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Replacing your Ignition Switch and Lock on your Mercedes Benz
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing your Ignition Switch and Lock on your Mercedes Benz

Steve Vernon

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$220 to $420

Talent:

**

Tools:

T-30 Torx driver, 10mm Hex with a breaker bar, Phillips screw driver, 10mm, 13mm wrenches sockets and extension.

Applicable Models:

 
Mercedes-Benz W124 (1986-95)
Mercedes-Benz W126 (1981-91)
Mercedes-Benz W201 (1984-93)

Parts Required:

New lock assembly

Hot Tip:

Have someone hold the wheel when loosing the steering bolt

Performance Gain:

You can start the car

Complementary Modification:

Install a new steering wheel

Mercedes-Benz W201 models are known to have sudden and catastrophic ignition tumbler failure that can leave you stranded at the side of the road and looking at a lengthy and costly repair. The locking system is made up of three main components: the cover, the tumbler and the steering lock. The tumbler itself can be swapped out with relative ease when working, but is a complete pain to replace when it will not turn.

If your ignition tumbler is starting to act up, do yourself a huge favor and change it out right away. You can buy a new key and tumbler for around $15, that will fit and work, but the key will only fit the ignition, and you will need to carry the original keys for the doors and trunk. You can also order an originally-keyed new tumbler along with a new key that will fit the original locks if you go to a dealership and supply them with the VIN number.

If your key does not turn, before you start cutting things out of the car, try placing a palm sander or other small vibrating tool against the lock while turning the key. This will sometimes help free up the tumbler and get the key to move.

Before you begin any work, make sure the transmission is securely in Park. I know it sounds simple, but the ignition mechanism is directly attached to the transmission linkage and if the car in not in Park, you can have problems with the key and tumbler.

Removal with Working Key:

Begin by disconnecting the negative ground on the battery and covering it so it cannot accidentally ground the battery at any time. Leave the car alone for a minimum of 15 minutes while the residual electricity drains from the system. While airbags are completely safe to handle if worked on correctly, you do not want to work on one while there is an electrical charge in the system.

While waiting, remove the trim piece on the dash surrounding the ignition switch - it just pops right off.

Remove the instrument gauge cluster: please see our Pelican Parts Technical Article on Removing the Instrument Cluster for more information.

Remove the passenger side floor mat and then remove the Phillips-head screw on the foot support.

Under the foot support is a red plug for the airbag, unplug this, it just pulls straight off.

Move to the driver side. On the back side of the steering wheel you will see two access holes in the case. They are on the each side of the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock.

Using a T-30 driver, undo these screws. You will be working blind and the screws will stay in the wheel cover even when undone, but the airbag will loosen while you are turning the screws. When both are completely undone the airbag can be removed from the wheel. Tilt the airbag towards you and remove the plug connector from the wheel to the airbag unit by pulling it out.

Always store the airbag unit with the padded side face up.

There is a 10mm Hex screw holding the wheel to the shaft. You will need to have someone hold the wheel while you use a breaker bar and unscrew it. Never attempt to remove the screw using the steering lock!

With the screw removed, pull the wheel straight off.

With the wheel off you will see a metal cover plate with the contacts for both the airbag and horn. There will usually be a fair amount of carbon dust on the plate and contacts, clean this up and inspect the contacts for damage.

You will need to remove this plate to get access to the stalks. It is held in place by three very small Phillips-head screws that are held in with a Loctite. Be careful removing these as they can easily strip.

Remove the lower dash cover on the driver side and locate the blue wire with a red harness plug. Clip the ZipTie holding the harness to the frame and separate red plugs. Pull the plate forward while feeding the blue wiring harness through the steering shaft cover.

Remove the three screws holding the stalks to the shaft. There are three Phillips-head screws, with the top one being and inch longer than the other two, remember this when reassembling.

