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Removing Your Mercedes Benz Water Pump
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Removing Your Mercedes Benz Water Pump

Steve Vernon

Time:

4 hours4 hrs

Tab:

$140

Talent:

***

Tools:

Mercedes-Benz tool #103-0040, 6mm, 8mm Hex, 10mm, 13mm, 19mm socket, vice grips, 13mm wrench

Applicable Models:

 
Mercedes-Benz 190E (1984-93)
Mercedes-Benz W124 (1986-95)
Mercedes-Benz W126 (1981-91)

Parts Required:

New water pump and gasket

Hot Tip:

Be careful working around your radiator

Performance Gain:

Properly cooled engine

Complementary Modification:

Replace your radiator hoses

There are several things that will need to come off the car to replace your water pump including the fan. A word of caution here before you begin. Depending on the engine and accessories on your car there can be very, very little room to work between the fan and the radiator. You will need an 8mm Hex to remove the viscous clutch on the fan, and we had to grind one down to make it fit.

The radiator is very expensive and delicate, and can be easily damaged while working around it. If you are going to be doing other work on the car and/or are worried about damaging your radiator, I recommend you remove it first. It is not a difficult job and can potentially save you a lot of money if you end up damaging it. That being said, you certainly can replace your water pump with the radiator in, but I recommend you put a piece of cardboard over it to protect it while working.

You are going to need to drain the cooling system. There is an access panel on the lower passenger side of the front bumper. This will allow you to get to the radiator drain plug. Remove the panel by pulling straight out on it. This will give you access to the drain plug. Turn it clockwise to drain the system. This plug can sometimes get corroded and break when turning. If you do break it you can replace it, but sometimes it is easier just to undo the lower radiator hose.

Begin by removing the two rubber hoses on the drivers' side of the car that go from the water pump to the radiator. Next remove the overflow hose from the top of the thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat overflow hose from its clip on the top of the engine, and remove the distributor cover plate. It is just held in by clips and pulls off.

Next remove the fan shroud. Unclip the circular part of the shroud from the base by removing the circular clip on the right side. Turn the shroud to the right, separating the circular part from the base and place it over the fan. Pry off the two clips connecting the base of the shroud to the radiator, and lift it from the engine compartment.

Insert Mercedes-Benz tool # 103-0040 behind the fan pulley, and seat it between the two groves on the housing. Gently spin the fan until the tool slips into the corresponding hole on the pulley. Remove the 8mm Hex bolt and fan from the engine compartment. Be very careful working around the radiator.

With the fan out of the way, locate and loosen the 19mm fixing bolt on the belt tensioner. Locate the 13mm adjusting nut between the water and power steering pumps and loosen.

With the nut loosened you can pull up on the belt and remove it from the pulleys.

Be sure you understand the belt routing or make a diagram before removal.

Next you will need to remove the pulleys for the power steering unit, water pump and the fan. All three pulleys are held on with 13mm bolts. The power steering and water pump pulleys will spin freely while you are trying to remove them, so you will want to wrap a shop rag or the old belt around them and use vice grips to hold the pulley in place while you unscrew the bolts. Be careful not to damage the pulleys, as when the engine is running they spin at a high rate of speed and need to be in balance. You will need to use the Mercedes-Benz tool to hold the fan pulley from turning while you unbolt it.

With the pulleys off remove the 6mm Hex bolt behind the fan pulley and next to the crank positioning sensor. Completely unscrew and remove the 19mm fix bolt from the tensioner and then the two 13mm bolts holding it to the support bracket and remove the support bracket.

Remove the 13mm bolt that holds the shock to its bracket by the front of the engine.

Now you can remove the tensioner pulley and tensioner rod from the engine. Depending on the condition and age of your engine, some tensioners will easily slide out and others may need a bit of a pry to get them loose.

You will need to remove the power steering pump from its bracket next. Do not disconnect the power steering lines or drain it, just move it off to the side.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Take care to make sure the belt is properly seated on all the pulleys, follows the right path and everything is torqued to spec.

Once the radiator is cool to the touch, you will need to drain the coolant.
Figure 1

Once the radiator is cool to the touch, you will need to drain the coolant. Remove the access panel on the lower passenger side bumper by pulling it straight out (red arrow). With the panel off you can turn the drain plug clockwise and the coolant will drain from the hole below (yellow arrow).

