Mercedes-Benz Parts CatalogMercedes-Benz Accessories CatalogMercedes-Benz Technical ArticlesMercedes-Benz Tech Forums
 
Follow Pelican Parts on FacebookFollow Pelican Parts on TwitterFollow Pelican Parts on InstagramFollow Pelican Parts on YouTubeFollow Pelican Parts on PinterestFollow Pelican Parts on Tumblr
  Search our site:   
View Recent Cars  |  Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help    
Get FREE Ground Shipping with the purchase of $75 in qualifying parts!
 

Bookmark and Share

 


Pelican Technical Article:
Window Regulator Replacement

Jared Fenton
 

 
Time: 3 hours
Tab: $100
Talent: 
Tools:
Torx and hex drivers, screwdrivers, rivet gun, drill
Applicable Models:
W210 E320 (1996-02)
W210 E300 (1996-97)
W210 E420 (1997)
W210 E430 (1998-99)
W210 E55 (1998-02)
Parts Required:
New regulators
Hot Tip:
Disconnect battery
Performance Gain:
Windows roll up again
Complementary Modification:
Replace clips on door panels.
 
  

  

Check out some other projects from our technical library: 

Need to buy parts for this project? Click here to order!
  
     Are you hearing a crunching, grinding noise every time you press the window switch? Is the window not moving? Chances are, your window regulator has broken and must be replaced. This is one of those items that unfortunately has a long history of failure. Replacement involves removing the inner door panel and drilling out the rivets

     Begin by disconnecting the battery. Do this before you do anything else. You will be working around the airbag mounted in the door as well as the power leads to the window motors and power seat switch. If you happen to accidentally touch a lead with something metal, you risk shorting out the system, triggering the airbag or worse. Be safe here, remove the small plastic window at the bottom of the rear seat on the right side and disconnect the battery. Let the car sit for a half hour before you do any work on it. This allows the system to discharge and prevent any potential problems.

     In this article, we will go over the procedure for replacing both the front and rear window regulators for the Mercedes Benz W210 chassis. The front and rear windows use two different types of regulators. The front regulator uses a scissor style design while the rear regulator uses a cable and pulley type setup. The rear window regulators seem to be more failure prone then the front due to the design of the cable and pulley setup.

For the Front Window Regulator:

