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Brake Pad Replacement
 
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Pelican Technical Article:

Brake Pad Replacement

Time:

2 hours2 hrs

Tab:

$85

Talent:

**

Tools:

Screwdriver, isopropyl alcohol, wooden block, large C-clamp, 7mm hex socket

Applicable Models:

R50 MINI Cooper Hatchback (2002-06)
R52 MINI Cooper Convertible (2005-08)
R52 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2005-08)
R53 MINI Cooper S Hatchback (2002-06)
R55 MINI Cooper Clubman Wagon (2008-14)
R55 MINI Cooper JCW Clubman Wagon (2009-14)
R55 MINI Cooper S Clubman Wagon (2008-14)
R56 MINI Cooper Hatchback (2007-13)
R56 MINI Cooper JCW Hatchback (2009-13)
R56 MINI Cooper S Hatchback (2007-13)
R57 MINI Cooper Convertible (2009-15)
R57 MINI Cooper JCW Convertible (2009-15)
R57 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2009-15)

Parts Required:

Brake pads

Hot Tip:

Check your brake discs when replacing your pads in case they have worn too thin

Performance Gain:

Better braking

Complementary Modification:

Caliper rebuild, brake disc replacement, install stainless steel brake lines
How to Maintain and Modify your new MINI

This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Pelican Parts' new book, How to Maintain and Modify your new MINI The book contains 240 pages of full color projects detailing everything from performance mods to changing your brake pads. With more than 500+ full-color glossy photos accompanying extensive step-by-step procedures, this book is required reading in any MINI owner's collection. The book is due to be released in late 2015. See The Official Book Website for more details.

Replacing your brake pads is one of the easiest jobs to perform on your MINI. In general, you should inspect your brake pads about every 10,000 miles, and replace them if the material lining of the pad is worn down enough to trigger the pad replacement sensor. In reality, most people don't inspect their pads very often, and usually wait until they See the little brake-warning lamp appear on the dashboard. It's a wise idea to replace the pads, and inspect your discs as soon as you See that warning lamp go on.

If you ignore the warning lamp, you may indeed get to the point of metal on metal contact, where the metal backing of the pads may be contacting the brake discs. Using the brakes during this condition will not only give you inadequate braking, but will also begin to wear grooves in your brake discs. Once the discs are grooved, they are damaged, and there is often no way to repair them. Resurfacing will sometimes work, but often the groove cut will be deeper than is allowed by MINI specifications. The smart thing to do is to replace your pads right away.

The procedure for replacing pads on all the wheels is basically the same. There are slight configuration differences between front and rear brakes, but in general the procedure for replacement is similar. The first step is to jack up the car and remove the road wheel. This will expose the brake caliper that presses the pads against the disc. Make sure that the parking brake is off when you start to work on the pads.

If you look inside the caliper, you will See the brake pads - usually they will look very thin. To replace the brake pads on the MINI, you need to remove the caliper. Begin by using a screwdriver to pry out the small plastic caps that cover each caliper guide bolt (See Figure 1). Next, remove both of the 7mm guide bolts from the caliper (See Figure 2 and Figure 3). Then remove the brake pad retaining clip which keeps the pads from rattling using a screwdriver (See Figure 4). Make sure you wear safety glasses during this step, as the clip can come flying off if you're not careful. Then, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the brake pad sensor (driver's side only) (See Figure 5).

After the guide bolts have been removed, you should be able to simply lift the caliper off of its mount (See Figure 6). If not, you can very carefully pry the caliper off using a screwdriver. Take your time and pry both sides of the caliper equally. At this point, you can remove the outer brake pad from the caliper, and use a screwdriver to pry the inner pad out of the caliper piston. (See Figure 7) Suspend the caliper using some zip-ties or rope until you are ready to work with it again. Don't let the caliper hang from its rubber hose (this can damage the brake line) (See Figure 8)

Once you have the pads removed, inspect the inside of the caliper. You should clean this area with some compressed air and isopropyl alcohol. Make sure that the dust boots and the clamping rings inside the caliper are not ripped or damaged. If they are, then the caliper may need to be rebuilt.

