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Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing the Steering Dampener Strut

Mike Holloway

Time:

30min

Tab:

$26 to $37

Talent:

*

Tools:

17mm socket wrench, needle nose pliers, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, lug wrench, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz R107 (1972-80)

Parts Required:

Steering dampener strut Pelican Part # 000-463-51-32-M12 Bilstein or 000-463-51-32-M24 Stabilus

Hot Tip:

Use copious amounts of penetrating release spray

Performance Gain:

Better handing and smoother ride, tighter handing, increased tire life

Complementary Modification:

Get a professional front wheel or four wheel alignment

As you turn your steering wheel a steering column shaft rotates in the steering column. This steering shaft is attached to the power steering gearbox. The gearbox changes the twisting motion of the steering column shaft into a back and forth motion of the Pitman Arm. The Pitman Arm is attached to the center link and moves the center link to the left and right therefore changing the angle of the tires. As the suspension moves up and down and the car hits bumps the steering linkages absorb the shock and jolts of the suspension movement. In an effort to suppress the shocks and jolts of the suspension, Mercedes Benz uses a steering dampener between the chassis sub-frame and the center link. It does this by slowing down the movement of the steering center link. The steering dampener is like a shock absorber for the steering center link. This helps add to steering stability particularly while the car corners over a series of bumps. The following are the steps involved in changing the steering dampener.

Remember that your car may have been serviced before and had parts replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Lift and support the front axle of the vehicle, after putting those stylish safety glasses on your face. You don't have to remove the front tires to perform this job but it does make access much easier since you may not have access to an automotive lift. See our tech article on jacking and supporting your vehicle and removing the front tires.

Before you do any work on your car it is important that you wear safety glasses and work gloves. If you have to jack up your car, make sure to use jack stands and chock your wheels as well as applying the parking brake. Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability. Always disconnect the battery before working on your car.

Lift and support the front axle of the vehicle.
Figure 1

Lift and support the front axle of the vehicle. Place a jack stand under the lower control arm. You have to remove the tires to perform this job, which makes access much easier since you may not have the use of an automotive lift. See our tech article on jacking and supporting your vehicle and removing the front tires. 

I placed a jack stand under the chassis as well.
Figure 2

I placed a jack stand under the chassis as well. These pictures are of the passenger side of the vehicle. Placing a jack stand under the chassis provides additional safety.

The steering dampener strut is held on using a crown bolt and cotter pin arrangement.
Figure 3

The steering dampener strut is held on using a crown bolt and cotter pin arrangement.

Using needle nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin.
Figure 4

Using needle nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin.

Using a 17mm socket, loosen and remove the bolt holding the steering dampener strut.
Figure 5

Using a 17mm socket, loosen and remove the bolt holding the steering dampener strut. The center link is now free to be removed. Replacement is the reverse of removal.

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Page last updated: Wed 12/7/2016 03:06:45 AM