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Pelican Technical Article:
Window Regulator Replacement

Jared Fenton
 

 
Time: 4 hours
Tab: $2-150
Talent:  
Tools:
T20 and T30 Torx drivers, 5mm Hex driver, Philips and Flat head screwdrivers
Applicable Models:
R50 MINI Cooper (2002-06)
R53 MINI Cooper S (2002-06)
R52 MINI Cooper Convertible (2005-08)
R52 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2005-08)
Parts Required:
new window regulator and/or motor
Hot Tip:
Take your time and make sure everything lines up
Performance Gain:
Smooth, reliable window operation
Complementary Modification:
Install a new power window motor if needed
 
   

  This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Pelican Parts' new book, How to Maintain and Modify your new MINI. The book contains 240 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads. With more than 500+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any MINI owner's collection. The book is due to be released in late 2012. See The Official Book Website for more details.
 

Check out some other sample projects from the book: 

Need to buy parts for this project? Click here to order!
   
     Have you gotten tired of having to open your door and get out to get your burger at the drive thru window?  Does your window kink to one side when you’re trying to raise it?  Perhaps it’s time to replace your window regulator. The difficulty of this project varies depending upon which year car you have, but the results are immediate and quite rewarding.  Not much is better than driving in your MINI with the sunroof open and the windows down on a nice sunny day.  Having a broken window regulator can surely put a damper on that.

     Replacing the window regulator and motor is not particularly a difficult procedure but it does involve some detailed steps to make sure that the window works properly. The first step in replacing either the regulator or the power window motor is to remove the door panel (See Figure 2). At the upper rear edge of the door is a small plastic reflector. Under this reflector is a small Phillips head screw. Carefully pry off the reflector as it is a bit fragile and remove the screw underneath (See Figure 3 and Figure 4 ) .Next, move to the front upper part of the door and use a small flat head screwdriver to pry around all the edges of the door handle surround panel. Once the panel is loose, carefully remove it (See Figure 5 and Figure 6 ). Move on to the bottom of the door panel and use the screwdriver to pry out the door light assembly and unplug the electrical connection. Set the light aside (See Figure 7). Next, remove the two long T30 Torx screws securing the front door pull area of the door panel to the door (See Figure 8).

     Now you’re ready to pry the door panel off the door. Start at the upper rear side and stick a large flat head screwdriver in between the door panel and the door. It should take just a little bit of force to pop the door panel off. (See Figure 9) Work your way around the lower edge of the door first, and pull the door panel straight off the top panel. Keep in mind that you will need to maneuver the door panel up and off of the door lock button. With the panel removed, you will see the large oval hole in the door that allows access to the internal components (See Figure 10).

      At the upper front of the door, you’ll see three small Phillips screws securing the door handle assembly to the door. You’ll need to remove these in order to access one of the 10mm bolts for the window regulator (See Figure 11 and Figure 12 ). Once removed, let the door handle assembly hang free.

           The window glass is secured to the regulator rails with two interesting looking cog-shaped pegs. These pegs aren’t easily visible from outside the door. I’ve taken a few pictures with the glass and regulator assemble free of the door to illustrate how the whole assembly is held together (See Figure 13 and Figure 14 ). In the factory manual, BMW specifies the use of a specialized tool that grips the outside of the peg in order to remove it, however you can use a 5mm hex key in the center of the peg to loosen it and simply thread it off by hand (See Figure 14 and Figure 15 ). The key here is to lower the window just enough to be able to fit the hex key in the center of the peg. It took me a few tries to get it positioned exactly where I could remove the pegs without trouble (See Figure 17).

           With the pegs removed, remove the window glass from the top of the door frame. It should come out easily through the top channel with a little maneuvering. If you feel any force holding it in or any binding, STOP and recheck that both pegs are removed and the glass isn’t hung up on anything inside the door panel (See Figure 18). Set the glass aside in a safe place for the time being. Look towards the front panel of the door and remove the three T20 Torx screws that secure the window motor to the door (See Figure 19).

           Up inside the top edge of the door are two large white clips that secure the window regulator cables inside the doors. These are one of those things that are difficult to photograph due to the location, but assured they are up in there and can be a bit of a pain to remove. The clip has a hook on the top edge and a tension clip on the bottom. The idea here is to pry the clips free from the bottom. It can be done by hand, but unfortunately it’s all done by feel (See Figure 20).