Follow the wiring harness from the stalks down to where it connects with the main wiring loom on the lower steering shaft. Disconnect the harness and free up as much slack on the cable as possible.

Wiggle and pull the stalks, along with the steering shaft cover from the shaft mounting plate.

Use a 10mm socket and extension to loosen but not remove the pinch collar securing the steering lock in the steering shaft. Turn the key to position 1 and push in the locking pin on the lower part of the column between the steering shaft and pinch collar.

Use a 13mm socket and extension to remove the two bolts holding the steering main shaft to the dash brace.

Working underneath the dash, remove the two 10mm nuts connecting the steering shaft to a cross brace.

With the steering shaft freed up this will give you more room to get the steering lock and switch assembly out.

If you removed the key, re-insert it and turn the switch to the 1 position. This will allow you to remove the electrical connection on the back of the switch. It is a very tight fit, but you will need to reach in to the gauge cluster opening and wiggle the electrical portion off the back of the switch.

There are two other wires connected to the contact switch on the assembly. You will need to feel around behind the dash and remove them.

With the wires disconnected and the steering shaft free, you will need to basically muscle, move, wiggle and cajole the switch out of the tube on the steering shaft.

With it free of the shaft there is still a cable that links the switch to the lock out on the transmission. You will need to get a 13mm wrench and remove it while it is still in the dash.

If you are only replacing the switch part you may be able to remove while in the dash with a very short Phillips-head screw driver, but the screws are held in place by Loctite so make sure you do not strip them. It is best to remove the transmission cable so you can remove the assembly from the dash to work on it.

Replace the switch, steering lock as needed.

Removal with Non-Functioning Key:

Most of the work will be the same with the following exceptions.

You will not be able to remove the electrical harness from the back unless you can get the key to turn to the 1 position. You will need to use a drill and slide hammer to pull the non-function tumbler from the assembly. With the tumbler out you can use a flathead screwdriver to reach in and turn the rear part of the switch to position 1. This will allow you to remove the wiring harness and should allow the locking pin to be pushed in.

If the lock pin will still not release, you will need to drill it out, do not loosen the pinch clamp or the steering shaft. You are going to have to drill out the lock pin from the steering lock and it is best to have everything as tight as possible when drilling. The pin is hardened steel and will spin but just keep at it until you have drilled out enough to clear the steering lock tube. Then follow the rest of the article.

Needless to say you will need to install all new components of the assembly is you go this route.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Remove the negative ground cable (yellow arrow) from the battery and store in so it can not ground the battery while working.
Figure 1

Remove the negative ground cable (yellow arrow) from the battery and store in so it can not ground the battery while working. Allow the car to sit for at least 15 minutes before working further on it.

Using a small screwdriver, or your trim removal tool, pop out the trim covers on both sides of the steering column for the lower drivers side cover.
Figure 2

Using a small screwdriver, or your trim removal tool, pop out the trim covers on both sides of the steering column for the lower drivers side cover.

Use a Phillips-head screwdriver and remove the three screws holding the under dashboard cover in place (red arrows, only two shown).
Figure 3

Use a Phillips-head screwdriver and remove the three screws holding the under dashboard cover in place (red arrows, only two shown). The cover end by the pedals is mounted in a slot on the firewall. Pull it from its slot and remove it from the car.

Use a trim removal tool or a small screw driver and remove the rosette or trim piece surrounding the lock (red arrow).
Figure 4

Use a trim removal tool or a small screw driver and remove the rosette or trim piece surrounding the lock (red arrow).

Remove the floor mat on the passenger side foot well.
Figure 5

Remove the floor mat on the passenger side foot well. Unscrew the Phillips head screw (yellow arrow) and remove the plastic foot support.

With the foot support removed you can see one of the control units for the airbag (yellow arrow) along with a red plug.
Figure 6

With the foot support removed you can see one of the control units for the airbag (yellow arrow) along with a red plug. Separate these plugs (red arrow).

