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High Pressure Fuel Pump Replacement
 

Pelican Technical Article:

High Pressure Fuel Pump Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

3 hours3 hrs

Tab:

$1300

Talent:

*****

Tools:

Phillips & flathead screwdriver, 10mm socket, fuel line tool

Applicable Models:

R56 MINI Cooper S Hatchback (2007-11)

Parts Required:

High Pressure fuel pump, fuel pump seal, fuel feed & pressure line

Hot Tip:

Relieve fuel pressure before beginning

Performance Gain:

Repair faulty fuel pump

Complementary Modification:

Replace engine oil

The fuel supply system in a MINI R56 consists of:

  • Fuel tank.
  • Fuel filler with associated breathing and venting pipes.
  • High pressure fuel pump assembly with fuel filter and fuel level senders.

The fuel tank is two-lobed. There are two fuel level senders, one in each lobe on the left and right sides underneath the rear seat cushion. The right fuel tank lobe holds the fuel level sender and fuel filter, while the left tank lobe holds the fuel pump.

In tank fuel pumps have many benefits, the fuel is submerged in fuel keeping it cool, preventing vapor lock and electrical issues. The fuel pump delivers a constant flow of gasoline to the fuel rail at a regulated pressure and volume. The fuel pump draws fuel from the fuel tank and pushes it through the fuel filter, mounted inside of the fuel tank. 

On turbo-charged models, a high pressure fuel pump is used to deliver at a maximum pressure of 120 bar to the high pressure fuel injectors. The low pressure system (in-tank fuel pump) is used to feed the mechanically driven high pressure pump which is mounted on the engine. The high pressure (HPFP) fuel pump is driven by a key driven connection to the intake camshaft.

The HPFP pump contains 2 pistons to generate the desired pressure in the fuel system. There is a volume control valve on the high-pressure pump, it is not serviceable separately. The DME determines the duty cycle on the volume control valve depending on engine mixture needs.

The fuel pump is mounted to the left side of the cylinder head (red arrow) and is driven by the intake camshaft.
Figure 1

The fuel pump is mounted to the left side of the cylinder head (red arrow) and is driven by the intake camshaft.

Working at the crankcase breather heating element, release the tab (red arrow) and disconnect the electrical connector.
Figure 2

Working at the crankcase breather heating element, release the tab (red arrow) and disconnect the electrical connector.

Then lift up to detach the hose lock (red arrows) at the valve cover.
Figure 3

Then lift up to detach the hose lock (red arrows) at the valve cover.

Remove the hose from the valve cover (red arrow).
Figure 4

Remove the hose from the valve cover (red arrow).

Working at the vacuum pump, press the brake booster line release tab (red arrow) and pull the vacuum line straight off the pump.
Figure 5

Working at the vacuum pump, press the brake booster line release tab (red arrow) and pull the vacuum line straight off the pump.

Loosen the intake air duct hose clamps (red arrows).
Figure 6

Loosen the intake air duct hose clamps (red arrows).

Remove the intake air duct from the turbocharger, then the intake air housing.
Figure 7

Remove the intake air duct from the turbocharger, then the intake air housing.

The negative battery cable should be removed, this will prevent the fuel pump from priming during the repair (red arrow).
Figure 8

The negative battery cable should be removed, this will prevent the fuel pump from priming during the repair (red arrow).

The fuel line from the high pressure fuel pump to the fuel rail is shown here (red arrows).
Figure 9

The fuel line from the high pressure fuel pump to the fuel rail is shown here (red arrows). When this fuel line is loosened it has to be replaced. There are two nuts at each end, loosen these while covering the nut with a rag to bleed off remaining fuel rail pressure.

This photo shows the upper nut on the line being bled-off (red arrow) with a rag in place to catch any escaping fuel (inset).
Figure 10

This photo shows the upper nut on the line being bled-off (red arrow) with a rag in place to catch any escaping fuel (inset). Loosen the nut all the way. Use a 12mm line wrench.

Next, loosen the fuel line nut at the fuel rail (red arrow).
Figure 11

Next, loosen the fuel line nut at the fuel rail (red arrow). Use a 12mm line wrench.

Remove the fuel line (red arrow) and throw it away.
Figure 12

Remove the fuel line (red arrow) and throw it away. It has to be replaced.