           Next, remove the 10mm bolt behind the door handle assembly you removed earlier and the other 10mm bolt at the top rear of the door
(See Figure 21 and Figure 22). These hold the window regulator rails along the top edge. Look underneath the door and remove the two 10mm bolts that mount the rails at the bottom (See Figure 23 and Figure 24).

           Now remove the front regulator rail by moving the front upper edge towards the oval access panel (See Figure 23). It will take a bit of maneuvering, but you need to be able to access the electrical plug for the window motor. Just carefully work the rail loose until you can move it enough to reach the plug on the motor. Press the release tab and slide the plug off (See Figure 24 and Figure 25). At this point, you should easily be able to completely remove the front rail from the door. Look at the rear of the door and remove the small black clip that holds one of the window cables to the door (See Figure 26). You should now be able to remove the rear window regulator rail like the front. Just angle it enough to remove it from the door (See Figure 27).

            The new window regulator will come with two 10mm bolts for the upper connection in the door as well as three new T20 Torx screws for securing the motor to the new gearbox. Set these screws aside for the time being (See Figure 28). Now, look at the old regulator assembly. The window motor is sandwiched in between a plastic frame and the gearbox. The upper frame acts as an adapter panel to secure the motor to the gearbox and at the same time, provide a mounting surface for the motor to the door. Remove the three T20 Torx screws and remove both the upper frame and the window motor (See Figure 29 and Figure 30 ).

            Fit either the old motor or a new motor to the gearbox on the new window regulator gearbox. The gearbox has a splined shaft which will be a tight fit, but will slide in with just a little force. Keep the relative position of the motor on the old gearbox in mind when placing it on the new gearbox (See Figure 31 and Figure 32 ). Now fit the mounting frame over the motor (it only goes on one way) and install the new T20 Torx screws. The screws are designed to cut the threads into the plastic holes on the gearbox as you thread them in, so use caution and make sure that the screws are centered (See Figure 33).

            Now, take the front rail of the new window regulator with the motor installed and carefully position it inside the door. Like before, you will have to angle the rail to get it in. I suggest starting with the bottom edge first and slide it back far enough so that you can reconnect the harness going to the window motor (See Figure 34). Now, rotate the rail upwards so that you can see the top of the new rail line up with the hole in the door. Thread in the new 10mm bolt that came with it and tighten it down (See Figure 35). Place the lower part of the rail on the plastic foot at the bottom of the inside of the door. From the outside, loosely thread the lower 10mm bolts up and into the rail. The motor adapter plate holes should now line up with the holes in the door. Screw in the three T20 Torx screws to secure the motor to the door.

            Now take the rear regulator rail and like the front, angle it so that you can first fit in the bottom edge, then rotate it up so that you can thread the 10mm bolt in at the top. Place the foot of the rear rail on the plastic foot at the bottom and loosely thread the bolt in at the bottom (See Figure 36). Now take the two large white clips and find the mounting holes in the upper door frame. Hook the two clips in and press the tabs into the frame. Also, Don’t forget to fit the black plastic holding clip into the door (See Figures 20 and 26).

            At this point, take the window glass and carefully feed it through the top channel and down into the cup-like receiver on each regulator rail (See Figure 37). Take the regulator pegs and carefully maneuver them up inside the door panel and screw them through the holes in the window glass into the regulator sliders Snug them up, but don’t tighten them fully at this point. Just enough to where the window glass won’t move.

            Before we can button everything back up, we need to make two adjustments to the regulator to make sure it operates correctly. The first adjustment is called pre-tensioning. This is how hard the window contacts the window seal from the side. Close the door with the window up until the door latch clicks once. At this point, there should be a large gap between the window and the seal. The idea here is to adjust the axial movement of the window until you can just slide a piece of paper between the window and the seal (See Figure 38).

            This gap is adjusted by the plastic feet on the bottom of the door. Using a 10mm socket, move the bolts on the front and rear of the door until you can get a piece of paper to just slide in and out of the gap between the window and seal. Once this gap is correct, tighten the two lower mounting bolts (See Figure 39).

            The last adjustment is the position adjustment. From inside the door, loosen up the window retaining pegs so that you can just slightly move the window glass. I’ve included a picture that shows how the glass can move with the peg loose (See Figure 40). Now roll the window up all the way and close the door.

            When you close the doors on your MINI, the window automatically moves up a slight amount into the window channel. This is allow the pressure inside the car to equalize before the window fully seals against the frame. Otherwise, the air pressure inside the car could damage the window if you were to slam it hard. The position adjustment sets the gap correctly between the window and the channel. Use some tape to mark the position of the window. You should have a minimum of 5mm along the top edge and 3.5mm along the front edge.