Use a T-30 and loosen both screws that hold the airbag unit on (red arrow).
Figure 7

Use a T-30 and loosen both screws that hold the airbag unit on (red arrow). The screws are on each side of the back of the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock. If the handle on your Torx screwdriver is too long, try turning the wheel or even removing the lower dash cover to give you more room.

Pull the airbag unit from the wheel and disconnect the plug (red arrows).
Figure 8

Pull the airbag unit from the wheel and disconnect the plug (red arrows). Always store the airbag unit with the logo or padded side facing up.

Use a 10mm Hex and breaker bar to remove the screw holding the wheel to the shaft (red arrow).
Figure 9

Use a 10mm Hex and breaker bar to remove the screw holding the wheel to the shaft (red arrow).Have someone hold the wheel while you break the screw loose, never use the steering lock to hold the wheel in place. In this photo you can see the airbag plug (green arrow) and horn connections (yellow arrows).

On the back side of the steering wheel you can see the horn and airbag contact rings (red arrow) and the access points for the T-30 screws (yellow arrows).
Figure 10

On the back side of the steering wheel you can see the horn and airbag contact rings (red arrow) and the access points for the T-30 screws (yellow arrows). Clean the contact rings with a micro fiber towel.

With the steering wheel removed, you will see a metal plate that holds the horn contacts (green arrows) and the airbag contacts (red arrow).
Figure 11

With the steering wheel removed, you will see a metal plate that holds the horn contacts (green arrows) and the airbag contacts (red arrow). Give this a good cleaning and inspect the contacts for damage (i.e.: pitting and excessive wear). Note; In this picture you can see the key in the ignition, this was only so we could turn the wheel to access the T-30 holes, the battery has been disconnected and there is no charge in the system.

To remove the plate you will need to remove the three very small Phillips head screws (yellow arrows).
Figure 12

To remove the plate you will need to remove the three very small Phillips head screws (yellow arrows). Be careful removing these as they are held in place with Loctite.

To get the plate completely off the steering shaft you will need to remove the airbag harness.
Figure 13

To get the plate completely off the steering shaft you will need to remove the airbag harness. Remove the lower dash cover, clip the ZipTie holding the wiring harness, separate the red connector (yellow arrow) and feed the blue wire up through cover plate and out through the hole (red arrow). The contact plug will only pass out the metal plate one way (green arrow).

Follow the wiring harness from the stalks down to where it connects with the main wiring loom on the lower steering shaft.
Figure 14

Follow the wiring harness from the stalks down to where it connects with the main wiring loom on the lower steering shaft. Disconnect the harness and free up as much slack in the cable as possible. Wiggle and pull the stalks, along with the steering shaft cover from the shaft mounting plate.

Use a 10mm socket and extension to loosen but not remove the pinch collar securing the steering lock in the steering shaft (yellow arrow).
Figure 15

Use a 10mm socket and extension to loosen but not remove the pinch collar securing the steering lock in the steering shaft (yellow arrow). Push in the locking pin (red arrow) on the lower part of the column between the steering shaft and pinch collar.

Use a 13mm socket and extension to remove the two bolts holding the steering main shaft to the dash brace (yellow arrows).
Figure 16

Use a 13mm socket and extension to remove the two bolts holding the steering main shaft to the dash brace (yellow arrows).

If you removed the key, re-insert it and turn the switch to the 1 position.
Figure 17

If you removed the key, re-insert it and turn the switch to the 1 position. This will allow you to remove the electrical connection on the back of the switch (red arrow). It is a very tight fit, but you will need to reach in to the gauge cluster opening and wiggle the electrical portion off the back of the switch.

Working underneath the dash, remove the two 10mm nuts connecting the steering shaft to a cross brace (red arrows).
Figure 18

Working underneath the dash, remove the two 10mm nuts connecting the steering shaft to a cross brace (red arrows).

