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Supercharger Oil Change and Service
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Supercharger Oil Change and Service

Steve Vernon

Time:

1 hour1 hr

Tab:

$15 to $50

Talent:

****

Tools:

Serpentine belt tool, 16mm, 13mm wrench, 13mm, 10mm socket, flathead screwdriver, 3/16 Hex socket

Applicable Models:

R53 (2002-06)

Parts Required:

Supercharger oil, gaskets

Hot Tip:

Remove the supercharger to service it

Performance Gain:

Longer life from your supercharger

Complementary Modification:

Coolant flush

Grinding noises from your supercharger are a sure sign that it is starting to fail and no amount of hoping is going to make it heel itself. The supercharger is partially cooled and lubricated by oil within the housing that needs maintenance and if this is a surprise to you then there is a good chance the oil has failed and the supercharger will need to be replaced. Do not let your supercharger fail due to the fact that you did not service it correctly or often enough. The scheduled oil change is called for at 50,000 miles but doing it sooner will not hurt; especially if you run your car at the track. The supercharger is one of the most expensive components on the car and even though this is not a quick job, it can end up saving you a lot of money verses neglecting it.

While you can top up the oil while the supercharger is still in the car, I highly recommend removing it so you can completely drain the unit and inspect it and the oil for signs of damage.

Over the years your car may have been serviced by multiple people including previous owners and this can lead to parts replaced with different size fasteners and hardware. The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches. If something is different on your vehicle please let us know and share your info to help other users. If you have any questions or comments or even a different procedure you would like to share please leave it below and please include your vehicle information.

Begin by removing the front clip.
Figure 1

Begin by removing the front clip. Some people claim that you can do this with the front in the service position but do yourself a favor and just remove it completely. It only take a few more minutes and will save you a lot of time and frustration over trying to work around it, especially if this is your first time. Please see our article on radiator replacement for step by step instructions.

Next you will need to remove the inter-cooler; please see our article on intercooler replacement for additional assistance.
Figure 2

Next you will need to remove the inter-cooler; please see our article on intercooler replacement for additional assistance.

Disconnect the wiring connection on the front left side of the engine (red arrow).
Figure 3

Disconnect the wiring connection on the front left side of the engine (red arrow).

Use your serpentine belt tool (red arrow) and remove the serpentine belt; please see our article on belt replacement for further instructions.
Figure 4

Use your serpentine belt tool (red arrow) and remove the serpentine belt; please see our article on belt replacement for further instructions.

Use a 16mm wrench and remove the bolt for the belt tensioner bracket on the end of the supercharger (red arrow).
Figure 5

Use a 16mm wrench and remove the bolt for the belt tensioner bracket on the end of the supercharger (red arrow).

Next use a 10mm socket and remove the two bolts holding the dipstick and tube to the engine (red arrows).
Figure 6

Next use a 10mm socket and remove the two bolts holding the dipstick and tube to the engine (red arrows).

Remove the dipstick and tube and make sure to plug the hole to the crankcase (red arrow).
Figure 7

Remove the dipstick and tube and make sure to plug the hole to the crankcase (red arrow). You are going to be removing the water pump and even though you have drained the system there is going to be a fair amount of fluid in the coolant pump when you remove it and you do not want it getting into the crankcase.

Remove the throttle body; please see our article on throttle body replacement for additional assistance.
Figure 8

Remove the throttle body; please see our article on throttle body replacement for additional assistance.

Use a flathead screwdriver and remove the two hose clamps (yellow arrow).
Figure 9

Use a flathead screwdriver and remove the two hose clamps (yellow arrow). Use a 10mm socket (red arrow) and remove the air supply tube from the supercharger.

There are two plastic hard hoses attached to the tube that you need to remove (red arrows).
Figure 10

There are two plastic hard hoses attached to the tube that you need to remove (red arrows). Press down on the red circle on the base of the tubes and pull them straight out. These tubes along with the mounts get brittle over the years so take care that you do not damage them when removing.