At this point, you should inspect the brake discs carefully. Using a micrometer, take a measurement of the disc thickness. If the disc is worn beyond its specifications, then it's time to replace it along with the one on the other side (See Pelican Technical Article: Battery Replacement and Battery Tender Installation). In our case, we decided to replace the brake discs at the same time as the pads.

The installation of the new brake pads is quite easy. You will need to take a C-clamp and push the caliper piston back into the caliper. This is because the new pads are going to be quite a bit thicker than the old worn-out ones, and the piston is set in the old pad's position. Push back the piston using the clamp, being careful not to use too much force. Using a screwdriver here can accidentally damage the dust boot and seals inside the caliper, and is not recommended. (See Figure 9)

Be aware that as you push back the pistons in the calipers, you will cause the level of the brake reservoir to rise (See Pelican Technical Article: Adjustable Rear Control Arm Installation for more info). Make sure that you don't have too much fluid in your reservoir. If the level is high, you may have to siphon out a bit from the reservoir to prevent it from overflowing. Also make sure that you have the cap securely fastened to the top of reservoir. Failure to do this may result in brake fluid accidentally spilling onto your paint.

When the piston is pushed all the way back, you should then be able to insert the new pads into the caliper. If you encounter resistance, double check to make sure that the inside of the caliper is clean. Simply snap the inner brake pad into place using your hand. (See Figure 10) Set the other brake pad onto the caliper mounting frame. (See Figure 11)

Most cars use a separate set of brake shoes on the inside of the rotor to act as the parking brake. On the MINI, it uses the brake pads themselves to clamp down on the rotor to lock the wheel. Due to the construction of this setup, the piston needs to be rotated rather then pressed back into the caliper. For this operation, you will need a brake piston retraction tool as shown here. This tool usually comes in a kit with various attachments that fit into the small pins on the front surface of the piston. The backing plate of the tool firmly locks it in place while you turn it clockwise. This both turns and pushes the piston at the same time.  Also, make sure you take the parking brake off, otherwise, the piston will not move at all (See Figure 9).

Mount the caliper back onto its mounting bracket, surrounding the brake disc. If the caliper won't fit, then you need to push in the piston a bit more until the space in-between both pads is wide enough for the brake disc to fit. Tighten down the guide bolts using a torque wrench to between 18-22 ft-lbs. (25-30 Nm), and reinstall the brake pad sensor into the gap in the pad, using a new one if the old sensor was activated. If you need to replace the sensor, you'll also need to remove the inner fender liner to access the connection point. The brake wear sensor attaches to the wire for the ABS sensor with rubber clips molded into the line as well as a grommet that fits over the brake bleeder valve. (See Figure 12 and Figure 13)

The calipers on the R55/R56/R57 cars are held to the car with a different setup then the R50/R52/R53 cars. You will need a 13mm and a 15mm wrench to remove the caliper. Hold the inboard 15mm nut while you loosen and remove the 13mm bolt on the outside of the caliper. Once both bolts are removed, pull the caliper up and off of the caliper retaining frame.

At the top and bottom of each pad, you'll See a small piece of sheet metal pressed onto the caliper retaining frame. These are anti-rattle springs and they serve a dual function, preventing brake noise and also securing the brake pads to the caliper retaining frame. Once the caliper has been removed, pry the old pads out of the frame and pull each anti-rattle spring off the frame. You should get a set of new springs with the new brake pads. Press the springs into place at the top and bottom and then fit the new pads onto the frame.

You also may want to spray the back of the brake pads with some anti-squeal glue. This glue basically keeps the pads and the piston glued together, and prevents noisy vibration. Anti-squeal pads can also be purchased as sheets that are peeled off and placed on the rear of the pads.

When finished with both sides, press on the brake pedal repeatedly to make sure that the pads and the pistons seat properly. Also make sure that you top off the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir if necessary. Brake pads typically take between 100 and 200 miles to completely break in. It's typical for braking performance to suffer slightly as the pads begin their wear-in period. Make sure that you avoid any heavy braking or emergency maneuvers during this period.