Remove the fuel pump electrical connector (red arrow).
Figure 13

Remove the fuel pump electrical connector (red arrow). Squeeze the two tabs at the sides and slide it straight off (inset).

Now you have to remove the feed line (green arrow).
Figure 14

Now you have to remove the feed line (green arrow). Each time this line is removed it has to be replaced. If not, it will not seal and likely pop off the pump. First detach the connection at the pump, then the connection at the subframe (yellow arrow).

Removing the feed line requires MINI tool 13 0 250, however you can also use a pair of needle nose hose pliers (red arrow).
Figure 15

Removing the feed line requires MINI tool 13 0 250, however you can also use a pair of needle nose hose pliers (red arrow). Press in the black plastic tabs and slide the line off toward the firewall (green arrow). Have a rag below the line to catch any escaping fuel.

Follow the line down to the subframe, then press the release tab (red arrow) and pull the line straight off.
Figure 16

Follow the line down to the subframe, then press the release tab (red arrow) and pull the line straight off. Discard the line as it has to be replaced.

Next, remove the three T30 Torx fasteners for the pump (red arrows).
Figure 17

Next, remove the three T30 Torx fasteners for the pump (red arrows).

Slide the fuel pump out of the cylinder head to remove (red arrow).
Figure 18

Slide the fuel pump out of the cylinder head to remove (red arrow).

When installing the new pump, be sure to replace the sealing O-ring (yellow arrow).
Figure 19

When installing the new pump, be sure to replace the sealing O-ring (yellow arrow). Then, align the slot in the camshaft (red arrow) with the key in the pump (green arrow). Reverse steps to reassemble. Clear fault codes in the DME.



Comments and Suggestions:
Cebolla Comments: Could you provide the information for the tigthening torque for the fuel line?
November 2, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don’t have torque information.

I would suggest you grab a repair manual, you should own one. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Bill Comments: I understand that the fuel pump inside the gas tank should provide about 73 psi. It pumps through a line that goes into the HPFP. From there, fuel is pumped into the fuel rail, where it is available for the injectors. The car has great power and high RPM performance; idles smoothly; accelerates well. BUT after sitting more than an hour it acts like there is no fuel pressure; hard to start; dies; stumbles; etc. for maybe 30 seconds - but then comes to life and is good to go.
I am trying to diagnose whether the issue is the fuel pump in the gas tank, or the HPFP. A have not been able to get a fuel rail pressure reading yet. Any advice? Thanks.
October 25, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Do not measure at rail. You need a scan tool like Autologic AssistPlus to test the fuel delivery system on these MINI Cooper engines. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Bill Comments: My 2010 Mini Cooper Clubman S, turbo, has low fuel pressure upon start-up. Engine dies and stumbles for a moment. Then, it picks up and runs well. I was occasionally having a loss of power at higher speeds, but changed the fuel filter and that problem has gone away. It acts like a bad fuel pressure regulator. I haven't measured the pressure at the fuel rail, but feel that it goes to zero after the car sits for a while. If you start up soon, it runs fine. IS THE REGULATOR BUILT INTO THE HPFP? Can it be fixed separately from the high pressure pump? Thank you so much.
October 22, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: if high pressure fuel is the issue, the pump has to be replaced as a unit. A solenoid is used to control pressure. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
ken68 Comments: you said fuel filter, mounted outside of the fuel tank, I though there was only an in tank gauze ? can you show me or tell me where it is ? thanks
July 15, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That is a typo, thanks for catching it. Should read inside. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
MSK Comments: I experienced a faulty defective broken nut in the high pressure fuel line on my 2012 countryman... EXTREME FIRE HAZARD RISK..
March 17, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the note. Not good and fire hazard for sure. This is why it is important not to re-use the lines, MINI says they are single use. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
jactommac Comments: what is it exactly that fails with this pump? is it a possibility to rebuild the pump?
January 25, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The internals wear out, assuming the impeller. Ca't be rebuilt. No parts available. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
hollywood Comments: Figure 16 is wrong it's the other line not the one he's pointing at in replace high pressure fuel pump
December 17, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for catching the error. We appreciate it. I will have the article updated. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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Page last updated: Sun 12/10/2017 02:54:22 AM