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Replacing Your Fuel Filter on your Mercedes Benz
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Replacing Your Fuel Filter on your Mercedes Benz

Steve Vernon

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$25

Talent:

**

Tools:

10mm socket, 8mm, 17mm, 20mm wrenches, Phillips-head screwdriver

Applicable Models:

 
Mercedes-Benz W124 (1986-95)
Mercedes-Benz W126 (1981-91)
Mercedes-Benz W201 (1984-93)

Parts Required:

Fuel Filter, Rubber Hangers

Hot Tip:

Plan on replacing the hangers while you are in there

Performance Gain:

Proper fuel pressure

Complementary Modification:

Replace your hangers and check your lines

Your fuel filter is an integral part of the fuel delivery system. A clogged filter can cause all kinds of problems, from a rough running engine to leaving you stranded on the side of the road. Mercedes suggests changing your filter every 30,000 miles.

The W201 fuel filter is located on the underside of the car, behind the rear driver side seat. You will need to safely lift and support your car. Please see our article on jacking up your Mercedes-Benz.

Once the car is safely supported, you will need to remove the plastic protective piece covering the fuel filter, accumulator and pumps. This is held in place by three 10mm plastic nuts. Remove these and place the plastic plate aside.

The fuel assembly is suspended from the chassis by four rubber hangers or "donuts," as they are loosely called. It is a very good idea to replace these while you are doing the filter, as they tend to dry out and crack with age. Just slip the old hangers off and replace them with new ones.

It is a good idea to loosen the fittings on the filter before you try and remove it from its support. There is a banjo bracket on one side and a fitting on the other; both are 17mm. Use two wrenches to remove the lines, one to hold the filter and the other to turn the fitting.

With the lines to the filter removed undo the metal bracket that holds the pumps, filter and accumulator to the hangers. There are three Phillips-head screws that hold the bracket on, remove these and lower it down enough to remove the fuel filter. Remove the plastic cover on the old filter and install it on the new one. Install the new filter according to the flow directions (the filter will only fit on one direction, as the fittings are different). Make sure to install the two brass washers between the banjo bolt, and snug everything up.

With everything in place, turn on the ignition and check for leaks. Turn off the ignition, reinstall the cover plate and you are good to go

With the car safely lifted and supported remove the three 10mm plastic nuts (yellow arrows) holding the plastic protective cover on.
Figure 1

With the car safely lifted and supported remove the three 10mm plastic nuts (yellow arrows) holding the plastic protective cover on. Note: we have the exhaust off of the car for another project we are working on, but it does NOT need to be removed for this project.

With the cover removed you can see the fuel pump (red arrow) the fuel accumulator (green arrow) and the fuel filter, including the two fittings (yellow arrow).
Figure 2

With the cover removed you can see the fuel pump (red arrow) the fuel accumulator (green arrow) and the fuel filter, including the two fittings (yellow arrow). Use two 17mm wrenches to remove the compression fitting and a 20mm and 17mm to remove the banjo fitting. Hold the filter with one wrench while turning the fitting with the other.

There are three Phillips head screws (yellow arrows) that hold the fuel pumps, filter and accumulator to the rubber hangers.
Figure 3

There are three Phillips head screws (yellow arrows) that hold the fuel pumps, filter and accumulator to the rubber hangers. Remove these screws and lower the bracket enough to remove the old filter and install the new one.

When installing the new filter do not forget to install the two brass washers between the banjo bolt, filter and fitting.
Figure 4

When installing the new filter do not forget to install the two brass washers between the banjo bolt, filter and fitting.

It is a good idea to replace the rubber hangers (yellow arrows) that hold the fuel assembly when you are replacing the filter.
Figure 5

It is a good idea to replace the rubber hangers (yellow arrows) that hold the fuel assembly when you are replacing the filter. They get old, dry out and crack. They are not expensive and are a good insurance against a failure. One of ours on the project car was ripped through and two others where about to let go (insert lower left).

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Comments and Suggestions:
Jay Comments: I have a 1993 190e 2.6 with a couple of issues, first when I start it I have to hold the gas pedal and crank for it to start, sometimes it starts right away sometimes it cranks for a few seconds then starts. Other issue is acceleration seems to be too slow, takes it's time getting up to 75-80 on the freeway and really struggles to go up hills, at a 5% grade which isn't too steep it bogs down to 40mph and I have to put it into 3rd and cruise at 35mph to make it up the hill. I have replaced plugs wires dist cap and rotor which has not helped, considering replacing the fuel filter next. Any other ideas? Thanks so much in advance.
September 14, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Hoppy Comments: Hi again sorry I didn't state what year or type car I have. 1993 Mercedes 190 s I ask if I should replace both fuel filter and fuel pumps or one at a time. Also where is the fuel relay switch.
July 19, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If just maintenance, replace the filers, not the pumps.

I don't have the relay location for your model. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Hoppy Comments: Should I replace both filter and fuel pumps or one at a time. Where is the fuel relay switch
July 19, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If just maintenance, replace the filers, not the pumps.

I don't have the relay location for your model. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
jasper Comments: I changed the fuel filter on my 190e 2.3 and there does not appear to be any fuel to the engine and I don't hear the pump running.

