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Driving Light Installation
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Driving Light Installation

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$400

Talent:

*****

Tools:

Socket set, screwdrivers, drill, crimping tools, Dremel tool

Applicable Models:

R50 MINI Cooper Hatchback (2002-06)
R52 MINI Cooper Convertible (2005-08)
R52 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2005-08)
R53 MINI Cooper S Hatchback (2002-06)

Parts Required:

driving light kit

Hot Tip:

measure twice, cut once.

Performance Gain:

better lighting

Complementary Modification:

replace front grille
How to Maintain and Modify your new MINI

This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Pelican Parts' new book, How to Maintain and Modify your new MINI The book contains 240 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads. With more than 500+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any MINI owner's collection. The book is due to be released in late 2015. See The Official Book Website for more details.

The Auxiliary driving lights were an additional option that was available for Minis. These kits offer a huge advantage in terms of lighting. At the same time, they add a great retro styling element to the cars reminiscent of the rally cars from the 1960's.

A few different kits are available for the Mini, however in this instance we will focus on the kits supplied and installed by the dealer (See Figure 1). One thing I did encounter while installing the kit was a lack of factory documentation regarding wiring and positioning. In trying to obtain the directions, I was given the option of having the dealer install the lights for me at cost. It may just be a matter of talking to the parts guy on a good day, but I've managed to put this article together to show how to install the lights.

Begin by first disconnecting the battery. We will be working around live 12V feeds and you can easily short against one of them. Disconnect the battery to be on the safe side.

Now remove the driver's side bolster panel. This is the large panel directly under the steering wheel Give it a good tug at the top and it should pop out. It is hinged at the bottom, so rotate it down and carefully remove the panel. The hinges on the panel are a bit tricky to maneuver off the frame, so use caution. The outer hinges pivot opposite to the center hinge. You might find it easy to angle the bolster as you remove it (See Figure 2).

Now remove the Torx screws holding the console pillars to the center console containing the radio, climate controls and switch panel (See Figure 3 and Figure 4). Now look up above the speedometer and remove the plastic sleeves that fit around both the instrument light dimmer switch and also the hazard light switch. They pull straight off with a slight tug (See Figure 5). Above these sleeves are two Torx screws that hold the instrument bezel to the dash. Remove these two screws (See Figure 6 and Figure 7).

Open the glovebox and remove the five mounting screws holding it to the dash. Don't forget the small screw holding the glove box to the rear of the panel (See Figure 8). Once the screws are out, lower the glovebox down slightly to disconnect the electrical harness going to the glovebox light. It just pulls out. Next, remove the glovebox assembly and set it aside (See Figures 9, 10 and 11).

Now look along the lower edge of the instrument bezel panel. There are two small screws that secure it to the dashboard. Remove these screws and carefully remove the front bezel panel off the dashboard. You may need to slightly pry it off. Next, remove the air vent assembly underneath the bezel panel. It simply pulls out. This will allow you to remove the two pillar covers on the center console. Also take note of the small piece of plastic tubing that connects the A/C system to the valve on the glovebox. It simply presses on to each end. It's easy to overlook this small piece when taking the glovebox out and re-installing it. (See Figures 12, 13, 14 and 15).

Pull the pillar covers back towards you and lift them up and out. They are held in place by blocks of foam at the bottom. Be careful not to damage the foam as you pull them out (See Figure 16).

Remove the screws that hold the radio in the console and pull the radio straight out (See Figure 17 and Figure 18) We will need to access the wiring harness that fits into the back of the radio. Pull down on the lever on the outside of the connector. This will release the connector from the radio (See Figure 19).

Now look at the front firewall near the brake booster. You'll see a large rubber grommet directly behind it. This is where you will feed the wires going to the lights through the firewall. Unravel the wiring loom. On one end of it, you will find two ground lugs, two sets of red and brown wires and a single red wire.

An easy way to start the loom is to push a wire through the grommet from the engine side and run it down to one of the ground lugs. Tie the wire to the ground lug and pull it back out of the grommet. Keep pulling until the looms for the lights (two sets of red and brown wires), two ground lugs and a single red wire for power emerge from the grommet. Once these have been pulled through the grommet far enough, they will merge into a single insulated run of cable (See Figure 20 and Figure 21).