With everything free, you can maneuver the assembly out of the steering shaft tube.
Figure 19

With everything free, you can maneuver the assembly out of the steering shaft tube. It is still attached to the car by the transmission lock out cable (yellow arrow). Red arrow shows the contact switch.

Use a 13mm wrench and release the cable.
Figure 20

Use a 13mm wrench and release the cable.

Remove the three small Phillips-head screws (red arrows) from the switch portion.
Figure 21

Remove the three small Phillips-head screws (red arrows) from the switch portion.

Here is the steering lock assembly separated from the switch.
Figure 22

Here is the steering lock assembly separated from the switch. If the steering lock assembly does not function smoothly, I strongly suggest replacing this "now" before it fails.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Ef Comments: Hello, i own a 96 c280 and the key doesn't turn, we've tried everything possible so we can remove the tumbler but nothing works. Any suggestions?
November 23, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will have to drill the tumbler out and remove it in pieces. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
gg Comments: 1997 c280 key will not turn to position 1 ready to re place whole ignition how do i get it out
October 13, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If it won't turn, try a second key. If still not luck, try jiggling or lightly bumping the key into the lock cylinder while trying to t urn. If that doesn't do it, you will have to drill out the lock cylinder. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rich Comments: hi a 1991 190e is an auto steering lock interchangeable with a manual

any help please
October 1, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not 100% sure. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
troysa Comments: i have a problem with mb w202/1994 c180 . I dont know what wires to connect to the lock they all have different colors and the lock had numbers with letters please help
September 17, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don’t have that info.

We don't currently have that tech article. If we get a chance to perform the procedure, we will be sure to document it.

I would grab a repair manual. It will have the wiring.
Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
jfoye Comments: thanks ,the info is much appreciated. In figure 15 can the locking pin be depressed if the key is not first position? If not must I change the tumbler to depress that pin? 1988 ignition switch at this time will not turn with a screwdriver it appears to be locked. Thanks!
December 28, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The only way the locking pin can be moved is when the ignition switch is in the position for removal. Pos 1. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kip Comments: i need to remove and replace complete key assem. switch/lock as the tabes broke off on the key side of the elect. switch...1985 300sd m/b.how does the steering lock come apart ?so i can pull complete assem. ?
October 21, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You have to disassemble the column, then loosen the clamp for lock. Once loose, release the retaining pin and slide it out with the lock cylinder.

We don't currently have that tech article. If we get a chance to perform the procedure, we will be sure to document it.

I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Chris Comments: FIGURED OUT what to do THANKS THOUGH!:

To remove the switch that is pointed at by the red arrow in fig 18 put the key in the ignition and turn it to position 2 - that will align and clear a block that holds the switch in, then pull the switch off. If that doesn't lightly pull on the switch back while trying different key positions.
July 25, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Chris Comments: Thanks for the reply.

I can easily reach the switch but can't pull it off. I tried different key positions as the picture in fig 21 appears to show that might make a difference...
July 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There are three Phillips head screws that have to be removed. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Chris Comments: I need to remove the switch portion to fix the cabling - how do I do that WITHOUT removing the steering lock??

Thanks!
July 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't think you can, unless you can reach it from behind the instrument panel. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
kiddo Comments: need to remove and replace ignition swith in a 1997 s500
June 8, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We don't currently have that tech article. If we get a chance to perform the procedure, we will be sure to document it.
I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Jay Comments: Hi guys, replaced tumbler assembly in an '84 300D. Wroked great for about a month, now its stuck again and will not turn to position 1. Any thoughts? And would forcing a screwdriver to turn the switch get me to position 1 so i can replace tumbler again? not really wanting to replace the whole steering mechanism.
June 6, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: New key also? Check that the column steering lock isn't the issue.

