Pelican Parts
MINI Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog MINI How To Articles Volvo Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
View Recent Cars  |Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help
 >  >
Turbocharged Engine Pressure Sensor Replacement
 
Bookmark and Share

Pelican Technical Article:

Turbocharged Engine Pressure Sensor Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$200

Talent:

**

Tools:

8mm socket, T25 Torx

Applicable Models:

R56 MINI Cooper S Hatchback (2007-11)

Parts Required:

Intake pressure / temperature sensor, Manifold pressure sensor

Hot Tip:

Work with a cool engine. Clear engine fault codes when done

Performance Gain:

Car will run well

Complementary Modification:

Replace engine air filter, inspect intake air ducts for cracks

Starting with the 2007 R56 MINI Cooper S models, MINI introduced the turbocharged engine. This 1.6-liter 4-cylinder engine produces more power (an extra 40 hp) and torque (an extra 80 lb-ft) than the equivalent 1.6-liter normally aspirated engine. The key to the additional torque and power is the turbocharger closely mounted to the exhaust manifolds. As the exhaust is forced out of the cylinders, it powers a turbine that turns a compressor, essentially a high efficiency fan, blowing air forcibly into the intake system. The additional, denser, air increases combustion efficiency and power as needed. This is an efficient way to achieve higher power output from an engine without increasing engine displacement.

The DME controls turbocharger output or boost pressure with the wastegate. Feedback is delivered via the engine pressure sensors.

The intake manifold pressure sensor is located on the intake manifold. It measures the pressure in the intake manifold. The DME uses the signal from the intake manifold pressure sensor to calculate the mass of intake air. The pressure sensor also serves as a substitute variable for the engine load signal. This sensor is supplied 5 volts from the DME and signal voltage fluctuates depending on manifold pressure. Approximately 0.5 to 4.5 volts corresponds to a manifold pressure from 20 kPa (0.2 bar) to 250 kPa (2.5 bar).

The combined intake temperature and boost pressure sensor is located in the charge air duct downstream of the intercooler mounted before the throttle housing.

The boost sensor supplies the DME with information on the temperature and pressure of the charge air before the throttle housing. The ECM uses the signal from the intake manifold pressure sensor to adjust the position of the throttle valve and to control boost pressure. This boost sensor is supplied 5 volts from the DME. Signal voltage fluctuates depending on manifold pressure. Approximately 0.5 to 4.5 V corresponds to a boost pressure from 20 kPa (0.2 bar) to 250 kPa (2.5 bar).

The intake temperature sensor contains a temperature-dependent resistor that is mounted into the charge air duct and measures the temperature of the intake air. The resistor has a negative temperature coefficient (NTC). This means that the resistance decreases as temperature increases. The DME compares a stored MAP with sensor data to determine fuel delivery. The resistance changes dependent on temperature from 167 k Ohms to 150 Ohms, corresponding to a temperature from -40°C to 130°C.

A quick test of both the manifold and boost pressure sensors is to check the sensor reading with the key on engine off. Using a MINI scan tool, the reading should be about equal, as they are both reading ambient pressure. The intake temp sensor can be tested in a similar way using the coolant sensor as a comparison. With a cold engine, they should both read just about the same.

Keep in mind that when your car was serviced before, parts may have been replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have, so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you're working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Do not work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Vehicle models change and evolve, as they grow older, so the vehicle shown in our illustrations may vary slightly from yours. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

Turn the engine OFF and remove the remote key from the ignition or the remote key slot.

In this tech article I will show you how to replace the intake manifold and boost pressure / temp sensor on a N14 MINI engine.

Start by detaching the breather hose at the valve cover.
Figure 1

Start by detaching the breather hose at the valve cover. Squeeze the collar (red arrow) and pull it off.

Working at the right corner of the intake air housing, remove the T20 Torx fastener (red arrow).
Figure 2

Working at the right corner of the intake air housing, remove the T20 Torx fastener (red arrow).

Move to the left side of the radiator support and remove the fresh air duct (red arrow).
Figure 3

Move to the left side of the radiator support and remove the fresh air duct (red arrow). It should be detached from the radiator support already. Unclip it from the intake air housing and remove it.

Move to the left side of the intake air housing and unclip the vacuum line (red arrow).
Figure 4

Move to the left side of the intake air housing and unclip the vacuum line (red arrow). Then lift the intake air housing up and remove it from the engine.

Working at the mass airflow sensor, disconnect the electrical connector (red arrow).
Figure 5

Working at the mass airflow sensor, disconnect the electrical connector (red arrow).

Lift the intake air housing up, pulling it out of the rubber mounting grommets, and remove it from the engine.
Figure 6

Lift the intake air housing up, pulling it out of the rubber mounting grommets, and remove it from the engine.

Manifold sensor: Disconnect the manifold sensor electrical connector by pulling the connector straight out of the sensor (red arrow).
Figure 7

Manifold sensor: Disconnect the manifold sensor electrical connector by pulling the connector straight out of the sensor (red arrow). Pull the tab up if needed to release the connector.

Manifold sensor: Using a 8mm socket, remove the sensor fastener (red arrows).
Figure 8

Manifold sensor: Using a 8mm socket, remove the sensor fastener (red arrows).

