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Radio Antenna Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Radio Antenna Replacement

Nick Czerula

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$300

Talent:

****

Tools:

DVOM, T25 Torx

Applicable Models:

R56 MINI Cooper Hatchback (2007-11)
R56 MINI Cooper S Hatchback (2007-11)

Parts Required:

Antenna booster or module

Hot Tip:

Disconnect battery before working with electronics

Performance Gain:

Repair faulty antenna

Complementary Modification:

Install aftermarket radio

Most electrical components on MINI R56 models require programming using an advanced MINI scan tool when replacing. With that said, don't feel you can't replace these items yourself. You also have the option of swapping out used items, which will at times work with programming. I don't have experience with this method, due to my access to a MINI scan tool, but it is something to consider. I have been told programming of used items isn't always required, so this may be an option, but I cannot vouch for it working 100% of the time. If you have experience with used part installation, please share your experience as it will help the Pelican Parts community.

MINI R56 models can come equipped with several different antenna systems depending on vehicle options. The different systems include:

FM/AM radio (roof antenna/rear window antenna)

Digital radio (roof antenna/rear window antenna), navigation system (roof antenna), telephone (roof antenna)

Bluetooth antenna in steering column trim panel for mobile telephone connection

Two versions of the roof antenna (FM1) are available depending on optional equipment. In the basic version, the AM and FM antennas are integrated in the roof antenna. On option heavy models, the roof antenna can house the mobile phone antenna, AM/FM antenna, GPS antenna and the SDARS antenna.

The high-frequency radio station signals are received by the rear window antennas (FM2, FM3, FM4) and roof antenna (FM1 / AM). The antenna amplifier / diversity module is located on the rear hatch beneath the rear window. There are separate amplifiers for AM and FM signals. Both antenna amplifiers are supplied with direct current when the radio is ON.

The signal quality of the currently selected FM antenna (FM1 to FM4) is evaluated and assessed in the antenna amplifier / diversity module. FM antennas are selected depending on the signal quality of the received radio station in connection with the active antenna. When antennas are switched, no interruption is heard. This function allows the greatest FM signal to be used at any given time.

If you have static in FM or AM, the problem may be an amplifier, diversity module or one of the antennas.

Remember that your car may have been serviced before and had parts replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches.

Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle. If you're working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible. Never work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability.

Our vehicle may vary slightly from yours as models do change and evolve, as they grow older. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users. Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information.

In this tech article I will show you how to replace the antenna amplifiers and antenna diversity module. I will also show you how to locate an open circuit in the antenna window grid or module connections.

The FM1 antenna is mounted to the roof (red arrow).
Figure 1

The FM1 antenna is mounted to the roof (red arrow). The antenna's amplifiers (yellow arrows) are mounted to the sides of the rear hatch. The antenna diversity module is mounted to the right rear hatch (green arrow).

Remove the tailgate trim panel.
Figure 2

Remove the tailgate trim panel. Working at the tailgate trim panel, remove the two T30 Torx screws (green arrows).

Then pull the trim panel down to detach the trim clips.
Figure 3

Then pull the trim panel down to detach the trim clips. If any of the trim clips remain in the tailgate, remove them using a trim panel tool (inset).

To replace one of the antenna amplifiers, start by unplugging the electrical connectors.
Figure 4

To replace one of the antenna amplifiers, start by unplugging the electrical connectors. Squeeze the release levers (red arrows) and pull the connectors straight out to remove them. Then remove the T25 Torx screw (green arrow) along with the amplifier. The left side is shown. The right side amplifier is similar.

To replace the antenna diversity module, start by unplugging the electrical connectors.
Figure 5

To replace the antenna diversity module, start by unplugging the electrical connectors. For the coaxial connectors, press the release tabs (red arrows) and pull them straight out. The lower connectors (yellow arrows) pull straight out. Then remove the T25 Torx screws (green arrows) along with the module. Replace the module with a new one. Then code the module using a MINI scan tool.

To test the rear window antenna grid, start by disconnecting the black electrical connectors at each amplifier.
Figure 6

To test the rear window antenna grid, start by disconnecting the black electrical connectors at each amplifier. Then, connect the test leads of your DVOM to each electrical connector (red arrows). Set your DVOM to Ohms. The rear glass should have about 2 Ohms of resistance. Any more Ohm registered than 2 Ohms and you could have a faulty window grid.

To test for a break or high resistance in the window grid, connect one lead of your DVOM to one of the antenna amplifier connectors.
Figure 7

To test for a break or high resistance in the window grid, connect one lead of your DVOM to one of the antenna amplifier connectors. Then use the other test lead to touch different areas of the grid (red arrow) until the place of high resistance is found. When testing the grid, your resistance should be about the same as it was in the previous step.

To test one of the antenna amplifiers, connect the black connectors (yellow arrow) again.
Figure 8

To test one of the antenna amplifiers, connect the black connectors (yellow arrow) again. Then remove both blue connectors. Connect your DVOM (green arrow) to the terminal for the blue connector. Your resistance reading should be about 2 Ohms. On the left side amplifier, the blue connector (red arrow) is the ground. Be sure to check this wire for a good ground.

There are connections at the rear glass that go directly to the diversity module.
Figure 9

There are connections at the rear glass that go directly to the diversity module. The center wire (yellow arrow) has high resistance, somewhere around 200k Ohms. The two end wires (green arrows) should have about 2 Ohms.

The coaxial cables are for the rear window antennas (red arrow) and the roof antenna (green arrow).
Figure 10

The coaxial cables are for the rear window antennas (red arrow) and the roof antenna (green arrow).



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Comments and Suggestions:
Chirs Comments: is there a similar article for the 2005 model?
April 4, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: We don't currently have that tech article. If we get a chance to perform the procedure, we will be sure to document it.

I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 

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