The previous owner of our project car had broken his and tried to fix it (poorly) with JB Weld and RVT.
Figure 11

The previous owner of our project car had broken his and tried to fix it (poorly) with JB Weld and RVT. Make sure to press down on the red circle and do not attempt to pry it upward with a screwdriver.

Disconnect the wiring for the alternator and remove it; please see our article on alternator removal if you need additional help.
Figure 12

Disconnect the wiring for the alternator and remove it; please see our article on alternator removal if you need additional help.

Use a 13mm socket and or wrench and remove the four bolts (red arrows) holding the supercharger to the water pump.
Figure 13

Use a 13mm socket and or wrench and remove the four bolts (red arrows) holding the supercharger to the water pump.

Loosen the two 10 mm bolts holding the tube/bracket that the water pump sits in and connects to the block (red arrows) and then pull the pump off the supercharger and block.
Figure 14

Loosen the two 10 mm bolts holding the tube/bracket that the water pump sits in and connects to the block (red arrows) and then pull the pump off the supercharger and block. Coolant is going to flow out so be ready to properly catch and dispose of it.

Always replace the O-rings that sits between the block and water pump tube when reinstalling.
Figure 15

Always replace the O-rings that sits between the block and water pump tube when reinstalling.

At this point you can service the supercharger.
Figure 16

At this point you can service the supercharger. You can see the 3/16 Hex service bolt (red arrow) on the right side of the unit and while you could remove the bolt, suck out the old oil and pump in some new, you will not be able to get all of the oil out or much of the metal if there is any. While it is easy to top up the oil from this point, I always remove the supercharger and change the oil. The oil is cheap and good insurance against damaging the most expensive component on the car, and it only take a few more minutes to remove it.

Figure 17

Here is the access bolt on the left side of the unit (red arrow) but again I removed the complete supercharger to do a more thorough job

Remove the diverter tube form the supercharger by pushing down on the red circle and lifting it up (red arrow).
Figure 18

Remove the diverter tube form the supercharger by pushing down on the red circle and lifting it up (red arrow).

Use a 13mm socket and remove the four bolts holding the supercharger to the engine (red arrows)--the bolts are different lengths so keep track of them.
Figure 19

Use a 13mm socket and remove the four bolts holding the supercharger to the engine (red arrows)--the bolts are different lengths so keep track of them.

You can now pull the supercharger and charged air plenum off the engine.
Figure 20

You can now pull the supercharger and charged air plenum off the engine.

Take the supercharger to your bench and use a 3/16 Hex socket to remove the plug (red arrow).
Figure 21

Take the supercharger to your bench and use a 3/16 Hex socket to remove the plug (red arrow). It is important that you make sure the socket is well seated as you do not want to strip this plug.

Check the condition of the plug and O-ring, inspect it for metal shavings and replace as needed.
Figure 22

Check the condition of the plug and O-ring, inspect it for metal shavings and replace as needed.

Drain all of the oil preferably into a container that you can inspect it in.
Figure 23

Drain all of the oil preferably into a container that you can inspect it in. This oil is going to stink so I recommend doing this in a well ventilated area.

Inspect the oil for metal; small amounts of tiny particles (red arrow) are normal but any larger pieces are a sign of trouble.
Figure 24

Inspect the oil for metal; small amounts of tiny particles (red arrow) are normal but any larger pieces are a sign of trouble.

Fill the port with new oil (notice the difference in color) and turn the unit level on its side as it is mounted in the engine.
Figure 25

Fill the port with new oil (notice the difference in color) and turn the unit level on its side as it is mounted in the engine.

The unit is full when it is level with the bottom of the service opening and a small amount dribbles out (red arrow).
Figure 26

The unit is full when it is level with the bottom of the service opening and a small amount dribbles out (red arrow).

Servicing the left side of the unit is the same as the right.
Figure 27

Servicing the left side of the unit is the same as the right. Installation is the reverse of removal and do not forget to replace any gaskets or O-rings that you removed.

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