The first step in replacing the window regulator is to disconnect the battery.
Figure 1
The first step in replacing the window regulator is to disconnect the battery. Remove the small plastic plate at the bottom of the rear passenger seat. Underneath is a 12mm nut holding the negative terminal from the battery to ground. Remove the nut and pull the cable off.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Remove the screw holding the door latch cover in place (green arrow).
Figure 2
Remove the screw holding the door latch cover in place (green arrow). Once removed, take the cover off.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Pry out the surround piece around the door handle.
Figure 3
Pry out the surround piece around the door handle. It just pops out. Underneath is a large Phillips head screw. Remove the screw and set it aside in a safe place.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Pry out the “SRS Airbag” cover piece (green arrow).
Figure 4
Pry out the “SRS Airbag” cover piece (green arrow). Below is a Phillips head screw. Remove the screw and set it aside in a safe place. Also unscrew the door lock button (purple arrow).
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Remove the trim plug underneath the door pull.
Figure 5
Remove the trim plug underneath the door pull. Beneath is a Phillips head screw as well. Remove the screw.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Pry out the light switch along the bottom edge of the door panel.
Figure 6
Pry out the light switch along the bottom edge of the door panel. Disconnect the wires going to the light.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
You’ll now need to take a large flat head screwdriver and pry the door panel off along the front bottom and back edges (green arrows).
Figure 7
You’ll now need to take a large flat head screwdriver and pry the door panel off along the front bottom and back edges (green arrows). There are a series of plastic clips holding it in. If you work your way around the edges, you’ll be able to remove the panel without breaking any of the clips. If some do get broken, it’s not a big deal as they are not expensive to replace (MBZ part number 011 988 76 78). There are nine of them around the perimeter of the front door panel.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Once you have popped the edges of the door panel free, lift the door panel up to release it from the top edge of the door near the window.
Figure 8
Once you have popped the edges of the door panel free, lift the door panel up to release it from the top edge of the door near the window. Once removed, look inside. You’ll see the metal hook connecting the door handle to the release latch. Lift the hook out (green arrow).
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Now look at the backside of the seat adjustment switch.
Figure 9
Now look at the backside of the seat adjustment switch. You’ll see the electrical harness going to the switch (green arrow). Pull the harness out of the switch. Also pull the harness going to the lower door light out of the door panel.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Use some painters tape around the window as shown here.
Figure 10
Use some painters tape around the window as shown here. This will hold the window up in place once you remove the regulator from the guide rail at the bottom of the window.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
With the door panel removed, you’ll see the plastic moisture barrier on the door panel.
Figure 11
With the door panel removed, you’ll see the plastic moisture barrier on the door panel. You’ll want to carefully peel this off the inside of the door starting at the rear edge of the door (green arrow). The idea is to peel it off in just a way so that it can be glued back onto the door later. Just let the plastic drape over the speaker at the front of the door.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Locate and remove the electrical connection going to the window motor.
Figure 12
Locate and remove the electrical connection going to the window motor.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Loosen the Torx adjustment bolt at the top of the door (green arrow).
Figure 13
Loosen the Torx adjustment bolt at the top of the door (green arrow). You can access the bolt through the small hole seen here.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Locate the rivets that hold the window regulator in place.
Figure 14
Locate the rivets that hold the window regulator in place. There are 6 rivets that hold the regulator in place on each front door (green arrows). Also take note of the locating tab (yellow arrow). This tab locates the overall position of the regulator inside the door.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
You’ll now want to drill out the rivets holding the regulator in place.
Figure 15
You’ll now want to drill out the rivets holding the regulator in place. This is a little tricky, but you only want to drill until the head of the rivet pops off. Once all the rivets have been drilled out, maneuver the locating tab out of the notch on the door and rotate the regulator until you can access the three Torx screws that hold the window motor to the regulator.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Inside the door panel, you’ll need to slide the metal and plastic mounting guides of the regulator out of the lower window channel.
Figure 16
Inside the door panel, you’ll need to slide the metal and plastic mounting guides of the regulator out of the lower window channel. This is one of those things that can be a bit difficult to do. Just reach up inside the door and push the guides towards the front of the door. Once they are free of the window channel, lower the regulator down enough to access the three Torx screws that hold the motor to the regulator (green arrows). Once free, pull the motor off the back of the regulator. Now remove the regulator from the inside of the door.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
ThisPicture shows the top arms of the new regulator.
Figure 17
This picture shows the top arms of the new regulator. You’ll want to keep the arms in this relative position. Loosen the hex bolt on the right arm slightly (green arrow), so that you can slide the back piece into the bottom window rail inside the door.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Now fit the new window regulator up inside the door.
Figure 18
Now fit the new window regulator up inside the door. You’ll want to slide the guides on the ends of the two upper arms into the channel on the underside of the door. Rotate the arms of the regulator so that the two upper guide rails slide onto the bottom of the window rail. Make sure that you get the orientation of the metal guide correct. Leave the hex bolt of the guide loose at this point. Now re-install the motor on the back of the regulator using the three Torx bolts.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Once the motor is secured, rotate the regulator until you can locate the mounting tab into the slot on the door (green arrow).
Figure 19
Once the motor is secured, rotate the regulator until you can locate the mounting tab into the slot on the door (green arrow). You may find that having a helper lower the window glass makes this easier.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
The regulator must now be riveted in place.
Figure 20
The regulator must now be riveted in place. Place the rivets through the holes in the door and also the regulator on the other side of the holes (green arrows). It helps if you have a helper hold the regulator to the backside of the door while you fit the rivets. I found that the factory Mercedes rivets are incredibly difficult to use without a heavy duty rivet gun. I actually broke the handle of our rivet gun trying to get one of them to seat on the door. I ended up using rivets from Home Depot instead. Once the front part of the regulator has been riveted to the panel, rotate the rear arm so that the holes line up with the holes in the door and rivet it in place.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Now reconnect the electrical plug going to the motor and glue the moisture barrier back onto the door frame.
Figure 21
Now reconnect the electrical plug going to the motor and glue the moisture barrier back onto the door frame. I used silicone adhesive that dries clear to do the job. At this point, you can re-connect the battery to test the function of the new regulator. Press the window going up as far as it will go, then hold the switch for 5 seconds. This will calibrate the new regulator. Once calibrated, tighten the hex bolt through the small opening through the door (green arrow). Now re-fit the door panel.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
One thing you may encounter when putting the door panel back on is a mounting piece that has broken free of the glue holding it to the door panel.
Figure 22
One thing you may encounter when putting the door panel back on is a mounting piece that has broken free of the glue holding it to the door panel. If so, just clean the backside of the mounting piece and then glue and clamp it to the back of the panel. Once dried, you can install the new tabs in the mount and re-fit the door panel.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Whenever you disconnect the seat adjustment switch, the motors in the seat will lose calibration and the switch may even work backwards.
Figure 23
Whenever you disconnect the seat adjustment switch, the motors in the seat will lose calibration and the switch may even work backwards. What you’ll need to do is look under the front of the seat and disconnect the connector going to the seat motors. Once you plug it back in, push the switch as far forward as it will go and hold it there for 5 seconds. This will re-calibrate the switch.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image