Inside the car, you will see the following wires. A yellow wire with green stripe, a electrical connector with four wires going to it, a loom containing a purple wire with a blue stripe and a grey wire with a red stripe. There is also a relay connector which is not shown in the photo. Take the loom with the two wires and route it behind the dashboard so that it emerges through the opening for the radio (See Figure 22).

Look at the wiring harness going to the radio and find the purple wire with blue stripe. Take the supplied wire connector and route the new wiring loom so that the two wires sit in the connector as shown. Now flip the cover of the connector closed and use a pair of pliers to squeeze it shut. The conducting blade inside the connector will pierce both wires and splice them together. Now do the same for the grey wire with the red stripe. Find the same colored wire off the radio wiring harness and use a connector to splice the wire to the new wire off the new harness. This is the instrument backlight power lead and will illuminate the control switch for the driving lights when you turn the headlights on (See Figures 23, 24 and 25).

Now move over to the passenger side of the car and pull the trim panel off the inside of the car near the hood release handle. You'll need to pull the door seal off as well. Pull up the carpeting and the foam liner underneath to expose the body control module or (BCM). This unit controls most of the electrical functions of the car. We will need to tap into one of the wires in order for the lights to work (See Figure 26 and Figure 27).

Route the yellow/green wire behind the dashboard and over to the passenger side. Locate the harness connector that plugs into the bottom of the BCM. Use a pick or screw driver to pull the locking tab on the bottom of the harness connector towards you. As you pull the locking tab, it will separate itself from the BCM. Like before at the radio harness plug, locate the larger yellow/green wire and use the larger connector to splice the new wire (See Figures 28, 29 and 30).

Flip the cover of the wire connector closed and use a pair of pliers to cinch it closed (See Figure 31). At this point, you can pop the running board cover back on, reinstall the radio and speedometer trim parts, but leave the lower driver's bolster off as we will need to modify it to hold the control switch for the lights.

Now move to the engine compartment and pull the rubber seal off the top of the firewall near the driver's side hood hinge. Pull the grommet out of the notch in the sheet metal. You will want to route the cable looms that go to the driving lights and the ground points through this grommet. Start with the longer red and brown cable loom and pull it all the way through (See Figure 32).

Now follow the cable loom up the side of the hood hinge and pry all of the cable retainers out. Cut the cable ties off the stock loom (See Figures 33, 34 and 35). Now place the new cable retainer ties in the holes where the old ties were originally (See Figure 36).

Remove the 10mm ground nut on the body near the grommet. Take the two ground lugs from the new loom, place them on the ground point and re-fit the 10mm nut. This will act as the ground for the lights. Feed the wires for the ground lugs back though the grommet on the body until they have just enough length to reach the ground point. You may need to coil up the wires for the grounds and tie them up on the other side of the grommet (See Figures 37, 38 and 39).

Now align the new wiring loom along side the existing loom and pull all of the zip ties snug. Keep in mind that you only want to secure the new loom using the two upper zip ties along the hood hinge. (See Figure 40 and Figure 41). Make sure that you allow enough slack in the new loom to allow the hood to open and close without pulling on the wiring. Cut off the excess plastic with a pair of clippers

Route the loom for the driving lights up near the headlight and then under the hood insulation. Run the shorter length of wire to the driver's side of the grill, then work the other side up inside the hood to the passenger side. Zip tie the harness to the existing cable looms (See Figure 42).

Now take the single red wire from the loom and crimp the section of red wire with the fuse holder onto the end. This fuse prevents against any short circuits in the system (See Figure 43). Take the other end of the fused red wire and strip the insulation back about 7mm. Slide a piece of shrink tubing over the wire and crimp a ring terminal to the end. Once in place, slide the heat shrink tubing over the connection. Use a heat gun or a blow dryer to shrink the tubing around the connection (See Figure 44).

Remove the fuse box cover inside the engine compartment. Inside, you will see a 10mm bolt holding one of the power cables to the box near the rear. This is where we will connect the power for the lights. Drill a hole in the panel to feed the red wire through. Remove the 10mm bolt and feed the wire through the hole you just drilled. Secure the ring terminal to the 10mm bolt and tighten it back down in place. You'll also need to cut a notch in the underside of the rear of the fuse box cover in order for the wire to clear one the cover goes back on (See Figures 45, 46 and 47).