            Now, you’re probably wondering, how do I move the window with the door closed? Well, BMW specifies the use of a tool with two handles attached to two suction cups to be placed on the outside of the window. I simply went into the bathroom and grabbed a plunger. I was able to use the plunger to move the window to within specification although it take a lot of time to get it dialed exactly in. If you have access to glass suction cups, it would probably make the job a bit easier. Once adjusted, keep the door closed, climb in through the other side and tighten the window retaining pegs with the 5mm hex key.

       Now,  before you close everything up inside your door, it’s a wise idea to test the proper operation of the window.  Make sure that it goes up and down easily with no noise or binding. Once you are certain it is adjusted properly, you can refit the door panel.     

       Along the top edge of the door, you’ll see a series of metal tension clips that fit into slots on the upper edge of the door panel (See Figure 41 and Figure 42 ). Line the door lock button up through the hole in the top of the panel and line the clips up with the panel. Give it a slight push and both the front and rear. This should pop the panel in at the top. Now, look at the sides of the door panel. You’ll see a series of white plastic clips. These fit into holes on the door  (See Figure 43). Line up each clip with the door and give it a good whack with your hand around the perimeter of the door. NOTE: make sure that you route the harness for the lower door light through the hole on the panel before the panel is flush with the door. All that's left now is to re-install the small Phillips screw and reflector, the two T30 Torx screws securing the door pull, the door handle surround trim and the door light assembly on the bottom edge.

    
Replacing the window regulator and motor is not particularly a difficult procedure but it does involve some detailed steps to make sure that the window works properly.
Figure 1
Replacing the window regulator and motor is not particularly a difficult procedure but it does involve some detailed steps to make sure that the window works properly.
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The first step in replacing the regulator is to remove the door panel.
Figure 2
The first step in replacing the regulator is to remove the door panel. You will need to remove the door handle surround (yellow arrow) the two T30 Torx screws holding the pull handle assembly to the door (green arrows), the small Phillips head screw under the reflector (purple arrow) and the door light assembly (blue arrow)
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Carefully pry off the reflector at the upper rear of the door panel using a small flat head screwdriver.
Figure 3
Carefully pry off the reflector at the upper rear of the door panel using a small flat head screwdriver.
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Remove the small Phillips head screw under the reflector and set it aside in a safe place.
Figure 4
Remove the small Phillips head screw under the reflector and set it aside in a safe place.
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Use a small flat head screwdriver to carefully pry around all the edges of the door handle surround panel.
Figure 5
Use a small flat head screwdriver to carefully pry around all the edges of the door handle surround panel.
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Once loose, carefully remove the door handle surround and set it aside.
Figure 6
Once loose, carefully remove the door handle surround and set it aside.
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Look on the bottom edge of the door panel and pry out the door light from the rear.
Figure 7
Look on the bottom edge of the door panel and pry out the door light from the rear. Pull the electrical off the light assembly and set the light aside.
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Remove the two long T30 Torx screws securing the door pull to the door panel (Green arrows).
Figure 8
Remove the two long T30 Torx screws securing the door pull to the door panel (Green arrows).
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Use a large flat blade screwdriver around the sides and lower edges of the door panel to remove it from the door.
Figure 9
Use a large flat blade screwdriver around the sides and lower edges of the door panel to remove it from the door. Once the these edges are loose, simply pull the door panel free from the top edge and up over the door lock button.
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Shown here is the door with the panel removed.
Figure 10
Shown here is the door with the panel removed. The window regulator is inside the oval access panel in the center.
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The door handle is secured to the upper front door with three small Phillips head screws (green arrows).
Figure 11
The door handle is secured to the upper front door with three small Phillips head screws (green arrows). You will need to remove the handle to access the 10mm bolt underneath later in the article.
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Remove the three Phillips head screws and let the door handle hang free.
Figure 12
Remove the three Phillips head screws and let the door handle hang free. 
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ThisPicture shows the two star shaped retaining pegs that secure the window glass to the window regulator (green arrows).
Figure 13
This picture shows the two star shaped retaining pegs that secure the window glass to the window regulator (green arrows). I've included this picture to show the pegs as they aren't very visible with the regulator and window glass installed in the door.
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BMW specifies the use of a special tool to grip the retaining pegs, however, you can use a 5mm hex key to remove the pegs (green arrow).
Figure 14
BMW specifies the use of a special tool to grip the retaining pegs, however, you can use a 5mm hex key to remove the pegs (green arrow).
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Shown here is the front retaining peg inside the door cavity.
Figure 15
Shown here is the front retaining peg inside the door cavity. Turn the key on and lower the window just enough to where you can fit the 5mm hex key into the center of the peg (green arrow). It's a bit of a tight fit, but both can be removed in this manner.
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As above, lower the window enough to gain access and remove the rear retaining peg.
Figure 16
As above, lower the window enough to gain access and remove the rear retaining peg. Once you break the peg loose, you should be able to turn it just by hand until it comes off.
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Shown here is the retaining peg removed from the regulator.
Figure 17
Shown here is the retaining peg removed from the regulator. You may have to do a little maneuvering to remove both of them as clearance is very tight.
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Once both pegs are out, simply pull the window glass up and out of the door through the top channel.
Figure 18
Once both pegs are out, simply pull the window glass up and out of the door through the top channel. Set the window aside in a safe place for now.
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These arrows show the locations of the two 10mm upper mounting bolts (green arrows), the two 10mm lower mounting bolts (purple arrows), and the three T20 Torx screws that secure the window motor to the door frame (yellow arrows).
Figure 19
These arrows show the locations of the two 10mm upper mounting bolts (green arrows), the two 10mm lower mounting bolts (purple arrows), and the three T20 Torx screws that secure the window motor to the door frame (yellow arrows). Remove the Torx screws at this time.
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The upper cables of the window regulator are secured up inside the door by the two white clips shown in this photo.
Figure 20
The upper cables of the window regulator are secured up inside the door by the two white clips shown in this photo. Unfortunately, I can't get the camera up inside the door panel to show how they hook in. You'll have to reach up inside the door panel for the clip and pry it out from the bottom, using the top of the clip as the fulcrum point.

