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Front Anti-Swaybar Removal
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Front Anti-Swaybar Removal

Tom Morr

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$12

Talent:

*

Tools:

Sockets/ratchet, combination wrenches

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz R170 (1998-04)

Parts Required:

Replacement bushings

Hot Tip:

Point the tires outward for better nut access

Performance Gain:

Flatter cornering

Complementary Modification:

Grease the lock cylinder

The front anti-swaybar allows the car to corner flatter. It ties both sides of the suspension together, limiting body roll during side-to-side weight transfer.

On the assembly line, the R170's anti-swaybar is mounted to the car with rubber bushings. Over time, road grime and ozone degrade the rubber. Eventually, the metal bar can contact the metal mounts. Annoying sounds result, and body roll control is compromised.

Fortunately, the bar is easy to remove. Then the bar's four bushings are simply slid off its ends. OE-style rubber bushings are affordable and offer smooth, quiet performance. Some owners opt for polyurethane bushings. These are made of harder, more durable material that's impervious to grease, oil and most other chemicals. Polyurethane will still wear as the bar moves inside it, but its lifespan is normally significantly longer than rubber. Because polyurethane is harder than rubber, the resulting ride can be stiffer. Polyurethane can also be squeakier than rubber.

Stiffer aftermarket anti-swaybars are also available. These are targeted for spirited drivers. They compromise straight-line smoothness in favor of squattier handling.

To begin you'll need to safely jack the front of the car up and place jack stands under the front part of the chassis. Refer to our article on safely lifting your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses whenever you work under your auto.

First, remove the lower engine cover to improve working space.
Figure 1

First, remove the lower engine cover to improve working space. Each of the four anti-swaybar mounting brackets is held on with two fasteners (arrows point to inboard right bolts/nuts).

A deep socket works best for the outboard mounts.
Figure 2

A deep socket works best for the outboard mounts. Removing the tires likely isn't necessary, but pointing the tire outward helps the ratchet clear the caliper and steering knuckle. (The inner fender liner was removed here for another article.)

Once the nuts are removed from the outboard mounts' studs, the brackets can be lifted off (arrow).
Figure 3

Once the nuts are removed from the outboard mounts' studs, the brackets can be lifted off (arrow).

Removing the metal arms that connect the inboard anti-swaybar mounts to the car isn't necessary.
Figure 4

Removing the metal arms that connect the inboard anti-swaybar mounts to the car isn't necessary. Here, the left inboard mount's lower bolt is out (yellow arrow points to hole); the red arrow indicates the upper bolt.

With the mounting brackets removed, the anti-swaybar can be lifted off the car.
Figure 5

With the mounting brackets removed, the anti-swaybar can be lifted off the car.

To replace the bushings, push the metal mounts off the rubber and then slide the bushings out and off the ends of the anti-swaybar.
Figure 6

To replace the bushings, push the metal mounts off the rubber and then slide the bushings out and off the ends of the anti-swaybar.

Reverse the process for re-installation.
Figure 7

Reverse the process for re-installation. The OE bar is marked on the right side to eliminate any orientation confusion.

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Page last updated: Mon 3/27/2017 02:44:01 AM