Remove the thermostat overflow hose from its clip on the top of the engine and pull off the distributor cover plate.
Figure 2

Remove the thermostat overflow hose from its clip on the top of the engine and pull off the distributor cover plate.

This is what you will see on the right side of the engine.
Figure 3

This is what you will see on the right side of the engine. You will need to remove the clip that holds the circular shroud to the shroud base (yellow arrow). Turn the shroud right and separate it from the base, then place it back over the fan. From this angle you can see the fixing bolt (green arrow, below the radiator hose), and the adjusting nut (red arrow).

Remove the clip holding the shroud base to the radiator (red arrow) on the passenger side.
Figure 4

Remove the clip holding the shroud base to the radiator (red arrow) on the passenger side.

Remove the clip holding the shroud on the driver side (yellow arrow), pull the shroud up and out of the engine compartment.
Figure 5

Remove the clip holding the shroud on the driver side (yellow arrow), pull the shroud up and out of the engine compartment.

Place the Mercedes-Benz tool # 103-0040 (yellow arrow) in between the grooves on the housing and slowly rotate the fan until the tool engages the hole in the back of the pulley.
Figure 6

Place the Mercedes-Benz tool # 103-0040 (yellow arrow) in between the grooves on the housing and slowly rotate the fan until the tool engages the hole in the back of the pulley. Insert lower right shows what it looks like with the pulley off.

With the tool in place preventing the fan pulley from spinning you can remove the 8mm Hex bolt from the fan and remove the fan from the engine.
Figure 7

With the tool in place preventing the fan pulley from spinning you can remove the 8mm Hex bolt from the fan and remove the fan from the engine. Note: we have removed the radiator in our project car to give you a better photo of what you will be working on.

Loosen the fixing nut on the belt tensioner (yellow arrow).
Figure 8

Loosen the fixing nut on the belt tensioner (yellow arrow).

Loosen the adjusting nut (green arrow).
Figure 9

Loosen the adjusting nut (green arrow).

Remove the two hoses from the water pump to the drivers side of the radiator (green arrows).
Figure 10

Remove the two hoses from the water pump to the drivers side of the radiator (green arrows).

Pull up on the belt and remove it from the pulleys.
Figure 11

Pull up on the belt and remove it from the pulleys. Note: we have removed the radiator in our project car to give you a better photo of what you will be working on.

Remove the 13mm bolts (yellow arrow), on the coolant pump pulley and remove the pulley.
Figure 12

Remove the 13mm bolts (yellow arrow), on the coolant pump pulley and remove the pulley.

Remove the 13mm bolts on the power steering pump and remove the pulley.
Figure 13

Remove the 13mm bolts on the power steering pump and remove the pulley.

Using the Mercedes-Benz tool #103-0040 (green arrow) and a 13mm socket, remove the bolts from the fan pulley and then remove the pulley.
Figure 14

Using the Mercedes-Benz tool #103-0040 (green arrow) and a 13mm socket, remove the bolts from the fan pulley and then remove the pulley.

Next, using a 6mm Hex, remove the bolt (yellow arrow) on the end of the tensioner bracket by the crank positioning sensor.
Figure 15

Next, using a 6mm Hex, remove the bolt (yellow arrow) on the end of the tensioner bracket by the crank positioning sensor.

Remove the 19mm fix bolt from the tensioner.
Figure 16

Remove the 19mm fix bolt from the tensioner.

Remove the two 13mm bolts from the tensioner bracket (red arrows).
Figure 17

Remove the two 13mm bolts from the tensioner bracket (red arrows).

Move to the tension shock and remove the top 13mm bolt from its bracket.
Figure 18

Move to the tension shock and remove the top 13mm bolt from its bracket. You do not need to remove the bracket or the lower bolt to remove the tensioner.

Remove the tensioner bracket from the engine.
Figure 19

Remove the tensioner bracket from the engine.

Depending on the condition and age of your car, the tensioner, shock and adjuster arm can be slipped down and out of the engine.
Figure 20

Depending on the condition and age of your car, the tensioner, shock and adjuster arm can be slipped down and out of the engine. On some cars you might need to give them a little pry, or the tensioner and adjusting rod may come out separately. You can see how the unit needs to be lowered as it comes out so the adjusting rod can clear the upper bracket (green arrow). Note: The radiator has been removed to provide a better picture of what you will be doing.

Next you need to remove the water heater return pipe from the pump.
Figure 21

Next you need to remove the water heater return pipe from the pump. Begin by removing the 10mm bolt from where it mounts behind the fan pump.