Note:
The white clips are NOT available for purchase separately, so please be patient when prying them out.
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Under the inner door handle (removed earlier) is the upper mounting bolt for the front regulator rail (green arrow).
Figure 21
Under the inner door handle (removed earlier) is the upper mounting bolt for the front regulator rail (green arrow). Remove both of the upper 10mm mounting bolts.
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Remove the two lower 10mm mounting bolts Don't lose the washer for this bolt as it is needed when adjusting the pre-tension on the window.
Figure 22
Remove the two lower 10mm mounting bolts Don't lose the washer for this bolt as it is needed when adjusting the pre-tension on the window.
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Remove the front regulator rail by pulling the top edge out as shown in the photo.
Figure 23
Remove the front regulator rail by pulling the top edge out as shown in the photo.
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As you pull the front rail out, you will see the electrical connection to the power window motor.
Figure 24
As you pull the front rail out, you will see the electrical connection to the power window motor.
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Press the release tab on the side of the electrical connection and disconnect it from the power window motor.
Figure 25
Press the release tab on the side of the electrical connection and disconnect it from the power window motor. Now, pull the front regulator rail completely out of the door.
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Don't forget to remove the retaining clip (purple arrow) from the mounting hole in the door (green arrow).
Figure 26
Don't forget to remove the retaining clip (purple arrow) from the mounting hole in the door (green arrow). You will also mount the new regulator cabling through the same hole.
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Slide the rear window regulator rail out as shown in the photo.
Figure 27
Slide the rear window regulator rail out as shown in the photo. pull the lower edge of the rail towards the door until the top edge can be pulled out of the door.
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Shown here is the new window regulator.
Figure 28
Shown here is the new window regulator. Remove the two new 10mm bolts in the top and set them aside. Before installing, it is necessary to either transfer the power window motor from the old regulator or use a new motor.
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Remove the three T20 Torx screws securing the upper motor frame and motor to the regulator gearbox (green arrows).
Figure 29
Remove the three T20 Torx screws securing the upper motor frame and motor to the regulator gearbox (green arrows). The upper motor frame acts as an adapter plate to secure the motor to the door.
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Remove the upper motor frame and take note of the mounting position of the motor.
Figure 30
Remove the upper motor frame and take note of the mounting position of the motor.
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Shown here is the new window regulator gearbox.
Figure 31
Shown here is the new window regulator gearbox. You’ll notice that the inside of the gearbox has a splined drive that the window motor fits into. The new regulator should come already greased, so there's no need to lubricate it.
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Fit the power window motor into the regulator gearbox.
Figure 32
Fit the power window motor into the regulator gearbox. Keep in mind that it can only fit on the gearbox one way. Carefully pull the motor off the gearbox and set it aside.
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Fit the upper motor frame to the motor as shown in the photo.
Figure 33
Fit the upper motor frame to the motor as shown in the photo. The frame also only fits onto the motor one way. Now, take the supplied T20 Torx screws and tighten the upper frame and motor onto the gearbox.
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Place the front window regulator rail into the door cavity at an angle, starting with the lower edge first, carefully maneuvering the motor back to where you can re-connect the electrical plug.
Figure 34
Place the front window regulator rail into the door cavity at an angle, starting with the lower edge first, carefully maneuvering the motor back to where you can re-connect the electrical plug.
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Remove the new 10mm bolt in the top of each new window regulator rail, then line up the mounting hole with the hole in the door.
Figure 35
Remove the new 10mm bolt in the top of each new window regulator rail, then line up the mounting hole with the hole in the door. Now thread the two 10mm bolts in loosely.
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Place the bottom of the front and rear window regulator rails onto the plastic feet inside the door and loosely thread the 10mm bolts from the bottom.
Figure 36
Place the bottom of the front and rear window regulator rails onto the plastic "feet" inside the door and loosely thread the 10mm bolts from the bottom. Don't forget to place the two large white clips up into the mounting holes inside the door and the black tab on the rear edge of the door.
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At this point, re-install the window through the top of the door, making sure that each leg of the glass fits into the cup on the window regulator.
Figure 37
At this point, re-install the window through the top of the door, making sure that each leg of the glass fits into the cup on the window regulator. Once in place, re-fit the window retaining pegs on each side. Just snug them up at this time, as you will need to be able to move the window for final adjustment.