Now take the template supplied with the driving light kit and cut it out with a pair of scissors. Lay the template along the left edge of the driver's bolster panel and tape it in place. Use a permanent marker to trace the edges of the hole you'll need to cut for the light switch (See Figure 48).

Use an Exacto knife or razor blade to cut out the hole for the light switch. Take your time and be careful. Also, be sure to cut the small index mark in the hole for the switch (See Figure 49).

Re-fit the bolster panel up underneath the dashboard and press the switch into the hole you just cut. Fit the electrical connection from the harness into the switch on the backside of the bolster panel. Keep in mind that it can only go in one way (See Figure 50 and Figure 51).

Now move under the hood and mock up the light brackets in place and use a permanent marker to mark the position of the holes. The idea is to have the mounting surfaces of the bracket sit flush against the hood. This will take a bit of positioning to get it just right (See Figure 52).

Once the holes are marked, use a center punch to center the hole locations and then drill the holes. Take care to use cutting fluid and low speed Also take care when you start to break through as the bit can fly up and damage the upper surface of the hood. In some cases, you may need to drill through the bottom edge of the grille for the mounting bolts or rivets to pass through (See Figure 53).

Some cars shipped from the factory with what MINI calls the aerodynamic package with a different type of grille that does not have the slats, but rather a mesh that impedes the bracket from passing through. If you have this grille, you'll have to remove the nuts surrounding the grille and pull the grille off. If you look at the backside of the grille, you'll see a section molded into the plastic that sits lower that the mesh on either side of the grille. These sections are where you are intended to cut the plastic to allow the brackets to pass through (green lines). Use a Dremel or a razor knife to cut through the plastic. If your car has the slatted style grille, the brackets should just pass underneath (See Figure 54).

Once all the holes have been drilled, fit the brackets to the hood. The kit is supplied with a set of pop rivets designed to hold the bracket on, but I decided to use some small nuts and bolts instead. This makes it much easier to remove the brackets if you decide to remove them at some point (See Figure 55).

Run the loom for the lights up underneath the bracket on each side and orient the fastening pieces as shown here, fist the 14mm nut, then the lock washer, flat washer, up through the bracket, the plastic spacer and then the beveled base the driving light (See Figure 56).

Feed the two wires up through the center of the driving light housing and loosely thread the 14mm nut onto the bottom of the driving light housing. Pull the wiring loom up all the way through (See Figure 57 and Figure 58).

Now take one of the ring terminals supplied with the kit and crimp in on to the end of the brown wire along with some heat shrink tubing. On the back of the driving light bulb, you'll see the small Philips head screws that secures the bulb into the lens. This will act as the ground point for the wiring. Connect the brown wire to this point (See Figure 59).

Crimp one of the supplied female connectors to the red wire. It's a good idea to slide some heat shrink tubing onto the line as well to insulate the connection. Now take the white insulated wire coming from the bulb and connect it to the red wire (See Figure 60).

Now take the bulb assembly and pop it over the driving light base. You'll notice a small hole at the bottom of the bulb. This is used to secure the bulb at the bottom with a small Phillips head screw (See Figure 61). Inside the car, secure the relay socket to the wiring harness and plug in the relay supplied with the kit (See Figure 62). Now hook the battery back up and turn the headlights on. Pull the headlight stalk to activate the high beams and press the button you added to the driver's side bolster. The driving lights should now illuminate.

Now follow the directions supplied with the kit to adjust and aim the bulbs. Once correctly aimed, tighten the 14mm nut at the bottom of the light. Fit the black plastic covers to the lights when not in use.

Shown here are the components included in the auxiliary driving light kit for the MINI.
Figure 1

Shown here are the components included in the auxiliary driving light kit for the MINI. You should receive two lights and covers, the mounting brackets for the lights, wiring harness, wire ties and splices, an aux. light relay, the aux. light switch.

Begin by removing the driver's side bolster panel.
Figure 2

Begin by removing the driver's side bolster panel. Give it a good tug at the top and it should pop out. It is hinged at the bottom, so rotate it down and carefully remove the panel. The hinges on the panel are a bit tricky to maneuver off the frame, so use caution.

