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Replacing the Climate Control Amplifier
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing the Climate Control Amplifier

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$130

Talent:

**

Tools:

Flathead screwdriver, 8mm wrench

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz R107 (1972-80)

Parts Required:

TC-4 Thermocouple Amplifier (4 Channel) Pelican Part Number INN-3784

Hot Tip:

Use a flashlight

Performance Gain:

Working electronics

Complementary Modification:

Upgrade amplifier

The Mercedes Benz 450SL is considered by many to be one of the most attractive cars Mercedes produced. It is a stylized combination of power, grace, and comfort and was sold under the model designation R107. At over 3,600 pounds and designed to meet (and actually exceed) strict safety regulations, the 450SL was nicknamed "der Panzerwagen", which means "the armored car", by the engineers who designed it. The 450SL was produced from 1973 through 1980, after which the R107 became known as the 280, 380 and 500 SL.

SL variant was a 2-seat convertible/roadster with standard soft top and optional hardtop and optional folding seats for the rear bench. The designation SL derives from the German Sport Leicht, or Sport Lightweight and was first applied to the infamous gullwing 300SL. The 450SL was the third generation SL. The SLC (C107) derivative was a 2 door hardtop coupe with normal rear seats. The SLC is commonly referred to as a 'SL coupe', and this was the first time that Mercedes-Benz had based a coupe on an SL roadster platform rather than on a sedan, replacing the 280 and 300 SE coupe.

If you are having issues with your AC, chances are the climate control amplifier may be compromised. To get to the amplifier you must first remove the glove box then remove the vacuum elements.

Before you do any work on your car it is important that you wear safety glasses, work gloves and dispose of all fluids in a safe manner. Coolant is poisonous and should be treated as such. Animals and small children have been known to die from ingesting coolant. If you have to jack up your car, make sure to use jack stands and chock your wheels as well as applying the parking brake. Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you're working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability. Always wear eye and hand protection. Disconnect the battery before working on your car.

Using a flat head screwdriver, pry off the plastic fastener that holds the glove box in place.
Figure 1

Using a flat head screwdriver, pry off the plastic fastener that holds the glove box in place. Be careful not to break the inset or the fastener. There will be two fasteners to remove.

Lift the glove box out from the instrument panel.
Figure 2

Lift the glove box out from the instrument panel.

Once the glove box is out, you will see the vacuum element for the defrost changeover flap located to the right side of the cavity.
Figure 3

Once the glove box is out, you will see the vacuum element for the defrost changeover flap located to the right side of the cavity.

Using a Phillips head screwdriver, loosen and remove the two screws holding the bracket that holds the vacuum element.
Figure 4

Using a Phillips head screwdriver, loosen and remove the two screws holding the bracket that holds the vacuum element.

Using an 8mm wrench, loosen and remove the two bolts that hold the bracket to the chassis.
Figure 5

Using an 8mm wrench, loosen and remove the two bolts that hold the bracket to the chassis. You can also use a 20" extension which would make getting to the bolt.

The flap is actuated by a small rod which is attached to the vacuum valve.
Figure 6

The flap is actuated by a small rod which is attached to the vacuum valve. The rod is easily removed from the flap by pulling it in a lateral fashion. First remove the actuating rod for the vacuum element for the fresh air flap.

There is a rod which connects the vacuum element for the defrost changeover flap that has to be freed.
Figure 7

There is a rod which connects the vacuum element for the defrost changeover flap that has to be freed.

There is a vacuum tube on the vacuum element for the fresh air flap as well as a tube for the vacuum element for the defrost changeover valve that has to be loosened and removed.
Figure 8

There is a vacuum tube on the vacuum element for the fresh air flap as well as a tube for the vacuum element for the defrost changeover valve that has to be loosened and removed.

The vacuum elements are now free.
Figure 9

The vacuum elements are now free.

Using an 8mm wrench, loosen and remove the two bolts holding the amplifier bracket.
Figure 10

Using an 8mm wrench, loosen and remove the two bolts holding the amplifier bracket.

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Comments and Suggestions:
304065 Comments: You don't need to remove the entire bank of valves and under no cirumstances should you start removing vacuum lines. Just remove the screws holding the lower dash panel, remove the wires for the lower dash panel lamp, and remove the right side heater ducts both flex and rigid. This allows you to access the amplifier screws.
July 12, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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