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The next step is to make the first of two adjustments to the window.
Figure 38
The next step is to make the first of two adjustments to the window. The first is the pre-tension adjustment. This sets the tension of the window against the door seal when the door is closed. Close the door until the latch clicks on the first position. There should be a sizeable gap between the window and the door seal.
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On the bottom edge of the door are the position adjusters.
Figure 39
On the bottom edge of the door are the position adjusters. Move the "feet" of the adjuster until you can just slide a piece of paper in between the gap of the window and the door seal. The green arrows show the direction of adjustment possible. Once you have the adjustment correct, tighten the upper and lower 10mm bolts on the window regulator rails.
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The second adjustment required is the position adjustment.
Figure 40
The second adjustment required is the position adjustment. The door windows on the MINI raise a slight bit when you fully close the doors. Close the doors and measure the depth that the window travels into the top and front edge of the door seal once the door is fully closed. You adjust this by loosening the window retaining pegs and moving the window in the directions required. BMW specifies the use of a two suction cups on the outside of the window to move it with the door closed. I managed the same effect by using a toilet plunger on the outside of the window and moved each edge until it was correct. Once in place, tighten the retaining pegs on the inside of the door. The distance the window should travel along the top edge is 5mm and 3.5mm along the front edge.
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The final steps are to re-install the door panel.
Figure 41
The final steps are to re-install the door panel. In this picture you can see the top edge of the door panel is secured with tension clips along the top edge. Each clip along the top fits into the corresponding slot in the door panel (purple arrow).
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Make sure that you route the door lock button (green arrow) through the hole on the top of the door panel.
Figure 42
Make sure that you route the door lock button (green arrow) through the hole on the top of the door panel.
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Like the top of the door panel, the side and bottom edge are held on with plastic clips.
Figure 43
Like the top of the door panel, the side and bottom edge are held on with plastic clips. It's important to line up each clip with it's corresponding hole in the door. Once lined up, a good smack with the side of your hand along the perimeter of the panel will pop the door panel into place.
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Need to buy parts for this project? Click here to order!
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Comments and Suggestions:
Aloha808 Comments: Posting here cause it was the closest in proximity to the issue at hand. Is there a way to unlock the door through the door panel oval via wire?? My passenger door is locked fr inside and outside. Door panel barely pried open. Considering removing the seats. Any help is much appreciated! Other forums are no help on this.
June 24, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes. With the door panel removed, follow the door lock rod down to the latch. Then move the lever the rod connects to to unlock. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
rhcoopers Comments: Just to clarify, I'm starting to noticed a larger gap between the window and the C and D pillars. As in the weather seal is becoming more exposed and the window has scooted forward. Which adjusters fix this? the ones at the bottom of the door or the sprocket adjusters which requires me to remove the panel?
June 17, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the seal is not worn and in good shape, you can try adjusting the window. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
corey Comments: excellent write up! do you have any idea where the retaining pegs or the nylon washers on outside can be purchased?? I have damaged one and looked for days with no luck
April 16, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Mike Comments: Thank-you for your detailed step by step it was very much appreciated.
February 24, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Gary Comments: My passenger side window stopped working so I pulled it apart with your detailed procedure, but I found a discerpancy - my regulator/motor assemply did not have the adaptor plate shown in figure 29. Is this possibly an omission by the factory or a subsequent incomplete repair? The failure seemed rather dramatic - the steel cable pulled apart. Might this have been caused by incorrect installation? If I need this adaptor plate, where can I find one? Thanks Gary
February 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The cable failing that way is pretty standard. Your vehicle may not require the plate, was the motor attached to the door and secure when you removed it? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
MikeM Comments: Excellent write up. Quick question on the gap adjustment. No matter what I do I cannot get the window to seal tightly against the outside seal fig 39 adjustment. At this stage I am considering adding some washers to the top mount bolt to go between the regulator and the door to push it back a little.
Thoughts?
February 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I would not add the washers. The regulator may not be going up enough. Is the glass adjust correctly? (fig 40) - Nick at Pelican Parts  
miniForest Comments: Excellent help. Just finished mine. 2.5 hours on first try. Had some wind noise, so re-adjusted. All done in 3.5 hours.