For the Rear Window Regulator:

Use some painters tape around the window as shown here.
Figure 24
Use some painters tape around the window as shown here. This will hold the window up in place once you remove the regulator from the guide rail at the bottom of the window.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
To remove the rear door panel, begin by removing the screw holding the door latch cover in place (green arrow).
Figure 25
To remove the rear door panel, begin by removing the screw holding the door latch cover in place (green arrow). Once removed, take the cover off.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Pry out the surround piece around the door handle (green arrow).
Figure 26
Pry out the surround piece around the door handle (green arrow). Underneath is a large Phillips head screw. Remove the screw and set it aside in a safe place.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Remove the trim plug underneath the door pull.
Figure 27
Remove the trim plug underneath the door pull. Beneath is a Phillips head screw as well. Remove the screw.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Pry out the light switch along the bottom edge of the door panel.
Figure 28
Pry out the light switch along the bottom edge of the door panel. Disconnect the wires going to the light.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
You’ll now need to take a large flat head screwdriver and pry the door panel off along the front bottom and back edges (green arrows).
Figure 29
You’ll now need to take a large flat head screwdriver and pry the door panel off along the front bottom and back edges (green arrows). There are a series of plastic clips holding it in. If you work your way around the edges, you’ll be able to remove the panel without breaking any of the clips. If some do get broken, it’s not a big deal as they are not expensive to replace (MBZ part number 011 988 76 78). There are nine of them around the perimeter of the front door panel.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
With the door panel removed, you’ll see the plastic moisture barrier on the door panel.
Figure 30
With the door panel removed, you’ll see the plastic moisture barrier on the door panel. You’ll want to carefully peel this off the inside of the door starting at the rear edge of the door (green arrow). The idea is to peel it off in just a way so that it can be glued back onto the door later. Just let the plastic drape over the speaker at the front of the door.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Locate the rivets that hold the window regulator in place.
Figure 31
Locate the rivets that hold the window regulator in place. There are 6 rivets that hold the regulator in place on each front door (green arrows). Also take note of the locating tab (yellow arrow). This tab locates the overall position of the regulator inside the door.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
You’ll now want to drill out the rivets holding the regulator in place.
Figure 32
You’ll now want to drill out the rivets holding the regulator in place. Use the drill only until the head of the rivet pops off.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Disconnect the electrical connection going to the rear window motor.
Figure 33
Disconnect the electrical connection going to the rear window motor.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Inside the door panel, you’ll need to remove the black plastic retaining clip that fits into the bottom edge of the window rail.
Figure 34
Inside the door panel, you’ll need to remove the black plastic retaining clip that fits into the bottom edge of the window rail. This picture here shows the window rolled down to show how the clip fits into the rail (green arrow). Just pull the clip down, then slide the plastic guide out of the rail. At this point, you should be able to remove the regulator out of the door.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
ThisPicture shows the bottom of the plastic clip with the window raised (green arrow).
Figure 35
This picture shows the bottom of the plastic clip with the window raised (green arrow).
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
ThisPicture shows the regulator guide with the plastic clip removed.
Figure 36
This picture shows the regulator guide with the plastic clip removed.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Shown here are the two Torx screws that hold the motor to the rear regulator (green arrows).
Figure 37
Shown here are the two Torx screws that hold the motor to the rear regulator (green arrows). Remove the two screws and rotate the motor to release it from the regulator.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
ThisPicture shows the splined shaft on the motor and the splined pulley inside the regulator.
Figure 38
This picture shows the splined shaft on the motor and the splined pulley inside the regulator.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
You’ll want to position the top pulley of the new regulator (green arrow) the same as the old one as shown here (yellow arrow).
Figure 39
You’ll want to position the top pulley of the new regulator (green arrow) the same as the old one as shown here (yellow arrow). Simply pull down on the pulley until it stops at the top of the regulator.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Fit the motor into the new regulator and rotate it into position.
Figure 40
Fit the motor into the new regulator and rotate it into position. When in place, re-install the two Torx screws to hold it down.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Now fit the new regulator assembly up inside the door.
Figure 41
Now fit the new regulator assembly up inside the door. You’ll first want to slide the plastic guide up into the bottom rail of the window and re-install the black plastic clip.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Now install the rivets through the holes in the door and also the mounting holes in the regulator.
Figure 43
Now install the rivets through the holes in the door and also the mounting holes in the regulator.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Use the rivet gun to secure the rivets.
Figure 44