Those of you with the R55/R56R57 cars will also need to reset the Condition Based Service (CBS) lights on the car if the brake pad warning light has been triggered. The light is triggered when the pads wear down enough to break the connection on the pad sensors. Once you replace the pad sensors, you'll need to reset the lights.

Get in the car and do not press the brake or clutch pedal. Now insert the key and press the start button to turn the car on, but do not start the car. Look at the tachometer and wait until the oil change service light goes out. Now press and hold both buttons on the tachometer.

The car will perform a dash light check. Keep holding the buttons. The car will then show the VIN/menu on the tachometer. Continue to hold the buttons until the time appears on the tachometer. Now release only the right hand button for approx. 1 second and press it again while still holding the left hand button. After another second or two, the display will show the front brake symbol. You are now in the service menu.

Use the BC button (on the turn signal stalk) to scroll through the various service symbols until you get to both the front and rear brake symbols. To reset the service light, press and hold the BC button until RESET appears. Now press and hold the button again until it resets.

This photo shows the upper protective cap being pried out of the cover for the caliper guide bolt (green arrow).
Figure 1

This photo shows the upper protective cap being pried out of the cover for the caliper guide bolt (green arrow). There are two caps, one for the upper and lower bolts.

With the caps removed, you can loosen the caliper guide bolts using a 7mm hex key socket (green arrows).
Figure 2

With the caps removed, you can loosen the caliper guide bolts using a 7mm hex key socket (green arrows). You don't need to remove the bolts completely from the tubes, but just enough to free the caliper from the mounting frame.

ThisPicture shows the upper caliper guide bolt being removed.
Figure 3

This picture shows the upper caliper guide bolt being removed.

Using a screwdriver, pry out the retaining spring on the front of the caliper.
Figure 4

Using a screwdriver, pry out the retaining spring on the front of the caliper. It's a good idea to use safety goggles as this spring is under tension.

Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the brake wear sensor from the driver's side caliper.
Figure 5

Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the brake wear sensor from the driver's side caliper. Replace the sensor if it has triggered the light on the dash.

With the caliper guide bolts and retaining spring removed, you should be able to lift the caliper off its frame.
Figure 6

With the caliper guide bolts and retaining spring removed, you should be able to lift the caliper off its frame. If it's stuck on there, you can use a screwdriver to carefully pry the caliper up and off.

With the caliper removed, simply pry the out brake pad out of the piston inside the caliper.
Figure 7

With the caliper removed, simply pry the out brake pad out of the piston inside the caliper. Once removed, check the dust seals around the piston for cracks or damage. Also clean the inside of the caliper with isopropyl alcohol and compressed air.

It's a good idea to support the caliper up and out of the way with zip ties or rope when you are not working with it.
Figure 8

It's a good idea to support the caliper up and out of the way with zip ties or rope when you are not working with it. Never support it just with the brake line: this can damage the line.

For the rear calipers on the MINI, retracting the pistons back into the caliper is a little different then the normal method.
Figure 9

For the rear calipers on the MINI, retracting the pistons back into the caliper is a little different then the normal method. Most cars use a separate set of brake shoes on the inside of the rotor to act as the parking brake. On the MINI, it uses the brake pads themselves to clamp down on the rotor to lock the wheel. Due to the construction of this setup, the piston needs to be rotated at the same time it is pressed back into the caliper. BMW specifies the use of a special tool to do this, however, most auto parts stores sell a brake caliper retraction tool that fits into the holes on the brake piston as shown here.

ThisPicture shows how the rear brake pads fit onto the piston.
Figure 10

This picture shows how the rear brake pads fit onto the piston. As you can See, there is a small groove running around the diameter. The new brake pad has a set of retaining wires that fit into the groove on the outside of the piston. Carefully fit the brake pad into place and push it on.

Before you can install the new brake pads on the front, you will need to push the piston back into the caliper.
Figure 11

Before you can install the new brake pads on the front, you will need to push the piston back into the caliper. In this case, a large C-clamp works well. Make sure to seat the face of the clamp on the inside of the piston and also on the rear of the caliper to avoid damage. You can also use a piston retractor tool as shown in picture 9.