As mentioned in another comment, my original and replacement motor bracket had 4 screws instead of the 3 in this write-up see attached photo, and I had to temporarily remove the gearbox plate using one small Torx screw to get access to 2 of the four screws. All pretty obvious, but different from what is shown here.

Also, my tip for adjusting the window is to pay attention to the gap along the angled front edge of the glass. Compare it to the other side window that you are not replacing. Mine was tight up against the A-pillar - I could not even slide a fingernail in front of the window except near the very bottom, and then just barely.

Thanks for the article, and the fine quality replacement regulator.
February 22, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback and additional info. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mike Comments: If your window switch reverses, take the four screws out of the metal case that houses the window motor and turn the case 180 degrees. Reinstall the screws. Put everything back together. You tube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuxqYhsJDis. Or search You tube for "mini cooper window switch reversal"
My thanks to the Pelican Staff for an excellent DYI posting on this repair. Great work. Thank you very much.
February 13, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Ian R Comments: Thanks for the link Justin...my motor has not worked for about 4 months. I was just about to pay for a new regulator but just tried hitting the inside of the door with the switch in the down position and hey presto..it now works :-
February 10, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That is a sign of a bad commutator bar on the motor. i would replace it with a new one so it doesn't get stuck down. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Louis Comments: Without your detail information about my mini window regulator and motor, I would not be able to get my front window fixed without any damage. Many thanks.
January 25, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
M3glfman Comments: Passenger window is stuck in the up position. I have the door panel off, the cog shaped pegs loose; tried all the tricks to lower the window and nothing works. What can I force, break, pry, cut etc to lower the window enough to get the pegs out? Thanks
January 11, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can cut the drive cable for the window regulator. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Kevenmac Comments: Once again you guys saved me lots o money! If you want to update the article, I manage to snap a picture of those upper retaining clips with my cel phone. attached. Oh also...my 2002 had 4 screws holding the motor to the frame of the regulator, not three...and my new regulator not from you guys, came with the car from the prior owner also had four. I hope there are not two versions out there since I now need to order the driver side regulator from you.
November 10, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Glad it worked out. Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Spigg42 Comments: People of Pelican, I've just replaced the driver's side R.H. Drive window motor in my MINI Cooper Park Lane 2006, and I couldn't have done it with out your help.
The photo's and explanations you provided are excellent. Regarding the "star shaped" window pegs, I had to resort to the long screwdriver and hammer method to loosen them. Incidently my neighbor actually had the magic "bicycle chain" type tool, but my window was fully up so I wasn't able to use it.
September 23, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback and tip. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bhaggen Comments: How do you get the rear trim panel off? The seat-back in the rear hinges thru a hole in the panel. And how does one get the window up if the regulator is bad? I can hear the motor running and "crunching" noises. I would appreciate more detailed info for the rear regulator. Thanks
September 4, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: To remove trim panel:
-Remove rear seat bottom and backrest.
-Open convertible top.
-Unclip rear side trim clip at front of B-pillar.
-Detach mucket from side trim at B-pillar.
-Remove fastener at front of B-pillar trim panel.

-Remove seat belt fastener on entrance cover strip.

-Lever out expansion rivets. Release screw.

-Unclip clips and remove side trim inwards and upwards.

-Lever out trim panel clips on inner window cavity cover strip.