Remove the screws holding the console pillar to the driver's side.
Figure 3

Remove the screws holding the console pillar to the driver's side. In this picture, one of the screws was already missing.

Now, remove the mounting screws form the passenger side pillar.
Figure 4

Now, remove the mounting screws form the passenger side pillar.

Remove the plastic sleeves that fit around both the instrument light dimmer switch and also the hazard light switch.
Figure 5

Remove the plastic sleeves that fit around both the instrument light dimmer switch and also the hazard light switch. They pull straight off with a slight tug.

Shown here are the two upper mounting screws for the front instrument bezel.
Figure 6

Shown here are the two upper mounting screws for the front instrument bezel. (green arrows)

Remove the two upper bezel screws and set them aside.
Figure 7

Remove the two upper bezel screws and set them aside.

Open the glovebox and remove the mounting screws as shown here.
Figure 8

Open the glovebox and remove the mounting screws as shown here. (green arrows)

Once the screws are out, lower the glovebox down slightly to access the glovebox light assembly.
Figure 9

Once the screws are out, lower the glovebox down slightly to access the glovebox light assembly.

After you lower the glovebox down, disconnect the electrical harness going to the glovebox light by pulling it out of the light assembly.
Figure 10

After you lower the glovebox down, disconnect the electrical harness going to the glovebox light by pulling it out of the light assembly.

Next, remove the glovebox assembly and set it aside.
Figure 11

Next, remove the glovebox assembly and set it aside.

Take note of the small piece of plastic tubing that connects the A/C system to the valve on the glovebox (green arrow).
Figure 12

Take note of the small piece of plastic tubing that connects the A/C system to the valve on the glovebox (green arrow). It simply presses on to each end. It's easy to overlook this small piece when taking the glovebox out and re-installing it.

Remove the two lower screws attaching the bezel to the dashboard.
Figure 13

Remove the two lower screws attaching the bezel to the dashboard. (green arrow) This picture shows the passenger side. There is a screw in the same location on the driver's side.

Carefully remove the front bezel panel off the dashboard.
Figure 14

Carefully remove the front bezel panel off the dashboard. You may need to slightly pry it off.

Next, remove the air vent assembly underneath the bezel panel.
Figure 15

Next, remove the air vent assembly underneath the bezel panel. This will allow you to remove the two pillar covers on the center console.

Pull the pillar covers back towards you and lift them up and out.
Figure 16

Pull the pillar covers back towards you and lift them up and out. They are held in place by blocks of foam at the bottom. be careful not to damage the foam.

Remove the screws that hold the radio (green arrows) in the console.
Figure 17

Remove the screws that hold the radio (green arrows) in the console.

Now remove the radio from the console by pulling it straight out.
Figure 18

Now remove the radio from the console by pulling it straight out.

Pull down on the lever on the outside of the wiring harness connector going to the back of the radio (green arrow).
Figure 19

Pull down on the lever on the outside of the wiring harness connector going to the back of the radio (green arrow). This will release the connector from the radio.

Shown here is the rubber grommet that you will feed the the ground lugs, the 12V power lead and also the wires going to the lights.
Figure 20

Shown here is the rubber grommet that you will feed the ground lugs, the 12V power lead and also the wires going to the lights. Now unravel the wiring loom. On one end of it, you will find two ground lugs, two sets of red and brown wires and a single red wire. These will all have to pass through the firewall. If you follow the loom back, all of these wires will eventually merge into one insulated loom.

An easy way to start the loom is to push a wire through the grommet shown here and run it down to one of the ground lugs.
Figure 21

An easy way to start the loom is to push a wire through the grommet shown here and run it down to one of the ground lugs. Tie the wire to the ground lug and pull it back out of the grommet. Keep pulling until the looms for the lights (two sets of red and brown wires), two ground lugs and a single red wire for power emerge from the grommet. Once these have been pulled through the grommet far enough, they will merge into a single insulate run of cable.

Inside the car, you will see the following wires.
Figure 22

Inside the car, you will see the following wires. A yellow wire with green stripe (green arrow) a electrical connector with four wires going to it (yellow arrow), a loom containing a purple wire with a blue stripe and a grey wire with a red stripe (purple arrow) There is also a relay connector which is not shown in the photo. Take the loom with the two wires (purple arrow) and route it behind the dashboard so that it emerges through the opening for the radio (NOTE: In this picture, I have coiled up the wires to separate them).