With the pistons fully retracted back into the calipers, simply push the new front brake pad into the piston until it seats firmly in place.
Figure 12

With the pistons fully retracted back into the calipers, simply push the new front brake pad into the piston until it seats firmly in place.

Once you have pressed the inboard brake pad on the caliper piston, place the outboard brake pad onto the caliper retaining frame.
Figure 13

Once you have pressed the inboard brake pad on the caliper piston, place the outboard brake pad onto the caliper retaining frame. You should be able to then fit the caliper over the pad and rotor. Line up the caliper guide bolts and torque them to the factory spec.

ThisPicture shows the new brake pads installed in the caliper and on the new rotor.
Figure 14

This picture shows the new brake pads installed in the caliper and on the new rotor. Be sure to re-attach the caliper retaining clip once you are done.

On the R55/R56/R57 cars, the caliper is secured to the car with a different setup than on the earlier cars.
Figure 15

On the R55/R56/R57 cars, the caliper is secured to the car with a different setup than on the earlier cars. In this picture, you can See one of the two caliper retaining nuts being removed. Hold the inboard 15mm nut (yellow arrow) while you loosen and remove the 13mm bolt on the outside of the caliper (green arrow). Once both bolts are removed, pull the caliper up and off of the caliper retaining frame.

Once the caliper has been removed, pry the old pads (green arrows) out of the frame and pull each anti-rattle spring (yellow arrows) off the frame.
Figure 16

Once the caliper has been removed, pry the old pads (green arrows) out of the frame and pull each anti-rattle spring (yellow arrows) off the frame.

17:.
Figure 17

17:.Place the new anti-rattle springs at the top and bottom of each caliper frame (green arrows), then place the top and bottom mounting ears of each new brake pad in the grooves of the springs (yellow arrows). Now place the caliper back over the pads and frame.

Shown here is the front brake symbol in the CBS system after being reset.
Figure 18

Shown here is the front brake symbol in the CBS system after being reset.

Shown here is the rear brake symbol in the CBS system after being reset.
Figure 19

Shown here is the rear brake symbol in the CBS system after being reset.

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Comments and Suggestions:
Alan Comments: Couldn't get my hands on the proper tool for the rear calipers, so I used needle nosed pliers, inserted into the holes in the caliper. Start by giving it a quick twist counter-clockwise, to run the caliper out, and then it will twist right back in clockwise, with minimal effort. Can spin it with your fingers. Only took me 3 hours of struggling to figure THAT one out.
June 30, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
GT914 Comments: On a 2006 Mini R53 rear caliper, does the hand brake cable need to be disconnected to remove the caliper?
June 25, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: if replacing, you will have to detach the cable from the caliper. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Rod Comments: On the Mini Cooper R50 2002 the rear brake piston has a sprin wrapped around it which is not visible but acts to hold the brake pads with minimum clearance. To retract these pistons takes more tha a clamp can deliver as the need to be rotated at the same time. The best tool to do this I found is a battery driven impact driver. This tool rotates and hammers at the same time. I made up an adapter with two pins that mate up with the holes in the top of the piston using an old 3/8 drive 7/8 socket cut back flat and the drilled with two holes. Pins should protrude about 1/4". You can buy this tool ready made but not where I live.
June 15, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: yes, the caliper retracting tool makes quick work of this task. Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
JAWS Comments: Thank-you for the great instructions with pix's. You might want to have a long 7mm hex socket driver available for the front right caliber. On my '05 MINI Cooper S the brake line interferes with the standard length 7mm hex socket driver. I have damaged that guide pin socket because the standard length does not completely seat in the socket, whereas the longer length goes past the brake line connection and seats correctly.
April 23, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for sharing your installation process and experience. These type of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
annetterailey Comments: my husband replaced the rear brakes on 2008 sidewalk cooper s
now the emergency brakes do not work why
April 14, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The caliper maybe damaged or the cable was left off. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
njjjjh Comments: How many brake pad sensors are on my 2007 Mini hatchback?
Ordered and received pads but forgot about sensors duh!
April 13, 2016
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: two sensors. One front, one rear. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Jesse Comments: Would you be able to provide me with a list of tools needed to do rear brake pads and rotors on a 2003 r53 S please. I am new to this and never done brakes before but would love to give it a shot on my own vehicle amd save the labor money also. Cheers.
December 6, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, Pelican parts has the tools. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Frustrated Comments: Replacing rear brakes and rotors no problem. Went to replace the sensor. Found the sensor too short. Wont fit from brake to connector Store says its the correct one. I have a 2009 the sensor length is 44 incnes long end of connector to sensor.
September 2, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: I don't have anything to check the length against.
I’m not the best with part numbers.