I appreciate that it will take some time to fill the system again - does the fuel pump come on with the ignition every time ?
May 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, it should come on when the ignition is turned on to prime. It should prime quickly when new. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Neal Comments: Check for the sound of the fuel pumps when first turning the key to start...if no noise head for the fuse/relay center and check for a faulty relay.
May 7, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Noise from a fuel pump does not mean there is pressure and volume, no noise does not mean the fault is in the fuse or RELAY. Always test pressure, volume and quality, and always test for the power and ground feed to the pump. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Star T Comments: hi, I have a 1985 200 Mercedes i do not find its fuel filter I check it all over the vehicle i don't find it. Please tell me where it is
April 27, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We didn't have 200 models here in the US. I don't have info for them. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Joaquin Comments: Where is the fuel pressure test port? So I could bleed some of the pressure out.
December 7, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What vehicle are you working on? They are usually on the fuel rail. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Quinn Comments: I have a 1991 190E 2.6 automatic. Went to put in park and it stayed in drive,the shifter went in park and is stuck there the transmission is still in gear witch one i don't know because the car won't turn over. Help
October 13, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The shift cable may have detached from the trans. I would inspect it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ray Comments: Nick, thanks for your reply, what I am afraid of, it once the heads break off, how do I get the balance of the snap head out, would I need to drill it??? Any easy way to remove it after the head is broken off?
June 22, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Use a pick to break them apart, or a drill. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ray Comments: I noticed on my Mercedes 1985 190E I picked-up over the winter to restore its in pretty good shape, tuneup, window issues, door look issues, probably due to vacuum lines when I was doing a tune-up and went to replace the fuel filter, the place cover has 4 plastic snaps for cars see photo instead of the 10mm screws. I tried to remove, but they wont budge and I am afraid I will break the heads off if I continue to force them and not have a cover to put back on when I finish replacing filter. What should I do, is there an easy way to remove them?
June 19, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It is an old car, the items may be seized or stuck due to debris. You may have to break them to remove and replace with new once out. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dex Comments: Would I have to depressurize the fuel system before changing out the filter
June 9, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: it is a good idea to do so. Use the fuel pressure test port to bleed off system pressure. Cover the port with a rag when you relieve pressure. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ram Comments: Hi there...sorry for misinforming you. I should have said OVP rather than OVR over voltage regulator
June 5, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm still lost, can you spell out what OVP is. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ram Comments: Yes, when I hold the throttle accelerator / gas pedal open, the engine stays running. But when I attempt to either go on reverse or drive, then the idle goes down fast until the engine quits running. Like I said, I just replaced the OVR because I was experiencing a "not starting or hard starting." But, after replacing the OVR, the car started immediately with no issues. However, after a few shutdowns and restarts, the car seem to have gone back to it's problem. Now, I have to step on the accelerator or throttle / gas pedal and I would get a start and run.
June 5, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: What do you mean by OVR?

I would check base idle and operation of the idle control valve. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ram Comments: 1988 Mercedes Benz 190E 2.3L - Car starts and runs, but when I shift it to park or drive, the idle goes down until the engine stops. I already have replaced, spark plugs and OVR. What else should I consider checking or replacing? Thanks.
June 3, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The engine is stalling? If you hols the throttle open slightly, does it stay running? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
diybenzgirl Comments: I can not find the brass washers do they come with filer? or rubber hangers in the parts catalog : please help! I have a 92 190e 2.6
April 25, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not the best with part numbers.


Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
rb Comments: which way do the arrow point while in stalling fuel filter on my Mercedes c220
February 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Toward the engine. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Sandy Comments: Another useful and informative guide guys. Well done. The aftermarket fuel filter I bought didn't have copper washers with it so I wire brushed the old ones and reused them. Not a good idea as the banjo fitting leaked fuel so I had to buy another filter with washers. Fitted it with the new washers and all OK now.
May 15, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
das Comments: this is a common prb with the 190e it typically ends up being a cold start valve i have the same issue that i chase every winter after i think i have fixed it. It could be the cold start valve, ovp relay, icv, also been know to fix the issue by checking and changing the alternator and or v. regulator in the alternator.
March 6, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. We appreciate the help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Bill V Comments: I have a 190e 2.3. Does not want to start when cold or even cool. It will start immediately with shot of starting fluid. What should I be looking at?
February 12, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check the fuel delivery system. Pressure, volume and quality. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Salvo Comments: Hi, I have a mercedes 180e, it cuts out for no reason whilst i am driving, I am thinking of replacing plugs, leads and fuel filter, have you ever come across any other reason for this. Thanks Gary
February 2, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Could be an engine sensor. I can't help without knowing what is missing from the system when you are trying to start it. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Are there any fault codes? Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JohnM. Comments: I have a Mercedes 1988 and it doesn't want to turn on anymore because it doesn't pass the gas to the injectors. What part could be messed up? And can anyone identify it in any way? Thank you very much
October 24, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This could be a fuel pump or a problem with the injectors. I would start from scratch and be sure fuel in the only thing you are missing. When your engine doesn't start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and pressure fuel, volume and quality. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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