Look at the wiring harness going to the radio and find the purple wire with blue stripe.
Figure 23

Look at the wiring harness going to the radio and find the purple wire with blue stripe. Take the supplied wire connector and route the new wiring loom so that the two wires sit in the connector as shown.

Now flip the cover of the connector closed and use a pair of pliers to squeeze it shut.
Figure 24

Now flip the cover of the connector closed and use a pair of pliers to squeeze it shut. The conducting blade inside the connector will pierce both wires and splice them together.

Now do the same for the grey wire with the red stripe.
Figure 25

Now do the same for the grey wire with the red stripe. Find the same colored wire off the radio wiring harness and use a connector to splice the wire to the new wire off the new harness. This is the instrument backlight power lead and will illuminate the control switch for the driving lights when you turn the headlights on.

Now move over to the passenger side of the car and pull the trim panel off the inside of the car near the hood release handle.
Figure 26

Now move over to the passenger side of the car and pull the trim panel off the inside of the car near the hood release handle. You'll need to pull the door seal off as well.

Next, pull up the carpeting and the foam liner underneath to expose the body control module or (BCM).
Figure 27

Next, pull up the carpeting and the foam liner underneath to expose the body control module or (BCM). This unit controls most of the electrical functions of the car. We will need to tap into one of the wires in order for the lights to work.

Now route the yellow/green wire behind the dashboard and over to the passenger side (green arrow).
Figure 28

Now route the yellow/green wire behind the dashboard and over to the passenger side (green arrow). Locate the harness connector that plugs into the bottom of the BCM (yellow arrow).

Use a pick or screw driver to pull the locking tab on the bottom of the harness connector towards you.
Figure 29

Use a pick or screw driver to pull the locking tab on the bottom of the harness connector towards you. As you pull the locking tab, it will separate itself from the BCM.

Like before at the radio harness plug, locate the larger yellow/green wire and use the larger connector to splice the new wire to it as shown here.
Figure 30

Like before at the radio harness plug, locate the larger yellow/green wire and use the larger connector to splice the new wire to it as shown here.

Flip the cover of the wire connector closed and use a pair of pliers to cinch it closed.
Figure 31

Flip the cover of the wire connector closed and use a pair of pliers to cinch it closed. At this point, you can pop the running board cover back on, reinstall the radio and speedometer trim parts, but leave the lower driver's bolster off.

Now move to the engine compartment and pull the rubber seal off the top of the firewall near the driver's side hood hinge as shown here.
Figure 32

Now move to the engine compartment and pull the rubber seal off the top of the firewall near the driver's side hood hinge as shown here. Pull the grommet out of the notch in the sheet metal as shown here. we will want to route the cable looms that go to the driving lights and the ground points through this grommet. Start with the longer red and brown cable loom and pull it all the way through.

Take a small screwdriver and pry the cable retainer out of the body.
Figure 33

Take a small screwdriver and pry the cable retainer out of the body. Cut the zip tie holding the cable to the retainer and throw it away.

Now follow the cable loom up the side of the hood hinge and pry all of the cable retainers out.
Figure 34

Now follow the cable loom up the side of the hood hinge and pry all of the cable retainers out.

Shown here is the stock cable loom removed from the hinge.
Figure 35

Shown here is the stock cable loom removed from the hinge. Cut the cable ties off the stock loom (green arrows).

Now place the new cable retainer ties in the holes where the old ties were originally (green arrows).
Figure 36

Now place the new cable retainer ties in the holes where the old ties were originally (green arrows).

Remove the 10mm ground nut shown here (green arrow).
Figure 37

Remove the 10mm ground nut shown here (green arrow).

Take the two ground lugs from the new loom, place them on the ground point and re-fit the 10mm nut.
Figure 38

Take the two ground lugs from the new loom, place them on the ground point and re-fit the 10mm nut.

Now feed the wires for the ground lugs back though the grommet on the body until they have just enough length to reach the ground point.
Figure 39

Now feed the wires for the ground lugs back though the grommet on the body until they have just enough length to reach the ground point. You may need to coil up the wires for the grounds and tie them up on the other side of the grommet.

