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Interior Rear Wall Panel Removal
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Interior Rear Wall Panel Removal

Tom Morr

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$277

Talent:

**

Tools:

Phillips screwdriver, flatblade screwdriver, trim panel tool

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz R170 (1998-04)

Parts Required:

None, unless panel needs to be replaced

Hot Tip:

Move the seats as far forward as possible

Performance Gain:

Allows access to components behind the panel

Complementary Modification:

Add a subwoofer

The interior rear wall paneling normally only needs to be removed if a component behind it fails. The task might seem daunting but is actually fairly easy.

The bulk of the work involves removing the various trim pieces and accessories that are over the textile panel piece. Please refer to the article on the B-pillar panels for that preliminary, which requires Torx and combination wrenches.

The roof will need to be lowered at least part way in order to remove the plastic top panel, which covers the rear panel's top edge. Also, the rear console in our project 2000 SLK230 Kompressor was loose from a previous article, but the rear panel should be able to shimmy out with the console in its proper location.

In case the rear panel is rotted from weather or needs to be replaced for any reason, the part number is 170-690-07-41-MBZ.

First, the doorsill plates are lifted off.
Figure 1

First, the doorsill plates are lifted off.

Each sill plate has two clips (red arrows) that secure it to the body.
Figure 2

Each sill plate has two clips (red arrows) that secure it to the body.

Remove the B-pillar panel covers.
Figure 3

Remove the B-pillar panel covers. Please refer to that article for details.

Peel off the edge guards on both sides.
Figure 4

Peel off the edge guards on both sides.

The arrows indicate the panel's attachment points to the body.
Figure 5

The arrows indicate the panel's attachment points to the body. An additional trans-tunnel one on the right side isn't visible.

A trim panel tool is handy for removing the plastic plugs that hold the roll bar panel onto the body studs.
Figure 6

A trim panel tool is handy for removing the plastic plugs that hold the roll bar panel onto the body studs. Possible alternatives include a plastic putty knife. Two similar plugs are located on either side of the transmission tunnel at the floorboard.

The outboard retaining nubs can be twisted off by hand.
Figure 7

The outboard retaining nubs can be twisted off by hand.

The ruffled pouch clips to the body through the panel.
Figure 8

The ruffled pouch clips to the body through the panel.

The pouch has six clips (red arrows).
Figure 9

The pouch has six clips (red arrows). Sliding the pouch's perimeter inward frees it from the body.

A Phillips screw holds on each coat hook.
Figure 10

A Phillips screw holds on each coat hook.

The hooks have hooks that secure their bottom sides to the body.
Figure 11

The hooks have hooks that secure their bottom sides to the body.

The draft stop loop (red arrow) on each side either needs to be unbolted from the roll bar.
Figure 12

The draft stop loop (red arrow) on each side either needs to be unbolted from the roll bar. Or, the top panel's plastic trim rings must be carefully pried over the loops.

With the top at least partly down, the top cover panel is lifted off over the roll bars.
Figure 13

With the top at least partly down, the top cover panel is lifted off over the roll bars.

On cars equipped with the Bose sound system, carefully pull or pry off the speaker grilles.
Figure 14

On cars equipped with the Bose sound system, carefully pull or pry off the speaker grilles.

The rear wall panel can now be pulled forward off the body studs.
Figure 15

The rear wall panel can now be pulled forward off the body studs. Then it's lifted upward and out of the car.

The rear wall panel is easy to vacuum or shampoo when it's out of the car.
Figure 16

The rear wall panel is easy to vacuum or shampoo when it's out of the car.

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