Manifold sensor: Remove the sensor from the manifold (red arrow).
Figure 9

Manifold sensor: Remove the sensor from the manifold (red arrow). If stuck, use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lever it out of the manifold. Most times it will pull out easily. Install a new sensor into the manifold and tighten the fastener. If the O-ring gives you a hard time going in, apply a small amount of dish soap to the O-ring. It will slide right in. The soap will not damage the O-ring. Check the vehicle for fault codes. See our tech article on reading and clearing fault codes. Then test drive the vehicle and confirm that the engine runs well. Note the oil residue on the sensor diaphragm (green arrow); this is as common as carbon on the valves. When dealing with carbon issues, it is a good idea to inspect the sensor to prevent future fault codes.

Boost sensor: Disconnect the boost sensor electrical connector by pulling the connector straight out of the sensor (red arrow).
Figure 10

Boost sensor: Disconnect the boost sensor electrical connector by pulling the connector straight out of the sensor (red arrow). Pull the tab up if needed to release the connector.

Boost sensor: Using a 8mm socket, remove the sensor fastener (red arrow).
Figure 11

Boost sensor: Using a 8mm socket, remove the sensor fastener (red arrow).

Boost sensor: Remove the sensor from the duct (red arrow).
Figure 12

Boost sensor: Remove the sensor from the duct (red arrow). If stuck, use a small flathead screwdriver to gently lever it out of the manifold. Most times it will pull out easily. Install a new sensor into the duct and tighten the fastener. If the O-ring gives you a hard time going in, apply a small amount of dish soap to the O-ring. It will slide right in. The soap will not damage the O-ring. Check the vehicle for fault codes. See our tech article on reading and clearing fault codes. Then test drive the vehicle and confirm that the engine runs well. The green arrow points to the temperature sensor portion of the sensor. If you are reinstalling an old sensor, be sure it is not damaged.

Bookmark and Share
Comments and Suggestions:
J Comments: I'm getting a P115C code. Ive put in new MAF sensor, new valve cover and new boot from MAF sensor to turbo intake. and still getting code. But no other codes. Could this engine pressure sencor have anything to do with it? . Its a 08 n56 turbo engine
October 13, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: if the intake system is free of obstructions and no leaks, the timing on engine may be off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Nyoke Hue Comments: I have a 2008 Cooper S with an oil light amd limp mode light on. Did oil change with BMW oil and replaced O2 sensor due to code findings. No engine light codes are present. What to do?
September 13, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check oil pressure to start. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Ken Comments: R56 2009 base model N12. I have a fault code 2BE4 DME internal fault. No throttle reponse to gas pedal everyday 1st start. There is a website mentioned pressure sensor before throttle... However, is my N12 non turbo engine has no this sensor?

Very frustrating to troubleshoot this fault code 2BE4
September 8, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Internal DME fault is a bad DME. if power and grounds to it are Ok and no outputs are shorting it, replace the DME. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
JR Comments: I have a 2008 Mini R56. The limp mode light will come on so there is no turbo boost, but there are no codes or other warning lights on. What could be causing this? This is my first Turbo vehicle.
Thanks
P.S. Your tech articles are great. I have used the BMW section for many things
August 28, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the light is on, fault codes have to be stored. Check for pending as well. I would assume there is a boost deviation happening. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Daryl Comments: hi, i was also getting the PO237 code. I replaced the boost pressure sensor and it did not go away. I tested the harness with a test light and the car off. The only wire that goes to ground is the white one and I think it is supposed to do that. Any suggestions?
January 18, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don;t know what a test light will do. The actual circuit voltage is needed for testing, using a DVOM. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
pauln Comments: Had a P129E - "Manifold Absolute Pressure Minimum Pressure Implausible" code that I couldn't clear on my 2010 Cooper S.

I took a chance that it might be one of the two MAP sensors "manifold" - on top of the intake manifold, "boost" - on the boost duct on the right side [as you are sitting in the car].

I ordered the Bosch MAP sensors about half the price of the OEMs - they look identical to OEM including numbers on the sensors and even the font used.

Installed both sensors, reset the code with my scanner. Problem solved!

One note - to get to the manifold MAP sensor, you do not need to completely remove the air box. I could not get the intake air snorkel loose that runs from the left front of the car into the airbox - you would need gorilla hands to squeeze the tube enough to get those 4 nubs to release well, maybe hands less than 60 years old. Instead, I followed your guide, but just left the intake snorkel in place. You can easily lift the airbox up so that the 4 plastic posts clear their holes and then move the airbox toward the front of the car to give you plenty of room to see and get at the manifold MAP sensor.

Thanks for the info and the guide - it helped a lot!
January 12, 2017
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Salah Comments: Hi, I got P0108 code for the MAP sensor. I replaced the sensor and cleared the code. When I start the car, turn off, and restart, the code comes back again. any ideas? thank you
December 24, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check the wiring for the sensor to the DME. Also be sure you replaced the right sensor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

QUICK LINKS
About Us
Careers
Pelican Parts, LLC
1600 240th Street
Harbor City, CA 90710
Order Online or Call:
888-280-7799
CONNECT WITH US
NEWSLETTER
Sign Up for Pelican Pit Stop News & Special Offers
Page last updated: Thu 11/23/2017 02:54:22 AM