Now place all of the wires inside of the first cable retaining tie as shown here and pull the zip tie snug.
Figure 40

Now place all of the wires inside of the first cable retaining tie as shown here and pull the zip tie snug. Cut off the excess with a pair of clippers.

Now align the new wiring loom along side the existing loom and pull all of the zip ties snug.
Figure 41

Now align the new wiring loom along side the existing loom and pull all of the zip ties snug. Keep in mind that you only want to secure the new loom using the two upper zip ties shown here (green arrows). Make sure that you allow enough slack in the new loom to allow the hood to open and close without pulling on the wiring. Cut off the excess plastic with a pair of clippers.

Route the loom for the driving lights up near the headlight and then under the hood insulation as shown here (green arrow).
Figure 42

Route the loom for the driving lights up near the headlight and then under the hood insulation as shown here (green arrow). Run the shorter length of wire to the driver's side of the grill, then work the other side up inside the hood to the passenger side.

Now take the single red wire from the loom and crimp the section of red wire with the fuse holder onto the end.
Figure 43

Now take the single red wire from the loom and crimp the section of red wire with the fuse holder onto the end. This fuse protects the harness against any short circuits.

Take the other end of the fused red wire and strip the insulation back about 7mm.
Figure 44

Take the other end of the fused red wire and strip the insulation back about 7mm. Slide a piece of shrink tubing over the wire and crimp a ring terminal to the end. Once in place, slide the heat shrink tubing over the connection. Use a heat gun or a blow dryer to shrink the tubing around the connection.

Now, remove the fuse box cover inside the engine compartment.
Figure 45

Now, remove the fuse box cover inside the engine compartment. Inside, you will see a 10mm bolt holding one of the power cables to the box near the rear (green arrow). This is where we will connect the power for the lights. Drill a hole in the panel to feed the red wire through (yellow arrow).

Remove the 10mm bolt and feed the wire through the hole you just drilled.
Figure 46

Remove the 10mm bolt and feed the wire through the hole you just drilled. Secure the ring terminal to the 10mm bolt and tighten it back down in place.

You'll need to cut a notch in the underside of the rear of the fuse box cover in order for the wire to clear one the cover goes back on.
Figure 47

You'll need to cut a notch in the underside of the rear of the fuse box cover in order for the wire to clear one the cover goes back on.

Now take the template supplied with the driving light kit and cut it out with a pair of scissors.
Figure 48

Now take the template supplied with the driving light kit and cut it out with a pair of scissors. Lay the template along the left edge of the driver's bolster panel and tape it in place. Use a permanent marker to trace the edges of the hole you'll need to cut for the light switch.

Use an Exacto knife or razor blade to cut out the hole for the light switch.
Figure 49

Use an Exacto knife or razor blade to cut out the hole for the light switch. Take your time and be careful. Also, be sure to cut the small index mark in the hole for the switch.

Re-fit the bolster panel up underneath the dashboard and press the switch into the hole you just cut.
Figure 50

Re-fit the bolster panel up underneath the dashboard and press the switch into the hole you just cut.

Fit the electrical connection from the harness into the switch on the backside of the bolster panel.
Figure 51

Fit the electrical connection from the harness into the switch on the backside of the bolster panel. Keep in mind that it can only go in one way.

Now move to under the hood and mock up the light brackets in place and use a permanent marker to mark the position of the holes.
Figure 52

Now move to under the hood and mock up the light brackets in place and use a permanent marker to mark the position of the holes. The idea is to have the mounting surfaces of the bracket sit flush against the hood. You'll also want to route the wiring for each light underneath the hood insulation up to the opening in the hood frame as shown here (green arrow). The longer harness loom goes to the passenger side while the shorter goes to the driver's side.

Once the holes are marked, use a center punch to center the hole locations and then drill the holes.
Figure 53

Once the holes are marked, use a center punch to center the hole locations and then drill the holes. Take care to use cutting fluid and low speed Also take care when you start to break through as the bit can fly up and damage the upper surface of the hood. In some cases, you may need to drill through the bottom edge of the grille for the mounting bolts or rivets to pass through.