Disconnect the tube at the pump by removing the 10mm bolt.
Figure 22

Disconnect the tube at the pump by removing the 10mm bolt. Pull the tube back and out of the pump. There is a rubber gasket on the end of the pipe that you will need to replace.

Remove the overflow hose (yellow arrow) from the top of the thermostat and the three 10mm nuts holding the thermostat to the water pump and remove the thermostat from the pump.
Figure 23

Remove the overflow hose (yellow arrow) from the top of the thermostat and the three 10mm nuts holding the thermostat to the water pump and remove the thermostat from the pump. Loosen the clamps (red arrow) on the hose going from the pump to the head.

On the back side of the tensioner bracket, remove the two 13mm bolts holding the power steering pump to the bracket.
Figure 24

On the back side of the tensioner bracket, remove the two 13mm bolts holding the power steering pump to the bracket.

Move the power steering pump off to the side and out of the way.
Figure 25

Move the power steering pump off to the side and out of the way. There is no need to disconnect the lines or drain the reservoir. Make sure that you do not undo the four bolts on the face of the pump (red arrow).

One of the bolts holding the pump to the block is located between the intake runners by the dip stick (green arrow).
Figure 26

One of the bolts holding the pump to the block is located between the intake runners by the dip stick (green arrow). I found it was easier to remove the dip stick to get access to the bolt, as it is just bolted to the head and then pulls up and turns out. Remember to replace the dip stick tube back into the block before you remove the pump as some coolant will spill out of the pump when you remove it, and you do not want it getting into the engine oil crank case area through the dip stick hole.

Remove the four 13mm bolts holding the pump to the engine.
Figure 27

Remove the four 13mm bolts holding the pump to the engine.

Remove the pump from the engine.
Figure 28

Remove the pump from the engine. Depending on how old and corroded your pump is, it can slide right off or take a fair amount of wiggling to get it to break loose. Be prepared as some coolant will spill when you remove the pump.

This photo shows the four holes (yellow arrows), where the pump mounts to the engine, as well as the old gasket (red arrow).
Figure 29

This photo shows the four holes (yellow arrows), where the pump mounts to the engine, as well as the old gasket (red arrow). You will need to clean this area and remove any old gasket or silicone. You need to have a flat, clean surface to mount the new pump to.

Don't forget to install new gaskets on both the pump and the heater return pipe.
Figure 30

Don't forget to install new gaskets on both the pump and the heater return pipe. I like to use a little Curil T around the gasket to help with the seal. It is especially helpful on the pump as when you install it, the gasket tends to fall out and there is very little room to work. The Curil T helps hold it in place as well a helps with the seal. Installation is the reverse of removal. Take care to make sure the belt is properly seated on all the pulleys, follows the right path and everything is torqued to specs.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Don Comments: Thanks for such outstanding instructions, and for saving me probably a 1K. I have removed the fan from it's hub, and now need to remove the fan pulley. I removed the four 13mm bolts holding the fan pulley to it's hub, but cannot budge the pulley. I've not applied any serious muscle to it for fear of damaging it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. This is on a 91 300se.
November 7, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The center hub is probably stuck. Try wd40 and sanding the hub down (on the pump) with emery cloth. Then lever back and forth to remove. if damaged you will have to replace it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
old man Comments: my Merc Mechanic said that the reason my C180 Compressor os slugish on take of, is that that timing chain is stretched. also that the sprockets "all 4"the chain tensioner guides and the chain tensioner have to be replaced. Is this really necessary as the chain guides cost $1500 each. Can the chain only be replaced to get the car back to its original performance.
June 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, you will need guides as they were more than the chain does. You should replace them all as a set. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
old man Comments: is it possible for water to enter the engine bloc behind the water pump on a mere C180 2006 if so, how and what is the recommended repair. thanks
June 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Possible if the impeller wore through the timing cover. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
DanielWhitten Comments: Is there any difference in the water pump or procedure for a 190e and 190d?
June 1, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, it is different. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Tom Comments: Hello, What torque settings in NM as I have a Haynes manual and that said 10NM but it still leaked from around the gasket
May 21, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don’t have that info.

You may have a sealing surface issue.