Use the rivet gun to secure the rivets.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Glue the moisture barrier back onto the door.
Figure 45
Glue the moisture barrier back onto the door.
Large Image | Extra-Large Image
Need to buy parts for this project? Click here to order!
Bookmark and Share
Comments and Suggestions:
w124230eComments: Hi, i have a problem replacing the two windows regulator motors for a 230E W124 1986. The problem is that i dont know where exactly goes the electrical cables connected. I heard some model have a black plastic part where this cables goes, but mine just have that part in front windows, the rear ones does not have this, so i dont know how to make them work. I tested the regulators connecting them to the front electric part, and the work, but pressing the front switch in the panel, when pressing rear switches does nothing. So i think there is something missing in rear doors. Any idea?
March 26, 2014
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Follow the wires from the door jamb area. If there are connectors, they will begin there. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
AlexComments: Quick question. I have a 1990 300E with the rear passenger door window only rolls up until there is an inch or two gap between the window and it being fully closed. Do I need to replace the entire motor and regulator rod? Or can I simply pull the motor out and move the teeth into the fully up position and reinstall it? I just need to get the window up and the gap closed as a temporary fix.
February 19, 2014
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: For a temporary fix, you can remove the glass from the regulator connection, then tape it up in place. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
uno61977Comments: What is the name of that black clip under the window track??
January 20, 2014
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Can you share a photo of the clip? I might be able to help once I see it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ScottyComments: I really like your expert help on these repairs. I have a 2001 E320.
Im following your instructions and I notice that Figure's 27, 28 and 29 are missing, along with the text explanation. This part addresses the removal of the Door Panel. I'm stuck, in that I don't want to much force and break something important. Can you post the missing parts of the tutorial.
Thanks
December 3, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry about that, I will forward this off to my staff to investigate. - Wayne at Pelican Parts  
stefano. Comments: thanks ..your the only site with REAL answers. I have a 96 e420 rear window cables slipped off a pulley wheel.BIG head ache.coiled wire inside doorpanel...Cliped a vicegrip to the rail until I can get a to pro help me with it. very hard to remove the steel panel after you remove the panel cover..why the CABLES?? not the best idea from benz& co.
November 9, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the window glass slides are properly lubricated then it should last a long time. A lot of Euro manufactures use cables (AUDI, BMW, etc.) not on every model but a lot. Benz has metal scissor type regulators in MLs and they break also. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
TomComments: Kerry, I called your part center and ordered the black retaining clip, but you still didn't answer my question. Here it goes again- I now see that the black clip holds the door window to the regulator. The window has somehow gotten unattached to the regulator because the black clip is broken, can the window be reattached without buying an entire regulator? If so, how can I get the white plastic guide piece back into the bottom of the rail?, I tried moving the window left to right but it doesn't seem to move far enough to get it reattached.
October 15, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You are going to have to unbolt the regulator from the door and reposition it until you can get the plastic guid piece into the regulator groove. You are probably going to need a helper to hold the glass and move it up and down as you reposition the regulator. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
TomComments: On my 1998 S320. I now see that the black clip holds the door window to the regulator. The window has somehow gotten unattached to the regulator because the black clip is broken, can the window be reattached without buying an entire regulator? If so, how can I get the white square piece back into the silver square piece, I tried moving the window left to right but it doesn't seem to move far enough to get it reattached. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
October 13, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Call our parts specailist at 888 280 7799 to help you get the parts you need. You probably have to disconnect the entire glass from the regulaot, reposition it and mount the two point where the glass attaches to the regulator - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
TomComments: you’ll need to remove the black plastic retaining clip that fits into the bottom edge of the window rail. I have a Mercedes 1998 S320. Can you explain what the black plactic clip is used for. mine is broken. my window motor runs but the window goes down but doesn't go up.
October 13, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm guessing the black p[lastic clip attaches to the glass so the regulaot has something to bolt to. You may need a new glass if you cannot get the clip separatly. - Kerry at Pelican Parts  
FrankComments: I was told there is 4 rivets to be removed and reinstalled on 1997 E300D . Can that be shown ?
September 6, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: We don't have a photo of your specific vehicle. But you will have to drill the rivets out as shwon in this tech article. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bartelsComments: Is there anywhere i can get the cables, everything else seems to be in working order, cables just came off track and are all bent up.
July 2, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, the answer is NO.
This unit has always been sold as an assembly, nobody has individual parts.

