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Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing the Drag Link Bushings

Mike Holloway

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$54 to $87

Talent:

**

Tools:

17mm socket wrench, needle nose pliers, floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, safety glasses, lug wrench, torque wrench

Applicable Models:

Mercedes-Benz R107 (1972-80)

Parts Required:

Drag link Pelican Part #107-460-06-05-M69 (Lemforder) or Pelican Part #107-460-06-05-MBZ (Mercedes Benz)

Hot Tip:

Use plenty of penetrating oil

Performance Gain:

Better handing, less vibration, smoother ride, and increased tire life

Complementary Modification:

Have the car professionally aligned

As you turn your steering wheel a steering column shaft rotates in the steering column. This steering shaft is attached to the power steering gearbox. The gearbox changes the twisting motion of the steering column shaft into a back and forth motion of the Pitman Arm. The Pitman Arm is attached to the center link and moves the center link to the left and right therefore changing the angle of the tires. As the suspension moves up and down and the car hits bumps the steering linkages absorb the shock and jolts of the suspension movement. In an effort to suppress the shocks and jolts of the suspension, Mercedes Benz uses a steering dampener between the chassis sub-frame and the center link. It does this by slowing down the movement of the steering center link. The steering dampener is like a shock absorber for the steering center link and this helps add to steering stability particularly while the car corners over a series of bumps. The drag link connects the pitman arm to the steering arm. Unlike a center link, the drag link does not connect to an idler arm, and has no inner tie rod ends attached to it. When the bushings begin to wear you may feel a shudder or looseness in steering. In this tech article I will go over the steps involved in changing your drag link.

Lift and support the front axle of the vehicle, after placing those ever so stylish safety glasses over your ears and on the front of your face. You do not need to remove the tires to perform this job but it does make access much easier since you may not have access to an automotive lift. See our tech article on jacking and supporting your vehicle and removing the front tires.

Remember your car may have been serviced before and had parts replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts I give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Before you do any work on your car it is important that you wear safety glasses and work gloves. If you have to jack up your car, make sure to use jack stands and chock your wheels as well as applying the parking brake. Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability. Always disconnect the battery before working on your car.

Lift and support the front axle of the vehicle.
Figure 1

Lift and support the front axle of the vehicle. Place a jack stand under the lower control arm. You have to remove the tires to perform this job, which makes access much easier since you may not have the use of an automotive lift. See our tech article on jacking and supporting your vehicle and removing the front tires. 

I placed a jack stand under the chassis as well.
Figure 2

I placed a jack stand under the chassis as well. Placing a jack stand under the chassis provides additional safety.

The drag ling has a crown bolt with a cotter pin attached.
Figure 3

The drag ling has a crown bolt with a cotter pin attached. There may be a layer of grease or debris covering it. In order to get at the cotter pin you may have to wash off the grease or debris.

Using needle nose pliers, straighten the cotter pin and pull it through the crown bolt.
Figure 4

Using needle nose pliers, straighten the cotter pin and pull it through the crown bolt.

Using a 17mm socket, loosen and remove the crown bolt that holds the drag link.
Figure 5

Using a 17mm socket, loosen and remove the crown bolt that holds the drag link. The drag link and bushings are now free to be replaced. Replacement is the reverse of removal.

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Page last updated: Mon 12/5/2016 03:05:31 AM