I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
RichardInBurque Comments: A trick is to crack/loosen the water pump and power steering pulley bolts while the belt is on and tight.
April 3, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Tom Comments: Great write up. Now why MB decided that you have to do all this in order to replace a $10 thermostat hose is beyond me... But I am happy this exists, so I can just waste a few hours of my time instead of $500 at the MB dealership...
November 24, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mike Comments: Thanks Nick. It's an '89 300e. I'm thinking about possibly replacing both of them if they'll solve my problem-stalling at idle, irregular idle at startup. I've pretty much ruled out or replaced everything else. Mike
September 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: My info says the crank sensor is the one at the bell housing.

The front on is cylinder ID, they are calling is Hall Effect sensor.- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mike Comments: Oops, wrong model. Here's the correct link.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W124/42-ENGINE-Crankshaft_Positioning_Sensor_Replacement/42-ENGINE-Crankshaft_Positioning_Sensor_Replacement.htm
September 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: One in the bell housing may be the cylinder ID sensor. What year and model is the vehicle you are working on. I can check if I have info to confirm this. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: Here's the link about replacing the crankshaft position sensor that you asked for Nick.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W211/61-FUEL-Crankshaft_Position_Sensor_Replacement/61-FUEL-Crankshaft_Position_Sensor_Replacement.htm
September 23, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks- Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mike Comments: In figure nr. 15 above as you are removing one of the tensioner bracket bolts, you call the part with the wire running out of it in the same picture the crank positioning sensor but in another tech article on your site you describe the replacement of the crankshaft position sensor which is located on the rear of the engine up against the firewall right above the starter motor. Which is which. Oh, and I found the article very helpful while replacing my own water pump. One trick I can add regarding the removal of the fan clutch and pulley-I found that I could insert the short end of a 4mm hex key in the hole and corresponding slot to keep the pulley from rotating without using the MB special tool. Thanks, Mike
September 20, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Fig 15 does should be crankshaft sensor. Can you link me to the article you saw it mentioned differently?- Nick at Pelican Parts  
ken Comments: how do you tighten the the serpentine belt once you have everything in place?
August 7, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See this tech article:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W124/09-ENGINE-Drive_Belt_Replacement/09-ENGINE-Drive_Belt_Replacement.htm - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Bill Comments: What tool and position do I use to remove hex bolts from wp from 92 300e as I am having trouble with positioning hex socket to unscrew the bolts.
July 5, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Which fasteners are you struggling with? The procedure has quite a few that have to be removed. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
joffficer Comments: My 1992 300SL looks a bit different. The tensioner in photo 8 Fixing nut is a allen head on mine. Do I loosen it the same way? It looks like mine is opposite hex instead of allen on the other bracket bolts
June 5, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The repair info does not show it having reverse threads. Should come off as the other does. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Chris Comments: Hello, I've been having a hard time tracking down some Curil T, but I can get a comparable to Hylomar Universal Blue Permatex 85420 to be specific. Should this be sufficient for sealing the water pump to the head? Thanks in advance, you guys are the best.
May 17, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If permatex has the same properties, it will be fine. Using a similar sealant is often needed due to availability. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
quesnoy Comments: How to you remove the power steering pump pulley??? Is there a special pulley remover tool you can use? I have removed the bolts, but the pulley won't budge...
May 1, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You didn't mention what vehicle you have. If the pulley bolts on, most times it just pulls off. It may be stuck due to corrosion. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rene Comments: thank you soooo much for your advice. your advice, my hands on labor, job is complete.
April 30, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
quesnoy Comments: Hi,

Can someone please let me know if the center bolt on the fan clutch is a counter clockwise or a clockwise screw-off? Just checking because my friend notified me that some BMWs are clockwise...
April 24, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The clutch is standard right hand thread. counterclockwise will remove it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Krakka Comments: 1995 merc c180 when we flush radiator n refill do we need to bleed the system because I have radiator symbol on dash showing up now
January 29, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Air should be bled from the system when refilling it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bern Comments: I have a 90, 190e that I'm replacing the water pump on. Should the belt tensioner & idler be replaced as well? Also, is there an additional water pump? Thought I read about it somewhere. Thanks!
November 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Replace the pulleys if the bearings are loose. I believe there is an aux coolant pump for the heating system. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
kens27 Comments: I removed the WP earlier this year and now have a few bolts misplaced, can you identify the bolt that holds the oil dipstick tube to the block, and its length? Also will this bolt need any thread sealant?
November 7, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I cannot, but our parts specialists can. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Chris Comments: Great guide. Quick question for you: did you use Curil T on the heater return O-Ring? Thanks.
August 27, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It looks that way, However, don;t feel like you have to. I prefer installing O-rings dry. It helps to prevent slipping. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
greenbikemike Comments: Hey Nick,
I'm helping my son change out a head gasket on a 1987 mercedes 190e, we stripped the stud/rod/whatever that holds the timing chain guide in the front of the head and are trying to get the head off, but having problems, I think we have to get it to tdc and break the chain. Question is, which way does the motor rotate, cant find that information anywhere.
Any help would be great.
Thanks
greenbikemike