-Carefully lever out window cavity cover strip with MINI special tool 00 9 317 towards top.

-Remove outer window cavity cover strip.

This is about as deatiled as I can get. I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799

- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
bhaggen Comments: What about the rear regulator on an 06 convertible? I just did the L/F & now the L/R. These "fishing reel" regulators are for the birds!
August 27, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The rear regulator is quite involved, I'll do my best to highlight the key points.

First you will have to remove the rear interior trim panel, then the window weatherstrip. Then you have to raise the window about 6 inches, then remove the regulator fasteners are the top of the side panel, there are two. Then remove one fastener at the side, then finally the fastener that is accessed through a hole below the speaker. Slide the regulator out and disconnect the electrical connector. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
teknotexan Comments: Figures 21 and 22 are missing! The order goes 19,20,23,24,23,24. The much needed placement of the 10mm bolts under the door is not pictured.

I used this write-up only and it is great! Tightening the gears is easy. Hand tighten from inside while pushing up the window. If you can do the yoga Eagle posture, you can do this Then, using a simply flat head, lever it into a gear and push it tight.
August 21, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: When I load the page: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/63-BODY-Window_Regulator_Replacement/63-BODY-Window_Regulator_Replacement.htm All of the figure images and text are there. I would try clearing your cookings and reloading the page.

Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Bartman Comments: Great job on this article! This really helped me out alot! Now that I have the window actuator replaced and working fine, I have to lift the toggle switch up to lower the window and down to raise the window. Any suggestions?
August 13, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I have not run into this problem. There could be a wiring issue with the new motor, the polarity could be switched. I would check with MINI to see if programming wil remedy the issue. As mentioned by another user below, he has heard this is a software issue.

I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Justin Comments: Before ordering replacement parts, try this. It worked for me. http://eal.us/2009/08/29/when-your-minis-window-gets-stuck/
August 11, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it.
Keep in mind, this is a sign of a failing motor and this trick will only work so many times. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
bhaggen Comments: Just completed the driver's door on a 06 convertible. The photos were especially helpful, thanks. It had a 4th Torx screw under the trailing end of the armrest as mellow1771's photo shows. Don't know what language that is. To remove armrest slide a butter knife under the leading edge, depress the release "tab" and pull armrest forward. Voila! I used ¼" drive ratchet & SHARP Hazet 5mm allen socket for "pegs" keys have too much torsional twist. Don't remove white clips fig 20 they pop open & snap shut later! Take the rear rail out 1st then the ft rail maneuvers easy. The window stays slightly down till the door closes because otherwise it couldn't fit into the upper seal. Couldn't find Sophia's "triangle window"...flash-back to some "windowpane" you took in the 60s; eh Sophia?
August 7, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional information. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
AHMAD Comments: hello
please help me
i have a mitsubishi lancer sedan model of 1992 withe 4G13 MOTOR AND BODY MODEL IS CB1A-SNDLW
NOW Window Regulator DRIVER SIDE IS NO WORKING I NEED SHEMATICDIAGRAM FOR REIPAIR IT OR PICTURE OF IT
August 4, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sorry, we don't have that info. Try grabbing a repair manual. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
nydefense Comments: what about the airbags? How do you disconnect them and still have power to window?
August 2, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You disconnect the battery before removing the air bag. Then, once the airbag is removed, reconnect the battery. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Steve Comments: Thanks for the write-up. Job went well but the motor runs backwards. Up is down and down is up. The "dip" happens at the bottom. How can I fix? Dealer said they'd never heard of the problem, but I've seen it on forums before but never an answer other than "reprogram" the module. Is there another option other than a $125 shop charge at MINI? Many thanks!
July 29, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I have not run into this problem. There could be a wiring issue witht hemotor, the polarity could be switched. I would check with MINI to see if programming wil remedy the issue.