-whunter-
 
OwenComments: It is a 1997 Mercedes Benz e420. Thanks
June 19, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Hmm, WIS (MB work information system) claims there is a window control module in the front door, but I can't find it in EPC (MB electronic parts catalog).

Some of these parts are Vin# specific.

In order; The most common issues are:
#1. Window regulator failure.
#2. Window switch failure.
#3. Window control module failure.

I have also encountered many failing K40 Relays, causing an amazing list of issues.

Overload Protection Relay-(K40 Relay)
MB# 2105400072

Application List:
W170.435, 445, 447
W210.055, 072, 272
W463.206, 209, 232, 233, 240, 241
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_Search.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=MBZ&please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&description_side=2105400372&GoSearchSideFlag=&command=DWsearch&command=DWsearch&REFINE=Y&FORUM_REFER=&SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=MBZ&description=2105400072&x=44&y=11

I hope this helps you.
-whunter-
 
OwenComments: Thanks so much for this tutorial. I just received my regulator from you guys front driver side and installed with no glitches. Unfortunately, it seems the window will only roll down. When I push the up button it does nothing. No noises, no movement, no response at all. I tried unplugging, replugging the power to the motor, taking fuses in and out, etc. Nothing seems to work. My window is now all the way down and I can't get it to go up. Any suggestions?
June 19, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: I can make suggestions with vehicle year, make, model.
-whunter-
 
jrockComments: HAVE A 01 Mercedes-Benz CL500 will that work the same when it come to taking the door panel off...??? Thanks for all the help so far..
February 25, 2013
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, yours is totally different.
We hope to add the CL500 in the future.
roy@pelicanparts.com
 
CraigB818Comments: whunter,

thx for the info. I'll check that out. But two things;
1- It seemed like it snapped when the window was in the full closed or full open position, not anywhere in between. Would that still be the binding issue?
2-Doesn't the motor have a build in sensor to reverse if too much pressure or an obstruction a hand or head preventing it from snapping

TIA
October 22, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The binding window guide felt is still possible.

Other possible answers:
Possible incorrect installation of the window regulator, or structural damage of the door.

Was this vehicle previously involved in an accident?
If the door and/or window frame are twisted, your issue can happen.

I suggest a professional body shop inspect inside the door, and install a new regulator for you.

I am not aware of a pressure or torque sensor on these window motors. - whunter
 
CraigB818Comments: Hi,

I'm having as issue after replacing my regulator. The Rear right window on my 93 400SEL has been a prob for years so I searched out a repair on the boards and found my issue. After removing the door panel and drilling out the rivets, I removed the regulator to find the top pulley wheel gone and all the pieces in the door well. Put a new regulator in and up/down in the middle movement worked and sounded fine. Then the cast metal on the slide snapped. See attached picture. I thought the motor had a built in sensing system that stopped the movement at the top and bottom. Are there any adjustments that I missed? Any info and this fix would be greatly appreciated..
I have just replaced my second regulator and the same thing happened, it snapped the slide. Is the motor bad or am I missing something as the replacement seem pretty straight forward.

At wits end and greatly appreciate the help of any Mercedes genius'......
October 22, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The typical reason for this issue is the glass binding in the track.

If the guide rubber/felt on the side tracks came out, it can twist/fold, binding the glass and breaking the new regulator.
roy@pelicanparts.com

- whunter
 
MatthewComments: Thanks for the writeup! It was very helpful.
October 7, 2012
 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You are welcome, glad it helped you.
roy@pelicanparts.com
 

Check out some other sample projects from the book: 

 

Got more questions?  Join us in our Mercedes Benz Technical Forum Message Board and ask a question to one of our many automotive experts.

Or, see what other questions readers have asked about this article...
 Applies to: 1992 300SE, 1993 300SE, 1993 300E, 1994 C280, 1995 C280, 1996 C280, 1997 C280, 1995 C36, 1996 C36, 1997 C36, 1994 E320, 1995 E320, 1994 SL320, 1995 SL320, 1996 SL320, 1997 SL320, 1994 S320, 1995 S320, 1996 S320, 1997 S320, 1998 S320, 1999 S320, 1990 300CE, 1991 300CE, 1992 300CE, 1990 300SL, 1991 300SL, 1992 300SL, 1993 300SL
  Search our site:   

View Cart & CheckOut | Project List | Order Status |  Help    

 

[Home] [Customer Service] [Shopping Cart] [Project/Wish List]
  [Privacy Statement]  [Contact Us] [About Us] [Shipping]

Copyright © Pelican Parts Inc. -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page