if stuck, you will have to drill it out. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
LI Comments: I have a W126. I don't know how to fix it. I don't have the key and somebody used a driller or some screwdriver. They made a HOLE where the key suppose to be. Can you help me?
May 30, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will have to replace the igition lock cylinder. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Toby Comments: Hi, I have a 98 E430. Everything worked fine until this morning when I found my remote key did nothing. It doesn't lock or unlock the door or trunk or start the vehicle. At first I thought it was just the batteries in the key, but the more research I do the less sure I am. Would the batteries in the key make the car not start or do I have a bigger issue?
April 13, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Do you have second key? I would try it before digging too deep. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
safe Comments: No fault codes provided. He just said that the keys themselves were not the issue and I needed to replace thee ignition. XXXXXXXXX7 is my number and the number to the tow/ mechanic guy is XXXXXXXXXX.
February 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Without any additional information I can't be more helpful. I would need the fault codes. The ignition may have failed, it is not uncommon. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
safe Comments: I have a 2003 s500. The steering wheel won't come down when I insert the key into the ignition so I can't start the car. Prior to this happening the dashboard was blinking, and the steering wheel would randomly move up and down. The guy at the shop says I need to replace thee entire ignition for $1900 but I think he's trying to pull a fast one on me. What do you think ?
February 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Can you give me some information from the work order? Did he provide fault codes? Etc? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jones Comments: Hi, and thanks for the walkthrough. Had a bunch of problems with the ignition lately. I bought a bunch of new components for the ignition: tumbler, ignition switch, and steering lock. Had them installed by my shop, and in just two days I got another problem. When I put key into pos. 2, none of the dash lights come on, and the starter cranks. But, the car won't start. I'm figuring it's the ignition switch because no power is getting to the other components, but am not totally sure. Any direction would be appreciated.
February 14, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That sure sounds like a faulty electronic portion of the ignition switch. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ben Comments: Hi, in figure 15, is the locking pin supposed to be pushed that far that I can rotate the steering lock inside the steering shaft and then pull it out completely? Because it doesn't seem to work for me. Also my main problem is that my key won't turn at all.
January 5, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If your key won't turn at all, I do not believe you will be able to remove it with this method. You may have to replace the entire lock assembly on the steering column. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
shugga Comments: hi i have a 1988 mercedes 300 e and im tryint to install an ignition switch i need to know what all do i do to remove the pannel under the steering wheel so i can get to it without tearing something up?
October 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This tech article applies to:
Mercedes-Benz W124 (1986-95)
Mercedes-Benz W126 (1981-91)
Mercedes-Benz W201 (1984-93)

If your vehicle is not covered, we may not have an article at this time for you. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
1982 300SD Comments: Thanks for the help! The shaft between the steering lock and ignition switch had sheared and was not turning the ignition switch. I was able to drill through the wiring connector cover above the flat tip screws, unscrew them and release the switch from the lock assembly. Then I could align the "T" slot and remove the connector. Thanks for posting the wiring pin out...I'll need it for reassembly!
August 28, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the follow up and sharing your experience
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
1982 300SD Comments: 1982 W126 300SD. Ignition switch failure no start, no spring back drove teardown. Key and tumblers turn removed successfully. Steering lock and ignition switch assembly have been removed from steering column. I can't get wiring harness removed from the switch!!!! I have slowly turned the steering lock assembly where the tumblers engage with a screwdriver trying to align the "T" slot to no avail. Drill the harness connector to access the ignition switch screws or am I missing something simple?

Thanks!


1982 300SD
August 28, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It could be melted on. That is my guess. Might need to be replace with a new connector. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
AnaKg Comments: Just saw the comment from november ooops. Thats what i was asking for :
August 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Here's what I have available to me.

Terminal 30 on the switch, two red wire (might be two pins).
Terminal 50 violet/white.
Terminal P30 - Green/White
Terminal 15x - Red/yellow
Terminal 15R - Red/Green
Terminal 15 - - Red/Black- Nick at Pelican Parts - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
AnaKg Comments: I bought a new tumbler and steering lock so now i have a problem putting it back. I dont know what wires to connect to the lock they all have different colors and the lock had numbers with letters please help
August 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Here's what I have available to me.