I opened a post in our forums. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question.- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mellow1771 Comments: Thanks, It's nice DIY.
But in figure2. No have one T30 Torx screws that I show it in my picture already. Thank you so much.
July 28, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Thom Comments: Hi, I stripped the hex screw that hold the retaining peg onto the rail, what other tool can i use to get that out. Thanks.
July 21, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can try vise grips. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
seeprosee Comments: Thanks for this - the hardest part was getting access to the star pegs to get the allen wrench into it, because our window was stuck in the UP/closed position. We got the window to move down by keeping the window switch in the down position, pushing down on the window and banging the door just above the speaker the window motor is located just behind. The motor brushes engaged just enough to inch the window down to get to the star pegs. I'm not sure this will work for everyone, but it worked for BOTH doors on our 2005 MC. Another comment, it is not necessary to take out the 10mm bolts for the regulator rail, if you're just replacing the motor. Just do the front one and follow the same instructions. Also - you might consider lightly greasing the regulator rails, if it looks dry - it makes for quieter and puts less stress on your new motor assy.
June 20, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional information. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
atraain Comments: Where can i buy the white clips from figure 20? Mine broke.
May 22, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help you find the right part.  
MiniRican Comments: Awesome DIY and awesome pics, I do have to say the best and easiest way to get the sprockets out is with an adjustable wrench.
May 12, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the tip. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Paul Comments: This was so useful, made the job a breeze.
May 4, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
MarkH Comments: Similarly the hardest part was loosening the star pegs especially the front one. I got round this by removing the wing mirror assembly which gave me immediate access to the allen key fitting in the centre of the star. I got extra leverage by sleeving the allen key with a long piece of pipe.
May 1, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for feedback and tip. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Kev Comments: How do I lower the window manually ?
April 1, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will have to disconnect the window glass from the regulator. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
janusred Comments: Great write-up super helpful! I do have a problem though, the same issues that caused the regulator to fail happened immediately after i replaced it. The window seems to have a really hard time getting back up or even down sometimes like there is something rubbing really hard on it and i can't figure it out :
February 19, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Double check to see if the window is properly aligned and inserted into the window seal and guide. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Sophia Comments: How do I get access to the little triangle shaped window?
February 11, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I'm not sure what triangle piece of glass you are referring to. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
tosapd101 Comments: Regarding the "sprocket" type window bolts. They are tough to get at with larger hands. I got one out with a 5mm hex but, then saw it was all one piece. I used a long screw driver and hammer to tap the other one loose until I could turn it with my hand. That was much easier and faster
January 16, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the info, I'm sure this will help someone inthe future. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Fergie Comments: Thx a ton - followed these directions explicitly and no issues with removal or re-install!!! Well done
January 13, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Rocky Comments: The pictures shown are for the passenger side. Is the driver side any different?
If so, how can I get the same type of instructions?
January 11, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You can use these instructions for the driver side as well. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Minitii Comments: Convinced me to have the dealer do it........
December 8, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. It's good to know your limits and not get over your head in a repair. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Sergio Comments: This was a life saver. To remove the star pegs you will need to loosen them first with a leather glove on your hand and some elbow grease if you don't have the special tool remember to apply extra pressure when starting the thread or they will not engage. 04 Mini Cooper 50
October 28, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the tip. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Doug Comments: Along with the Bentley manual, this was a life saver. The photos were an excellent resource. Unfortunately, tightening the star washers with the window in the up position is impossible. I still don't have the window perfectly set.
October 18, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It can be tough. The special tool is a life saver. You could always check if there is someone local willing to lend it to you. Or have a shop tighten them for you. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
SL Clark Comments: The previous tech overtightened the star pegs, so I had to tap them with a punch & hammer to get them moving. This isn't for the faint of heart - there's little room for error or you'll be buying glass. Other than this, it was easier than it sounds. Thanks for the perfect write-up. -S
2007 S Convertible
September 17, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the tip. I would be careful using a hammer and punch near window glass. But glad it worked out for you. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
alan Comments: Had the same problem with sprockets using allen key,so used a right angled small wrench with 5mm adaptor in.This worked as i could fit adaptor properly seated into hole and get better leverage.
August 24, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the helpful information. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
mxli66 Comments: Hi, My window doesn't work up or down I do everything but I can't lower the window to removed the sprockets.
How I lower the window manually?
August 9, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If you can access the window motor, disconnect it fromt he window regulator, then push the window down by hand. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Andrew Comments: Hi and thanks for the write up. I tried doing the project today and got stuck at the part where your remove the sprockets, mine were so tight one that I couldnt even move them a bit. My questions is on figure 16 do you push on the allen hex key up or down. I was pulling up and not sure if it is a left-hand threaded or something. thank you
July 13, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Remove it by rotating counter-clockwise. If it is too tight to remove, you may need the special tool to break it free. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jaffa Comments: Superb - that's it.
June 28, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks fo the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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  Applies to: R50 MINI Cooper (2002-06) - R53 MINI Cooper S (2002-06) - R52 MINI Cooper Convertible (2005-08) - R52 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2005-08) - R52 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2005-08) - R56 MINI Cooper (2007-) - R57 MINI Cooper Convertible (2007-)
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