Some cars shipped from the factory came with what MINI calls the aerodynamic package.
Figure 54

Some cars shipped from the factory came with what MINI calls the aerodynamic package. This uses a different type of grille that does not have the slats, but rather a mesh that impedes the bracket from passing through. If you have this grille, you'll have to remove the nuts surrounding the grille and pull the grille off. If you look at the backside of the grille, you'll see a section molded into the plastic that sits lower than the mesh on either side of the grille. These sections are where you are intended to cut the plastic to allow the brackets to pass through (green lines). Use a Dremel or a razor knife to cut through the plastic. If your car has the slatted style grille, the brackets should just pass underneath.

Once all the holes have been drilled, fit the brackets to the hood.
Figure 55

Once all the holes have been drilled, fit the brackets to the hood. The kit is supplied with a set of pop rivets designed to hold the bracket on, but I decided to use some small nuts and bolts instead. This makes it much easier if you decide to remove the brackets at some point. (NOTE: This picture shows the aerodynamic package grille fitted to the car).

Run the loom for the lights up underneath the bracket on each side and orient the fastening pieces as shown here, first the 14mm nut, then the lock washer, flat washer, up through the bracket, the plastic spacer and then the beveled base which seats the driving light.
Figure 56

Run the loom for the lights up underneath the bracket on each side and orient the fastening pieces as shown here, first the 14mm nut, then the lock washer, flat washer, up through the bracket, the plastic spacer and then the beveled base which seats the driving light. (NOTE: I've fitted a standard grille to the car in these pictures to show how the bracket passes through).

Feed the two wires up through the center of the threaded fastener of the driving light housing.
Figure 57

Feed the two wires up through the center of the threaded fastener of the driving light housing.

Now loosely thread the 14mm nut onto the bottom of the driving light base and pull the wiring loom up all the way through.
Figure 58

Now loosely thread the 14mm nut onto the bottom of the driving light base and pull the wiring loom up all the way through.

Now take one of the ring terminals supplied with the kit and crimp in on to the end of the brown wire along with some heat shrink tubing.
Figure 59

Now take one of the ring terminals supplied with the kit and crimp in on to the end of the brown wire along with some heat shrink tubing. On the back of the driving light bulb, you'll see a small Phillips head screw. mount the ring terminal to this point. This is the ground point for the bulb (green arrow).

Crimp one of the supplied female connectors to the red wire.
Figure 60

Crimp one of the supplied female connectors to the red wire. It's a good idea to slide some heat shrink tubing onto the line as well to insulate the connection (not shown). Now take the white insulated wire coming from the bulb and connect it to the red wire.

Now take the bulb assembly and pop it over the driving light base.
Figure 61

Now take the bulb assembly and pop it over the driving light base. You'll notice a small hole at the bottom of the bulb. This is used to secure the bulb at the bottom with a small Phillips head screw (green arrow). Snug up the 14mm nut enough at the bottom so that you can still turn the lamp by hand.

At this point, take the slack out of the harness behind the grille and zip tie it to the mounting brackets on each side (green arrows).
Figure 62

At this point, take the slack out of the harness behind the grille and zip tie it to the mounting brackets on each side (green arrows).

Inside the car, secure the relay socket to the wiring harness and plug in the relay supplied with the kit.
Figure 63

Inside the car, secure the relay socket to the wiring harness and plug in the relay supplied with the kit. Now hook the battery back up and turn the headlights on. Pull the headlight stalk to activate the high beams and press the button you added to the driver's side bolster. The driving lights should now illuminate.

Now follow the directions supplied with the kit to adjust and aim the bulbs.
Figure 64

Now follow the directions supplied with the kit to adjust and aim the bulbs. Once correctly aimed, tighten the 14mm nut at the bottom of the light.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Bandit911 Comments: can the lights be installed to allow turn on with the headlights off, We use the vehicle for off road events.
October 11, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am sure you can wire it that way. You will have to swap whatever wire comes from the headlights, and run it to a different switch or just the fog light switch. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Lyestille Comments: 2004 MC40

"grey wire with the red stripe. This is the instrument backlight power lead and will illuminate the control switch for the driving lights when you turn the headlights on".

ok so when i turn the head lights on this does happen, however when i turn the key on, the switch will no longer be illuminated? and does not seem to function at all?