Terminal 30 on the switch, two red wire (might be two pins).
Terminal 50 violet/white.
Terminal P30 - Green/White
Terminal 15x - Red/yellow
Terminal 15R - Red/Green
Terminal 15 - - Red/Black- Nick at Pelican Parts - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mike Comments: I have a 1993 190e 2.3 that has a screwdriver instead of a key. The widows, sunroof, and wiper don't function. Could this be related to the ignition switch? Also please help me find the full ignition assembly on your parts as I cannot find where you list it.
July 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be. I would start by restoring the ignition switch. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Elwin Comments: Thanks a lot, I have a 1954 merc 230E body with 200 motor South african. I've been struggling with the ignition wiring configuration for ages and finally yours work. My heater, sunroof, indicators and lots of other things didn't work. Thanks.
July 8, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have the wiring for your vehicle. I would contact a local dealer and see if they can get you classic wiring. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bax Comments: Need to add that my car is a 1988 300e. I was also wondering if a keyless entry feature could be added without fixing the broken door lock.
June 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you could add an aftermarket system to the factory, I think so. However, with malfunctioning door locks, you don;t want o get locked out if the keyless entry system fails. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bax Comments: Do you have a feed for replacing the door locks? My key will not turn in my driver door but works on all the others. The vacuum lock system is still working on all the the doors, and trunk including the driver door. It just seems to be the lock cylinder that is the problem.
June 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We don't currently have that tech article. If we get the chance to perform the repair we will be sure to document the process. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
fmarton Comments: Very helpful, thanks a lot!
I replaced my ignition electrical switch as it started to act up, sometimes lights not on, other times ok. It even stopped the engine once during driving, so I replaced it and now perfect. On mine, the 3 bolts holding the electrical switch were not phillips but flat headed screws. As they are not visible from outside, I used my smartphones front camera to see whats inside, and finally could get those nasty bolts out. Replaced them with phillips screws for easier installation.
Cheers,
fmarton
May 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
doc hank Comments: Picture 9: Use a 10mm Hex and breaker bar to remove the screw holding the wheel to the shaft red arrow.Have someone hold the wheel while you break the screw loose, never use the steering lock to hold the wheel in place. In this photo you can see the airbag plug green arrow and horn connections yellow arrows.

I am using a 18in breaker bar and cannot get the screw with the 10mm hex out.... Is it possible that clockwise would unscrew this?
March 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, the fasteners should loosen counterclockwise. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Nazri - Malaysia Comments: Hi, I had done all steps given and was replace the ignition switch but the problem still exist. dash light not lite on when turn key to on position. Further turn and the engine can start. But when disconnect the battery ground cable, engine stop. any one pls help...
January 26, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would check the function of the new tumbler and switch. Grab a wiring diagram and confirm that the correct voltage is being sent at the correct time. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bob Comments: Is their any trick to reinstall the lock assembly into the steering column?
December 6, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You want to install the same way you removed it, reverse the steps. The key will have be in the same position also. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
OOMI Comments: Hi i have a 1993 190e mercedes and when i was removing the igntion switch, the plug got dismanteled and now i have the wires hanging and dont know where each wire goes.

On the barrel there are pin codes which are:
p30
15
30
15x
30
50
15t
15r

please give me answer as soon as possible.
November 28, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Here's what I have available to me.

Terminal 30 on the switch, two red wire (might be two pins).
Terminal 50 violet/white.
Terminal P30 - Green/White
Terminal 15x - Red/yellow
Terminal 15R - Red/Green
Terminal 15 - - Red/Black- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
sagie Comments: need to know wiring colour combination for the ignition switch harness cause it has come loose when dis assembling
May 8, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, at this time we don't have that information.
whunter@pelicanparts.com
 

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