August 15, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Clockwise. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
oprimusprime Comments: Hi lads ,can i ask if you know the water pump pully torque settings .All in my Haynes Beano exept this one.MERCEDES W124 026 M103 940 Your instructions are just what i needed to do my water pump . I hould have said pump pully bolts x4. Thank you .
June 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not 100% sure what the torque spec is. I would grab a repair manual, it will have the torque specs. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Peter Comments: Is there a tutorial for removing the water pump in a 1992 300 sl.I need help and step by step instructions we be very helpful.
June 19, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't think we currently have a tech article for your vehicle. Out W129 articles are located here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MBZ_Tech_Index-W129-R129.htm
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Alex Rhys Comments: Thankyou very much for this, a horrible job reduced to a simple step by step!

Genius :
June 13, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ernster Comments: Thanks for the fool proof how to and parts which is the difference between the old girl being on the road and being on a ship to China as scrap metal. Also I have found that given the help you offer I actually like doing my own work and saving a thousand dollars is nice too.
Two tips I picked up while making progress are: so-called special tool to remove fan pulley is quickly made by bending the end of a length of 3/16th inch rod at a little less than a right angle, 5/8th inche long. To keep the water pump pulley from turning, I wrapped my old serpentine belt around it and c-clamped the belt loop tightly together, making in effect a strap wrench. Both of these kinks worked liked Hogan's goat for me!
May 25, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ed Comments: I removed all 4 bolts securing the water pump to the m103 block on my 89 300E yet I am unable to remove it. This may be because the pump is "fused" in place as it is the original from 1989. How do I go about with the pump's removal?
April 7, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you are sure all the bolts have been removed, try tapping the pulley with a soft-faced hammer. Not too hard, just enough to break the bond. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Mat Comments: I backed off the 4 bolts or at least some of them on the power steering pump as talked about in fig 25. Then realized that was not necessary in moving the pump put of the way to get to the BT. And I tightened them back however lost all my fluid after replacing the belt tensioner and putting all the parts back on . I now have a leaky power steering pump. Do these bolts have a specific torque on them or maybe a gasket moved?
March 5, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The power steering reservoir likely has a gasket I would isolate the source of the leak, then repair what is needed. Disturbing a gasket could be the issue. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jj Comments: Do I have to buy the Tool 103-0040 or are there alternatives?
February 19, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would assume yes, as it is listed as part of the procedure. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Dee Comments: I have a 99 honda accord 4cyl. and the transmission started slipping lately. I've been reading different forums on what the problem could be I've heard it could the shifting solenoid or the clutch plates or the transmission is just going out. If I drove on the freeway and get off it down shifts hard around 1st gear. When I take off it slips. If I drive it easy it's cool for the most part it has it's slipping moments but nothing big. I changed all the motor an transmission mounts so do you have any suggestion? Please help before I buy this transmission, thanx
January 30, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like worm friction components. Might be time for a rebuilt unit. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
file Comments: awesome tutorial! I have a question. How do you keep the water pump pulley from spinning when trying to remove it?
January 2, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See figure 7 (step 7. This step mentions counterholding the pulley. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Barry Comments: I have a 1993 190E 4 cylinder Mercedes.It has started dripping coolant from what appears to be a drain pipe mounted near the rear right hand side of the water pump ,just behind the alternator. I don't understand what the drain is there for or why it is dripping coolant.
It would be greatly appreciated if can you help.
December 16, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This could be the weep hole for the water pump leaking. Pressure test the cooling system and check if the water pump is leaking. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jav Comments: Thanks Nick. That helps.
November 12, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No problem, my pleasure. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jav Comments: What hex size is used on figure 21 and 27? I'm in the process of replacing my wp, tensioner and shock, and belt. Haven't ordered the parts yet.
November 10, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: 21 is a 10mm, 27 is a 13mm. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
raj Comments: thank you
July 1, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You are most welcome.
-whunter-
 

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