I check all the grounds and leads they all look fine. Could this be a problem with the relay?
July 7, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Sounds like a voltage drop. if the other lights are staying on, check and confirm voltage as the switch is going away. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Joe Comments: I purchased a Mine R53 with four lights on the front with no: wiring harness, switches or hardware other than the two wires coming our of each light. The lights were installed but never wired into the car before I bought it. Does Pelican sell the wiring harness and light switch separate from the lights?
May 31, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, if it is still available. There is a fog / driving light upgrade when buying new, you'll need this kit.

Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
wrxnofx Comments: FYI to anyone who LOSES the grommet/body plug that you push the wires through the firewall into the cabin, I can tell you that the part number is 07147140849, 35mm body plug. To make it easier to push the wiring through the grommet I thought I'd push the grommet out. Well, it came out and disappeared under the master cylinder. I tried for hours to find/get this thing back and gave up and bought a new one. Took two tries to get it right, since the diagram from Real OEM doesn't exactly show the exact locations. Anyway, hope this helps someone else.
May 20, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
longbowjake Comments: Do you know if the any of the Hella light covers will fit on these factory lights? I have them installed but never got covers for them.
February 28, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I am not 100% sure. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Red Riding Hood Comments: We just acquired a 2004 Cooper S MC40 JCW. It has the driving lights installed but they weren't working. When I tested the lines, I was getting constant 12v in all modes. Key on, Key off, lights on/off, always constant 12v. any ideas?
January 24, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Does it have ground as well? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Irish Comments: Someone stole my lights, I bought a hella 500 12v 55w and connected to the same wires. And they don't turn on. the switch still turn green when I press it. I run direct power after the fuse to the lights and they turn on. Did someone know what can be happening I already check all the wires.

Thanks for your help
February 7, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: If the fuse missing power when the lights are turned ON? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
cheekal Comments: Hi
I have a mini cooper 2007 UK version with these lights fitted
They were working when I got the car a few weeks ago but now they are not
Have checked for a switch to see if they are turned off but can't find one any ideas
November 25, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check both sides of the dash and the knee bolster for a switch. There has to be one. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Al Comments: need 2 replacement bulbs for this on my 2002 MCS....where can I find them?
August 4, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right bulbs.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Octavio_mdk Comments: Hi, i just want to replace the bulbs yellow ligtht for white light halogen bulbs, is it possible??
June 15, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The fog light bulbs? I am not sure. If you exceed the watt rating, you can damage the housing and wiring. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
cbryant82 Comments: In figure 30, is that the connections that allows the driving lights to run ONLY when the high beams are on?
June 4, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: That is the connection made for activating the lights. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
cmorris Comments: http://www.outmotoring.com/images/how_to/MINI_Cooper_Driving_Lights_902.pdf
November 1, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional Info. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
SDubya Comments: I feel really dumb right now. One of the bulbs burned out on my driving light. I've removed the screw from figure 60 but can't se to
Figure out how to get the assembly apart to get to the bulb. What am I missing here?
September 25, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: There is a metal spring clip, shown here on the right side of the photo. Unhook the spring clip to remove the bulb. - Nick at Pelican Parts
jkbennett Comments: I bought your book for e30s and use it all the time. I really appreciate the time you take for detailed explanations. I was hoping that you could tell me which mounting bracket you are using. i have a set of Hella FF200 lights but, need to get the bracket. Thanks!
July 6, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Liam Comments: I found one other installation guide besides this one; it's a PDF; looks kind of official. It references a few seemingly non-essential parts e.g. brackets that were not in the kit I purchased; those same parts would seem to be missing from the kit used for this guide. I referenced both guides for the install, although this one was a lot more useful.

There may be one step missing from this guide. At the bottom of the PDF I mentioned, there's a section for "vehicles with sports package", with instructions for four-fin and three-fin grills. There are two blind rivet nuts in the kit. I don't fully understand the instructions hence why I used this guide instead but my hunch is that the blind rivet nuts support the lights from behind, acting as a horizontal pillar between the face of the grill and the back of the light housing. This would prevent the lights from being pushed back by winds at high speed, which should reduce stress on the mounting brackets.

Am I on the right track with this?
May 29, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Any chance you could share the PDF in this forum post? I would like to see the the instructions. I can better answer your question once I see them. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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