal without the battery disconnected. Don't take any chances; make sure you disconnect the battery.

With the vehicle safely lifted and supported remove the lower engine tray.
Figure 2

With the vehicle safely lifted and supported remove the lower engine tray. There are four 8mm bolts (red arrows) holding the tray on, remove these and lower the tray.

There are two E14 Torx bolts holding the starter to the bell housing.
Figure 3

There are two E14 Torx bolts holding the starter to the bell housing. While you can remove the upper one from bellow, they are held on with a fair amount of torque and I recommend breaking it loose and removing from above. The upper one is located on the left side of the engine below the intake manifold (yellow arrow).

The electrical connections for the starter are held in place at two points.
Figure 4

The electrical connections for the starter are held in place at two points. The first one is a 12mm nut (yellow arrow) that holds the harness to the starter and the second is a 13mm nut (red arrow) that connects the wiring to the starter. If you have not already disconnected the battery, make sure to do it now and then remove the 12mm nut.

With the harness mount disconnected (yellow arrow) you can remove the lower E14 Torx bolt (red arrow).
Figure 5

With the harness mount disconnected (yellow arrow) you can remove the lower E14 Torx bolt (red arrow).

I have found it is much easier to turn the free starter upside down and remove the 13mm nut (yellow arrow) from the wiring using a long extension (red arrow).
Figure 6

I have found it is much easier to turn the free starter upside down and remove the 13mm nut (yellow arrow) from the wiring using a long extension (red arrow). You can now slip the starter down and out of the engine bay.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Ellerjucs1 Comments: HERE'S MY SLK230 ERROR, FROM ME-SFI
October 8, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Those could be from missing power. Check if the sensor and the actuator have power and ground. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ellerjucs1 Comments: F1=0, VIO/WHT
C1=0, RED/GRN
A1=12V, RED
A2=12V, RED/BLK
A4=11.4V, BLU/GRN
A5=0, BRN
B1=12V, RED/WHT
B2=12V PNK/RED
October 8, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have the wiring for your vehicle, so I can;t be 100% sure, but the missing link might be C1, possibly ignition voltage should be present. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ellerjucs1 Comments: I'm having issues on getting the pulse to crank my starter. Voltage measurements on my pulse module I have 12V on B-2 and A-2 doesn't pulse when my ignition key is on #3 position.
Here are my voltage measurements on my pulse module pins:
ignition pos2: F1=0, C1=0, A1=12V, A2=12V, A4=11.4V, A5=0, B1=0V, B2=12V
ignition pos3: F1=0, C1=0, A1=12V, A2=12V, A4=11.4V, A5=0, B1=12V, B2=12V

Do you know what's wrong?
September 26, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What vehicle are you working on? What connector numbers and terminals are you getting that info from? - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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