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Salvaje Comments: My parking brake lever is to high after I remove old brake pads,how can I do to put it back to normal position, my is a Mini Cooper s 2004.
Thanks for your answer.
August 9, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The parking brake is self-adjusting. There may be a problem with the cable or one of the rear brake calipers. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
logan Comments: hi ineed back and front dics pads for mini cooper JCW
May 18, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
RIB Comments: I recently changed the brake pads and rotors, f & r, on my '06 R50. I have just noticed that at times, not all the time, that I have a slight squeal coming from the passenger side rear, I think when I take a right handed bend in the road. Does not happen when braking normally, or making a right handed turn. Does not happen on left handed bends.
May 16, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Check if the backing plate is making contact with the rotor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
go go Comments: hi , do I need to replace the ABS sensor on my mini cooper S 2005 while changing front brakes ? Thanks
April 27, 2015
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, you have to replace the brake pad wear sensor. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Jose Comments: Quick question, do I need to replace the brake pad wear sensors if I am changing all rotors and pads?
September 12, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, if they are worn or break during the procedure. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
KEv Comments: Hi Nick,
I replaced the rear brakes and sensor thanks for the help, and rest to 37000 miles, but the tach red "BRAKE" indicator light still comes on. I've tried all procedures. No luck. I double checked the sensor and wires. They look good. I heard the "click" when I reattached the sensor wire at the connnector underneath the back seat, so I think that is connected properly. Any ideas? Thanks
August 23, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Did you check if the switch contacts at the parking brake lever are closing and opening properly? It is a simple switch and at times goes out of adjustment. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Spagtio Comments: Yes nick, the pedal is stiff with the engine running.
August 3, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Confirm the brake booster is getting sufficient vacuum. If so, the calipers may be jammed from the pads. Double check the part numbers you installed. If too big, they may prevent the piston from moving. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
spagtio Comments: I replaced the pads and rotors on the front of my 2006 mini cooper. I compressed the front calipers with the old pad and a c clamp. master cylinder cap was off. With everything back together - the brake pedal is very stiff and it almost feels like most of my braking is occuriing at the rear of the car. any suggestions?
August 1, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is it stiff when the engine is running?

- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Jerry Comments: This helped a lot with my r56 brake job. I would just add that the sensor doesn't slide in from the outside it snaps in from the face of the brake pad. Once I figured that out it was super easy to pull it off without breaking it.
June 30, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
rain Comments: When compressing the piston on the callipers, I had unscrewed the cap on the brake fluid reservoir to make it easier to compress the pistons. Now that all brakes are assembled, my brake peddle is very mushy and spongy like. What do I need to do? I had pumped the brakes until it was firm before I recapped the reservoir.
June 16, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will have to bleed your brakes. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
bencarp Comments: i replaced the front pads on a 2007 mini cooper hatch back, and now there is no clutch pedal. any ideas???
May 25, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the brake fluid empty? Other than that I don't see the relation. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
joey r56 Comments: i have replaced the rear pads and wear sensor nice job! just cant seem to reset the warning light, have tried holding the buttons on the rev counter numerous times it does the dash light check, but never shows the vin number so i can carry on with the reset? r56 cooper s feb 07 build help would be much appreciated
May 10, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You may have another sensor that is faulty. If not, you need a MINI scan tool to push the process. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
irk Comments: 2007 MINI Cooper not S. Changed rear brake pads, reset rear brake service on dash, now reads 37000 miles. However, the brake light on the dash that was red, now is still stays on but it is yellow.............any ideas?
April 27, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is it the same light that turns red with the parking brake engaged? This may be a fault in the ABS system. Was the light previously on?
I would start by checking the vehicle for fault codes. If multiple systems are not working properly, fault codes will be set. This will be your best bet when diagnosing.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
hus Comments: Hi, sorry am a newbie here, i've already ordered pads and rotor twice and can't seem to get the correct size. seems that every model, every year, the sizes differ. how would you be able to check the correct size? thanks in advance!
April 21, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Measure the brake rotor size and thickness. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right part.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
Carla Comments: STUCK!
My dad is having issues pushing the cylinder back, is this normal? What is the best way to do it?
March 18, 2014
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: See Step9:

For the rear calipers on the MINI, retracting the pistons back into the caliper is a little different then the normal method. Most cars use a separate set of brake shoes on the inside of the rotor to act as the parking brake. On the MINI, it uses the brake pads themselves to clamp down on the rotor to lock the wheel. Due to the construction of this setup, the piston needs to be rotated at the same time it is pressed back into the caliper. BMW specifies the use of a special tool to do this, however, most auto parts stores sell a brake caliper retraction tool that fits into the holes on the brake piston as shown here. - Nick at Pelican Parts
 
MG Comments: This article and the photos made this the easiest brake job I've ever done. Doing brakes on any car you've never worked on before can be a hassle and this took away ALL of that. THANK YOU!!!!!!
December 21, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
natstalgia Comments: I just changed the pads and sensors on my R52 following these instructions. Thank you very much. My pad sensor light was still on and needed to be reset. I did this by turning the ignition switch to position 2 and waiting about 30 seconds. The computer reset and the warning light came off. Something about this would be good to add to your write up.
November 26, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the feedback and additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts
 
mike Comments: I've had zero success retracting my rear right piston on a Mini Cooper S. Just pressing on the piston does not seem to be sufficient. I've seen other forums discuss the requirement to rotate the piston as well as compress it. If that is indeed a necessary step, it would be a good thing to add to the instructions.
November 20, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: You do have to rotate the piston with a special tool. I will have this step added to the tech article. Thanks for the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Thomp1892 Comments: Ive had my front sensor and pads replaced but my brake pad light remains on, is there anyway of getting this off?
November 16, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: It's possible the sensor is still faulty or there is a bad connection. Did you try leaving the key On for a few minutes without starting the vehicle? - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Neilmini Comments: I have a 62 plate mini, should I use copper slip on the back. Ps this was really helpful. Many thanks.
October 30, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: This would depend on your preference. I tend to use a small amount of grease on some contact points of brake components. But not on the backs of the brake pads. However a lot of people do like to use it. Not a very helpful answer, but it really is up to preference.- Nick at Pelican Parts  
JSK Comments: Is there any special trick to removing the brake wear sensors so that the light doesn't trigger on the dash?
October 11, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Just be very careful, however most of the time when removed the sensors break. I always replace then when replacing brake pads to be sure I don't have to go back in. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Vic Comments: The link to the battery tender article is interesting but this link to the brake disc replacement article is more relevant to this page:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/32-BRAKES-Brake_Disc_Replacement/32-BRAKES-Brake_Disc_Replacement.htm
September 17, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for noticing that, we'll adjust the link. We appreciate the help. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
Vic Comments: The R56 parts page shows pads for 8/09 and earlier and 9/09 and later. My car is a 2009 but how do I tell if it's before or after Sep?
September 17, 2013
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: The production date will be listed on a sticker in the door jamb. - Nick at Pelican Parts  
thstone Comments: How do I re-attach the little metal wires that are part of the rear pads to the caliper piston?
December 9, 2012
  Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not sure what model you are referring to. Did the wires break off? If you are referring to an R56 model, the wires cannot be reattached. - Nick at Pelican Parts  

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